Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast

Episode: Great Gluten-Free Bread is Possible!
Date: October 27, 2025
Hosts: Jessica Battilana & David Tamarkin
Featured Guest: Aran Goyoaga, author of The Art of Gluten-Free Bread

Episode Overview

This episode explores the challenges, science, and latest advancements in gluten-free bread baking. Hosts Jessica and David discuss why gluten-free baking is relevant to all bakers, detail the differences between modern gluten-free breads and their early predecessors, and are joined by renowned cookbook author Aran Goyoaga to break down the essentials of gluten-free breadmaking. The show also answers listener questions about techniques and recipe conversions, while emphasizing the importance of inclusive baking.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Why Gluten-Free Bread Matters

• Inclusive Baking: 1% of Americans have celiac disease, and up to 6% experience non-celiac gluten sensitivity. (03:10)
• Family traditions can be challenged by gluten intolerance, but inclusive options let everyone share in the joy of bread.

  “If you’re not thinking about gluten free folks, then you’re not being that inclusive.” — David Tamarkin (03:23)

The Science of Gluten (07:00–08:55)

• What Is Gluten? (07:20)
  • Formed when water hydrates proteins in wheat flour (glutenin and gliadin).
  • Kneading develops gluten, creating a stretchy network that traps gas from yeast, enabling bread to rise.
• Challenge for GF Bread: Without gluten, dough lacks elasticity and gas retention—key for crumb and structure.

State of Gluten-Free Bread Today (06:01–06:55, 09:43–12:20)

• Early gluten-free breads were dense, small, and unappealing.

  “…it was like a kind of vacuum sealed styrofoam brick, basically, is how I describe it.” — David (05:35)

• Major advances include:
  • Ingredient Innovation: Gluten-free wheat starch (gluten removed) brings more wheat flavor and authentic texture.
  • Xanthan Gum: Used broadly as a binder, mimicking gluten’s elasticity.
  • Flour Blends: Bakers can choose turnkey commercial blends (e.g., King Arthur’s) or mix their own from alternative grains.

Modern Approaches to GF Bread (13:18–14:40)

• Two Main Paths:
  • Use a blend mimicking wheat (turnkey).
  • Create custom blends with alternative grains, binders, and starches.
• Guest: Aran Goyoaga advocates for building bread around naturally GF whole grain flours for flavor and nutrition.

Featured Interview: Aran Goyoaga on Gluten-Free Bread

(14:40–21:14)

Background

• Grew up in a pastry chef family, diagnosed with gluten intolerance in her 30s.
• Approach: Develop each recipe from scratch using naturally gluten-free grains rather than adapting wheat recipes.

Blending Flours for Flavor & Texture (16:53–18:12)

• Chosen flours vary by type of bread (millet for light focaccia, buckwheat/rice for hearty breads).

  “Each type of bread requires…a different flavor, a different texture. I really wanted to focus on flavor and texture.” — Aran (16:53)

Three Core Components of GF Bread (18:45–21:05)

1. Whole Grain: Millet, buckwheat, brown rice flour, etc.
2. Starch: Tapioca, potato (for light, open crumb); tapioca = crisp/gummy, potato = fluffy.
3. Binder:
   • Traditional: Xanthan gum.
   • Modern/Preferred: Psyllium husk for absorbency and dough hydration (“allows for some elasticity”).
   • Others: Flaxseed, chia.

Why Avoid Cornstarch: Some GF folks have other dietary restrictions; also less desirable texture for bread.

Practical Baking Tips

(Throughout, esp. 22:39–29:03)

Making Great GF Bread:

• Steam Is Key (24:39–27:15):

  • Use steam in the oven (cast iron with water or Dutch oven) for a crispy, well-expanded crust.

  “…steam is especially important with gluten free bread because if you don’t steam them, it tends to dry out and…not ever going to expand to its maximum potential.” — David (25:22)

• Egg Wash for Sandwich Breads:

  • Double egg wash (before/after final rise) keeps the top moist, preventing a dry skin and poor oven spring. (27:32)

• Batter–like Dough Is Normal:

  • Higher hydration is required in GF dough; it will look like batter but sets up as starches and binders hydrate over time.

  “A gluten free bread dough that looks like batter is perfectly normal.” — David (29:09)

• Be Gentle:

  • Without gluten, dough requires a lighter touch during shaping. Use pans to support shape if needed. (30:42–31:04)

• Don’t Add Flour in Panic:

  • Resist the urge to correct wet dough by adding flour—that can negatively affect texture.

Listener Q&A Highlights

1. Can I Make Real GF Sourdough With Crust and Airy Crumb?

A: Yes! Begin with quality gluten-free flour or blend, use steam in the oven, and remember many wheat-bread techniques (proofing, baking vessels, etc.) apply to GF bread (24:39–27:32).

2. Why Is My GF Bread Dough Like Batter?

A: It’s normal—GF flours are “thirsty,” requiring high hydration. Let dough rest (as directed) for proper absorption. (28:51–31:19)

3. How Do I Convert Wheat Bread Recipes to GF?

Suggestions:

• Increase hydration (about 2 T water per cup of flour to start).
• Shorter fermentation times.
• Slightly increase salt.
• Be prepared for trial and error, or start with well-tested GF recipes if new to breadmaking. (32:00–34:46)

Notable Quotes & Moments

• On Inclusion:

  “Baking is like a joyful and inclusive thing to do. But, you know, if you’re not thinking about gluten free folks...you’re not being that inclusive.” — David (03:23)

• On Texture:

  “This gluten free wheat starch…is like a magic ingredient. Makes breads that really do feel and taste like wheat bread and sort of make it indistinguishable.” — Jessica (10:50)

• On Panic:

  “The panic, I mean, the panic applies to all of us.” — Jessica (00:33, 31:48)
  “Absolutely. The panic is universal.” — David (00:50, 31:52)

• On Modern GF Bread:

  “There’s legitimately great gluten free bread now…you could eat [it] without really ever knowing that they don’t contain gluten.” — Jessica (06:25)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 03:23 | The importance of gluten-free baking for inclusion
• 07:00–08:55 | How gluten works in bread and why its absence is challenging
• 10:50 | The "magic" of gluten-free wheat starch
• 14:40–21:14 | Interview with Aran Goyoaga: approaches, components, and wisdom
• 22:39 | Listener Q&A: flour choices, steam, sourdough tips
• 29:03 | Why gluten-free doughs are so wet
• 32:00 | How to convert wheat bread recipes to gluten-free

Final Thoughts & Recommendations

Baking Is for Everyone

David and Jessica emphasize that adding gluten-free bakes to your repertoire isn’t just a matter of need, but of excitement and inclusion. They challenge professional bakers to embrace GF bread and highlight that, thanks to new flours and knowledge, "gluten-free bread is bread."

Recipe Picks

• Sunken Berry Almond Cake – a showstopper that’s “accidentally” gluten-free (37:37)
• Gluten-Free Chocolate Mousse Cake with Raspberries – a stunning birthday cake (39:04)

Hosts' Challenge

“It’s time for professional bakers to wake up, smell the non-gluten flour, and make non-gluten bread available at your bakeries.” — Jessica (37:02)

For more recipes, tips, and support, visit KingArthurBaking.com or call their Baker’s Hotline.
Guest info: Aran Goyoaga’s work is at aranGoyoaga.com

Summary by Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast.