The Who What Wear Podcast Summary Episode: "The White Lotus Costume Designer Alex Bovaird on Season 3’s Designer-Loving Blondes, the Catalog-Worthy Ratliffs, and Chelsea’s DIY Expat Style" Release Date: March 26, 2025

Introduction

In this episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Bobby Schussler engages in an insightful conversation with Alex Bovaird, the esteemed costume designer behind HBO's critically acclaimed series, The White Lotus. Alex delves into her creative process, influences, and the intricate details that bring each character's wardrobe to life across the show's evolving settings from Hawaii to Italy and now Thailand.

Alex Bovaird's Journey into Costume Design

Bobby Schussler begins by exploring Alex's entry into the world of costume design.

Bobby [02:24]: "Can you tell us a little bit about how you initially got into this line of work and then how you got connected to the White Lotus specifically?"

Alex Bovaird shares her humble beginnings:

Alex [02:39]: "I started working in the costume department on a film in 2008... I was sort of hooked on the hard work."

"It is." (03:25)

Collaboration with Mike White and Onset of The White Lotus

Transitioning to her involvement with The White Lotus, Alex recounts her collaboration with creator Mike White.

Alex [03:33]: "I had previously worked with Mike White on a film called Brad's Status... during lockdown, we dove right in."

The COVID-19 pandemic posed unique challenges, with Alex highlighting the rapid adjustments required to commence production in Hawaii under strict protocols.

Costume Design Process for Season Three

Initial Research and Mood Boards

With each new season, Alex's approach becomes more refined. For Season Three, set in Thailand, she emphasizes a balance between realism and a nostalgic flair inspired by the 60s and 70s resort editorials.

Alex [04:54]: "We try to ground it in reality, but we also have created a little bit of our own world... inspired by 60s and 70s resort editorials."

Extensive research, including social media trends and hotel aesthetics, forms the foundation of her design strategy.

Character-Specific Design

Alex meticulously crafts individual wardrobes that reflect each character's personality and narrative arc, utilizing mood boards tailored to each persona.

Signature Scenes: The Boat Ride Arrival

The boat ride arrival scene is pivotal, serving as the audience's first visual introduction to the characters' identities.

Alex [06:36]: "Each costume signifies who that character is... the arrival scene became the poster for season one."

This tradition continues, with each season's arrival scene encapsulating the essence of the new characters.

Costume Details for the Ratliff Family

Parker's Elegant Comfort

Focusing on the Ratliff family, Alex highlights Parker's wardrobe as a blend of comfort and elegance.

Alex [08:34]: "Parker has these big flouncy caftans... very comfy, looks very elegant for dinner."

Her eyewear is a bespoke piece from General Eyewear, ensuring each accessory aligns seamlessly with her character.

Alex [10:00]: "A bespoke custom pair of frames that she wears a lot." (10:00)

Accessories and Brand Collaborations

Alex collaborates with prop masters to select specific watches and bags, ensuring each accessory enhances the character's persona.

Alex [10:16]: "It's about securing the loans, convincing people that they can lend us all this product... feeling what's right for the character."

Piper's Ethereal Wardrobe and Character Arc

Piper's sartorial choices mirror her spiritual journey, blending innocence with ethereal elegance.

Alex [11:04]: "She really has a demure vibe... sticks to this sort of fairy doll mode."

Inspired by Brooke Shields, Piper's long, tea-length dresses emphasize her gentle nature amidst a more boisterous family dynamic.

The Trio of Blondes: Cohesive yet Unique Styles

The trio of blondes is designed to appear interchangeable upon arrival, yet each possesses distinct individual styles that unfold as the narrative progresses.

Alex [12:13]: "Laurie's from New York, so she carries a Loewe bag... Jacqueline is an actress, she's very glamorous... Kate is from Texas, so she's just a little bit more conservative."

Each character's accessories, from Loewe to Balenciaga and Cartier, underscore their unique backgrounds and personal tastes.

Chelsea's DIY Expat Style

Chelsea, portrayed by Amy Luwood, embodies a bohemian and eclectic style, reflecting her expatriate lifestyle.

Alex [13:30]: "She's a boho girl. She loves the 60s and crochet... we did a lot of DIY on her because it seemed to suit her character."

Her wardrobe features hand-altered dresses and pieces sourced from Asian markets, enhancing her free-spirited persona.

Chloe's Custom Jacquemus Look

Chloe's standout ensemble, including a custom Jacquemus dress, showcases Alex's commitment to unique and fashion-forward designs.

Alex [15:15]: "Jacques Mousse made lots of different amazing ideas... but we did two of them to keep it realistic."

Her collaboration with Jacquemus faced challenges due to casting changes but ultimately resulted in iconic looks that resonate with viewers.

The Importance of Bags in Characterization

Bags serve as a significant character trait and status symbol across the series.

Alex [16:55]: "Bags are a really good signifier of somebody's character and wealth."

From Loewe to Balenciaga, each bag is carefully selected or borrowed to authenticate the character's lifestyle and social standing.

Designing Hotel Staff Uniforms Inspired by Thai Culture

Season Three's setting in Thailand introduced the challenge of designing authentic hotel staff uniforms that honor local culture.

Alex [19:17]: "We had to make all our uniforms from scratch... lots of polyester in there to keep it starched."

Collaborating with Tombolo, Alex ensured the uniforms reflected both western and Thai aesthetics, incorporating whimsical elements that complement the resort's vibe.

Favorite Characters and Notable Costumes

When asked about her favorite characters to dress, Alex expresses a particular fondness for Rick and Chelsea.

Alex [20:54]: "Rick and Chelsea are pretty iconic for me and just like a pleasure to work with personally as well."

Additionally, she highlights Fabian's Indo-Western looks, which blend traditional elements with modern flair.

Upcoming Costume Highlights in Final Episodes

Looking ahead, Alex teases significant costume moments in the final episodes, including Chloe's vintage Versace dress and Chelsea's Moschino ensemble.

Alex [21:39]: "There's one more party scene in episode seven where Chloe dons her vintage Versace... she's in a little Moschino vintage number."

These pieces promise to be visual highlights that encapsulate the series' luxurious and eclectic style.

Conclusion

Bobby Schussler wraps up the conversation by commending Alex Bovaird's exceptional work, underscoring her pivotal role in shaping the visual narrative of The White Lotus.

Bobby [22:26]: "A huge thank you to costume designer Alex Bovaird. Make sure to subscribe to our show wherever you listen to podcasts..."

Listeners are encouraged to stay tuned for future episodes and to appreciate the intricate artistry behind the fashion that defines the beloved series.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

• "I started working in the costume department on a film in 2008... I was sort of hooked on the hard work." — Alex Bovaird [02:39]

• "Parker has these big flouncy caftans... very comfy, looks very elegant for dinner." — Alex Bovaird [08:34]

• "She really has a demure vibe... sticks to this sort of fairy doll mode." — Alex Bovaird [11:04]

• "Each costume signifies who that character is... the arrival scene became the poster for season one." — Alex Bovaird [06:36]

• "Bags are a really good signifier of somebody's character and wealth." — Alex Bovaird [16:55]

This comprehensive summary captures the essence of Alex Bovaird's contributions to The White Lotus, offering listeners an in-depth look into the meticulous craftsmanship and creative vision that define the show's distinctive style.