Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"

Episode 88: "Sewing Quilted Jackets" with Rae Cumby and Kerri Emerson

Release Date: April 1, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 88 of the "Sewing With Threads" podcast, host Carol Fraser engages in an enlightening conversation with Rae Cumby and Kerri Emerson, the creative minds behind the acclaimed book, Sewing Quilted Patchwork Jackets. Rae serves as the Creative Director at Fit for Art Patterns, while Kerri is the managing director, blending her passion for quilting with sophisticated garment crafting. Their collaboration bridges the gap between quilting enthusiasts and garment sewers, fostering a creative community eager to explore quilted fashion.

Inspiration and Genesis of the Book

Rae shares the inception of their book, highlighting their longstanding dedication to quilted jackets:

Rae Cumby [02:24]: "We have been working on quilted jackets since the very beginning of the company... I couldn’t find a pattern that I could get on a Lot of people fast and like a two-day class."

Faced with the challenge of connecting quilters to garment sewing, Rae sought to create a versatile pattern that was both user-friendly and aesthetically pleasing. Her initiative led to securing a grant from the Potomac Fiber Arts Guild, allowing her to delve deeper into quilting techniques tailored for jacket making.

Kerri adds to the collaborative effort:

Kerri Emerson [06:30]: "We really hope that both quilters and sewers will find it useful... They can start with the easiest projects in the book and then move on to more complicated piecing."

The book emerged as a solution to unify two distinct sewing communities, offering projects that cater to various skill levels and encouraging creativity through quilted garment design.

Target Audience and Ideal Readers

The book is meticulously crafted to appeal to both quilters hesitant to venture into garment making and sewers curious about incorporating quilting techniques. Carol notes:

Carol Fraser [06:17]: "Who do you envision as your ideal reader?... It seems like the sort of thing that could be a lot of fun for a sewing group to work together on."

Rae emphasizes inclusivity:

Rae Cumby [08:20]: "We have this children's version also included in the book... we would like for it to be a project for all levels of sewists."

Kerri echoes the sentiment, aiming to inspire beginners while challenging seasoned sewers to experiment with new techniques.

Project Structure and Progression

The book organizes projects from simple to complex, facilitating gradual skill development. Kerri explains:

Kerri Emerson [09:11]: "We definitely arrange them progressively, starting from the simplest... and each project builds on that with new skills."

Carol observes the book's accessibility:

Carol Fraser [08:12]: "Each project is geared so that the projects will be manageable... It seems like the sort of thing that could be a lot of fun for a sewing group to work together on."

Rae further details the progression:

Rae Cumby [13:05]: "We wanted it to be really logical... super user friendly."

This structured approach ensures that readers can seamlessly navigate through various projects, enhancing their quilting and sewing prowess.

Quilting Techniques and Recommendations

A significant portion of the discussion focuses on quilting methods suitable for jacket making. Rae highlights machine quilting:

Rae Cumby [19:11]: "These are all by machine... Each piece is quilted alone."

Kerri shares her preference for batting:

Kerri Emerson [25:43]: "The Quilter's Dream Bamboo is my favorite... it depends on what you're going to be wearing the coat for."

Carol inquires about basting techniques, to which Kerri responds:

Kerri Emerson [20:48]: "We mostly do pins... we're kind of like to be efficient and quick."

Rae introduces the Bernina Stitch Regulator (BSR):

Rae Cumby [30:36]: "The BSR allows you to free motion stitch without the feed dogs... it helps keep the stitch even."

This tool is particularly beneficial for maintaining consistent stitching during free-motion quilting, enhancing the overall quality of the garments.

Favorite Projects and Materials

When asked about favorite projects, both Rae and Kerri express particular fondness for the children's jackets due to their charm and simplicity:

Rae Cumby [35:57]: "They're so cute and adorable... making a quilted jacket is a lot of work and you feel strongly towards all of them."

Kerri highlights the versatility of using pre-cut fabrics like jelly rolls:

Kerri Emerson [28:32]: "If you want to get started, that is almost the easiest way to start... you're not actually doing any patchwork or quilting."

Regarding materials, Rae appreciates the variety and stability of cotton:

Rae Cumby [24:15]: "I love working with cotton... it's very consistent with the way people dress nowadays."

Kerri emphasizes the availability and ease of working with cotton fabrics, making them a staple choice for quilted jackets.

Care Instructions and Maintenance

Proper garment care is essential for longevity. Rae advises:

Rae Cumby [38:20]: "You can wash the silk batting... the fabrics were washed ahead of time."

Carol adds practical tips for maintaining texture and structure:

Carol Fraser [27:05]: "If you're going into a season that's a little bit warmer, you could use something as thick fine as a sheet of muslin."

These guidelines ensure that quilted jackets remain in pristine condition, balancing aesthetics with functionality.

Creative Insights and Aesthetic Appeal

The conversation delves into the artistic aspects of quilted jackets, emphasizing the interplay of colors and patterns:

Carol Fraser [40:37]: "There's color blocking and print blocking... it's a wonderful way to bring some joy into your sewing."

Rae and Kerri encourage sewists to experiment and personalize their creations, fostering a sense of individuality and creativity in each garment.

Conclusion

Carol wraps up the episode by celebrating the innovative approach Rae and Kerri have introduced to the sewing community. The book not only provides detailed instructions but also inspires sewists to explore their creativity through quilted fashion. Rae and Kerri express their excitement for the community to engage with their projects via social media, anticipating a surge of unique quilted jackets emanating from their instructional masterpiece.

As Carol aptly summarizes:

Carol Fraser [42:07]: "It's an extremely good exercise for your creativity... have fun with that and it will bring you to even greater success when you're making your jacket."

Rae and Kerri echo this enthusiasm, encouraging listeners to embrace the artistry and craftsmanship of quilted jacket making.

For more information or to purchase the book, visit Fit for Art Patterns or check your local bookstore. Don't forget to share your creations using the hashtag #SewingQuiltedPatchworkJackets to connect with the sewing community!