The Who What Wear Podcast

Episode: The State of Style in 2025: Off-Kilter Colors, Loud Luxury, and Preppy Bourgeois

Host: Kat Collings (Editor in Chief, Who What Wear)
Guest: Anna Laplaca (Senior Fashion Editor)
Date: December 10, 2025

Episode Overview

In this annual “State of Style” episode, Kat Collings and Anna Laplaca deconstruct the most impactful fashion trends of 2025 and peek ahead to what will dominate 2026. The conversation weaves through macro trends, notable shifts from quiet to loud luxury, the rise of off-kilter color combinations, 1980s influences, and a resurgence of preppy style. They highlight standout designers, discuss the evolving role of women in fashion leadership, and offer actionable advice for listeners looking to sharpen their style perspective and get ahead of the next big thing.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The State of Style: Purpose and Approach

• State of Style is Anna Laplaca’s annual broad look at the year’s dominant fashion trends. It examines not just “what” is trending, but crucially, the “why”—placing style shifts in the context of cultural and global forces.
  • “Fashion does not exist in a vacuum. So it’s really important to discuss that there are so many forces really behind a lot of what’s in style right now.” – Anna (02:52)
  • She references the Hemline Index—the theory linking skirt lengths and economic cycles—as an example of fashion as a barometer of societal mood. (05:08)

From Quiet Luxury to Loud Luxury

• Quiet Luxury—minimalist, understated, logo-less fashion as a discreet signal of wealth—is waning.

  • “At its peak, it was all about emulating the vibe of that one [Kendall Jenner] outfit… It launched this entire movement.” – Anna (07:43)
  • Notable icons: Kendall Jenner's viral street style (2021) and Sofia Richie Grainge.
  • The slicked-back bun and clean-girl minimalism may soon look dated (10:21).

• Loud Luxury is the new direction. More expressive, dramatic, and personal, but not simply flashy logomania.

  • Bottega Veneta: Bringing bold textures and statement pieces, such as feathered collars and recycled fiberglass fringes (11:20).

  • The Row: Even this bastion of quiet luxury is introducing volume, feathers, and sequins—signaling the changing tides (12:25).

  • “I think loud luxury is really just all about turning up the volume... You’re sort of also showing the craftsmanship at the forefront.” – Anna (11:20, 13:04)

  • Investment Picks:

    • Dries Van Noten: Opulent prints, intricate beading, “approachable maximalism”—highlighted for accessible price points (14:06).
    • Libero (London): Velvet, tweed, and especially knitted fringe this season (15:29).
    • Le Sundial: Tassel-pendant necklaces for a maximalist flair even with simple outfits (16:12).

  • “Investing in accessories is always a good cost per wear… adds flair with texture.” – Kat & Anna (16:34)

Maximalism & The Power of Color

• Explosion of color blocking and unexpected pairings for Spring 2026.

  • Vivid combos like red & pink (Balenciaga: cherry red feathered skirt with ballet pink leather tee).
  • “It’s all about these off-kilter combinations. We saw this all over… color blocking and putting things together that feel a bit unexpected, so they felt very fresh.” – Anna (17:32)
  • Suggestion: Use “neutral-but-not colors” (burgundy, navy) with brights for ease and approachability (19:09).

• 1980s Revival

  • Strong shoulders, cigarette trousers, and acid tones reemerge.
  • Chloé is the standout, with over-the-top 80s references (21:02).
  • Modernize by mixing with casual or athletic pieces rather than going full 80s (21:38).
  • “I feel like usually we have one decade that is the reigning influence… and it’s almost unanimously the 80s now.” – Anna (20:23)

Preppy “Bourgeois” and Vintage Sportswear

• Preppy Fashion explodes beyond heritage brands.
  • Celine’s new creative director, Michael Ryder: Incorporates silk scarves, derby shoes, and modern details.
  • Prada: Surprising use of bright preppy color—signal of broad uptake (23:57).
  • “Celine is absolutely the number one at the forefront… with a preppy bourgeois spin.” – Anna (22:17)
  • Shift to vintage-inspired sportswear, and away from basic “activewear sets.” (24:35)
  • Instagram recommend: @rummagestretch for vintage athletic inspiration.

The Era of Creative Director Debuts (“The Great Fashion Reset”)

• 2025-26 sees major creative director shuffles, infusing brands with freshness:
  • Chanel’s new direction draws universal industry acclaim (25:31).
  • Jonathan Anderson at Dior: A “funkier, weirder” Dior (26:32).
  • Pierpaolo at Balenciaga and Mugler also called out as season highlights.
  • Rachel Scott (Diotima → Proenza Schouler): Anticipation for how her handcrafted, artisan touch will merge with Proenza’s tailoring (27:00).
  • “How lucky are we… it feels like such a unique moment in fashion history… The Great Fashion Reset.” – Anna (27:00)

Femininity & Representation at the Top

• Growing—if still limited—number of female creative directors shaping heritage houses:

  • Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta: Brings subtle “female gaze” to the ultra-influential brand (28:49).

  • Sarah Burton at Givenchy: Emphasizes “powerful femininity” through softness, not just masculine tailoring (30:31).

  • Grace Wales Bonner at Hermès menswear: Celebrated appointment.

  • Miuccia Prada: Continues to set the tone for subversive feminine style (cone bras stir conversation online).

  • “Representation is so powerful.” – Anna (30:41)

Application: Personal Style & Holiday Dressing

• Trends Anna’s Applying: (30:44)

  • Fringe: “I’m fringe curious”; the Libero fringe-trimmed jacket.
  • Pony Hair: Seen as an understated entry to maximalism (Norhamor pony-hair coat).
  • Tassel Accessories: Tassel pendant necklace from Le Sundial for party looks.

• Kat’s Picks: Pearly pink satin car coat from Donni (32:17).

  • “A tassel necklace is like cool girl version of holiday accessorizing.” – Kat (31:40)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “Fashion… is so much more than the clothes that we wear. I always like to mention that infamous Miranda Priestley monologue in The Devil Wears Prada about cerulean… it's this carefully selected item that has gone through so much industry vetting…” – Anna (03:23)
• “It seems like minimalism is not the goal to strive for. We need joy, we need drama.” – Anna & Kat (09:19-09:22)
• “Color blocking and putting things together that feel a bit unexpected… these combos almost make it more accessible.” – Anna (18:24)
• “I’m excited about this fusion of a European POV on prep style.” – Anna (24:07)
• “How lucky are we? It feels like such a unique moment in fashion history… the Great Fashion Reset.” – Anna (27:00)
• “Representation is so powerful.” – Anna (30:41)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 02:38 – What is the State of Style report and why it matters
• 05:10 – Hemline Index: how fashion reflects economics
• 07:10 – 10:21 – The cycle of quiet luxury & its cultural legacy
• 11:04 – Loud luxury: designers, examples, implications
• 14:06 – Where to invest: Dries Van Noten, Libero, Le Sundial
• 17:22 – 19:09 – The explosion of color: off-kilter combos & tips
• 20:05 – 80s revival: It’s here and how to wear it
• 22:17 – The new preppy: Celine, Prada, and vintage sportswear
• 25:14 – 27:00 – Creative director debuts & the “Great Fashion Reset”
• 28:26 – 30:41 – Femininity and increasing female leadership in fashion
• 30:44 – How these trends influence personal & holiday style

Takeaways for Listeners

• Minimalism has had its moment—expect more vibrancy, personality, and visible craftsmanship in the coming year.
• Embrace unexpected color pairings, and look to brands shaking up tradition through material, embellishment, and silhouette.
• Major creative incoming at the most legendary fashion houses signals a generational reset in taste and direction.
• Female creative directors are gaining ground, bringing new perspectives on power and femininity to legacy brands.
• For holiday dressing, experiment with maximalist touches (fringe, texture, statement accessories) even within classic silhouettes.

Next Steps for Listeners:
Want to be “ahead of the curve for 2026”?

• Expand your color palette and mix & match.
• Scout out brands like Dries Van Noten, Libero, Le Sundial, and up-and-coming vintage sportswear curators.
• Watch for the new directions at Chanel, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta, and Proenza Schouler.

(For a deep dive on any of the topics, rewind to relevant segments using the timestamps!)
Catch Anna Laplaca’s full State of Style report at Who What Wear, and stay tuned for next year’s trend metamorphosis.