Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"

Episode 96: Folkwear, Patterns From Around the World, with Molly Hamilton

Date: December 2, 2025
Host: Jeanine Clegg (Threads Magazine)
Guest: Molly Hamilton (Owner of Folkwear and The Green Pepper)

Episode Overview

In this rich and engaging episode, host Jeanine Clegg sits down with Molly Hamilton, owner of the renowned Folkwear pattern company, to explore the world of historic and folk sewing patterns. With about 100 patterns from across global traditions, Molly delves into the company’s ethos of authentic, detail-oriented designs, their digital transformation, and what it means to appreciate cultural garments respectfully. Listeners also get insight into the practicalities of running a niche pattern company, upcoming releases, and the joy of bringing folk patterns into modern wardrobes.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The Folkwear Difference

• Origins: Founded nearly 50 years ago by three women in California as an answer to the limitations of the "Big Four" pattern companies, offering authentic folk and historical garments.

  “They were sort of hippies... but also just really into beautiful handmade folk clothing from around the world.” (Molly, 02:00)

• Focus: Each pattern is based on original garments, with detailed instructions for embroidery, embellishment, and construction techniques unique to various global traditions.

Sourcing Vintage Garments

• Many designs come from garments gifted by customers or found during travels, ensuring authenticity and a living connection to folk cultures.
  (03:11)

Digitizing the Collection

• Necessity and Preservation: Many patterns existed only in fragile vellum or on old plates. Digitization became essential as originals began to deteriorate.

  “We scan, digitize, regrade... and create new layouts. It’s a lot of work... it was important that we have a digital record... for future generations.” (Molly, 05:06)

• Modern Formats: Folkwear now offers both printed and PDF/projector files for accessibility and international customers.
  (04:00; 05:55)

Print vs. PDF Patterns

• While most patterns are available in print, a few less popular ones (like embroidery or niche garments) are PDF-only. Folkwear acquired a large-format printer to offer physical copies of digital patterns—a valuable service for those preferring traditional printed tissue.

  “I invested in a large format printer and a folding machine... The cost is $8 per file, and after three, $6 a file.” (Molly, 08:15)

Industry Shifts and Adaptation

• The closure of major retailers (Joann stores) and changes in large pattern companies have directly impacted Folkwear’s wholesale business.
• Folkwear’s in-house printing ensures sustainability even as others in the industry contract.

  “...when they [Joann] went out of business, that was unfortunate for us that we lost a pretty good wholesale customer and, you know, didn’t get our last bills paid.” (Molly, 12:31)

Bestselling and Popular Patterns

• Japanese Garments: Kimono, Happy and Haori, Hakama, Kataginu remain perennial favorites.
• Mexican and European Patterns: “Old Mexico Dress,” Austrian Dirndl, Scottish Kilt are top sellers, used for festivals and everyday wear.
  (13:57)
• Costuming Demand: Trends often follow theater and pop culture (e.g., “Downton Abbey” increasing Edwardian pattern sales). Western wear is also resurging.

  “A lot of our patterns are used by costumers and theater and movie productions.” (Molly, 15:29)

Everyday and Artistic Uses of Patterns

• Folkwear patterns blend tradition with versatility—modern fabric choices and personal modifications adapt them to contemporary wardrobes or create wearable art.

  “Our Tibetan panel coat... handwoven fabric... but we see it made with... modern quilting... I’ve seen it made with Ikat fabric that looks a little bit more folky...” (Molly, 18:03)

• Notable Example: Turning the Gibson Girl blouse into a work-ready, modern-seeming garment with just a fabric change.
  (18:58; 19:58)

Included Techniques: Embroidery, Lace, Craft

• Instructions for traditional handwork are a hallmark, distinguishing Folkwear from other brands.

  “It’s a really special thing... so much of that information is included in the pattern—how to do the traditional handwork...” (Molly, 20:07)

Cultural Respect and Appropriation

• Folkwear collaborates with cultural insiders (e.g., Hawaiian Mumu with a Hawaiian designer), and is sensitive to not publishing garments where cultural exclusivity is preferred (e.g., Seminole garments).

  “We strive constantly... to make sure that it is appreciation.” (Molly, 24:07)

Upcoming Releases and Revivals

• New Patterns: Norwegian folk work shirt, Guayabera shirt, and revivals of archival patterns like the Algerian suit are in development.
  (25:35)

Construction Techniques: Square Armholes & Gussets

• Traditional constructions favor rectangles/squares to minimize waste and maximize fit for various bodies.

  “I think they fit really well... it makes garments easier to fit because they’re not fitted, they’re not supposed to be fitted.” (Molly, 27:06)

Fitting Resources

• While Folkwear hasn’t produced broad fitting tutorials, some garments like the Austrian Dirndl include tailored fitting guides.
• Sew alongs and extra sewing tips are available via Folkwear’s blog and resources.
  (29:07; 30:11)

Personal Surprises & Pattern Adaptations

• Molly has adapted shirt patterns (e.g., Victorian or Croatian shirts) into dresses after seeing customer creativity, highlighting the patterns’ versatility.

  “The one that surprised me... was I made the 202 Victorian shirt into a dress and... I was really surprised how much I liked it.” (Molly, 30:28)

The Big Sky Riding Skirt

• Unique convertible "split skirt" design from the 1800s transforms from skirt to pants—practical and chic.

  “There’s a fabric panel in the front... buttoned one way, it is pants... button... the other way and it looks like a skirt.” (Molly, 32:12)

Company Achievements and the Road Ahead

• Survived flooding in Asheville in 2024, expanded fabric and notions offerings, opened the studio for community, and is gearing up for Folkwear’s 50th anniversary in 2026 with pattern reissues and celebrations.

  “We’ve just started opening up our studio for open studio... inviting local people or visitors... That’s been a lot of fun.” (Molly, 34:16)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Maintaining Cultural Integrity:

  “A lot of our patterns... are made in collaboration with people from the culture... I think that is important that we keep remembering that... it evolves over time.” (Molly, 24:09)

• On Versatile Pattern Use:

  “I’ve made the Croatian shirt into a dress. I’m wearing that now... I love sort of thinking about how the patterns are used in different ways...” (Molly, 31:22)

• On Business Resilience:

  “Recovering from [the hurricane] has been a big effort as well. And I’m glad that we’re still here and going...” (Molly, 34:48)

• On Looking Ahead:

  “For next year, we... are celebrating Folkware’s 50th anniversary. We have a lot of fun things planned...” (Molly, 35:15)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 01:57 — Folkwear’s founding and philosophy
• 04:00 — Digitizing the pattern collection
• 08:15 — In-house printing and print/PDF services
• 12:31 — Impact of industry retail changes
• 13:57 — Top-selling and trending patterns
• 17:16 — Everyday and art-to-wear adaptations
• 19:58 — Including traditional handwork in patterns
• 24:05 — Appropriation vs. appreciation
• 26:38 — Construction: square armholes, gussets
• 29:07 — Pattern-specific fitting advice
• 30:28 — Surprising personal makes
• 32:04 — Big Sky Riding Skirt explained
• 34:16 — Studio openings, fabric, and community engagement
• 35:15 — Plans for Folkware’s 50th anniversary

Tone & Takeaway

The conversation is warm, informative, and authentically passionate—a blend of practical sewing wisdom, appreciation for heritage, and optimism for the future. Molly Hamilton’s stewardship of Folkwear is rooted in respect for tradition, community, and creative possibility, making this episode a treasure for all sewing enthusiasts seeking inspiration beyond the standard pattern book.

For patterns, blog posts, and more, visit: folkwear.com
Show notes and past episodes: threadsmagazine.com