The Who What Wear Podcast: Tracing the Rise of Bob Dylan Through Clothing in "A Complete Unknown" with Costume Designer Ariane Phillips

Episode Overview

In this engaging episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, host Aaron Fitzpatrick delves deep into the intricate world of costume design with Ariane Phillips, the acclaimed costume designer behind the upcoming film A Complete Unknown. This biopic stars Timothée Chalamet as the legendary musician Bob Dylan and explores Dylan's transformative years from 19 to 24, a pivotal period marked by his rise to fame and evolving personal style. Ariane shares her extensive research process, collaboration with Timothée, and the meticulous recreation of Dylan's iconic looks, offering listeners an intimate look into the fusion of fashion and character development in film.

Introduction to Ariane Phillips and the Film

Ariane Phillips, a Hollywood veteran and award-winning costume designer, is renowned for her work on films such as Walk the Line, Don't Worry Darling, and Once Upon a Time in Hollywood. Her collaboration with director Jim Mangold on A Complete Unknown marks their sixth project together. Ariane discusses her personal connection to Bob Dylan's music and excitement about portraying his early years.

“Bob Dylan being pretty much a soundtrack of my childhood and my adulthood of my life basically.”
— Ariane Phillips (02:48)

Costume Evolution Reflecting Bob Dylan's Growth

Ariane emphasizes how costumes serve as a visual narrative tool, tracing Dylan's transformation over four critical years. She highlights the evolution of his denim style, which becomes skinnier as his fame grows, symbolizing his journey from a working-class youth to a rock icon.

“Denim took on this kind of youth culture movement, especially in the 60s, that has influenced the way we dress today.”
— Ariane Phillips (04:04)

Key Points:

• Research and Authenticity: Four years of meticulous research allowed Ariane to authentically represent Dylan's style from 1961 to 1965.
• Collaboration with Levi's: Partnering with Levi's, Ariane ensured the accurate recreation of Dylan's skinny jeans, including the elusive Levi's Super Slims.
• Silhouette and Color: Focused on how Dylan's silhouette and color choices in clothing mirrored his personal and artistic growth.

Historical Accuracy vs. Creative Liberty in Costume Design

The discussion shifts to balancing historical accuracy with creative interpretation. Ariane recounts how director Jim Mangold encouraged a unique visual language, allowing her to stay true to Dylan's essence while also crafting a distinct aesthetic for the film.

“Jim was very encouraging that it's important to not pay attention to other Westerns or even the original film, but to be, I think, fluent in terms of what people wore at that time.”
— Ariane Phillips (10:28)

Highlights:

• Authentic Sourcing: Utilized public records, photographs, and biographies to inform costume choices.
• Innovative Design: Created bespoke pieces where vintage items were scarce, such as digitally printed fabrics for specific outfits.
• Collaborative Process: Worked closely with the production designer and cinematographer to ensure a cohesive visual storytelling approach.

Working with Timothée Chalamet: Building Trust and Collaboration

Ariane shares her experience working with Timothée Chalamet, highlighting his dedication and collaborative spirit. The intensive fitting process was essential to achieving the desired transformations, with Timothée embracing multiple costume changes to reflect Dylan's evolving persona.

“He was really, really up for everything. And patient. It takes a lot of patience to do fittings.”
— Ariane Phillips (14:36)

Insights:

• Physical Transformation: Extensive fittings to alter Timothée's silhouette from a 19-year-old to a more refined artist by 24.
• Comfort and Functionality: Ensured that costumes allowed Timothée the freedom to perform music seamlessly.
• Emotional Connection: Created garments that helped Timothée embody Dylan's emotional and artistic journey.

Symbolism of Bob Dylan's Sunglasses

A significant focus is placed on Dylan's sunglasses, iconic in both the film and his real-life persona. Ariane explains their dual role as a fashion statement and a means for Dylan to maintain privacy amidst rising fame.

“The sunglasses also provide a veneer and a separation from the bright lights and the fandom that he was largely uncomfortable with.”
— Ariane Phillips (17:16)

Details:

• Style and Function: Chose Bosch and Loam sunglasses, an early iteration of Ray-Ban, to match Dylan's authentic looks.
• Cultural Impact: Reflects the broader rock and roll archetype of the 60s, aligning Dylan with contemporaries like The Beatles and The Rolling Stones.
• Practicality: Helped Dylan navigate public attention discreetly, a key aspect of his personal style.

Recreating Iconic Outfits: The Newport Folk Festival

Ariane discusses the challenge of recreating specific outfits, such as Dylan's leather jacket from the Newport Folk Festival 1965. Although the original brand is unknown, the design process focused on authenticity and symbolism, representing Dylan's shift towards rock and roll.

“We actually had pictures of the real thing that were photographed on their own... but we knew it was a black leather blazer, three patch pockets.”
— Ariane Phillips (29:13)

Highlights:

• Craftsmanship: Replicated the handmade quality of Dylan's original jackets, incorporating details like bone buttons.
• Modern Collaboration: Partnered with Levi's to launch a limited edition capsule collection inspired by Dylan's authentic pieces.
• Enduring Legacy: Emphasized how the leather blazer remains a staple in Dylan's style across decades.

Joan Baez's Style and Its Influence

Ariane touches upon Joan Baez's distinctive style in the film, noting her barefoot appearance and mod-inspired clothing. Her research unearthed unique pieces, such as a Mary Quant coat, highlighting Baez's international influence and alignment with contemporary fashion movements.

“When you look at how Bob's style was fast evolving post London and Jones style kind of sets them apart from all their friends in everyone stateside.”
— Ariane Phillips (21:17)

Key Points:

• Research-Driven Design: Sourced authentic vintage pieces and collaborated with museum curators to ensure accuracy.
• Cultural Representation: Showcased Baez's involvement in the civil rights movement through her clothing choices.
• Fashion Evolution: Demonstrated how Baez's style mirrored the broader changes in 60s fashion, reinforcing her role as an influential figure.

Final Reflections and Legacy

Ariane reflects on the enduring impact of Dylan's and Baez's styles, emphasizing the importance of authentic storytelling through costume design. She highlights the collaborative nature of filmmaking and the privilege of bringing such iconic figures to life on screen.

“That relationship between the two of them artistically and in terms of Bob's Persona, I'm very happy that we're able to touch on that in our movie.”
— Ariane Phillips (27:26)

Conclusion

This episode offers a fascinating glimpse into the meticulous artistry behind costume design in biographical films. Ariane Phillips' dedication to authenticity and her ability to infuse character development with sartorial choices provide listeners with a deeper appreciation for the interplay between fashion and storytelling in cinema. Her insights into Bob Dylan's and Joan Baez's iconic styles underscore the enduring legacy of 1960s fashion in shaping contemporary cultural narratives.

Notable Quotes:

• “Denim took on this kind of youth culture movement, especially in the 60s, that has influenced the way we dress today.”
  — Ariane Phillips (04:04)

• “Jim was very encouraging that it's important to not pay attention to other Westerns or even the original film, but to be, I think, fluent in terms of what people wore at that time.”
  — Ariane Phillips (10:28)

• “He was really, really up for everything. And patient. It takes a lot of patience to do fittings.”
  — Ariane Phillips (14:36)

• “The sunglasses also provide a veneer and a separation from the bright lights and the fandom that he was largely uncomfortable with.”
  — Ariane Phillips (17:16)

• “We actually had pictures of the real thing that were photographed on their own... but we knew it was a black leather blazer, three patch pockets.”
  — Ariane Phillips (29:13)

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