The Wirecutter Show: How to Ace Thanksgiving

Introduction

In the November 13, 2024 episode of The Wirecutter Show, hosted by Christine Cyr Clisset, Kyra Blackwell, and Rosie Guerin, the team dives into the art of hosting a flawless Thanksgiving. As Thanksgiving approaches, the hosts share personal anecdotes about hosting experiences and set the stage for insightful discussions with expert guests Sam Sifton, the founding editor of New York Times Cooking, and Leslie Stockton, a seasoned Wirecutter kitchen writer.

Personal Hosting Experiences

Rosie Guerin opens up about her first year hosting Thanksgiving, transitioning from childhood traditions at her uncle Pepe's house to creating new ones with her family. Kyra Blackwell contrasts this by describing her experience of assisting her parents in hosting large gatherings, accommodating 15 to 20 people annually in Washington D.C. Christine Cyr Clisset shares her habit of attending Friendsgiving events instead of hosting, highlighting the diverse ways people celebrate the holiday.

Guest Spotlight: Sam Sifton

At [06:03], Sam Sifton joins the conversation, bringing a wealth of experience from his role at New York Times Cooking. He recounts memorable Thanksgivings, including the poignant 2020 lockdown celebration with his immediate family, emphasizing the joy of a spacious spread for fewer guests. Reflecting on teaching his children Thanksgiving traditions, Sam shares his firm stance on certain aspects of the meal:

• No Salads at Thanksgiving: At [08:21], Sam humorously declares, “There’s no place for salad at a Thanksgiving meal. What are you doing?” He believes salads detract from the traditional focus on turkey and hearty sides.
• Turkey as the Star: Emphasizing the importance of turkey, Sam states, “There’s going to be a turkey. No chicken, no ham for you. It’s got to be turkey” ([09:13]). He advocates for turkey as the symbolic centerpiece of the meal, reserving other proteins like ham for different occasions.

Preparation Strategies

Sam outlines a strategic approach to Thanksgiving prep:

• Early Planning: At [09:47], he advises starting preparations weeks in advance, securing non-perishable items early and procuring turkeys the weekend before.
• Dual Turkey Strategy: To accommodate unexpected guests, Sam recommends purchasing two turkeys. Additionally, he suggests roasting turkey thighs ahead of time to create a versatile, slow-cooked "turkey a la king" mixture, ready to supplement the main dish if needed ([10:33]).
• Simplifying Recipes: Encouraging simplicity, Sam advises first-time cooks to avoid complex recipes on Thanksgiving Day. Instead, he recommends rehearsing key dishes like mashed potatoes beforehand to ensure confidence and reduce stress ([20:04]).

Essential Kitchen Gear with Leslie Stockton

Following Sam’s insights, Leslie Stockton joins the discussion at [29:24] to demystify the necessary kitchen tools for a successful Thanksgiving:

• Must-Haves:
  • Roasting Pan: Essential for evenly cooking the turkey. Leslie recommends both store-bought aluminum pans and high-quality reusable options ([31:29]).
  • Sharp Knife: A reliable chef’s knife suffices for carving, eliminating the need for specialized electric carving tools ([32:21]).
  • Meat Thermometer: Emphasizing safety and perfect doneness, Leslie advocates for an instant-read thermometer to ensure the turkey reaches an internal temperature of 165°F ([33:26]).
• Helpful Tips:
  • Transferring the Turkey: Leslie shares a practical method for moving a roasted turkey from the pan to the cutting board using tongs and a large spatula, ensuring juices are preserved for gravy ([37:13]).
  • Avoiding Spatchcocking: Despite its benefits for even cooking, Leslie advises against spatchcocking due to the difficulty of the process with turkeys compared to chickens ([35:16]).

Avoiding Unnecessary Tools

Leslie also discusses tools that are often deemed essential but are actually unnecessary:

• Turkey Baster: She dismisses the need for a baster, explaining that it can hinder achieving crispy skin by re-wetting it ([36:39]).
• Electric Carving Knives: A simple, sharp knife is more than sufficient for carving the turkey, making electric options redundant ([36:39]).

Enhancing the Experience

Sam shares unique traditions to enhance the Thanksgiving experience:

• Pre-Meal Socializing: At [12:50], he describes serving oysters and Prosecco before the main meal. This provides guests with a light, enjoyable activity that keeps them occupied and enhances their anticipation for the feast.
• Continued Gravy Warmth: Keeping turkey stock simmering on the stove throughout the day not only adds a delightful aroma but also serves a practical purpose by moistening the turkey before serving ([17:29]).

Cleanup Etiquette

Addressing the inevitable post-meal cleanup, Sam emphasizes the importance of cleaning as you go to maintain an organized kitchen and reduce end-of-event stress ([24:12]). He advises hosts to stay flexible, stepping up to clean when necessary while understanding that guests may prefer to handle different tasks.

Favorite Side Dish

When asked about his favorite side dish, Sam highlights a sentimental recipe from his father: bacon, Brussels sprouts, and heavy cream. This dish not only embodies the flavors of Thanksgiving but also serves as a heartfelt connection to his late father and his family’s culinary traditions ([26:06]).

Final Takeaways

As the episode concludes, the hosts reflect on the valuable tips shared by Sam and Leslie:

• Start Early: Begin shopping and prepping well in advance to alleviate last-minute stress ([40:49]).
• Keep It Simple: Focus on tried-and-true recipes rather than experimenting with new dishes on the day ([41:02]).
• Essential Tools: Invest in key kitchen tools like a roasting pan, sharp knife, and meat thermometer while avoiding unnecessary gadgets ([39:56]).

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with a heartfelt message encouraging listeners to embrace simplicity and enjoy the festive spirit of Thanksgiving. The hosts thank their guests, Sam Sifton and Leslie Stockton, for their invaluable insights and wish everyone a joyful holiday season.

Notable Quotes

• Sam Sifton on Avoiding Salads ([08:21]): “There’s no place for salad at a Thanksgiving meal. What are you doing?”
• Sam Sifton on Planning Ahead ([09:47]): “You want to be able to stage things. You don’t want to have to shop on Wednesday night for everything.”
• Leslie Stockton on Necessary Tools ([32:23]): “I cut up my entire turkey with Wirecutter’s pick, the Mac MTH80.”
• Sam Sifton on Cleaning as You Go ([24:33]): “I think it’s always a good idea to have turkey stock on the stove all day long. It makes the house smell nice.”

Final Thoughts

This episode of The Wirecutter Show serves as an essential guide for anyone looking to host a stress-free and memorable Thanksgiving. With expert advice on preparation, equipment, and traditions, listeners are well-equipped to create their own family traditions and enjoy the holiday to the fullest.