**Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads"

Episode 82: "Wisdom From 2 Pattern Testers"
Release Date: October 1, 2024**

Introduction

In Episode 82 of the Threads Magazine Podcast: "Sewing With Threads", host Janine Clegg engages with two seasoned pattern testers, Joanna Marmore and Tommasa Jimenez, to delve into the intricacies of pattern testing, sewing techniques, and the evolving landscape of sewing patterns. This episode offers rich insights for sewing enthusiasts, whether they're beginners or experienced sewists.

Guest Introductions

Janine Clegg kicks off the episode by introducing the guests:

• Tommasa Jimenez (00:54): Based in northern New Jersey, Tommasa has been a Threads pattern tester since 2011. She began sewing in the early 1970s using Big Four patterns and advanced her skills in the early 2000s at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. Tommasa is also a brand ambassador for Minerva Fabrics and contributes to the popular Instagram account SewOver50, which boasts over 52,000 followers.

• Joanna Marmore (00:54): Hailing from British Columbia, Canada, Joanna has been testing patterns for Threads since 2003. Her sewing journey began with doll clothes and progressed to creating graduation and wedding dresses during her teenage years. Joanna gained valuable experience working part-time in a department store's fabric department, where she sewed display garments for fashion shows (02:13).

The Importance of Pattern Testing

Janine highlights the critical role of pattern testers in ensuring garment quality for Threads readers (04:24). She emphasizes that pattern testers follow specific guidelines and complete evaluation questionnaires to provide accurate pattern descriptions.

Tips for Effective Pattern Testing

Joanna Marmore (05:39) advises sewists to use fabrics that closely resemble the recommended materials when testing patterns:

"If you're testing something, try to get a fabric that's as close to what you want the finished product to be made of."

For example, testing a silk satin pattern on a similar weight fabric helps in assessing the garment's fit and drape accurately.

Tommasa Jimenez (06:35) emphasizes the importance of meticulous pattern evaluation:

"I always look at the line drawing and compare it to the pattern itself. Sometimes there are discrepancies between the illustrations and instructions."

She advises checking seam alignments, instructions clarity, and ensuring that illustrations match the written guidelines.

Understanding Sewing Terminology: Walking the Seams

Janine inquires about "walking the seams," prompting Tommasa to explain (07:40):

"You walk the seams by placing the pattern pieces together and ensuring that the seam lines match in length and shape."

This technique ensures that pieces like pant legs or sleeves align correctly, preventing fit issues in the final garment.

Insights from Years of Pattern Testing

Joanna Marmore (08:58) shares her journey of learning to sew through Vogue patterns, highlighting how designer patterns introduce unique techniques:

"I realized, oh, there's more than one really good way to do something."

She recounts a pivotal moment with a designer jacket collar that showcased an unconventional construction method, broadening her sewing perspective (10:08).

Tommasa Jimenez (12:30) discusses the inevitability of errors in patterns:

"Everybody makes mistakes. Indie patterns may have errors or missing information that the Big Four handle meticulously."

She shares an anecdote about a flawed red silk halter top pattern that led to customer dissatisfaction due to technical oversights (14:26).

Resources for Overcoming Pattern Testing Challenges

When faced with problematic patterns, Tommasa recommends Vogue Sewing as a comprehensive resource (16:38):

"Vogue Sewing is very thorough and helpful."

Joanna (17:06) complements this by suggesting referential testing:

"I'll refer back to another pattern to see how similar features were constructed."

This approach helps in identifying and rectifying discrepancies or oversights in pattern instructions.

Defining a Good Pattern

Tommasa (18:41) outlines her criteria for a good pattern:

"Design should be on-trend and functional, with thorough instructions that even beginners can follow."

Joanna (19:37) adds that a good pattern maintains garment shape while allowing for a comfortable fit:

"A well-designed pattern will still give you shape while it's being loose."

She emphasizes the importance of details like darts and seam allowances in ensuring a flattering and structured fit.

Evolving Trends and Inclusivity in Patterns

The guests discuss the shift towards more inclusive and varied patterns:

Joanna (35:15) appreciates the move towards inclusive sizing:

"There's more style for plus-size women, and that's a really great trend."

Tommasa (33:03) notes the rise of PDF patterns, expanded size ranges, and increased representation in models:

"Online tutorials and more mature sewists being represented are positive changes, though there's still progress to be made."

Favorite Pattern Makers and Fabrics

Joanna (24:04) praises Murphy Patterns, an Italian company known for their detailed and designer-like patterns, and Sewing Workshop for casual designs.

Tommasa (26:15) favors Burda Style for its trendy designs and comprehensive magazines, despite the complexity of their pattern sheets.

When it comes to fabrics, both guests express their preferences:

• Tommasa (29:49): Prefers wools, cottons, and silks.
• Joanna (29:56): Enjoys linen, cotton, and linen-cotton blends, particularly appreciating their softness and ease of use.

Personal Projects and Future Plans

Tommasa (31:24) shares her interest in quilting, specifically a quilted jacket with a clean finish, inspired by a Berta Style magazine feature.

Joanna (32:50) mentions her ongoing projects with timeless patterns and plans to remake over 30-year-old designs using linen fabrics.

Conclusion

Janine wraps up the episode by expressing gratitude towards Joanna and Tommasa for their invaluable contributions and insights:

"We are very grateful for all the work that you do for us and I think our readers and our audience appreciate it as well."

Listeners are encouraged to engage with the podcast by sending comments, questions, and suggestions to threadsmagazine.com and to subscribe on their preferred platforms.

Notable Quotes

• Joanna Marmore (00:02:13):
  "So when we started trying on outfits, I said to the coordinator, I said, well, why don't you let me sew an outfit and then I'll be the commentator."

• Tommasa Jimenez (06:35):
  "I always look at the line drawing and compare it to the pattern itself."

• Joanna Marmore (08:58):
  "I learned to sew from Vogue patterns. My attitude always was, oh, a human being did this, so I can do it."

• Tommassa Jimenez (12:30):
  "Everybody makes mistakes. When you're testing a pattern, you look for those mistakes."

• Joanna Marmore (19:37):
  "A well-designed pattern will still give you shape while it's being loose."

• Tommasa Jimenez (26:15):
  "Burda Style... they're very good about giving you guidelines and posts."

Key Takeaways

• Pattern Testing Essentials: Use appropriate fabrics, meticulously follow instructions, and compare patterns with illustrations to ensure accuracy.

• Learning Resources: Vogue Sewing serves as an excellent guide for both beginners and experienced sewists.

• Quality Patterns: Good patterns balance trendiness with functionality, provide clear instructions, and maintain garment structure without being overly loose or sloppy.

• Evolving Industry Trends: Increased inclusivity, expanded size ranges, and diverse representations are shaping modern patterns, though there's room for improvement.

• Personal Growth: Long-term pattern testing enhances sewing skills, fosters creativity, and deepens understanding of garment construction.

This episode serves as a treasure trove of knowledge for sewing enthusiasts, highlighting the meticulous work of pattern testers and offering practical advice to enhance sewing projects.