Podcast Summary: The Value of a Flexible Sewing Plan, with Susan Khalje

Sewing With Threads, Episode 99
Date: March 3, 2026
Host: Carol Frazia
Guest: Susan Khalje, Contributing Editor, Threads Magazine

Episode Overview

This episode centers on the value of planning and flexibility in sewing, featuring renowned couture expert Susan Khalje. The conversation covers everything from designing patterns inspired by vintage garments, the creative process of working with luxury fabrics, teaching couture sewing, the transformative power of trims and details, and the distinctive inspiration Susan draws from Paris. It is a lively, technique-rich discussion designed to encourage all sewists—regardless of level—to approach projects thoughtfully yet with the mindset to adapt and pivot as challenges arise.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

Susan’s Latest Pattern Projects

• Vintage Evening Coat [02:00–05:39]

  • Inspired by a 1960s trapeze-shaped, black wool coat from a vintage collection.
  • Universally flattering design: “Everybody who tries it on, it fits and it looks great. And I don't quite know why.” (Susan, 02:25)
  • Unique collar construction, period details (union label), back pleat, and rhinestone bows.
  • Patterns developed with patternmaker Julian Cristofoli in Paris.
  • Video Instruction: Instead of lengthy written guides, Susan provides thorough video walk-throughs for each pattern.

• Upcoming Patterns [03:27–03:49]

  • Lace blouse in development.
  • Potential tuxedo jacket pattern: Emphasis on shawl collars, satin details, and considerations for working with specialty fabrics.

Approaching Patterns and Instruction

• Instruction Methodology [06:09–09:22]

  • Susan favors in-depth videos over written guides because couture methods are complex:
    “If there were written instructions, honestly, it would be a book.” (Susan, 06:12)
  • Videos range from introductory overviews to hours of hands-on demonstration.
  • Dedicated studio in a renovated country barn, equipped for filming and storing materials.

• Teaching & Workshops [07:25–08:16]

  • Students often use Susan's patterns in classes, especially complex pieces like the Parisian jacket with notched collar and gusset.
  • Flexibility in learning: “People often do [workshops].” (Susan, 07:26)
  • Fabric variation discussions and underlining techniques are part of video instruction.

The Time and Mindset of Couture Sewing

• Planning and Process [12:10–13:49]

  • The majority of couture sewing is preparation, not time at the machine.
    “Time on the machines [is] probably, I don't know, 2% of the whole process.” (Susan, 12:26)
  • Emphasizes forethought: “I think you have to have a plan… things always change … but I like to have it well figured out.” (Susan, 12:59)
  • Iterative problem-solving and experimenting with details (e.g., bound buttonholes).

• The Necessity of Flexibility [14:08–16:39]

  • Problems will arise: “That pivoting is something that I think you get very used to, because you know things are going to come up…” (Susan, 14:08)
  • Mindset development—growing from frustration to confidence in problem solving.
  • “If I bring a problem, you never get upset.” “That’s because I know that we can figure it out.” (Susan, 16:06)

Paris as Inspiration

• Old & New in Paris [16:42–19:25]

  • Paris’ seamless blend of heritage and innovation supports both tradition and creative reinvention.
  • Importance of patrimoine: “...the way they meld the past and the future kind of sinks in… That's a wonderful thing to perceive.” (Susan, 18:38)

• Fashion and Shopping Culture [19:36–23:55]

  • Great value on personal presentation; careful attention in selecting wardrobe pieces.
  • Memorable anecdote: The attention given to a customer finding the perfect hat.
  • Shopping is about quality, not quantity, with attentive service ensuring proportion and fit:
    “Shopping there would be more about quality rather than quantity.” (Susan, 21:25)
  • Stories of bespoke accessory makers, including a custom lace parasol for her daughter’s wedding.

The Creative Process with Luxury Fabrics

• Planning with Vicuna [24:18–29:22]
  • Article in progress for Threads on sewing with rare, luxurious vicuna wool.
  • Meticulous consideration before cutting or sewing: balancing the fabric’s precious nature with practical wearability.
  • Underlining experiments: Sandwiching flannel between two layers of silk organza to control bulk and avoid “drag lines.”
  • “You want this to be a luxury garment… but you don't want to make something that's so precious you're never going to wear it… So you have to kind of straddle that line.” (Susan, 24:54)

Details Make the Difference: Trims, Buttons, and Final Touches

• Transforming a Garment [31:36–33:55]
  • The right buttons and trims can elevate an otherwise plain jacket:
    “The jacket is… like an uniced cake. ...these trims and buttons go on and it just goes into the stratosphere…” (Susan, 33:33)
  • Susan stocks a vast array of trims and buttons for her classes; stresses the importance of variety and thoughtful selection for each individual's style.

Personal Sewing Stories: Successes and Challenges

• Most Worn Garment [29:35]
  • “I've got a black linen dress… you can dress it up, you can dress it down… That's an old standby.”
• Least Worn Garment [30:15]
  • A French-style jacket that never came together: “I just can't get the right trim and buttons for it.”
• Last-Minute Makes [34:02–36:10]
  • Mother-of-the-bride and groom outfits—left until the 11th hour due to prioritizing sewing for others.
  • Anecdotes about bustling a wedding dress on the day of the ceremony:
    “I had packed needles and thread in my purse because I knew we would be bustling this on the fly.” (Susan, 34:53)

Notable Quotes

• “We're not old, we're just vintage.” (Carol, 01:27)
• “You learn what to do... I've been trained, so I think I make it easy for my editors and the people behind the scenes.” (Susan, 10:57)
• “Couture, I'm afraid. But... it's a question of taking your time and not expecting to rush it through the machine and be done.” (Carol, 11:48)
• “When you start something, things always come up. They do, yeah. That's kind of part of the fantasy. That's part of the fun, that's part of the creative process getting going.” (Susan, 13:33)
• “What are the possibilities? ... Almost always something else you can do. ... You do have to have that bank of possibilities, I guess, in your head.” (Susan, 16:06)
• “You don't want to look like you have something that's better on a sofa.” (Susan on trim, 32:20)
• “You want it to be for you. ... You want to think about how you want to look, how you want to present yourself, how it will make you feel, the confidence it will give you.” (Carol & Susan, 24:13–24:17)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Vintage Coat & Pattern Development: 02:00–05:39
• Teaching Couture via Video: 06:09–09:22
• Time Spent on Preparation vs. Sewing: 12:10–13:49
• Developing Problem-Solving Skills: 14:08–16:39
• Parisian Inspiration & Shopping Culture: 16:42–23:55
• Working with Vicuna and Experimentation: 24:18–29:22
• Details and Trims in Couture: 31:36–33:55
• Personal Sewing Highlights & Last-Minute Makes: 29:35–36:10

Tone and Takeaways

The conversation is warm, humorous, and rich in technical wisdom. Susan Khalje’s passion for both the artistry and problem-solving sides of sewing comes through in every segment. She encourages sewists to plan, experiment, and accept inevitable pivots as part of the creative journey. The episode is both a practical guide for those interested in higher-level sewing and an inspiring narrative on how flexibility, creativity, and attention to detail can transform not only garments but the sewing experience itself.

For more, visit ThreadsMagazine.com and look out for Susan’s upcoming article on vicuna and information on in-person tours and classes.