Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"
Episode 90: An Historic Clothing Collection, with Kiki Smith
Release Date: June 3, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 90 of the Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads", host Carol Fraser engages in an enlightening conversation with Kiki Smith, a renowned professor of Costume Design at Smith College and the director of the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. This episode delves into the origins, evolution, and profound significance of the collection, as well as its impact on both academia and the broader community.

Meet Kiki Smith and Her Work

Carol Fraser opens the discussion by introducing Kiki Smith, highlighting her role as a professor and the director of the Historic Clothing Collection at Smith College. Kiki’s book, Real Clothes, Real 200 Years of What Women Wore, published in 2023 by Rizzoli, serves as a cornerstone for the conversation. The book showcases garments from the collection, emphasizing everyday clothing worn by real women, and features selections now exhibited at the New York Historical Society.

Notable Quote:

• Carol Fraser [02:06]: "I've been a long fan of you and what you've been doing and I want to congratulate you on your book and on the exhibition…"

Origins and Evolution of the Historic Clothing Collection

Kiki Smith provides a comprehensive background on how the Historic Clothing Collection was established. It began 42 years ago, initiated by a passionate student who recognized the potential for a dedicated collection beyond mere storage. Initially featuring exquisite French couture and eclectic pieces like monk's robes and tutus, the collection was repositioned from the stockroom to a more accessible hallway, enhancing its use for educational purposes.

Over the years, student involvement played a pivotal role in expanding the collection through donations and mini-exhibits. Kiki emphasizes the collection's dual purpose as both a teaching archive and a resource for various disciplines, including costume design, sociology, and anthropology.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [03:01]: "I started using them in class. A few people started donating clothes and that really got Beth going…"

Challenges and Growth of the Collection

Kiki discusses the challenges faced in managing and expanding the collection, particularly space constraints. Her enthusiasm led her to source additional garments from platforms like eBay, focusing on affordable, everyday clothing that adds depth to the collection. However, increasing costs and limited storage have slowed this growth, presenting ongoing challenges.

One significant milestone was the 40th-anniversary event, which underscored the community's support and the collection's importance. Through networking with influential figures like Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times, Kiki was able to secure support from fashion magnates such as Diane von Furstenberg, leading to the publication of her book and the subsequent exhibition.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [08:30]: "She said, you need to make the college love, love, love your collection…"

Impact of the Book and Exhibition

The publication of Real Clothes and the accompanying exhibition have significantly elevated the collection's profile. Kiki shares anecdotes illustrating how the collection resonates personally with individuals, fostering a deep emotional connection to the garments. The book’s storytelling approach places each piece within its historical and personal context, making the collection relatable and engaging.

Notable Quote:

• Carol Fraser [12:20]: "I think everyone can relate to the idea that clothes hold people and memories…"

The Detective Work of Uncovering Stories

A fascinating aspect highlighted is the meticulous detective work involved in uncovering the stories behind each garment. Kiki recounts how seemingly ordinary items, like a pair of 1938 cotton dresses, reveal intricate histories upon closer examination. Through collaborative analysis with students, details like fading patterns can hint at the garment's origins and the wearer's circumstances, adding layers of meaning to each piece.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [12:52]: "But most of them, we don't. The ones I get from eBay, I write on the back of the accession tag where the eBay seller came from…"

Teaching and Educational Value

Kiki elaborates on how the collection is integrated into her curriculum at Smith College. Courses like "Reading Dress: Archival Studies of Clothing" encourage students to engage deeply with the garments, fostering skills in historical research, sewing techniques, and critical analysis. The hands-on approach enables students to appreciate the craftsmanship and cultural significance of historical clothing.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [19:24]: "I teach a course that every year… is called reading dress, archival studies of clothing…"

Personal Stories and Emotional Connections

Throughout the conversation, Kiki shares poignant stories that illustrate the emotional connections people have with clothing. From students preserving family garments to neighbors finding personal meaning in the collection, these narratives underscore the profound impact that clothing has on individual and collective memory.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [16:30]: "Clothes hold people and memories. And I think that's one of the things that's so attractive about them."

The Craftsmanship Behind Historical Garments

The discussion also touches on the craftsmanship evident in historical garments. Kiki explains that even as sewing technology evolved, the blend of machine and handwork remained integral to garment construction. This attention to detail is something her students learn to recognize and appreciate, enhancing their own sewing and design skills.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [23:35]: "Most things before 1860… by the time we get to those two dresses from the 30s… there's still a lot of handwork."

Nostalgia and Modern Relevance

Carol Fraser and Kiki Smith explore the theme of nostalgia, discussing how historical garments evoke personal memories and societal changes. They reflect on how fashion has evolved, with elements from past decades influencing contemporary styles. This blend of nostalgia and modern relevance makes the collection not only a historical archive but also a source of inspiration for current and future fashion enthusiasts.

Notable Quote:

• Carol Fraser [26:21]: "I was rediscovering the forties through this book, too… and they could be very modern."

Concluding Thoughts

In wrapping up, both Carol and Kiki emphasize the enduring significance of preserving and studying historical clothing. The collection serves as a testament to the stories, struggles, and triumphs of the women who wore these garments. It bridges past and present, offering invaluable insights for both educators and sewing aficionados.

Notable Quote:

• Kiki Smith [36:08]: "This has been delightful. Thank you, Carol."

Final Remarks

Carol Fraser thanks Kiki Smith for her insightful contributions and encourages listeners to explore the Real Clothes exhibition and book to fully appreciate the rich narratives woven into the fabric of history. The episode underscores the vital role that clothing plays in understanding and connecting with our past.

Key Takeaways:

• The Smith College Historic Clothing Collection is a dynamic teaching archive enriched by student involvement and community support.
• Preservation of everyday garments offers deep insights into historical contexts and personal stories.
• The blend of hand and machine sewing in historical garments highlights the craftsmanship of past eras.
• Personal connections to clothing enhance the emotional resonance of historical collections.
• Educational programs leveraging the collection foster a deep appreciation for fashion history and design.

For More Information:

• Book: Real Clothes, Real 200 Years of What Women Wore by Kiki Smith
• Exhibition: Available at the New York Historical Society until June 22
• Smith College Historic Clothing Collection: Smith College Website
• Threads Magazine: threadsmagazine.com

Keep on Sewing with Threads!