Transcript
Rena O (0:00)
Join us on an exclusive trip to London in May 2025. Highlights of this tour are a glovemaking masterclass with luxury designer Rena O, an embroidery workshop at Hand and Lock, a visit to a renowned theatrical costume house, and a guided tour of Savile Row. We'll also visit specialty fabric shops and enjoy afternoon tea at Fortnum and Mason. To find out more, go to threadsmagazine.com.
Carol Fraser (0:31)
Welcome to Sewing with Threads, the monthly podcast with the staff of Threads magazine. I'm your host, Carol Fraser, and my guests today are Rae Cumby and Kerri Emerson, creative sewists extraordinaire. Ray is the Creative Director of Fit for Art Patterns. She started her career in her home studio as a custom clothier and eventually earned the title of Baltimore's Best Tailor from Baltimore Magazine. She's a highly regarded teacher and designer and is the genius behind the endlessly versatile Tabula Rasa jacket pattern, which has long been a favorite of our readers and authors. She's also held leadership positions in the association of Sewing and Design Professionals. Carrie spent a decade as an assistant Attorney General in Maryland before making the transition to the arts. She's the managing director of Fit for Art Patterns, where she's been able to blend her longtime interest in quilting and patchwork with with her skill in crafting sophisticated garments. Her legal expertise is an essential part of the thriving pattern company. Kerri is also an active member of the association of Sewing and Design Professionals. You can find Ray and kerri online@fitforartpatterns.com welcome Ray and Carrie Hey.
Rae Cumby (1:42)
Hi.
Kerri Emerson (1:43)
It's nice to be here.
Carol Fraser (1:44)
It's nice to see you both. And the listeners should know that Carrie is coming to us from Baltimore and Ray is coming to us from her home in the south of France. Lucky me, where they're having eye wins and may may cut the power at any time. We'll talk quickly. I invited you both to join me because I wanted to talk to you about your new book, Sewing Quilted Patchwork Jackets, which came out last fall. From what I gather, this book was a labor of love and it's the culmination of years of collaborative work and even more years of friendship between the two of you. I'd love to know what inspired you to write the book.
Rae Cumby (2:24)
Well, we have been working on quilted jackets since the very beginning of the company, since really before the company. I had been asked to do some teaching. I could not, mostly for quilters and weavers, and I couldn't find a pattern that I could get on a Lot of people fast and like a two day class. And it turned out, you know, you were just fitting the whole time and never doing anything fun. And I had worked with some pants patterns that where you made mock ups and people could put them on and they had optional choices. And I thought, we need a pattern like this. And I had been playing around for myself with this kind of square armhole concept, which is very ancient design, but trying to get it a little sleeker and leaner and a little bit more modern. And I had come to a place where I was pretty pleased with it. So I got a grant from the Potomac Fiber Arts guild in Washington D.C. which I belong to, and studied with quilters and weavers how to make. I taught them how to make jackets. They taught me how to do the part of the process of creating the fabric for the jackets. And I just got really hooked. I just thought it was the quilting particularly. It was so user friendly to somebody who knew how to work a sewing machine. You could make just these really interesting garments with the square armhole design, which was what I had created for each of my collaborators in the grant. You can mix fabrics pretty cleanly. They aren't going odd places when they get under your arm or whatever. It's all pretty, pretty tidy. And I just really found it to be a lot of fun. And because we, with the pattern that we've developed, which then became that tabula rasa jacket and ultimately became a version of it, a little bigger, more overcoat size is the opus pattern in the book. It just became something we were doing every year, making one or two. There was always a couple in our repertoire when we did a show or a trunk show, and there were always people interested, but we really were struggling to get quilters connected to us. They didn't want to make garments and they didn't think they could, and they weren't interested. And they were worried about the fit. All those things legitimately sew. And so we have been trying to break down those barriers with the quilting community and the sewing community for a long time. When we met the people at Fox Chapel Press, they said, what would you like to write about? And I said, well, we think we have a pretty good track record with quilted jackets. And they said, wow, so hot in fashion right now. Such a fun concept. And, you know, we've been wishing we knew somebody who could write that book. And then we said, well, we think we can. So that's how it started. And I think that it was. I mean, Carrie can speak to this too. It was just amazing to try to put together 10 projects all at once. We had eight months to create the garments, put everything together, and so it was a lot of work. It was a lot of quilted jackets, it was a lot of quilting. But we still love it. I mean, I think it was really a fun experience and we're so pleased with the product. I think that the book is really. It's really fun and hopefully user friendly for anybody who might want to make their own quilted jacket.
