The Wirecutter Show – Episode: "Let's Go To Butter School"

Release Date: November 20, 2024

Hosts:

• Christine Cyr Clisette
• Kyra Blackwell
• Rosie Guerin

Guest:

• Leslie Stockton – Senior Kitchen Writer at Wirecutter, experienced baker, and culinary expert with over 20 years in professional kitchens and food media.

1. Introduction and Hosts' Butter Preferences

The episode kicks off with the hosts engaging in a playful debate about their butter preferences. Christine Cyr Clisette expresses her love for butter, while co-host Kyra Blackwell reveals she doesn't consume butter due to dietary restrictions, sparking a lively conversation about their differing tastes.

Notable Quote:

• Christine: "I love butter." (02:47)

2. Welcoming Leslie Stockton

Leslie Stockton is introduced as a seasoned expert in kitchen gear and baking. With a rich background, including working at Martha Stewart Living and Everyday Food magazines, Leslie brings extensive knowledge to the discussion on butter.

Notable Quote:

• Christine: "Leslie is a phenomenal baker. I love, love her pies." (06:21)

3. Understanding Butter Quality

Grass-Fed vs. Grain-Fed Cows

Leslie delves into the fundamental differences between butter derived from grass-fed versus grain-fed cows. She explains that grass-fed cows produce butter with higher beta carotene levels, resulting in a richer yellow color and superior taste.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "Cows that graze at pasture grass has beta carotene, which is what gives butter that butter yellow color." (08:29)

European vs. Domestic Butter

The conversation shifts to the distinction between European and domestic butters. European butters, such as Kerrygold and Isigny Sainte-Mère, are highlighted for their superior quality, attributed to traditional farming practices and cultured fermentation processes.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "Grass fed cows make delicious milk. Period, case closed." (12:12)

Cultured Butter

Leslie introduces the concept of cultured butter, prevalent in Europe, which undergoes a fermentation process that enhances its flavor complexity with subtle zing and nutty notes.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "Cultured butter gives it this little zing little treble note at the end in the finish." (12:32)

4. Taste Testing: Key Findings

Methodology

The hosts conducted a comprehensive taste test of 17 different butters, assessing them in two main categories: salted for eating and unsalted for baking. Butter was evaluated at both cold and room temperatures on various breads to determine spreadability and flavor profiles.

Testing Process Highlights:

• Spreadability: Assessing how butter spreads on sourdough and potato bread.
• Mouthfeel: Evaluating the texture and aftertaste, whether greasy or smooth.
• Flavor Complexity: Noting natural flavors versus added "natural flavorings" in lower-quality butters.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "When it was room temp, it did leave an oily mouthfeel. When things like that happen, it's just like mind blown." (18:53)

5. Butter in Cooking and Baking

Pie Crusts

Leslie emphasizes the importance of using high-quality butter in pie crusts to achieve a rich, cohesive flavor that complements tart fillings like apples and cinnamon.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "It adds more complexity to the finished product. You're not just getting the tartness of the apple and the cinnamon." (28:32)

Cookies

While high-quality butter isn't always necessary for basic cookies, Leslie notes that premium butters can enhance flavor complexity in more intricate recipes.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "If you wanna make a toll house cookie, I'm not gonna be too picky about it. But for more complex cookies, a better butter makes a difference." (30:04)

Pasta

Testing butter's performance with noodles, Leslie explains how quality butter emulsifies with starches, avoiding greasy residues and enhancing overall flavor.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "The heat from the noodles...does it emulsify well or separate and give you like this grease slick?" (19:24)

6. Storing Butter Properly

Proper storage is crucial to maintain butter's quality. Leslie advises using airtight containers to prevent absorption of fridge odors and recommends using a butter bell for countertop storage to keep butter fresh without exposure to air.

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "Butter is fat. Fat absorbs smells...keep your butter in an airtight container." (32:32)

7. Pairing Butter with Recipes: Rapid Fire

In a rapid-fire segment, Leslie provides quick recommendations on which butters to use for various recipes:

• Fruit Pie: Kerrygold
• Brown Butter Noodles: Kirkland Unsalted
• Bulk Christmas Cookies: Kirkland Unsalted
• Buttercream Frosting: Vegan Butter
• Best Overall for Eating: Cultured European Butter

Notable Quote:

• Leslie: "Cultured and Kerrygold offers more complexity and richness, respectively." (35:05)

8. Final Thoughts and Takeaways

High-Quality Ingredients Matter

The episode reinforces that investing in high-quality butter significantly enhances both flavor and texture in culinary applications. European and grass-fed butters stand out for their superior qualities.

Notable Quote:

• Christine: "European butter isn't just fancy, it is actually better." (37:04)

Limitations of Vegan Butters

Despite advancements, vegan butters still fall short in replicating the rich, complex flavors and textures of traditional dairy butters, especially in baking.

Notable Quote:

• Kyra: "Vegan butters just are not going to live up to the real thing." (37:04)

9. Closing Remarks

The hosts conclude the episode with reflections on their butter journey, expressing newfound appreciation for high-quality butters and sharing humor about their playful debates. Leslie Stockton's expertise leaves the listeners with actionable insights on selecting, using, and storing butter effectively.

Notable Quote:

• Christine: "I personally feel ruined. Like, I can't go back to cheap butter after tasting that butter." (36:43)

Conclusion

"Let's Go To Butter School" offers an in-depth exploration of butter, guiding listeners through the nuances of butter quality, selection, and application in cooking and baking. With expert insights from Leslie Stockton and engaging discussions among the hosts, the episode serves as a comprehensive resource for anyone looking to elevate their culinary experiences with superior butter choices.

For more detailed reviews and product recommendations, visit nytimes.com or check the show notes for direct links.