The Wirecutter Show: "Secrets to Better Pie Making"

Air date: November 19, 2025
Hosts: Christine Cyr Clisset, Caira Blackwell, Rosie Guerin
Guest: Leslie Stockton, Senior Kitchen Gear Writer at Wirecutter

Episode Overview

In this Thanksgiving-themed episode, the Wirecutter Show dives into the art and science of pie-making. Hosts Christine, Caira, and Rosie are joined by Leslie Stockton, a pie-baking pro and senior kitchen gear writer, for a practical, honest, and encouraging conversation about overcoming pie anxiety, key techniques, the best tools, and answers to common pie problems. Whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned baker, this episode is packed with secrets and gear recommendations to help you achieve delicious, flaky, drama-free pies for the holidays.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Leslie’s Pie-Baking Journey

• Early Beginnings: Leslie learned the craft early—baking pies with her grandmother as a child, spending summers perfecting her skills.

  “I started baking pies with my grandmother when I was a kid...” (04:54, Leslie)

• Professional Experience: Later, Leslie honed her skills in professional settings, attended culinary school (specializing in savory foods), and worked at Martha Stewart developing Thanksgiving recipes.
• Favorite Pie to Make: Double crust stone fruit pies (peach, cherry, or plum).

  “My favorite pie to make, period, is a double crust stone fruit pie. Peach, cherry, plum.” (06:18, Leslie)

Overcoming Pie Intimidation

• Permission to Buy Crust: There’s no shame in using store-bought crust.

  “First of all, there’s no shame in buying a crust or...dough for the crust.” (07:09, Leslie)

• Core Tenets:
  • Cold ingredients
  • Work fast to avoid melting butter
  • Don’t overwork the dough

  “Those core tenets are cold ingredients. Everything has to stay cold. You don't want to overwork your dough...and don't let your hands melt that butter.” (07:48, Leslie)

• Practice: Try making a test dough, practice shaping, and don’t get hung up on perfection.

  "You can even just make some, like, test doughs...Bake it off and then taste it..." (08:46, Leslie)

Essential Gear for Pie-Baking

• Tapered Rolling Pin:
  • Easier to control, naturally rolls dough out into a circle.

  “A tapered rolling pin...naturally rolls that disc out into a circle...it's effortless.” (09:22, Leslie)

  • Recommended brand: Whetstone.

  “The tapered rolling pin we like is made by a company called Whetstone, and it is a joy to use.” (10:03, Leslie)

• Plastic Wrap: For shaping and resting dough discs to protect from fridge odors and make rolling easier.

  “Fat absorbs smell in the fridge, and it's ideal to let your dough rest...” (10:26, Leslie)

• Pie Plates:
  • Glass (Pyrex): Best for custard pies, affordable, lets you check crust color.

    “The glass Pyrex pie plate...is made for most custard pie recipes...” (11:28, Leslie)

  • Oxo Glass: Deep dish—good, but Leslie prefers shallow plates for versatility.
  • Stoneware (Emile Henry): Gorgeous, retains heat, safe from thermal shock, but you can't see the bottom crust. Use with a baking stone to improve browning.
  • Aluminum (including disposable): Conducts heat well, cheap—but double up for support and always bake on a sheet pan.

    “I don't hate the aluminum ones...Just double it up to give you a little extra support…” (15:35, Leslie)

  • Vintage Tin: Superior heat conduction, less risk of soggy bottoms, great with baking stones.

    “If you really want to have a beautifully cooked bottom crust that's nice and golden brown, start looking for old metal pie tins at the thrift stores.” (16:56, Leslie)

  • General Pie Plate Advice: Don't overthink it—shallow glass is the most versatile.

    “You don't need to over complicate things...a good pie plate...could be just one from the grocery store.” (17:54, Christine)

Dough Techniques & Tools

• Best Tools:
  • Food processor: Fast and beginner-friendly for cutting butter in.

    “The best piece of equipment is a food processor because that is going to make quick work...” (19:47, Leslie)

  • Pastry blender: Manual control for butter size and texture (Leslie’s personal fave).

    “I've gone back to analog...I use a pastry blender...” (20:29, Leslie)

  • King Arthur dough whisk: Incorporates liquid smoothly without sticking—especially useful.

    “I was gifted the King Arthur dough whisk...and my life changed.” (22:03, Leslie)

• Leslie's Dough OCD: Manual tools give more control over texture (variation in butter size is key to flakiness).

  “The food processor does not give me that variation that I am looking for…” (23:07, Leslie)

  • But: If you have hand issues, use the food processor—no shame.

    “If you have hand strength or hand mobility issues...use the food processor, please.” (23:44, Leslie)

• Best Butter for Pie: Kerrygold Unsalted—rich flavor and excellent flakiness.

  “Kerrygold is...such a luscious, flaky, flavorful, so flavorful pie crust.” (24:23, Leslie)

Store-Bought Pie Crusts

• It’s Fine! Life gets busy; Leslie fully supports using a premade crust—just check for butter on the ingredients list.

  “If the idea of making a pie crust is stressing you out... just go buy the pie crust.” (25:12, Leslie) “Just make sure that they use butter... it's gonna taste good.” (25:30, Leslie)

Advanced Moves: Par-Baking & Avoiding the Dreaded “Soggy Bottom”

• Par-Baking: Necessary if your pie filling cooks faster than the crust, e.g. custard, pumpkin pies.

  “One of them is if your pie filling bakes much faster than your pie crust would... you're gonna wanna par bake your pie crust.” (26:20, Leslie)

• Soggy Bottom: Raw/floppy crust under the filling. (27:07, Leslie)
• Tips to Avoid:
  • Dust crust with sugar/flour.
  • Brush with whipped egg white as a moisture barrier.

  “You can dust the crust...you can whip up some egg white and brush your crust...” (31:05, Leslie)

Beyond Traditional Thanksgiving Pies

• Leslie’s Alternatives:
  • Double crust plum pie: Substitute plums for peaches in your favorite peach pie recipe.

    “I love a double crust plum pie, and it's basically just a peach pie with plums.” (27:31, Leslie)

  • Lemon pies: Shaker lemon pie or lemon meringue—deep flavor, uses whole lemons (without seeds).

    “Don’t sleep on the lemons...the depth and complexity of flavor in a shaker lemon pie...” (28:09, Leslie)

  • Buttermilk pie: An economic southern staple; simple mix of buttermilk, eggs, sugar, and flour.

    “It is so much more than the sum of its parts.” (29:08, Leslie)

  • Galette: Freeform, no pie plate needed; great for pears and other seasonal fruit.
  • Gluten-free Crust: Use “Cup-4-Cup” gluten-free flour blend for closest match to regular crust.

    “That one is best for pie making.” (30:09, Leslie)

Lightning Round: Troubleshooting Common Pie Problems

| Problem | Leslie’s Diagnosis/Solution | Timestamp | |-------------------------|------------------------------------------------------------------|------------| | Soggy bottom crust | Not baking long enough; dust raw crust with flour/sugar or coat with egg white for barrier | 31:05 | | Tough/chewy crust | Overworked dough; let dough rest and chill more | 31:55 | | Dough crumbles/tears | Not enough water; gently knead/warm dough in hands, don’t add water during rolling | 32:19 | | Burnt fluted edges | Cover edges with foil strips (“tent the edges”) | 33:13 |

Notable Quotes

• On Store-Bought Dough:

  “Do what works for you. Times are tough. We're all getting by the best we can. If the idea of making a pie crust is stressing you out... just go buy the pie crust.” (25:12, Leslie)

• On Avoiding Soggy Bottoms:

  “If you really want to have a beautifully cooked bottom crust that's nice and golden brown, start looking for old metal pie tins at the thrift stores.” (16:56, Leslie)

• On Favorite Pie Types:

  “If you don't eat a fruit pie hot. You have to let it cool all the way. If you want to throw it in the microwave...No way. I am a room temperature pie girl.” (06:33, Leslie)

• On Pie Baking Reality:

  “Pie baking actually is as difficult as it seems...But when you...present something really great, you should feel proud.” (34:38, Rosie)

• On Ingredients:

  “If your butter doesn't taste like anything, then you're not gonna get that buttery flavor.” (24:23, Leslie)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Leslie’s Pie Beginnings: 04:54–05:50
• Pie Intimidation & Core Techniques: 07:09–08:46
• Gear Essentials (Rolling Pin, Plates): 09:22–17:18
• Pie Plate Deep Dive: 11:28–17:18
• Dough Tools & Technique: 19:45–24:06
• Best Butter & Store-Bought Options: 24:06–25:41
• Par Baking & Soggy Bottoms: 25:51–27:07; 31:05
• Non-Traditional Thanksgiving Pies: 27:31–30:52
• Troubleshooting Lightning Round: 30:52–33:38
• Favorite Pie Crust Recipe: 33:47

Final Thoughts & Takeaways

• Pie baking can be intimidating, but the right tools, cold ingredients, and just a bit of fearlessness go a long way.
• Practice is key, and there’s no shame in shortcuts—use store-bought crust when needed and focus on what’s fun or feasible for you.
• Simplicity often wins: focus on good butter, a reliable pie plate, and enjoying the process.
• Celebrate both your pie triumphs and fellow bakers this Thanksgiving—“it’s really a labor of love.” (35:27, Christine)

To see Leslie’s full recommendations: Check the show notes or Wirecutter’s website for links to all her favorite pie gear and guides.