Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"
Episode 94: Adaptive Sewing, with Lynn Brannelly
Release Date: October 7, 2025
Host: Carol Frase
Guest: Lynn Brannelly, Sewn Adaptive

Episode Overview

This episode explores the world of adaptive sewing with guest Lynn Brannelly, founder of Sewn Adaptive. With over 30 years in costume design for film and television, Lynn has channeled her expertise into creating and altering apparel for people with disabilities. The conversation delves into the challenges faced by the disabled community regarding clothing, practical solutions for adaptive design, and Lynn's journey and mission to make fashion more inclusive, comfortable, and expressive for all.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

Lynn’s Sewing Background and Journey

• Early Passion and Self-teaching: Lynn began sewing at age 7 and relied on Threads magazine as her primary resource before formal training.

  "Back when I was learning to sew, Threads would be the equivalent of what is now the Internet for sewers. And I used to devour and study Threads magazine..." (01:52)

• Late Academic Start Due to Dyslexia: Lynn is self-taught until she returned to school as an adult, after her dyslexia diagnosis, to study fashion design.
• Career in Costume Design: Spent decades in film/TV costuming, which honed her skills in tailoring and problem-solving.

The Genesis of Sewn Adaptive

• Runway of Dreams Project: The pivotal moment came after working on adaptive alterations for the Runway of Dreams Foundation show, exposing her to the fashion industry's limited adaptive offerings.

  "...the fashion industry has a very limited and narrow view of adaptive design. And... the disabled people themselves aren't really being offered an opportunity to contribute to design." (03:10)

• Gap in the Market: National brands offer minimal adaptive options, often generic and lacking in style or customization.
• Focus on Fit, Not Just Function: Lynn identified basic proportional and fit adjustments as critical but overlooked needs.

Common Adaptive Alterations and Functional Innovations

• Fitting for Wheelchair Users:
  • Jeans: Lower front rise and raise the back for a better fit when seated, avoiding fabric bunching.

    "I will lower the rise, which lengthens the waistband. I will sometimes raise up the back of the pant, and just doing that takes away all that excess in the front." (08:07)

  • Sourcing Extra Fabric: Often, the hem is used for patching; fabric matching isn't crucial at the back due to belts/chair backs.
• Sleeve Design for Cleanliness: Reducing sleeve ease to prevent cuffs from dragging on wheelchair wheels; uses secure cuffs.
• Innovative Sleeve Solution: For white suits, inserts vinyl on sleeve undersides for easy cleaning.

  "We came up with this illusion of putting in a vinyl insert on the underside of her sleeve...she can just wipe it clean." (11:40)

• Customization for Dwarfism: Significant alterations or complete remakes are sometimes necessary to achieve correct proportions.
• Pattern Making: Creating and storing custom patterns for repeat clients.

Working with the Rollettes and Adaptive Fashion Community

• The Rollettes: Professional, Los Angeles-based wheelchair dance team and empowerment group. Lynn creates performance and event attire.

  "Every year, they have a convention called Rollettes Experience...and sewn adaptive has been able to be a support vendor for the last three years..." (14:20)

• Visibility and Successes: Outfits designed for events like Sundance attracted attention—even from able-bodied people.

Virtual Fittings and Accessibility

• Transition from Storefront to Virtual/House Calls:

  "70% of my business has always been virtual fittings and mail in alterations." (17:37)

• Remote Process: Uses video calls to assist with measurements and pinning; clients mail garments for alteration.
• Nationwide Demand: Frequently asked about finding local adaptive tailoring—underscores widespread unmet need.
• Vision for Certification: Hopes to develop training/certification for tailors and alterations professionals to handle adaptive needs.

Challenges in the Industry and with Specific Alterations

• Gaps in Dry Cleaning/Tailoring Industry: Inexperience and liability concerns lead to disabled customers being turned away.
• Proportional Complexity with Dwarfism: "Reshaping" entire ready-to-wear garments can cost as much as simply making custom clothes.
• Corporate Reluctance: Brands fear the risk/cost of investing in adaptive lines, emphasizing the need for custom solutions.

Pattern Design and the “NOMI” Collaboration

• Partnership with GNOME Patterns/NOMI:

  "...when we were talking about...being a NOMI licensee...I pitched back...would you consider allowing SewnAdaptive to be a licensee for the Adaptive category? And they said yes." (30:36)

• Adaptive-First Designs: Subtle modifications such as asymmetrical hems and high-low tops serve both seated users and fashion trends.
• Intentional Functional Elements in Patterns: E.g., side zips for easier access, omitting back pockets on pants for safety.
• Supplemental Instructions: Provides sew-along guidance for adapting patterns further, without requiring extra permission.

Adaptive Sewing in Media and Industry Representation

• Invisible Solutions: Lynn’s adaptive designs for film/TV are intentionally unnoticeable on-screen—“no one is the wiser.”
• Advocacy for Visibility: Expresses interest in participating on design shows like Project Runway to highlight and normalize adaptive fashion.

  “Adaptive doesn’t have to look any different than any other design. It doesn’t. All the stuff that I do, like I said, you don’t know. You don’t know that I’ve done it.” (37:04)

Vision and Goals for the Future

• Paralympics 2028 Costume Design:

  “I want to be the costume designer for the Paralympics...here in Los Angeles.” (39:45)

• Accreditation and Training Program: Aspires to certify tailors/alterations specialists nationwide in adaptive techniques.
• Mentoring Neurodiverse Interns:

  “There is skillsets within neurodiverse people that actually, in the sewing world, makes you better.” (40:44)

• Pedal-less Sewing Education: Wishes to teach people with disabilities how to sew without foot pedals to foster self-employment.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Adaptive Design Gaps:

  “There, there aren’t options out there. They’re very generic. They lack style, they lack anybody’s personal aesthetic...No two bodies of ours are the same. It’s not rocket science. It’s the same working principles. It’s just a different silhouette.” (06:36)

• On Pattern Design Philosophy:

  “All of my GNOME designs look like regular designs to those looking at the envelope. But every bit of the design that I did was intentional in proportion.” (30:36)

• On Impact of Proper Fit:

  “He put it on and he, I mean, he welled up. He was literally like, I have never looked this good. And it’s like, no, you’ve always looked this good. It’s just, it’s never fit properly.” (27:55)

• On the Overlap Between Disability and the Need for Alterations:

  “With 26% of the population out there, all 100% need alterations...Unlike able-bodied people, they don’t have the option not to have this work done.” (22:47)

• On Normalizing Adaptive Fashion:

  “I would also love for the overall fashion industry to normalize that. Adaptive doesn’t have to look any different than any other design.” (37:04)

Timestamps for Important Segments

| Timestamp | Segment/Topic | |-----------|---------------| | 01:26 | Lynn’s sewing origin story and reliance on Threads magazine | | 03:10 | The beginnings of Sewn Adaptive and realizing gaps in adaptive fashion | | 08:07 | Common alterations for wheelchair users—detailed pant fitting | | 11:40 | Innovations for keeping sleeves clean and the vinyl insert solution | | 14:20 | Who are the Rollettes? Supporting and outfitting their dance group | | 17:37 | Transition to virtual fittings and remote service model | | 22:47 | Market need for adaptive alterations—challenges at traditional tailors | | 25:33 | Dwarfism and the requirement for extensive garment reshaping | | 27:35 | Showcasing stylish custom adaptive designs—case study with actor Kristoff | | 30:36 | GNOME Patterns/NOMI partnership and adaptive pattern design philosophy | | 35:40 | Sew-alongs and instructional content for adaptive tweaks | | 37:04 | Lack of “visible” adaptive fashion in media and hopes for Project Runway | | 39:45 | Lynn’s future goals: Paralympics, certification, mentorship |

Concluding Thoughts

Lynn Brannelly is breaking barriers and advocating for fashion that respects and serves the needs of people with disabilities, without sacrificing style. Her practical ingenuity, client-first philosophy, and efforts in education and mentorship set an inspiring example. The episode is a must-listen for anyone interested in advancing inclusivity in sewing and fashion.

Further Information & Resources

• sewnadaptive.com — Gallery and services
• Simplicity patterns designed by Lynn Brannelly (show notes will include links and pattern numbers)
• For questions or interest in adaptive certification/training: Contact via Sewn Adaptive website

Standout Quote:

"Adaptive doesn’t have to look any different than any other design. It doesn’t. All the stuff that I do, like I said, you don’t know. You don’t know that I’ve done it." — Lynn Brannelly (37:04)