The Dutch Couture Academy, with Saskia ter Welle | Episode 78 - Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"

Summary

Summary of Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads" - Episode 78

Title: The Dutch Couture Academy, with Saskia ter Welle
Host/Author: Threads Magazine
Release Date: June 5, 2024

Introduction

In Episode 78 of the Threads Magazine Podcast, titled "The Dutch Couture Academy, with Saskia ter Welle", the hosts Carol Frazier and Janine Clegg engage in an insightful conversation with Saskia Trevella, the founder and director of the Dutch Couture Academy. This episode delves into Saskia’s journey in the world of haute couture embroidery, her teaching philosophy, and the unique offerings of the upcoming "Travel with Threads Netherlands Tour".

Guest Overview: Saskia Trevella

Saskia Trevella is a revered figure in the couture embroidery landscape. Based in Duisburg, a quaint town in the Netherlands, Saskia has transformed her lifelong passion for sewing into a thriving professional venture. With a rich background in haute couture embroidery, she trained at prestigious institutions like École Lesage in Paris and mastered the TR Pattern construction, a Japanese pattern-cutting technique. Saskia has showcased her couture collections internationally, including in Amsterdam, Bangkok, Paris, and London. Beyond her design work, she mentors aspiring designers worldwide, helping them channel their creativity into viable careers.

Saskia’s Background and Education

Saskia's journey into couture embroidery began in her youth:

Saskia (00:02:21):
"I started with sewing and embroidery from a very young age... I became a professional in sewing and pattern making while raising my four children."

After her children left home, Saskia fully committed to haute couture embroidery, studying at École Lesage. Her dedication led her to introduce and popularize these French techniques in the Netherlands, elevating the local fashion landscape.

Teaching Philosophy and Student Demographics

Saskia emphasizes inclusivity and motivation in her teaching approach. She believes that passion and dedication are paramount, regardless of a student’s background or prior qualifications.

Saskia (00:11:14):
"Everyone is welcome, everyone who is interested. Because I think if people are interested, they can learn anything."

Her student base primarily consists of fashion professionals seeking to enhance their skills, but she also attracts artists from various disciplines looking to incorporate embroidery into their work. Students typically range from ages 35 to 55, including those contemplating career shifts towards more creative endeavors.

Embroidery Techniques and TR Pattern Cutting

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around TR Pattern Cutting, a transformative technique that Saskia teaches:

Saskia (00:22:32):
"TR pattern technique is that you start with a simple basic pattern and you transform it by the actions that you take... inspired by origami techniques."

This method encourages designers to think beyond traditional two-dimensional patterns, fostering a deeper understanding of garment construction and enhancing creativity. Saskia credits Japanese designer Shingo Sato for pioneering these techniques, which emphasize hands-on learning and iterative improvement.

Saskia’s Collections and Collaborations

Saskia has presented her own couture collections internationally, often drawing inspiration from personal experiences and cultural elements:

"Come Fly with Me" at Amsterdam Fashion Week (2017): Inspired by her husband's aviation business and their travels across Europe and Africa.
Carnation Flower Collection: Launched post-COVID, symbolizing happiness, strength, and hope, this collection featured vibrant colors and creative designs.
Collaboration with a Dutch Painter in Paris: Currently preparing a collection inspired by cloud paintings from both France and the Netherlands.

Additionally, Saskia has participated in fashion weeks in Bangkok, creating collections centered around Thai silks. These events foster a collaborative atmosphere among international designers, emphasizing creativity over competition.

Saskia (00:20:12):
"They create their own vision on fashion and it is like one big family and is very inspirational for all the designers."

The Netherlands Tour Workshop Details

Threads Magazine has organized an exclusive Netherlands Tour scheduled for October 5th through 14th, 2024, limited to 20 participants. The highlight of this tour is a three-day workshop led by Saskia Trevella.

Workshop Breakdown:

Day One: Draping Basics
Focus on enhancing existing sewing techniques through draping, offering new perspectives on fabric manipulation and pattern adaptation.
Day Two: Silk Flower Creation
Instruction on making intricate silk flowers, suitable for corsages, hat embellishments, wristbands, and more. This technique aligns with current fashion trends emphasizing floral designs.
Day Three: Mannequin Embellishment with Lace
Participants will work on a half-scale mannequin, cutting and sewing lace pieces onto tulle to create unique decorative elements suitable for wedding dresses and evening wear.

Saskia (00:31:59):
"We are going to create our own vision on the mannequin with lace. And this will give you a beautiful base for wedding dresses, for evening wear..."

Preparation Tips:

Bring reading glasses with good magnification for detailed work.
Stay well-rested to fully engage in the intensive workshops.
Maintain an open mind to embrace new techniques and experiences.

Conclusion

Episode 78 of the Threads Magazine Podcast offers a comprehensive look into the world of haute couture embroidery through the lens of Saskia Trevella’s expertise. From her humble beginnings to her international collaborations and innovative teaching methods, Saskia exemplifies the fusion of tradition and modernity in sewing. The upcoming Netherlands Tour presents a unique opportunity for sewing enthusiasts to learn from a master craftsman, explore new techniques, and immerse themselves in a vibrant creative community.

Listeners are encouraged to reserve their spots for the tour by visiting tours.threadsmagazine.com and to learn more about Saskia and her academy through the show notes at threadsmagazine.com.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps:

Carol Frazier (00:02:04):
"Welcome Saskia."
Saskia Trevella (00:05:35):
"I need to get the word out."
Janine Clegg (00:12:49):
"If people are interested, they can learn anything."
Saskia Trevella (00:22:32):
"TR pattern technique is that you start with a simple basic pattern and you transform it by the actions that you take."
Saskia Trevella (00:26:46):
"He explains everything. This is the specific online training for the TR Masters and TR Supermasters training that he gives."
Saskia Trevella (00:31:59):
"We are going to create our own vision on the mannequin with lace."

This episode is a must-listen for sewing enthusiasts eager to elevate their craft, explore innovative techniques, and connect with a global community of passionate designers.

Transcript

Carol Frazier (0:00)

Carol, we must tell everyone about the trip we're planning and inviting you, our Threads audience, to take with us. October 5th through the 14th of 2024. We've put together an exclusive tour to the Netherlands to visit textile ateliers, museums and fabric shops.

Janine Clegg (0:17)

And as the main event, we've arranged a three day workshop with Saskia Trevella of the Dutch Couture Academy. She'll give Threads travelers in depth instruction in draping on a half scale form along with couture embellishment techniques. The trip is packed with activities that are sure to inspire you.

Carol Frazier (0:34)

To find out more about the Travel with Threads Netherlands Tour, go to tours.threadsmagazine.com the group is limited to 20 participants, so reserve your place now.

Janine Clegg (0:52)

Welcome to Sewing with Threads monthly podcast with the staff of Threads Magazine. I'm your host Carol Frazier and I'm joined today by my colleague Janine Clegg and our special guest, Saskia Tervella. Saskia is speaking with us from Duisburg, a small town in the Netherlands where she is the founder and director of the Dutch Couture Academy. She learned how to sew at a very young age and became professional while she was raising her four children and then turned sewing into a full time business after her children left the house. It was at that moment that she fully immersed herself in different couture techniques. Among other areas, she has specialized in haute couture embroidery which she studied at Ecole Lesage in Paris and TR Pattern construction, which is a Japanese pattern cutting technique. She has shown her own couture collections in Amsterdam, Bangkok, Paris and London. She teaches a range of unique embellishment and design techniques at her academy with a team of international guest lecturers. On top of this, Saskia is a sought after mentor for students, apprentices and designers from around the world who wish to turn their creativity into a career. Welcome Saskia.

Saskia Trevella (2:04)

Hi Carol. Thank you. Thanks for inviting me here.

Janine Clegg (2:07)

Well, we're delighted to have you here with us and we have a lot of things that we can talk to you about, but let's start out by finding out about your training and your education in fashion and couture embroidery and embellishment. How did you start out with that?

Saskia Trevella (2:21)

Now, I started with sewing and embroidery from a very young age. It was my natural field of interest and I developed it. And as a teenager I have sewn all my clothes myself. But during the years that I raised my children, I became a professional in sewing and pattern making and everything related. And gradually I grew more interested in the couture world because it works with beautiful materials. I love quality, I love beautiful design, I love attention to detail. And that all came together in couture. So I started to specialize in the techniques that make unique garments look precious, beautiful in different ways. Not only the fit and the way it is sewn, but also the embellishments that make it perfect for evening wear and special occasions. Yes. And it was like, only when my children left the house that I decided to do a real specialization in haute couture embroidery at Ecole Sage. And that made everything be seen in a different perspective. So this was a technique that is so unique and so French that although there were some people in the Netherlands practicing this type of art, they were not talking about it, not sharing their knowledge, not visible even in the fashion landscape. And I immediately, when I started, I knew, oh, I can bring this to the Netherlands. That would be cool, you know, like, really cool. So I started. I first went there to Paris to study a small introduction course to get a taste of it. And I fell in love with it completely. And to be able to go back and pay for the tuition and the stay and the travel, I decided to start teaching. So I already had my studio for, like 10 years. It was like a side thing, small, very small enough, nothing big. But I thought, okay, if I start teaching, I can earn the money to go back. And I didn't know by that time that this would not only greatly improve my learning curve. I learned so fast, so many details and so many things related to the embroidery, but it also started my business, really, in a huge way, because it was so specific, you know, so new. So people got excited easily.