Podcast Title: Things Bakers Know: The King Arthur Baking Podcast
Episode: History in the Baking: Talking Biscuits with Deb Freeman
Release Date: May 19, 2025
Hosts: Jessica Battilana and David Tamarkin
Guest: Deb Freeman, Culinary Historian
1. Exploring the Essence of Biscuits
The episode opens with Jessica and David delving into the seemingly simple yet profoundly intricate world of biscuits. Jessica remarks on the ubiquitous presence of biscuits across various settings, from grocery store canisters to high-end bakeries, highlighting their versatility and foundational role in American baking.
Jessica Battilana [00:39]: "Underneath the craggy, flaky, golden crust and between all those layers, biscuits are actually a pretty complicated and fascinating bake."
David echoes this sentiment, emphasizing the enduring popularity of biscuits in contemporary baking trends, citing examples like the Harlem Biscuit Company's success in Upper Manhattan and innovative recipes such as Bon Appetit's garlic bread biscuits.
2. Historical Insights with Deb Freeman
The conversation takes a scholarly turn as Deb Freeman joins the hosts to shed light on the rich history of biscuits in America. Deb shares her personal connection to biscuits, recalling fond memories of her grandmother making biscuits from scratch in the South.
Deb Freeman [08:09]: "I remember getting them out of the pan. She would melt a stick of butter over the biscuits and hand them to me, telling me to be careful because it was hot."
Deb traces the origins of American biscuits back to ancient Rome's hardtack—basic, long-lasting bread made from flour, water, and salt. She explains how these early biscuits were far from the flaky delights we enjoy today.
Deb Freeman [09:21]: "When biscuits originally came to be, they were called hardtack. They weren't called biscuits. They were meant for sailors, baked four times to ensure they wouldn't spoil."
The evolution of biscuits took a pivotal turn in the American South with the introduction of buttermilk and lard, ingredients that added flavor and texture, transforming hardtack into the more palatable biscuits familiar today.
Deb highlights the significant contributions of black bakers and chefs in refining and popularizing biscuits. She recounts the story of Carl Smith, a Pullman Porter, who innovated the mass production of biscuit mix by creating a premixed combination of lard, flour, salt, and baking powder. This breakthrough paved the way for the ready-to-bake biscuit mixes available in stores today.
Deb Freeman [12:24]: "Pullman Porters were black men who worked on trains, creating incredible meals in tiny kitchens. Carl Smith's innovation with premixed biscuit mix revolutionized how biscuits are made."
Additionally, Deb touches on the cultural dichotomy between Northern and Southern attitudes toward bread consumption. She reveals that Northerners once deemed hot bread—like biscuits—as "barbarian," preferring room-temperature slices for perceived digestive benefits.
Deb Freeman [14:26]: "Northerners thought cooler bread was better for digestion and viewed those eating hot biscuits in the South as barbaric."
3. Listener Q&A: Mastering the Perfect Biscuit
Transitioning to the interactive segment, "Ask the Bakers," Jessica and David address common listener questions aimed at perfecting biscuit-making techniques.
a. Best Flour for Biscuits
Jessica and David discuss the importance of using lower protein flour to achieve tender and fluffy biscuits. They introduce King Arthur's new buttermilk biscuit flour blend, specially formulated to enhance biscuit quality.
Jessica Battilana [19:08]: "The best flour for biscuits is a lower protein flour, milled from softer wheat to ensure less gluten development and a tender texture."
b. Achieving Flakiness with Butter
A caller inquires about selecting and handling butter for flaky, layered biscuits. The hosts recommend using American-style butter with higher water content to create steam pockets during baking, essential for flakiness.
David Tamarkin [21:52]: "American butter has a little more water, which helps create the steam needed for those flaky layers."
They also discuss techniques for incorporating cold butter into the dough, such as grating or cutting into cubes, to maintain its integrity and promote flakiness.
c. Preventing Flat Biscuits and Ensuring High Rise
Another caller seeks advice on preventing biscuits from being flat. The hosts emphasize the importance of cutting biscuits without twisting the cutter to allow proper rise and recommend making biscuits taller before baking, as they typically only rise to half their dough height in the oven.
David Tamarkin [24:38]: "A biscuit is only gonna rise half of its height in the oven. Make sure your dough is tall before baking."
4. Engaging Anecdote: The Biscuit Basket at UNC Basketball Games
A standout moment in the episode is a caller's enthusiastic recounting of a unique tradition at the University of North Carolina (UNC) basketball games. In collaboration with Bojangles, if UNC scores over 100 points in a home game, fans receive free biscuits, creating an electrifying atmosphere.
Caller [26:50]: "If UNC scores over 100 points, everyone gets biscuits. It's called a biscuit basket, and the crowd goes wild when it happens."
This playful intersection of sports and baking underscores the cultural significance of biscuits beyond the kitchen.
5. Hosts' Personal Baking Plans
In a lighter segment, Jessica and David share their upcoming baking projects. Jessica expresses her annual ritual of making homemade cake donuts, appreciating their fresh, warm flavors despite the effort required. David discusses his endeavor to perfect challah, focusing on mastering the proofing process to achieve the ideal texture and shape.
Jessica Battilana [31:37]: "About once a year, I make donuts at home. Freshly fried cake donuts with a touch of nutmeg—no sugar coating needed."
David Tamarkin [32:50]: "I'm making challah from our big book of bread. The hardest part is getting the proofing just right to avoid tearing."
6. Season Finale and Future Teasers
As the episode nears its end, the hosts reflect on the inaugural season of "Things Bakers Know," expressing gratitude to their listeners and guests. They tease the upcoming second season, hinting at topics like holiday baking, pie making, focaccia, and baking with kids.
Jessica Battilana [35:00]: "We've had such a good time talking about everything from cookies in space to birthday death cakes. Stay tuned for season two covering holiday baking, pie, focaccia, and baking with kids."
Conclusion
This episode of "Things Bakers Know" offers a comprehensive exploration of biscuits, blending historical context with practical baking advice. Through engaging discussions and expert insights from Deb Freeman, listeners gain a deeper appreciation for the humble biscuit's role in American culinary tradition. The interactive Q&A segment further equips bakers with the knowledge to perfect their craft, while the personal anecdotes add a relatable and entertaining touch to the conversation.
For more detailed insights and additional resources, listeners are encouraged to visit the show notes, which include links to Deb Freeman's work and related articles on the King Arthur Baking website.
Notable Quotes:
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Deb Freeman [09:21]: "When biscuits originally came to be, they were called hardtack. They weren't called biscuits. They were meant for sailors, baked four times to ensure they wouldn't spoil."
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David Tamarkin [21:52]: "American butter has a little more water, which helps create the steam needed for those flaky layers."
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Caller [26:52]: "After he hit his second one, he said, I am the biscuit king. I saw it swish and heard the building explode and let out a roar of my own, too."