The Who What Wear Podcast: Episode Summary
Title: Wicked Costume Designer Paul Tazewell Talks Glinda’s Bubble Dress, Elphaba’s Style Evolution, and the Visual Language of Oz
Host: Who What Wear
Guest: Paul Tazewell, Emmy and Tony Award-Winning Costume Designer
Release Date: November 27, 2024
Introduction to Paul Tazewell and His Role in Wicked
Timestamp: 02:30 - 04:18
The episode features an insightful conversation between Jessica Baker, the Entertainment Director at Who What Wear, and Paul Tazewell, renowned for his award-winning costume designs in Broadway hits like "Hamilton" and "In the Heights." Paul discusses how he was approached to design the costumes for the new "Wicked" film. He shares his excitement and the collaborative process that began with a presentation reflective of his vision for "Wicked." Paul emphasizes the importance of existing relationships within the industry, mentioning his connections with John (the director) and Lin Manuel Miranda, which facilitated his involvement in the project.
“I think my notoriety that occurred with 'Hamilton' and my friendship with Lin, and, you know, there's just this web of interconnections. And they asked me if I would be interested in designing. I also am close friends with the original Broadway designer. So it was imperative not to step on her toes as I was reimagining what that world was.”
— Paul Tazewell [03:10]
Balancing Homage and Innovation in Costume Design
Timestamp: 04:43 - 06:00
Paul delves into his methodology for honoring the extensive intellectual property (IP) and lore surrounding "Wicked." He meticulously researched L. Frank Baum’s original "Wizard of Oz" book, the 1930s film adaptation starring Judy Garland, and the Broadway musical. Paul explains his approach to blending traditional elements with his unique vision, ensuring the costumes resonate both with longtime fans and new audiences.
“I just wanted to make sure that we were always delighted by the different icons that we were creating.”
— Paul Tazewell [04:43]
Designing Glinda’s Iconic Bubble Dress
Timestamp: 06:00 - 07:40
One of the standout discussions revolves around Glinda’s bubble dress, a visually stunning piece characterized by spiraled layering, pink tulle, and intricate hand-beading. Paul describes the intense design and construction process, likening it to engineering masterpieces by Charles James or Christian Dior. The collaboration with the tailor was crucial to achieve the dress’s buoyant, ethereal appearance.
“It was imperative to make that dress float, that we get this sense that it's lighter than air.”
— Paul Tazewell [06:20]
Paul also shares that three versions of the dress were created to ensure continuity during filming, accounting for potential wear and tear.
Ariana’s Glinda: Personalizing the Costume
Timestamp: 07:40 - 10:13
Paul discusses how Ariana, who portrays Glinda, influenced the costume design. He highlights the collaborative process, ensuring the dress complements Ariana’s performance and personal style. The color palette, primarily pink, was maintained to evoke the character's vanity and charm while integrating elements like butterflies and iridescence to enhance the magical feel.
“It's imperative to have the input of the actor. I required Ariana in the fitting to be present and to give her input on how she feels in the dress, because then once it arrives and she's on set, she needs to embody that character for that moment and not be worried about what she looks like.”
— Paul Tazewell [08:02]
Crafting Elphaba’s Style Evolution
Timestamp: 13:57 - 21:36
The conversation shifts focus to Elphaba’s (the Wicked Witch) costume design. Paul explains his intent to maintain minimal use of green in her clothing to emphasize her green skin, reserving color for symbolic and narrative purposes. He outlines Elphaba’s style trajectory, from Victorian-inspired silhouettes representing mourning and isolation to more agile, modern outfits reflecting her empowerment and alignment with nature.
“There’s nothing that is accidental with Elphaba's style. She's very specifically well put together also for Cynthia. She had very strong ideas about how she wanted to see Elphaba.”
— Paul Tazewell [15:35]
Paul elaborates on the transformation scenes, highlighting elements like the iconic witch’s hat and the evolution of her attire from corseted garments to practical, tailored pieces that signify her growth and changing role.
Designing SHIS University Uniforms
Timestamp: 21:36 - 24:16
Paul discusses the creation of SHIS University’s school uniforms, emphasizing originality to avoid similarities with other popular franchises like "Harry Potter." The chosen color palette of teal and coral embodies the school’s identity while allowing for personalized expressions within a standardized framework. Variations in collar styles, glasses, and shoulder shapes were introduced to reflect each character’s individuality and the school’s dynamic environment.
“I wanted to make it more inherent to the shapes that I was creating for the students.”
— Paul Tazewell [21:36]
Creating Iconic Accessories: The Wicked Slippers
Timestamp: 24:16 - 25:13
The discussion moves to the design of the iconic silver and crystal slippers, drawing inspiration from fairy tale footwear like Cinderella’s glass slipper. Paul aimed to create a magical and memorable accessory that serves as a significant plot device within the film.
“It gives it preciousness when that gift is given to Nessarose by the governor. And hopefully it'll resonate as an icon as well.”
— Paul Tazewell [24:16]
Attention to Detail: Hidden Costuming Elements
Timestamp: 25:13 - 26:45
Paul highlights the intricate details embedded throughout the costumes, such as origami patterns on the wizard’s ascot and medallions featuring the "Oz" emblem. These subtle elements enrich the visual storytelling, rewarding attentive viewers with layers of meaning and craftsmanship.
“The world of Wicked provides such an expansive canvas to be able to create this magical world, and it was a huge delight together.”
— Paul Tazewell [25:31]
Conclusion and Final Thoughts
Timestamp: 26:45 - 27:09
Jessica Baker expresses her admiration for the meticulous work and encourages listeners to watch the film again to catch the nuanced costume details. Paul extends his gratitude and excitement for the film’s release, leaving fans eager for the continuation of the story.
Key Takeaways:
- Collaboration is Crucial: Paul emphasizes the importance of working closely with directors and actors to ensure that costumes not only reflect the story but also enhance the actor’s performance.
- Balancing Tradition and Innovation: Respecting the original material while infusing fresh, creative elements is essential in reimagining classic characters.
- Attention to Detail: Subtle costume elements can significantly enhance the storytelling experience, providing depth and richness to the visual narrative.
- Symbolism Through Design: Color palettes, silhouettes, and accessories are thoughtfully chosen to symbolize character development and thematic elements within the plot.
Paul Tazewell’s approach to costume design for "Wicked" showcases his dedication to storytelling through fashion, blending historical references with modern aesthetics to create a visually captivating and emotionally resonant film.
Notable Quotes:
“It was imperative to make that dress float, that we get this sense that it's lighter than air.”
— Paul Tazewell [06:20]
“It's imperative to have the input of the actor. I required Ariana in the fitting to be present and to give her input on how she feels in the dress...”
— Paul Tazewell [08:02]
“There’s nothing that is accidental with Elphaba's style. She's very specifically well put together also for Cynthia.”
— Paul Tazewell [15:35]
“It gives it preciousness when that gift is given to Nessarose by the governor. And hopefully it'll resonate as an icon as well.”
— Paul Tazewell [24:16]
This comprehensive summary captures the essence of the podcast episode, highlighting Paul Tazewell’s creative process, his collaboration with the "Wicked" team, and the intricate details that bring the characters to life through costume design.