Podcast Summary: Creating Fitted Bodices with Gretchen Hirsch | Episode 87

Introduction

In Episode 87 of the Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads", hosts Jeanine Clegg and Carol Frazia engage in an in-depth conversation with Gretchen Hirsch, the founder of Charm Patterns. Known affectionately as Gertie, Hirsch is a renowned pattern designer, author of several sewing-related books, and a passionate advocate for 1950s fashion and vintage styles. The episode delves into the intricacies of creating fitted bodices, exploring historical inspirations, modern techniques, and practical advice for sewing enthusiasts.

Fitted Bodices and Boning Techniques

The discussion begins with an examination of Hirsch's latest book, Gertie's Charmed Sewing Studio, which introduces three new patterns: the Madeline dress, the Camille sheath, and the Lillian jacket. Unlike her previous works, these patterns feature extended sizing and a highly fitted silhouette without the use of boning. Hirsch explains her departure from boning in these designs, attributing it to historical accuracy and the structural integrity provided by fabric manipulation.

"Looking at these dresses, and they didn't have boning. They had the structure that I wanted with just lining and the fabric and the pleats, the darts, all of that was creating the structure." — Gretchen Hirsch [01:59]

Hirsch emphasizes the importance of undergarments in achieving the desired fit, noting that historical garments often relied on structured undergarments to support the dress rather than built-in boning.

Balancing Structure and Comfort

While Hirsch is known for her boned, strapless bodices at Charm Patterns, she discusses her evolving approach to design, incorporating softer silhouettes and strategic placement of boning. This balance ensures that garments provide both structure and comfort.

"I think as I get a little further in my career, I have been experimenting a little bit more with a bit softer silhouette." — Gretchen Hirsch [04:27]

Engineering Boning for Support

Carol Frazia asks Hirsch to elaborate on the engineering behind boning, to which Hirsch provides a detailed explanation. She highlights the use of vertical spiral steel bones anchored at the waist to maintain the bodice’s structure.

"You have these vertical spiral steel bones, and they need to be anchored somewhere. So you have a sort of anchor at the waist." — Gretchen Hirsch [05:54]

Hirsch shares practical tips for customizing boning lengths to prevent discomfort and ensure effective support.

"I always make it a quarter inch shorter than the seam line where it's being inserted." — Gretchen Hirsch [08:55]

Practical Tips for Sewing Boned Bodices

Hirsch offers valuable advice on handling spiral steel boning, including her preferred method of finishing the ends using Teflon tape instead of traditional end caps. She also recommends investing in quality metal cutters, such as the Greenlee 722, to streamline the process.

"Teflon tape... wraps the ends and sticks to itself. It has worked really well for me." — Gretchen Hirsch [09:34]

Pattern Design and Size Range Considerations

The conversation shifts to the challenges of designing patterns that accommodate a wide size range. Hirsch discusses the meticulous testing process required to ensure that features like neckline pleats maintain their aesthetic across various sizes.

"We were continually testing to make sure that the pleat looked as beautiful on a size 8 as it does on a size 32." — Gretchen Hirsch [21:41]

She underscores the importance of creating a muslin prototype to customize fit adjustments before finalizing the garment.

"Doing a muslin is always really important in these types of fitted bodices." — Gretchen Hirsch [14:30]

Petticoats and Undergarments

Hirsch shares her insights on petticoats, emphasizing the difference between commercially available options and historically accurate designs. She discusses the use of various fabrics to achieve the desired volume and softness, advocating for handmade petticoats to match vintage-inspired dresses.

"We have a petticoat pattern... people want to sew petticoats because there aren't a lot of historically accurate ones available these days to buy." — Gretchen Hirsch [31:05]

Upcoming Projects: Hollywood Icons Theme

Looking ahead, Hirsch introduces the Hollywood Icons theme for 2025, inspired by iconic Hollywood figures from the 1930s to the 1960s. This theme will feature patterns inspired by stars like Jean Harlow, Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, Ingrid Bergman, and Elizabeth Taylor, each reflecting the distinct styles and tailoring techniques of their respective eras.

"Every month, we're going to use a different icon as our inspiration... Marilyn Monroe, Grace Kelly, and Elizabeth Taylor." — Gretchen Hirsch [36:00]

Conclusion and Resources

As the episode wraps up, Hirsch provides listeners with resources to explore her work further, including her Instagram handle (@urty18) and her website charmpatterns.com. She encourages sewists to engage with pattern adjustments and emphasizes the timeless beauty of vintage-inspired designs.

"You can go to my Instagram, which is urty18, and you can see all of our recent designs on Patreon and through Charm Patterns." — Gretchen Hirsch [38:26]

Jeanine and Carol thank Hirsch for her insightful contributions, highlighting the episode's wealth of practical advice and creative inspiration for sewing enthusiasts.

Key Takeaways

• Historical Inspiration: Hirsch’s designs are deeply rooted in vintage styles, particularly from the 1950s, emphasizing authenticity in construction without relying solely on boning.

• Boning Techniques: Proper engineering of spiral steel boning is crucial for creating structured, fitted bodices. Customizing boning lengths and using methods like Teflon tape for finishing enhance both comfort and garment integrity.

• Pattern Customization: Designing patterns for a broad size range requires extensive testing and the creation of muslin prototypes to ensure fit and aesthetic consistency across sizes.

• Undergarments Matter: The choice of undergarments, including petticoats, plays a significant role in achieving the desired silhouette and support for vintage-inspired garments.

• Future Projects: The upcoming Hollywood Icons theme promises a diverse exploration of vintage styles, encouraging sewists to draw inspiration from classic Hollywood fashion icons.

Notable Quotes

• "I always make it a quarter inch shorter than the seam line where it's being inserted." — Gretchen Hirsch [08:55]
• "Doing a muslin is always really important in these types of fitted bodices." — Gretchen Hirsch [14:30]
• "Every month, we're going to use a different icon as our inspiration." — Gretchen Hirsch [36:00]

Further Information

For more details on Gretchen Hirsch’s patterns and upcoming projects, visit charmpatterns.com or follow her on Instagram @urty18. Additionally, listeners can access links to discussed patterns and sewing retreats in this episode’s notes at threadsmagazine.com.