
to Throwing Fits on Substack. Our interview with Nicolas Gabard is lovable and desirable. Nicolas—founder of Husbands—was in town for his trunk show and kind enough to swing by and school us on how tailoring used to be for losers, his university...
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Aaron D.
Throw gang. We're joined by the suiting sultan, the lapel overlord, the titan of tailoring, the made to measure maestro composing the clothing Calm Claude how he flexing Debussy he puts the riz in Parisian. His suits hit from the front and back Eiffel Tower ops must be French. How they whine about his cheese and bread. Oh, you're not with the second Aaron D. Small. How about you have seconds on these nuts? The baron of bells, the bespoke big boss, the follicle flow pharaoh the shirting shaman Calm Jen Hemsen how he's dressing these frogs Must work at Poulet Free Kentucky how he's serving up these two pieces the brand is so money got him hugs and bands calm COVID 19 how his looks are killing 70s must be a French baker because he a bad getter. Founder of Husbands, Nicola Gabel. Nicola, how the hell are you?
Nicola Gabel
I'm fine, but with this guy, you know, I don't know him. I want to be this guy.
Aaron D.
Yeah, that's you.
Jen Hemsen
Your. Your one note to us was easy on the slang and you just hit him right off the top.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah. Nick, thank you for joining us.
Nicola Gabel
No, that's my pleasure. Yeah, you know, you. You're a busy, busy man. Fantastic job. Thank you, guys. You know, you know, closing. When I launched Husbands 13 years ago, and especially classic menswear was totally lost.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
What I say is classic menswear, in a way, was for you, loser. You know? Yeah. And so we started. So this market becomes so complex and sophisticated that people lose all the information. So we need to rebuild a kind of fully prescription ecosystem with new journalism, with new blogger, with the forum, with influencer, with new journalists, with podcasters bringing new information. So we are part of the same ecosystem brands. We need to have to do a great job with the product and the experience we offer. But we really need that you guys, you know, give information, be pedagogical in a way because.
Aaron D.
Whoa, whoa, whoa. Please use English words. We understand.
Nicola Gabel
Don't get me wrong. You know, you are not serious and you did this in a really good way.
Jen Hemsen
Thank you.
Nicola Gabel
But we really need, you know, the market now is pretty swear and sportswear. You know, in the 70s, the market was huge. So it was really easy to dress because your father dress, you know, that your teacher dress, your boss dress, the actors you liked dress. Everybody was dressing. So, you know, it was really easy. You have just to copy.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
No, and it was really difficult to dress in jeans. Yeah, you need to, you know, catch very good vibes and it was difficult now, you know, when I started husbands, you know, really terroring was for losers. Yeah. Yeah, you said it. I, you know, I, I always been a loser.
Aaron D.
There's still losers out there. Let's be clear.
Nicola Gabel
There were, you know, in economical terms, friction to enter in the market.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So if you want to. To have a consumption, you need to understand the products.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So you help us to understand and.
Aaron D.
That'S why we're here.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
We. We can only kind word that I can bring.
Aaron D.
And that's the end of the podcast.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Thank you, Nicholas. We just hope to be as you.
Nicola Gabel
Name of your podcast. This is the university of cool.
Aaron D.
We're only doing this podcast that one day I can afford to buy myself a husband's pinstripe suit such as like what you're wearing because this is my next. My grill. Honestly, I can already afford it. Kind of this.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. Thank you. But you.
Jen Hemsen
No, thank you.
Nicola Gabel
We need to find. You know, I tried to.
Aaron D.
I tried to make an appointment for the trunk show, but it all sold out.
Nicola Gabel
Price. Price is important.
Aaron D.
Sure.
Nicola Gabel
But you know, we had a lot of discussion about our range price. I know it's expensive.
Aaron D.
It's not bad.
Jen Hemsen
It's relative because it's value.
Nicola Gabel
Full canvas.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
British fabric made by hand with such. Such obsession about details, you know, style. We know that it's a kind of aggressive price. I know that people won't understand this, but, you know, believe me, you know, the brands we, we cross, you know, factories, you know, double or triple the price of our products.
Aaron D.
What's like an average.
Nicola Gabel
What we want to. I had a discussion with a journalist and say, yeah, that's really difficult because we will really want to be aggressive on the price and say, yeah, but keep this price because, you know, you will keep the interesting guy in the room.
Jen Hemsen
Absolutely creative.
Nicola Gabel
You know, when you afford thousand, you know, euro shoots, you will lose all. You will lose all the interesting guy. So I'm super happy because at the end of the day, our community is growing with, you know, the cool guys like you. So save money. Save money and.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, exactly.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Stop buying $9 cortados such as like this, for example. Before we get. We're going to talk about all that in great detail, in great depth. But before we get into all things husbands and all things Nicola Lawrence, we'd.
Jen Hemsen
Like just like to do a little fit check. Are you wearing all husbands today? Head to toe.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Okay. Okay. What about the glasses and the watch?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah. The Ton Cartier and the GMM because, you know, is doing a great job. By the way, we are doing their uniform for the cell guys.
Aaron D.
Oh wow.
Nicola Gabel
Opening, you know, they are really successful. We are really happy. And you know, Jerome told his team, you know, he want to have the. The cell guys dress with, you know, the great style. So he wanted to have best style cell guy in the world.
Aaron D.
Of course.
Nicola Gabel
So he has already, you know, the best sunglasses. So he asked us to make the uniform. So we are really happy with this special collaboration.
Aaron D.
And what about your coat and the scarf?
Nicola Gabel
Everything is commercial. Yeah, yeah. So this is not super old coat. We call this the long single breasted. We have a name for off of patterns but it's super long and the fabric is a kind of heavy, heavy twill. And it probably is six years old. Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
It felt beautiful when I was hanging it up for you.
Nicola Gabel
The good feel. I like it. And that's the magic of esbands, you know, even so we designed these patterns maybe seven years ago and I still love it.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
It's not about only building, you know, novelties on new patterns. I start to love again my old silhouettes, you know, because the beginning of husbands was full of Haiti. You know, it was 2012 so it was really rock silhouette, skinny, skinny pants, high waisted, double crusted. But you know, and then we started to move into the 70s. Then we recently move into the 80s and the 90s. I know that a lot of people see ourselves, you know, know stick a bit. A bit in the 70s, definitely. All the times of the men were, you know, the 30s, the roaring 20s, you know, crazy with Charlie Chaplin, you know. Yes. So such a great mustache. But of course, yeah, 70s is a big inspiration because 70s is the last day of the tailoring.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So this is the last day people was wearing tailoring in nightclub men, we.
Aaron D.
Many suggest a fly.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
Now it's just sweatshirt.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Athleisure of God essentials. What about your socks?
Nicola Gabel
I like it, but maybe we will talk about it.
Aaron D.
Let's do the fit check. What about your socks?
Nicola Gabel
So this is also we did in a capsule collection. So it's really high. It's a mix of nylon on wool, Australian wool, vanilla. The nylon is super resistant. I don't like and red potent wool. I like when you have nylon because it's resilient, solid and you can even wear it in summer. I don't like cotton. Cotton socks.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
So, you know, that's a bit obsession for my socks. Then I have these glossy boots from go to.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah. The Best.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, this is big heel.
Jen Hemsen
So how big is the heel?
Nicola Gabel
It's 5 centimeters.
Aaron D.
Does every husband shoe have a big heel? Cuz Eduardo. Eduardo was trying to get us to try some shoes on last time we were there and it was like dog six feet tall.
Jen Hemsen
These are high heels.
Nicola Gabel
I love being two meters. Yeah. You know, a lot of people are doing great job doing super classic oxfords and Lawford. So what's the point for us to do this? Yeah, what we want is to build some, you know, more playful footwear. So we started with Chelsea boots because again, that's, you know, the idea of husbands was in two in 2012. To see that in a way the functional menswear, the functional shooting was dead. So we needed to rebuild something new. And so when you have a double breasted shock stripe, maybe a single breasted like this, you know, pinstripes, it's really banker suits. It's really savage, Rosie. But suddenly, just with the adding of this, Chelsea Boots become Brian Ferry or rock and roll. Yeah, exactly. Just that. The same outfit.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
But the symbolic value you are putting in the shoots is suddenly, you know, with a kind of redesignability, with heaviness.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Recontextualizing it.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, exactly. That's the point. So of course we have some classic offers with a buckle, which is really beautiful. Yeah. Quiet. Because of course we have banker and lawyers. So you need to propose this kind of things. And then we have this kind of beautiful offers coming from the 80s 90s. You know, the, the best brand doing this was Bali. So Bally was a Switzerland brand, Sweet sweets brand. And they are doing this beautiful, you know, unreally fragile in a way. Not that good. No. You know, the craft wasn't so good.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
The idea was, let's do the same, but with a beautiful craft.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
With a beautiful level. So of course we have these heels and we have this small details because, you know, we want to have fun.
Aaron D.
Of course. And what about the Le Sue Vetmont, the panties?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, you know, that's classic brief, you know, that's Calvin Klein brief. Sorry to be so classic, but no, it's.
Jen Hemsen
Don't apologize.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. So. But you know, at the end of the day, I would like to go in this market, you know. Oh, wow. Yeah. Pajamas, you know. Yeah, yeah. Because that's, you know, Charvet, you know, Charve, they have such an incredible offer. But that's super expensive. The city is crazy. And again, we would like to create, you know, our own vision on this part and you know, maybe change a little bit. Reliance to have something more relevant. Because again, husbands is not a bit about copy and past. Just. Just copycat is try to understand what a product was, was the. The meaning of a product in the period it existed and then make it relevant again for a new. So it's really the idea I don't like when you know, okay, some people are, you know, copy their past and that's beautiful, but that's not the point of. Right.
Aaron D.
So how are you going to understand and research underwear from the 70s? It couldn't have been that. It couldn't have been that comfortable. Which is the sous vide mall from the 70s?
Nicola Gabel
Oh yeah, yeah. It was full of polyester and lice. No, you know, we. We are again, everybody is seeing us as a 70s brands because we started to be well known without this collection. But again, I like all the times, all the periods of the menswear, believe me, you know, how many in the 80s? It's crazy. You know, Marta Margiela, Helmut Lang, Jill Sanders in the 90s, Comme des Gaston in the 90s. It's crazy.
Aaron D.
Right now are you focused on the 90s just personally?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And I think even more maybe with the picture and the visual identity. I'm really a fond of what Marta Margiela and Gil Sender Helmut Lang did. You know, it was really discreet. It was, you know, after the 80s we were flamboyant. They started to have a really low key communication and I like this kind of do it yourself communication. Really fans in. So I think we will move forward in this direction. So really 90s for the communication. But of course the 90s was crazy because 90s is all about the face. I don't know if you know this the British magazine. Iconic, crazy. And it was, you know, you know, Breedport was full of rage. So it was, you know, Pulp. It was no other. It was Oasis. Yeah, you have a stone versus all. This guy was, you know, had a beautiful style. You had new order, you know, you know, a lot more Receive Smith more 80s. But so it was the 90s in the UK was really, really interesting. And suddenly with one of my young customers. I'm totally obsessed by skate culture. You know, the street, the skating culture.
Aaron D.
Yeah, okay.
Nicola Gabel
I'm totally obsessed. Yeah. Sketch. Have you said this in a skate?
Jen Hemsen
Skateboarding. Skate.
Nicola Gabel
Skateboarding.
Jen Hemsen
Skateboarding, skateboarding.
Nicola Gabel
And I'm, I'm, you know, I started getting it. I start say, okay, I understand in the 90s, this guy, the street cred. That's insane. You know, so I'm watching, you know, in My hotel. I'm watching so many videos. Really discover your culture, guys. The guy of, you know, Jim Greco. And who is this guy?
Aaron D.
The piss drunks.
Jen Hemsen
Okay. Baker skateboards. Okay. That's very cool.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. The style, you know, the earth that, you know, they are. That's so courageous.
Aaron D.
Did you see any Chad Muska?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. And I started to understand, you know, the. The power of Supreme.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Because you. When you are in Paris, you don't get it. When. When you are in New York, you get it. Yeah. Supreme makes sense. I understand now.
Jen Hemsen
Context is king.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Is there an era that you think was terrible in suiting and tailoring?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, yeah, of course.
Aaron D.
What was the worst? What was like the low point for shooting and tailoring?
Nicola Gabel
Sorry.
Aaron D.
In the 20th, 20th, 21st century. Thoughts?
Nicola Gabel
No, I would say, you know, till the 70s, craft was beautiful. You know, the making was beautiful. So it was really easy to dress. I would say in a kind of paradox that the last being thing in touring was Hedy Sliman at Durham. So it's 2002 till 2000. I would say nine.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, 2000. Because then he left for Saint Laurent. And that build and some, you know, even more skinny silhouette that so suddenly to was relevant again. But doing this, you know, he managed to do this with, you know, body which, you know, doesn't exist. But I know these guys because I address them. Well, it's.
Aaron D.
It's your body.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
You Sam Hein. That's it.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, it's model. Very limited.
Nicola Gabel
It's, you know, tall guy. You know, one. You know, it's 1 meter and 95 centimeters, super thin, super tall, 100 pounds. Everything works on him. You know, I had this experience with one of my customers. You know, we have some golden rules for tailoring, you know, for the length. If you are tall, we need to increase the length. So then if this guy tried a super short jacket, it was super skinny. So it was short and it was a small size. And yeah, it was. That's fantastic.
Jen Hemsen
Tom Brown.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. Yeah. But, yeah. So I started to understand the way that Eddie was working. And it was about fantasy. It was about dreaming. And that's the way of fashion. Small boys tailoring. His real body, you know, we cannot deal with, you know, dream. Yeah, your body, that shoulders, that's muscle. Especially with American customer who are. Yeah, they're working out. You exercise. You know, I even didn't ask the question because everybody has crazy back.
Jen Hemsen
You know, we got crazy back in this country.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah. But, you know, in French. No one is exercising.
Aaron D.
Well, everyone's walking in France. We're just driving.
Nicola Gabel
So, you know. So in 2005, Heidi was full of rage. You. You are too young. You are too young. Guys. It was crazy of suddenly everything seems outdated.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
You know, the big guys on the runaway. Yeah. You know, it was so ridiculous. So in, you know, in a gl and I, you know, suddenly it was full of rage. And then of course the market which is. Which is always lazy. Yeah. Copy this silhouette. Of course this time for real body. And then it ruins the silhouettes. It was a nightmare. And then, you know when I said that tearing was for use. Loser. It's this kind of terror.
Jen Hemsen
Right, Right.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. You can short jacket, skinny pants. But when you are, you know, a guy of a super muscular, a regular guy. Ridiculous.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
It's a kind of stupid costume for kids. Yeah. So dress for your body. So I believe that the worst time of toroying was just after the revolution of Eddie.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Really, you know, tearing was in the radar again. It was sexy again. But in the same time, the market made a really bad, you know, interpretation of what he did in a really fantastic.
Jen Hemsen
Over corrected.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah. And since then, we are still in this kind of skinny pants, low rise. You know, I had in hands, you know, the. Because in Paris right now there was a guy who has a full collection of this stuff of two audio. So, you know, all the fans are crazy. They broke me. The suit and that's. The fabric is not that crazy.
Jen Hemsen
No.
Nicola Gabel
But the cut is, you know, spot on. Did you put it on? It's really good. The studio was really good. You know, the attach the position of a first button.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
The length of a jacket. You know that the guy knew what he was doing.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Aaron D.
Did you put it on?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Did it fit?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
See, there you go.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
It was walking clothes.
Nicola Gabel
It was long jacket. I believe this stuff was for the runaway.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
I don't think it was, you know, the classic credit where. No, but you know, the making was beautiful. You know, my. My only concern was the fabric which was, you know. But that's not ad obsession to use, you know, bad fabric at a crazy good silhouette.
Jen Hemsen
Bad fabric.
Nicola Gabel
Yes. Yeah.
Aaron D.
Well, hopefully he's not listening. Yeah. Nicola, speaking of designers, as we move from the Fitch. Oh, you're drinking a top of Chico sparkling water. Low cone gas of that guess. Do you know how much you look like Yves Saint Laurent? No. Really? You don't see this?
Jen Hemsen
You're wearing the same glasses.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I play with this image but you know, to be honest, no.
Aaron D.
You know, are we just making that up as Americans, you know.
Nicola Gabel
But you know, I say no and I have a Eve.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, come on.
Aaron D.
No, no, no.
Nicola Gabel
You flatter me because, you know, maybe, you know. Yeah, I think.
Aaron D.
Yeah, a little bit.
Jen Hemsen
Right? A little bit.
Nicola Gabel
No. Yeah. But you know, I, I. There's no comparison. This guy is a genius. He's a couture. He's a designer. You know, even if since I'm a kid, I'm totally obsessed by, by clothes and by, by fabrics and cuts, you know, I have always this imposter syndrome.
Aaron D.
Really?
Nicola Gabel
Still, still, I'm not, I'm not a couture. I know, I know the designer. I have just this obsession of style who come from, you know, my culture with movies and you know, all the music. I love when I was a teenager. So it, I build my culture like this. I still watch a lot of movie.
Aaron D.
Husband's named after a movie.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. The Cassavetes movie. Yes. Yeah, the Cassavetes movie.
Aaron D.
How many stars?
Jen Hemsen
You know, don't worry about it.
Nicola Gabel
You, you are you already. You watch it?
Jen Hemsen
Yes. It's, it's okay.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, don't fly.
Jen Hemsen
I like other John Castle better.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, that, you know, killing of Chinese book. I wasn't. What? Oh, I was movie more in, you know, so this is the snobbish moment. Let's go French novice moment. Of course, I was more into faces and shadows. So more is the experimental work. This more narrative work was not less my thing. But when I launch husbands, you know, everything has been, you know, registered, you know, in the trademark. You are all the name as registered.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
And I wanted to dress real guys with Wrinkle Story Mistress. It was a kind of, it came in opposition with all these beautiful models super young in Prada advertising. So you know, my call to action to this is it's near zero.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I saw this beautiful guy, but you know, I am, you know, mid age guy. I don't want this. I can understand. This picture is not for the man. Is for the woman.
Jen Hemsen
Right? Sure.
Nicola Gabel
Tell them so.
Aaron D.
But, but does not being a designer and not being like too exclusionary and too like snobbish, is that almost, is that attractive for the customer where anybody can walk into husbands and feel like they're going to come out a better person, a better dressed guy versus like walking into a high end fashion store that could be more intimidating.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
So is you, is you because you are an attorney and you had an advertising agency and you kind of you don't consider yourself a designer. Is that helpful to build the brand and attract an audience?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, of course, of course. Because. So I'm going to finish with Husband. Yes, please, the show is yours. And yeah, and you know, one of my friend called me and say, you know, I just watched this movie, you know, your husband's movie, and this is exactly the guys you want to dress right. You know, that story, you know, going to a funeral, you know, crying, three regular guys, mistress, the wife, you know, you can imagine.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So suddenly I say, okay, you know, I checked and it was available.
Jen Hemsen
There you go. Yeah, the lawyer and you had the due diligence then.
Nicola Gabel
So let's get back to your question. Oh, yeah, yeah. Not coming from fashion, in a way, give me this kind of imposter syndrome. But also I look at things in a really naive way. So it's really what people are doing this. It's not, you know, fashion are doing this forever. So I need to follow the path. It's really questioning everything because I'm new and super naive. So when I launch Husband, I say, what people are doing this. I don't want to do this. I do. I know. So everything is challenged at Husbands. Nothing is obvious because probably of my maverick position in this kind of family or community, you know, fashion designer, they have the credibility because they learn fashion. They can sketch. I cannot sketch. That's really limited for me. So I need to show picture. I need to put words on the silhouette I want to build. It's really limited. So, yeah, it's in a way, it's really frustrating, but in a way, it's also super motivated because, you know, again, you move forward with no boundaries and knowledge. And of course, I spent so much money in closing before, you know, that's very old for the. I launch Husband because, you know, you're broke. Yeah, I was broke. All my money. And I remember I told, you know, I told everybody, you know, no, no, that's not a new suit. That was a Bluetooth. And it was a big bespoke shoot, you know, €4,000. Oh, no, that's the blue shoot. Better.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
So you had a problem.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
You're lying to your loved ones.
Nicola Gabel
A lot of people, you know, I'm liar. So suddenly people are discovering, you know, my past.
Jen Hemsen
The first step is admitting a problem. There you go.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. But no, again, when I launch Husbands, I had all this full experience with bespoke and fashion, and I started to think about. About a new experience, a new retail experience. So welcoming, people giving Them joy, give them, you know, a lot of confidence. Listen to them, you know, with no bad words, you know, because people are coming here at the trunk show. You're going to say, yeah, I knew. I know nothing. Yeah, but you know, we all started knowing nothing true. So there's no bad words. And you want to, you know, I'm totally agnostic with, you know, shoes. You want to wear it with sneakers. Yeah, that's okay. No, no, no. Believe me. Yeah, be really nice. So it's you again.
Aaron D.
But Sam Hyde got a bad experience in the store.
Jen Hemsen
We fixed that.
Aaron D.
We fixed.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, I remember. I remember when I, when I heard the podcast, there is this, you know, crisis meeting and say, yeah, but what happened, guys?
Aaron D.
To balance that I went into husbands and Eduardo immediately was like, oh my. Like, treated me like world teams. Like, by the way, I'm also a fan of the podcast. And now whenever I'm in Paris, whenever, like, you guys get new stuff in these texts me like, yo, we got the new stuff. I know you like this shirt.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
I know you like this trench coat. Yeah. If you're interested, I'll hold it for you. So the service is a one.
Jen Hemsen
Speaking of overcorrecting.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. But we really need, we really need to be always on, you know, but.
Aaron D.
The retail experience is. Yeah, retail must visit.
Jen Hemsen
Yes, absolutely. Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And retail experience, it's a never ending story.
Jen Hemsen
Right?
Nicola Gabel
You need really to be on the line. You need to be there every day. You need to find new, new communication. You know, that's really. You need to be obsessed.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
And you, you know, I mean, at the end of the day, you really need to love people.
Jen Hemsen
Absolutely.
Nicola Gabel
And that's about husbands. You know our mission statement. Yeah. It's to make people happy again. You know, dressing with beautiful fabric.
Aaron D.
Is that the secret to such amazing retail environment?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, yeah, you too kind. Because, you know, we know. You know, sometimes I'm really frustrating and I think, you know, the sale And Julian, my CO2, I think maybe the secret is built on different points. The first point is that we have a clear vision of what we are doing and why this husband is here. To give the people the desire to grace again and doing this feel beautiful, confident. We want to bring desire of clothing in people's minds again. So all the rest is only tools. So you need to have this kind of red thread in all the company. It starts with the studio. We want to create this fantastic. We have to bring a new vision for classic menswear. We need to have a point of view. Why we need to have this peacock, for example, we made a peacock. It was mix between, you know, U.S. navy peacock of the 30s and 70s, peacock of St. Laurent. So we build our own because. And say, yeah, let's try to make it relevant. So we create this article on the website explaining why was the peacock. And, you know, we bring some information, right? New words, new utility. And so it starts from a studio, the communication and then the cell guy. A clear vision of what? The picot.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
The husband's picot.
Jen Hemsen
The why.
Nicola Gabel
So you. If you have this clear vision of your mission statement. Statement. You know, this is not just the vision of Nicolae Gaba. It's all the team of husbands, you know, moving in the same direction.
Aaron D.
How big is the team now?
Nicola Gabel
20 people.
Jen Hemsen
It's crazy.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
That's a lot of husbands.
Nicola Gabel
I'm super happy. I'm. I'm really. I'm. I'm you. I'm lucky because of this young team, you know, super.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Invested, you know, super empowered. You know, who's your.
Aaron D.
Who's your favorite?
Nicola Gabel
I cannot say. You know, this is, of course, Eduardo, every. Everyone have his own vision. They are so dedicated to the brand. So, you know, I'm super lucky. Of course. Sometimes it's really frustrating because, you know, we are doing fashion. It's, you know, that's. That's really difficult. The production is difficult because you experiment. So many difficult times and so many frustration. But, you know, at the end of the day, I'm super lucky because, you know, every morning I'm super happy. Don't know if they are. I'm sure they are. I am.
Jen Hemsen
You're happy. That's what matters.
Nicola Gabel
The boss is happy.
Aaron D.
So just don't email them after hours.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah. And they keep you young, right? You said they keep you young.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, exactly. You know, I. I often say that husband is my past. So my obsession with the past, you know, my old movies, my old music. But it husbands is this. It's super boring. And this is the encounter in a kind of so other French snobbish moment, kind of number two dialectical hegel moment. So that's the galactical moment, you know, shift between me and I. I would say their relevancy, their modernity. They are, you know, in real life.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Sometimes life is too rude for me because of my past. So I try to escape and they are there. And sometimes, you know, I put some product and say, that's the point, Nicola. It doesn't make any sense for me to, you know, So I think it's me with the team which create this kind of beautiful result of something relevant for young guy.
Jen Hemsen
Absolutely.
Nicola Gabel
So yeah, first mission statement. Yeah, clear mission statement. So the cell guy know what they are doing then I would say treated people like you want to be treated.
Jen Hemsen
So you the golden rule.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. You know, save a truth. If it doesn't work, it doesn't work.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
If it doesn't match everybody, you have to sell the truth, guys in a really, you know, diplomatic way. But you know, at the end of the day, people ask to get out of the store with a beautiful outfit. So we need to find the perfect combination, the perfect balance. And definitely sometimes we need to change people's minds. People want the double breasted super white trousers and they need to to have a single breasted with a, you know, a tap roots because that's better on their body. So for me you need to treat people like you want to be treated. I would say then the obsession of the centimeter, you know, tailoring is about centimeters.
Aaron D.
Right.
Nicola Gabel
I don't know about fashion system. Fashion is about, you know, you can fantasy, you know, but again it's real body. So one centimeters, it's, you know, the sum up of all stuff. Yeah. You know, the way the first button is attached, the padding here, you know, the length of a jacket, the length of the back of a jacket. Everything is a meaning. So we need to spend a lot of time about centimeters. We need to look at our customers. What we need to look at.
Aaron D.
What's the husband's like house style? Just generally speaking, like, you know, with, with suiting. What's the house style? If you had to describe it? Because it is about length and width and height.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. You know, what is all, you know, it's shoulder pads. Yeah, of course. Strong shoulders high with seat trousers. So I would say belly button. Yeah.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. But before everything, it's a question of comfort, not just a question of style. So people, you know, it's always the market, they try to imitate the jeans because of the sportswear. So. But you know, for me you don't have to, you have to trust the classic. You don't have to change the balance of a suit. There are golden rules, we need to respect them. We need to have respect for the genealogy of tailoring. This is the story of tailoring of. Of course we can play with. So I would say that everything starts with high waisted trousers. You know, natural position of the trousers. And then it could be a really wide trousers, flare trousers, but we start to like again the kind of tapered one which is more slim, which we call this the old husband. But it start to be really interesting again and you have to be really humble because, you know, everything's change in menswear and you have to change everything. It's like the, you know, a leopardo movie of Visconti. You know, this is the gay power. So this county in this fantastic movie, Bert Lancaster said if we want things stay the same, everything has to change.
Jen Hemsen
Right. Okay.
Aaron D.
You know what changes? The old concept.
Nicola Gabel
That's the perfect definition.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Classic menswear.
Aaron D.
Very Buddhist.
Jen Hemsen
Shout out Bert Lancaster faster.
Nicola Gabel
You know, and a big, you know, I have a lot of respect for the classic menswear. You know, we have fantastic competitors, but a lot of people, you know, they stay, they, they, they stay the same without changing.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So it's become, you know, outdated. You need to be relevant.
Jen Hemsen
It's can be the enemy.
Nicola Gabel
It's new, it's new used. It's new, it's new needs, even symbolic needs. It's new way of life. It's now people are not, you know, driving a Bentley of, you know. Yeah. Don't have a driver. So people are of real life, you know, riding a bike. So I need commuting to them. So yeah. I would say that high waisted trousers is the beginning. And then probably we like longer fab. Longer jackets to like elongate the body brings drama and elongate the silhouette of our customers. So it's always surprising. High waisted trousers and one jacket and you transform the guy.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
In something totally different. And I really like this moment where the guy is discovering himself in the mirror.
Jen Hemsen
Right. In real time.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. And suddenly it's. I mean, why it's possible again.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah. Holy. Who's this guy?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, it's. And it's what we really want to do, you know. And when this thing happened, I know that we are doing. We have the best job in the world.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You're doing the making people beautiful.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So husbands is not about cut fabric, obsession, beautiful images. Of course it's really important because it drives of self. But you know, at the end of the day, it's about people.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, the last point of the great experience for great retail experience is loving people.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You have to love them.
Jen Hemsen
That's very French.
Nicola Gabel
Even if they drive you crazy with. You know, sometimes people are so nerdy. So it will be. Yeah. I want to try right from.
Aaron D.
Is that the worst type of customer? The customer that knows too much?
Nicola Gabel
No.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
No, no. Sometimes it's the customer who know nothing. Okay. No, I don't think you have some categories.
Jen Hemsen
Yes, they're all, they're all worthwhile.
Aaron D.
They're all great. We all love them all.
Nicola Gabel
You know, it's people knowing that sometimes we are pain in the ass.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So they know they are.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah.
Nicola Gabel
But they cannot be in different ways. So that's okay for me.
Aaron D.
What about a customer that comes in and unfolds everything, tries on everything and then. And then walks out? Doesn't buy.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, that's a nightmare. That's. But you know, this is part of our job. We need to be grateful. We need to be grateful. You know, when I started husbands and I sold my first shoot and I see a guy giving my. This card, credit card and say he's giving his own money.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I never. I never forgot this. And. And it's why I'm not good at pricing.
Aaron D.
What was the first suit? Do you remember what it was?
Nicola Gabel
It was a Prince of Wales.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Classic.
Nicola Gabel
Classic. Yeah. Really? Yeah. It was a fox Prince of Wales. One button pick lapel, low rise. It was really about strokes at this time. It was really strokes. Sure. I have this. So I had this picture of. I thought it was Nick Valencia, maybe Julian Casablanca with this kind of super cool terroring.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And I said I want to. Of course I want the double breasted. Super classic. But I want. I would like to try this. And to be honest, it was a mistake.
Aaron D.
Sleep okay. Do. Do you wear a suit every day, Nicola? Yeah, every day. How many suits do you own?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, not that much.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, come on.
Nicola Gabel
No, believe me. You know why? Because it's expensive. Yeah.
Aaron D.
Are they. Are they all? Are they all?
Nicola Gabel
No, because what I told to my team is we have so many possibilities on so many fabric that you cannot choose right now. You have to wait for. If you have this idea in the mind, you know, after three months. Okay, let's do it. And I'm always like this, you know, I'm totally fond of fabric. I want to develop new fabric. I want to go to the archives of the mills we are working with. So my obsession is about fabric.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So it's all about. This fabric is crazy. Oh, I just watched this movie with this fabric. So I have so desire and I want so many things that I need to wait for.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
And you know what happened is that I have always new desire, new needs.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
So it's never last three months. So at the end of the day I launch nothing.
Jen Hemsen
Right. None of those suits get made all the same.
Nicola Gabel
This shoots, you know. The pinstripes I have in three style.
Jen Hemsen
Oh wow.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. The tap and one. The white trousers on the stray leg. And I have a double breasted notch leopard on single and a pick lapel.
Aaron D.
That's interesting that you have the same fabric but in different cuts.
Nicola Gabel
You know, you need to. I started to understand my style.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Maybe we will have a, you know, some words about, you know, at the end of the day you need to understand who you are.
Aaron D.
Who are you?
Nicola Gabel
You know the guy, he's a tailor. Yeah. Just the guy in the introduction. Oh God. I want to be this guy.
Aaron D.
Free Kentucky.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I'm a tall guy. Yeah, I'm 15 five all. I'm 15 five, 55. So you know, you need to play with this. When you are young, you can experience a lot. You know, you can play genes on all my young guys. There are genes. And I love jeans. And when I design a gents with my studio guys, I see myself in it.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
I say oh yeah, I will be like this. I will be in the streets. Because since I'm super grounded designer I need to see my myself right in the closest I want to put in collection. So it's super grounded and I see myself and so. And then when the jeans arrive, I'm saying that's not my thing.
Jen Hemsen
With so many jeans.
Nicola Gabel
Do you know, you know I'm ridiculous.
Aaron D.
When was last time you wore jeans? So when was the last time you wore jeans?
Nicola Gabel
Was my jeans.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
So yeah, yeah. You know, I end. I end using orange. And do you wear. It was an editions.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
And then I really like the 6635 Wrangler.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Which is tappered slightly flare. You know, it's 35 bucks. Yes, right. And the style is great.
Aaron D.
Do you wear shorts?
Nicola Gabel
You know on the website, you know. Yeah, style.
Jen Hemsen
It's terrible.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
Do you wear besides that when on holiday, do you wear shorts at all?
Nicola Gabel
No. Okay.
Jen Hemsen
No, Don doesn't wear shorts.
Nicola Gabel
You know, you know, and I you know and I'm totally ridiculous. And that's not a problem. You know, I understand. That's why I am the only guy in the plane in summer wearing a suit.
Aaron D.
On the airplane.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Best dressed guy on the plane.
Nicola Gabel
Remember? And I remember, you know, I told my customers that I you know, because in a way I am in a mission. I want people dress again.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, you're a billboard for a husband.
Nicola Gabel
So I know, you know, so I will give you to to, to feedback. So I told my customers and I was in Palma, in Mallorca, in Spain, you know, And I arrived at the airport after 22 hour flight. And then I stumble upon with to my customers. You aren't shoot. You are not a liar. Say guy. It was so warm. Ridiculous. Because again, I'm the only. But you know, I started to see some guy in shoot in the airport.
Claude
Really.
Nicola Gabel
So I say, I, maybe I am not the only one. And you know, I, I'm. I did an interview maybe eight years ago and I, you know, the journalist asked me this, you know, you always wearing suit. I'm saying, yeah, because that's comfortable and that's my style. The beach has wasted. You know, I feel comfort, comfortable.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I feel this is my uniform, this is my protection, this is my language.
Jen Hemsen
Your armor.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. I feel so comfortable. And I told this and it happened. It was the COVID that I had my old Diorham, you know, denim. And I said, you know, I just, you know, because in France it was forbidden to go to get out. So you had to write your own paper. Your notarization, this bureaucracy, French, you know, stupidity. So that's Kafka, you know, that's Kafka. So I get out with my jeans. All your own. Five minutes.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
But a guy saw me and put a, put a comment under the video. He's a liar. I saw himself. I saw him in a jeans.
Aaron D.
We got denim rats out here.
Nicola Gabel
So I cannot move, you know, in something else.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, no, he got in your house.
Aaron D.
You're, you know, you're a prisoner of your own design.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Literally.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And you know, I feel comfort, comfortable. And so when you are young, you can experiment and then you start to understand your body.
Aaron D.
Sure.
Nicola Gabel
You know, there are a lot of things, you know, people are saying, try the shades, try colors. That's not my thing. I'm really good in gray stripes and blue. That's it. And you start to understand who fits you, who you want to be. And I want to be a quiet guy, you know, I want to work, I want to be, of course, I like to be, you know, elegant. But, you know, that's not my obsession. I want to have few things and don't think about it. I know the job is done.
Aaron D.
A nice simple life.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. And it happens around 35, 40 years old. So you are quite young to find yourself, guys.
Jen Hemsen
Thank you. Totally.
Nicola Gabel
Dude, the mouth shape is working. When you are young, you have a lot of inspiration. You have a lot of, you know, style, impression, you know, when it was fantasy. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, I, I was full of Serge Gainsborough, you know, Jarvis Cooker, you know. Yeah. David Berry, Brian Ferry, you know, I was, you know, full of this guy. And then I started to see real old men in the street in Paris or in London, New York, and it's, you know, you started to become you. So it's like all your inspiration start to leave you and to be real. And I started to look at all men because, you know, in a way I started to be an old man, you know, even at 55, you know, you don't have the same body. So I start to understand that with age you can be radical, but in a small, you know, swear around you.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You know what I mean?
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
When you are young, you, you, you, you can try everything, but you are not a kind of style figure.
Aaron D.
Right.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
When you are becoming older, you start to understand who you are. That's your journey. And then you, you are so radical in your, in the way you dress because it's you and it's minimalistic. And then you start to be an inspiration for other people.
Jen Hemsen
For the younger folks.
Aaron D.
You're certainly an inspiration for younger folk.
Nicola Gabel
And you start to follow the old guy.
Aaron D.
Do you see younger folks using you as an as inspiration?
Nicola Gabel
Like whether they say using husband as inspiration? Sure, A lot. A lot. And you know, flattering. I, you know, I'm not naive enough to don't see that a lot, a lot of brands are copying us, but that's okay. Really. Oh, you know, taking inspiration. You know, I am brands. We know that. We know. I, you know, I have these. Are they French? I have this design friends and I have this artistic director work in branding and say all the mood boards have husbands. Yeah, they do them. And that's okay for me because, you know, it doesn't bother you again? No. We are not the only one.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Doing a great job. And I'm really happy to is in the radar again.
Aaron D.
Are they, are these brands that you think are maybe coming a little close to borrowing the husband's look, Are they like, like, is it trickled down like fast fashion or is it like the big houses?
Nicola Gabel
For the moment, it's high fashion, which.
Jen Hemsen
Is flattering because it's nice. But when it comes becomes Zara, then you're pissed.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, it's high fashion. It's small brands, indie brands. So that's okay for me. But you know, I don't mind about being copying because again, what we are doing is building new things so you can copy, you know, you can copy the result. But you cannot copy the process and you cannot copy the understanding of what we are doing. You know, when I launch Husbands, I had this first double breasted jacket and I was really happy with it. We work hard with my pattern maker to make something really sexy. So I showed the jacket to an old tailor and said, what? What do you think? So, yeah, that's not bad. That's. It's gonna.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
It's gonna be good in seven years. Oh, yeah. I'm so. What. What are you meaning? What. What's the meaning of this? You will understand. So it was really, you know, Kartika, kids. Yeah. You know, suddenly you understand, you know, the symbolic value after learning. Yeah. And now I understand that you need to learn yourself. Half the jacket has to fall. You need to make mistake. You need to make prototype. You need to improve, you know, again, you know, if you want to, things stay the same. Everything has to be changed.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, we are probably on the third revamp of our jacket.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, wow.
Nicola Gabel
It's so. It's a nightmare. Nobody want to change. The studio doesn't want to change. You know, the retold guide doesn't want to change. But you are still improving. So I understand that you need to make the mistake. You need to understand why this position of the first button is good. Why for double breasted, the cross, the position of low cross of the two part of the jacket is good. You need to understand the balance between the width of the shoulders and the length of a jacket. Okay. The proportions and that's the process. So yeah, guys, copy us.
Aaron D.
Good luck. So is it.
Jen Hemsen
Is it.
Nicola Gabel
But you and. But you won't understand why we.
Aaron D.
Is it that people are just like printing out photos of editorial, the lookbooks, the Instagram and putting it on their mood boards or is it like people coming into the store and buying things and you know, being like, what's your email? Oh, it's, you know, james@lvmh. Oh, sorry. My. Yeah. And then like taking the garment, you know, and like it's both.
Nicola Gabel
Both.
Jen Hemsen
But they're spending money.
Nicola Gabel
You know, to be honest, we are not obsessed by this. Yeah, yeah. When we check the email, you. We know all the fashion brands, you know, this book. But you know, you know, I really like that people in fashion houses or you know, classic tailoring, menswear booked our product. I'm super happy when we organize trunk show and this is the sell guy you know of. You know, we organized trunk show in Japan at Tomorrowland and I think we made notice it and but it was Tomorrowland and it was the sale guy water for themselves and said, yeah, I'm super proud.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Because they, you know, hold it there. They had, you know, stuff in hands and they choose ours.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, right, true.
Nicola Gabel
So it means a lot. Again, it's the highest compliment and in a way when you are copied, you need to reinvent yourself. Sure. So it's super challenging because you move forward.
Jen Hemsen
Motivation for you.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Is Japan a big market?
Nicola Gabel
It start to be a big market, but that's a difficult market. And I'm going to tell you why. It's, you know, in 2012, it was easy to understand that the functional shooting, the functional tailoring, the classic menswear, the obligation tailoring was day people, you know, had no obligation to dress anymore.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
You know, that could they could they. They could go on work, you know, with jeans, T shirts, no tie. You could go to the opera or the theaters, you know, in a jeans. So no obligation to dress anymore. So it was really easy to understand that we need to build and new values and new needs on tailoring. Japan is really specific because you still have a vivid functional needs for tailoring. People are still using tailoring in a really functional and useful, useful way. So they go, they work a lot in shooting there. They have this tradition to dress when they go to events. So it's difficult for us because we could be in part of a market between this kind of brands who are doing great job but doing functional. And of course, our vision is totally different. We are making, you know, to sum up, you know, a kind of nightclub tailoring. Even the tweed, you know, when we design tweed, it's a year it could be worn in a nightclub. The graphic T shirts.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And the guy would add great style. So suddenly you are between a Henry Pool and red jacket. And you know, so market is probably a really strong opportunity for us, but we need to find right way to position ourselves with a night partner who will push us between, you know, town Brown and, you know, you know, Brioni maybe.
Jen Hemsen
Sure.
Nicola Gabel
But you know, it's since the beginning of husbands world sale is difficult because of this.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Because we are between two worlds.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You know, and we are fashion obsessed by fashion. The story of fashion, you know, there's a beautiful storytelling they build and this kind of always be on the verge to create new things. And the beauty of a craft of tailoring and this beauty of things will stay there forever. And so it's really difficult for people to understand that we could be sold with Dries von Natan maybe acne or you know, even lower. Yeah. So yeah, we are since the beginning we face this, this trial.
Jen Hemsen
You have one foot in like each world.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
You got to negotiate that.
Aaron D.
So we, you know, husbands might have a foot in, in every world but like, you know, whether you're, whether young guys are getting inspired by you or by the brand or by the brands that are copying you. For a young guy that's in the market for their first suit, what do you think? What's the one suit every guy should, should own?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, I won't be original on these guys. You know, it's a blue suit. It's a great shoot because he had to be versatile.
Aaron D.
Start classic.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. Don't, don't try on stripes or Prince of well patterns. But again you can have some joy doing and I really like it doing and that's the most difficult part, right? You know, doing the perfect blue suit.
Jen Hemsen
Having fun with it.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And you can, you know, we have so many patterns in the room, we have so many options. For the trousers. Then you can build Android different blue shirts.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Double breasted, single breasted, long jacket, high waisted, tapered jeans. You know, tapper the flare trousers. You know, you can imagine playing with the shoulder pads. You know, strong shoulders like mine today it could be a softer. So there are so many possibilities of create your own story to build your own story. But yeah, let's start with, with, yeah, a blue or gray, right?
Aaron D.
You need that, you need a salt.
Jen Hemsen
That's the foundation and then from there.
Nicola Gabel
You make this third.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You know, black, gray, dark gray, mid gray. And then black is so specific that it's at the corner of the, of a, of a wardrobe. And I would say yeah, maybe a. Stripes, stripes you can. And again what I want, you know, there are very, so many passion behind our clothes, you know, our workshop. You know, when you buy the fabric in the uk, Scotland, you can see these people with real and with statues doing this for years their grandfather was working in the same factory, right?
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
They are so proud of that. They married a sheep doing incredible fabric. And then when you go to factory and workshop and you see all this lady on the old man cutting, stitching, you know, and they are so proud of the real craftsman because that's your old craft. And so. And of course at the end of the day there is a passion at a husband so you need to wear it. This is your only obligation as a customer to wear it. It's a word I love that I don't like to make you know, kind of yellow. Crazy, crazy yellow outfits. Because it will stay in the wardrobe.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And so a blue and a gray. You can wear it in so many occasions and you can mix and match. Just wear the jacket, trousers. And I'm really proud, you know, what I want is that this outfit, this passion hold, this love in the making, was then in the street of New York, you know, Tokyo, Paris, London, Milan.
Aaron D.
What's the number one most common mistake you think guys make when it comes to suiting?
Nicola Gabel
What I see is, of course, the slimmer pants.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Low rise still. Yeah, low rise. Difficult.
Aaron D.
Especially when you have jeans that show the butt.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
You don't like those? Okay, no butt crack.
Jen Hemsen
No butt crack. That's normal mistake is showing crack.
Nicola Gabel
Okay. You know.
Aaron D.
Oh, jeans are okay.
Nicola Gabel
Okay. Yeah, of course jeans are okay. You know, you again, you cannot make mistake with jeans.
Aaron D.
The trousers should be truly at your waist, at your true waist.
Nicola Gabel
And not too tight, you know, Please, not too tight. When you see the print when you are thin, that's okay. Everything is going to suit you. But, you know, again, I would say shorts and slim. So short jacket, slim pants, low rise. That's the first mistake people are doing. Because you know what? We tried so many, especially small guy, thinner guys. All the clothes we tried are always too big. Suddenly, when you can be so fitted, you made the mistake. And I did my first mistake with a bespoke suit I ordered to my tailor, my first tailor, and it was really full of Eddie. So I wanted something really slim. He didn't understand. But it accepts, right? And he accepted. And then it was. It was a failure because, you know, I couldn't even move.
Jen Hemsen
Not comfortable.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, it's for €4,000. Couldn't move in my shirts to be.
Aaron D.
Prisoner of your design again.
Nicola Gabel
So I started to learn that. And the second shoot was also missed, like, fair, because how many.
Aaron D.
How many bespoke suits until you got it right now?
Nicola Gabel
The other one was okay, okay. Yeah. I ordered maybe not that much, maybe six or seven.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I was broke.
Jen Hemsen
He was a lawyer.
Nicola Gabel
So I started Husbands, you know, And. And the second one was also failure because I listened too. Too much.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, okay. He dressed you.
Nicola Gabel
Kind of what I said to my cell guy on people, you know, want to order things to husbands is. We need to balance. It has to be a dialogue, you know, you need to understand what our vision. And in a way, you need to accept our vision and, you know, follow our path, but we need also to understand that it's for you guys and you will wear it in this occasion with this body. So we need to adapt. So we need to find the right balance between units and our vision. And when these two needs is really well balanced, it's a success.
Jen Hemsen
Right. And they're coming back to get the second.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And you can, you can experiment, but I really like when my customers start with banker or lawyer because started with really conservative silhouettes, you know, the type of one 19 centimeters. So classic things we are doing since years. And then at the end of their journey at husbands, they have big label.
Jen Hemsen
They'Re a rock star.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And going to their job like this. Oh, yeah, yeah. And you know, we. I saw a change in the corporate world because at the beginning, my customers were really, you know, people were laughing at them. Oh yeah, you have these shoes and you know, and so people even, you know, the partner in, you know, big office, they didn't dare to wear your beautiful suits and say, yeah, you know, people will say that I'm going to a wedding. You know, my young team will. We're gonna joke at myself and you know, kidding. And now the young crowed ask them where I can buy some good stuff.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, where can I get that look? Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And.
Aaron D.
And I saw this guy in an airport.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, exactly.
Aaron D.
So whether the customer is a banker, a lawyer, a rock star hitting the nightclub in the suit. You've said that you want the man who's wearing husbands to be the sexiest man in the room. Right. What does a sexy man mean to you?
Nicola Gabel
Again, for me, this is the man who know himself. You know, when you. Exactly, you don't try to copy him. But young, you know, when you are young, you need to be feeded by other people. And it's even, even more dangerous when you find yourself too fast, too fast, you know, you need to make mistake. You need to understand your body. You need to understand. And you know, it could be jeans, T shirts, tailoring, it could be sneakers, it could be streetwear, it could be Americana style, it could be workwear. When the guy is really himself, you know, here, super grounded, you know, not bothered about the clothing because it's not natural. For me, it's becoming Super 6, right.
Jen Hemsen
Being yourself is the sexiest thing.
Nicola Gabel
Being yourself, it's sexy. And it's really what I want to to do with my customers is help them to dare to be themselves.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, dare to be sexy.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, you need to dare, you know, listen to you. You know, follow your guts, be the one you dream to be. And then you are going to be, you know, it's why, you know, it's maybe, you know, sexiest guys in the room. It's the kind of, you know, and, you know, slogan.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah. Tagline.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
Be all that you can be.
Nicola Gabel
I think that's we want you. It's really what we want to do. But I don't want people thinking about husband about this. You know, we shouldn't look like a.
Aaron D.
Clown, but you should look interesting.
Nicola Gabel
You know, give them the possibility to be who they want to be. And it's why culture is so important for me. Because, you know, artists, they show you the path, then you, you understand life better with a great artist. It could be painters, novelists, cinematographer, directors. And you suddenly you say, okay, I could be. It touched me. It moved me, you know, and it's why we put the culture at the center of husbands. Because of this. Not because, you know, we need to make marketing with, you know, it's real. It's a real thing for us because we want to dress people, real people. We don't. We want people who will maybe. You don't have to live the life of another. You don't have to wear the wardrobe of another. You know, it's. It needs to be your own things.
Aaron D.
Have you ever done, like, marketing, like to get the guy you want in husbands? Do you ever do marketing tactics like, like giving stuff away for free, like influencers asking for us?
Nicola Gabel
No, Never. You know, what about podcasts?
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. You are the only one. Yeah.
Aaron D.
Okay, cool. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Nicola Gabel
Let me just beginning for.
Aaron D.
But you don't, you don't. You don't. First see. You don't see yourself ever doing that.
Nicola Gabel
No, no. Since the beginning. Because our margins are so low.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
That, you know, everything is expensive at the end of the day, so. And you know, all these guys, the actors, you know, these people on tv, all the famous people, all the brand are giving so many things.
Jen Hemsen
Yes.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, the big conglomerates, they have. There's such power that they can give.
Aaron D.
They're paying well, they're paying them also to dress like, to wear.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
To wear the stuff that is copying you.
Nicola Gabel
Red carpet is such a thing for them.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
But, you know, I believe that you were. We start to wear, you know, the things in the right way when you buy them.
Jen Hemsen
Yes. You spend your hard earned money on something you actually want to wear.
Nicola Gabel
It's like, it's like, you know, there's.
Aaron D.
A lesson in there for us.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
It's like your shrink.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You have to pay, you know, Nothing will move inside you.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
So I believe, I believe that when you pay, you wear it.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
I'm really proud because all the famous people we. We dress. I know that all. Every day the big brands want to raise them for free. And they told me, but they're paying.
Aaron D.
But they're paying.
Nicola Gabel
Today I went on stage and I have the CEO of his brand.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And he wanted to give me the crap because I have a nursement and I'm really happy to pay for this.
Aaron D.
So just with desolate Miss, you know.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. Yeah. I'm so sorry. I am desolate. I am. I have husbands.
Jen Hemsen
Right, Good.
Nicola Gabel
So I'm really proud of this. We never. Sometimes we rent. Never give. Yeah. Because I would like to help young guys, you know, young musicians.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Now young skaters.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
The DARE needs a new black. What celebrity?
Nicola Gabel
I like to help young podcasters.
Aaron D.
What celebrity is the biggest customer at Husbands?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, you know, I cannot say.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, you can.
Nicola Gabel
No, you know what? You know what? You know what? Because you know, people, you know, at the end of the day, people know.
Jen Hemsen
Okay. Yeah. If you know, you, you know, of.
Nicola Gabel
A record, I could say the bigger name. It's big.
Aaron D.
Is it. Is it French or French celebrities.
Nicola Gabel
That's an American. That's an American actor. But, you know, that, you know, you are well informed. But, you know, two things. Yeah. Because I think since they pay, you know, they are here to have a real experience. And you know, of course they are proud. And of course, you know, they like to tell to journalists of their friends that address in Husbands. But in a way, I need to respect this intimacy.
Aaron D.
Of course, you don't have to.
Jen Hemsen
You just said a tailor is like a shrink.
Nicola Gabel
That's why we never ever. And. And that's really difficult because we can imagine the list of, you know, really interesting people and creative people. We dress. And you know, it's really funny because these people were in my mood board.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, wow.
Aaron D.
Wow.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, in 2012, they were my mood board. Now they are my customers.
Jen Hemsen
That's incredible.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. So me it's so from the mood board to the register, I show them the document. Documents. Yeah. Look, it's you.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
They say, oh, yeah, I'm super happy. So probably something had been done really in the right way since they are there. So this is the first thing. They are real customers.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And then. And you know, that's not a gimmick. That's really true. You know, all my customers are important, you know, all that equally. Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
I remember even the guy that Bought us buys one shirt every once a year.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, of course, of course. I remember this young student, you know buying one shirt and I spent hours. He wanted to try everything. And now he has a big position as a CEO so you know, and.
Jen Hemsen
He needs suits now.
Nicola Gabel
I didn't, I didn't see you at the time. I didn't do this, you know, thinking he had a big success in the future. I just do this because.
Aaron D.
Right.
Nicola Gabel
This is. We are here to share our passion.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
And at the end of the day it's really. I want people dress in the street interioring again a nice stuff.
Aaron D.
Well if they care about husbands and if they're attracted to it, you know that they at the very least have good taste.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
And so. And like intention with like the things that they want to buy and how they want to present themselves. So it's almost like investing. Even if it's a 19 year old young kid investing your time in them. Like because they are going to grow up to be hopefully successful and like continue to care to share the same values that you do invest in.
Nicola Gabel
I remember I had. I have to flight and I was totally exhausted in a suit a super rich customers. So he wanted to see me. You know, he paid the flight. It was you know, a lot. Yeah. In first. This is the first and last time I'm. I'm gonna fly in first.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
I was really. And so I spend hours with him, you know, just hanging out.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And he said yeah, I want this, this, this, this, this. So yeah, it was fun. But you at the airport in Paris it was 8 8am and say I don't want to go home. I'm gonna go to the stores and I wake. I'm gonna clean it.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
So I cleaned the store. There was this young guy.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And he was super young. Not you, but the other one. And. And I said gotta deal with this. We are supposed to be closed. I want. You know, I'm tired.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
I come from. You know I was just with Mr. Bezos. It was not him even richer.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
I was a Tony Stark and Don Jr. I was. I said okay. I have to spend some time with.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, I always tell this story because this is part of our job. It's not about selling products. It's about, you know giving people the desire to dress in beautiful things. Yeah. It's a question of beauty.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So it's why I'm never fed up with, you know, retail.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Sometimes it's really intense. But you know, we are here for this. This is our mission statement.
Aaron D.
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Lawrence and I, the first time that we went to the store together, we walked in and there was a customer. Not going to say the name, but they had like eight suits lined up and they were just like. I think they just cashed out with all.
Jen Hemsen
Back them up, back them up.
Aaron D.
And what's the most. It got us thinking, what's been the most that someone spent in the shop at any one time in one trip? Because this might have been record setting. But then you talk about flying out to the King of Bruno.
Nicola Gabel
That. That's super comfortable. I. I don't know. Yeah, I don't think that much, you know.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, really?
Nicola Gabel
We are not Briony or. We are not, you know, you don't have Metallica. I don't. We have. Have creative people.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Because what we want is that people design their own shoot. So at the end of the day, we want our customers to become their own designer.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
So it's, you know, it's totally normal that we have a creative people. And it happened that creative people can be really successful and have a lot of. But I don't. And I, you know, I don't like the idea of buying five, six shoots.
Jen Hemsen
This was like eight.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. You need to wear it.
Jen Hemsen
And what's funny about this, you need to understand.
Nicola Gabel
And often when people are so anger to spend money and say, no, we are going to start with one.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Because we need to check if our measurements is good. And again, you know, with the ready to wear, maybe you have to try again. Maybe come in one week.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
So we need to organize this desire, you know, so, you know, I don't think. Yeah, maybe it was. Yeah. Three jackets, four shoes, maybe. We have big record. We have big MTM orders.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
We have big MTM order. The guy said, I want two stripes, two blue shades, two dark gray, one mid gray. And of course, you know, that's a financial. Because you need. Again, margins are low, so you need to balance. And we really need to spend some time with people buying only shirts.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah. You know, it's funny you talk about spending time because this person who we will not name, who bought eight suits, what was hilarious was that one or two of those suits were suits he already had, but forgot because he had so many.
Aaron D.
Yeah, he doesn't wear the clothes.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah. He just collects that. I don't know. It was not doing his job.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. But, you know, I discovered that a lot of people in other brain. Because I know some, you know, good friends who Work in fashion house. But a lot of people are buying stuff that they never, never wear, never, never collects dust because they need to.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And I don't want husband. You know, if something happened like this at husbands, I will be happy. Because sometimes we struggle. But you know, again, that's not the point. With husbands, we want to grace for people and bring them, you know, big desire to dress, to have to be stylish. Then, you know, you have your Gary Grant, you know, shoot in fresco wool. You know, in the morning, you won't have the same day. It's what I want. You know, when you are have, you know, 20 shoots, it's crazy.
Jen Hemsen
That's too many. Well, I would like 20.
Aaron D.
Let's talk about something you have that I think a lot of guys want. You have a glorious head of hair. What is your hair routine? What's your secret?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, yeah, you know, that's a mess. You know, I. You know, I. I have to give it, you know. You know what? My hair has such a mess that I gave up. You know, and it's giving up. It happened to. To became a haircut.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Suddenly people asking my ha, who was my hairdresser. But to be honest, is no my secret. I. Maybe I. I wash it one time.
Jen Hemsen
Not a lot, one time a week.
Nicola Gabel
That's it. That's it. Okay. But that's my only competitive advantage.
Aaron D.
You don't use any product. You just like, let it. You just.
Nicola Gabel
Wow.
Jen Hemsen
Just God.
Nicola Gabel
But you know, I'm not that great today.
Jen Hemsen
Look.
Aaron D.
Looks amazing.
Jen Hemsen
This is.
Aaron D.
You better pay for the video just to see these follicles. Oh, yeah. Also want to ask you, what is the secret to having a permanent tan?
Nicola Gabel
A permanent tan Tan.
Jen Hemsen
You're.
Nicola Gabel
Oh, yeah. No, you know, I am a French guy. Yes.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, we're aware. Very French.
Nicola Gabel
So two part of my family are friends are in France since 500 years.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, wow.
Nicola Gabel
But oh, geez, you know, at each generation there is a Tang like me.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
You know who pop up? Yeah, it was my uncle. Okay, then it's me. My brother is tall, blue eyes, blonde hair like my father was. So probably before this 500. This 500 years. I think some Sarazin, you know, some Arabic, because they come from Spain till France. So I think I have this. This blue. So the first explanation is that, you know, I'm tan, you know, batsman. The other one is I bought a horse in Portugal. You know, small house. I'm not rich at all. A small horse. And I really enjoy to go to Portugal probably one time per month.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
And so, you know, recharge. Beautiful.
Jen Hemsen
We get that vitamin D. It's, you.
Nicola Gabel
Know, my skin care. It kills, kills, kills. And you have this vitamin C. Yeah, yeah. And that's it.
Jen Hemsen
Wow.
Nicola Gabel
So I think simple, maybe, you know, tin a little bit, but that's all.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Jen Hemsen
Well, you look great.
Nicola Gabel
Talk about my time, you know, problem.
Aaron D.
What do you. Where do you go on besides Portugal? Where are your favorite places to go on holiday?
Nicola Gabel
Soft Lisbon, maybe four, 40 miles.
Aaron D.
Is that the only place you go on holiday or.
Nicola Gabel
You talked about like it's become my only place. I really enjoy choice to. To have, you know, that's small village. Yeah, this is.
Jen Hemsen
We can't wait to visit.
Nicola Gabel
That's a small country that you have us over.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
We'll fly in suits.
Jen Hemsen
Can we come?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. Always ensued. But I start to think about a specific, you know, I go to the beach and I want to of course, wear high waisted towards those.
Jen Hemsen
Come on, man.
Aaron D.
Like Tom Ripley.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Right.
Nicola Gabel
So I said rogue to the beach. So I want to have, you know, my. I. So we, we are working on, you know, graphic Te, but I want to wear my French cuff, you know, shirts really, you know, open here. I was it trousers. And that's it. So I try to think about a specific Portugal collection for me.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, like a resort. Resort collection.
Nicola Gabel
You know, super tell, super classic. But the way you wear it is light fabric because, you know, but no swimwear in summer. It's summer classic. Menswear is really difficult to deal with.
Aaron D.
Yes.
Nicola Gabel
In winter you have patterns, you have code, you have layering, but, you know, it's always a little bit heavier.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah.
Nicola Gabel
I'm feeling so. So we need to find a way.
Aaron D.
And you can't wear shorts because people will film you and be like, he's a fraud.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, you'll get busted. They'll comment on your Instagram.
Nicola Gabel
We need to find a way to make tailoring relevant in a more meaningless, minimalistic way. Radical. You know, we need to, you know, imitate the winter fabric maybe, you know, so we need to find a way.
Aaron D.
Can I just ask, when you go to the beach, do you wear a bathing suit?
Nicola Gabel
What?
Aaron D.
Trunks. Swim trunks.
Nicola Gabel
No. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I have a trunk. Of course.
Aaron D.
Okay. Okay.
Jen Hemsen
It's the only time I see your legs.
Aaron D.
I wasn't sure. I wasn't sure.
Jen Hemsen
He swim pants pants.
Nicola Gabel
And that's not a vintage one. You know, I think that's an old, you know, that's an old American Apparel.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Jen Hemsen
Interesting.
Nicola Gabel
They are quite short.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Aaron D.
Are your legs. Are Your legs very pale or are they also tan?
Nicola Gabel
No, that's 10.
Aaron D.
Okay, okay.
Nicola Gabel
Remember, I'm 10.
Jen Hemsen
It's got good stems.
Nicola Gabel
So, you know, I'm the guy who hide himself on the beach because I'm thin. But you know, come on, you guys have such perfect body.
Jen Hemsen
Put that out.
Aaron D.
We have big packs.
Jen Hemsen
No, big backed American.
Nicola Gabel
What do you ask surfers?
Jen Hemsen
Stop it. Okay.
Aaron D.
You're here in New York for work, not holiday. Although this has been a lot of fun.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, that's why I look tired.
Aaron D.
What, what do you think of the style in New York City?
Nicola Gabel
Oh, that's really frustrating because, you know. Yeah, because you know, the, the rhythm is so intense. We took so many appointment because we were, to me, we were there to meet our customers with Julian, as I work and it was really. Yeah, let's be as efficient. As efficient as we can. So, you know, yesterday we started at 10, you know, and at. We ended at nine. So it was, you know, long day, 10 or 11 appointments because that's the important thing. So I didn't have the time to hanging out in the streets. So it's really frustrating.
Jen Hemsen
So you wanted to see more.
Nicola Gabel
I plan to come back probably in October and of course with day off this time because I start to feel the appeal of the city. Definitely. And of course, you know, people here have such a specific mindset. We are so laid back. Even. Even the nerdy are laid back. You know, even the gig guys of the ring.
Jen Hemsen
The classic nerdy, laid back New Yorker.
Aaron D.
You're talking about gn.
Nicola Gabel
You know, in Paris, people are sometimes grumpy. You know, that's a cliche, but people are grumpy. A little bit blessed. But here, you know, you feel this kind of. Let's, you know, let's try new things. So. So I don't have a clear vision of what is newer New York right now, but I start to feel that something really interesting is energy, you know? Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
You know what might help? Having time here in New York and understanding it? Opening up a store here.
Nicola Gabel
You know, to be totally transparent. Yeah. Grass finger. It will be fantastic to open a.
Aaron D.
Store because you have a big audience here. It sounds like.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. We are so French. But in a way, you know, we have such a connection with American customers since maybe three or four years. It became so insane, you know, that's 40% of our digital sales. Yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
Is it New York, la? Is it both?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, it's New York la.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Miami, Chicago, you know, Boston. But you know, it's really, really and you know, a big part of a new traffic. And the stores come from the US and with really cool American customers. And you know, the distance make them probably understand husbands better than the French customers.
Jen Hemsen
Really?
Nicola Gabel
Because yeah, you see the distance, you see all the specificity of husbands, all the details, the fabric. And probably also that the retail space in New York that doesn't offer this kind of experience that guys you experiment at the store in Paris. So I think, yeah, we would be super exciting to be there. It's going to be a dream because again, you know, moving to Paris, to New York, New York to Paris, visiting my customers, going maybe in Tokyo, you know, it's going to be a dream because all these cool guys again, you.
Aaron D.
Want to skate here in New York?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, of course. No, but, you know, we are lucky again. You know, I have a great team and I had great customers. Really, I'm super, you know, lucky. So I think it's not by chance. I think we did something really in the right path, in the right way. But we are so lucky to have this great project. And sometimes it's difficult, you know, because we have growth, we have to deal with growth. And I really that growth and with Julian, my CEO, we really want to have growth. But improving the quality. Usually growth is, you know, against the quality of your product because you have to spend in marketing and communication. So what I dream about making the brand more important. But growth allow you to have best factor factory because you have the volumes, you can reach the moq. So the idea of new factory is you can, you know, 11 the new standards of quality. So, you know, my idea is Grover Brand. Of course, it's all. It would be, you know, a kind of slow graph.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Because of this obsession of quality.
Jen Hemsen
Absolutely.
Aaron D.
Can you say that like, you know, you kind of. I feel like your. Your mission statement, your personal mission, your professional mission is to make guys want to dress elegantly, fall in love with the clothing again. There's a romanticness to it. Do Americans dress like. Like, is your. Is your job going to be more difficult in America than it is in Paris, which has a. Which has a longer relationship with like men in fashion?
Nicola Gabel
Be honest. You know, people has a vision of Paris, like super trendy guys. No, that's just of a corner of a city. You know, this is two blocks. There are a lot of.
Aaron D.
A lot of French guys you dress like.
Nicola Gabel
And you know, why there? So what is. Maybe that's a cliche vision, but I think women's in Paris woman, you know, they put more Energy in dressing. And that's the same case in New York.
Jen Hemsen
Gotcha.
Nicola Gabel
You know, we need to rebalance. Yeah. Because you know, again, guys are totally lost. You know, it's really difficult. They don't have to. You know, you need to have a real life. You need to work, you need to love, you need to have adventure. You don't need to spend a lot of time to this closing. This is our job.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, I see.
Nicola Gabel
You know, I'm.
Jen Hemsen
That's your burden.
Nicola Gabel
I am a nevertic guy. You know, all my team is never take. So our work is to be obsessed for you guys to have real life.
Aaron D.
So we throw the clothes on. I love loud and we.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, exactly. And you know, you can, you can skate.
Jen Hemsen
You can and skate.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And you know, that's the point. You need to have real life, but we need to spend hours working for you guys.
Jen Hemsen
Wow.
Aaron D.
Yeah. What's the biggest differences you find between American menswear and French menswear?
Nicola Gabel
That, that's really difficult because I don't think there is a French menswear.
Aaron D.
Really.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah. Because you know, in 70s, let's say that, you know, the, the point is Paris is the capital of fashion, women. You know, this is, this is couture, you know, Christian Dior, Chanel. So it's really fashion for women.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And this is the center of the world. And believe me, this is the center when you see the fashion week, you understand.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
So that's so huge. But since years, since maybe one century, Paris is the center of the world's fun fashion, women's wear.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
High end couture. So, you know, the menswear here was just be to join, you know, the woman would dress arm candy. So it was really shoot. It was really. So we had a lot of makers, small brand, but it was really classic menswear. But because of the specificity in us, you have a big market, so you have a possibility of brands. So of course you have brands doing menswear, but they are, you know, essentially making women's wear square. So, you know, thinking about menswear in France, I don't have a clear vision. Maybe husbands or you know, young brands, but you know, a specific men square brand. France. Maybe it was lava, maybe it was, you know, what's the name? I lose his name. It's not our money. But you know, you have this incredible tailor. I will remember the name. So it was really tiny house for really a small an inch demand. Yeah. So not big brand. You add being brands of the market. You had Ralph Lauren, you have a walk where, you know, you can have supreme. You can have Ralph ran. You can have. Have, you know, this workwear.
Jen Hemsen
Calvin Klein.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. Tommy Hilfiger walkware brand. You know, I car heart carts. It's crazy.
Aaron D.
Levi.
Nicola Gabel
Levi, you know, so because of a market, so you have classic menswear. But since the beginning, you had this kind of new product because the again, Europe, country is so big and our bodies, you know, you had, you know, Americana, you have, you know, workwear, you have streetwear. So for me, you cannot compare because you have this specificity. In France, right. Fashion, you know, which is, you know, the fashion week is such a thing.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
And in the US you have a possibility to have brand and everything. I think, you know, it started this kind of shift. So really, this kind of shit between Europe. It's the battle of Versailles in, you know, this is a big moment in fashion.
Aaron D.
The battle of Versailles.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, the battle of Versailles. It was a big fight. French couture.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
And American couture in, I think seven, 1972. Okay. Did you watch the. The serial Netflix about Alston?
Jen Hemsen
No.
Nicola Gabel
There is a. There is a moment when they came in Paris, and I think it's the big shift, you know, American taking the power and, you know, you had the couturier and suddenly you have brands.
Aaron D.
Got it.
Nicola Gabel
So it was a big momentum, you know, it was big shift between the old world.
Jen Hemsen
Right.
Nicola Gabel
Of couture and, you know, the storytelling. Yeah.
Aaron D.
You took the brand in a way.
Nicola Gabel
You took the power.
Aaron D.
Well, we do know what. Okay, so France might be. Not be your. Paris might not be the capital menswear, but it is certainly the capital of love, right. And romance. Do you think that wearing a suit on the first date is the right thing to do for a guy?
Nicola Gabel
No, I don't think so. No, no, no, no. I don't think so. Again, you have to be the one you want.
Jen Hemsen
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
You know, you know, if you are, what I saw some guy in just, you know, Canadian tuxedo.
Aaron D.
Okay.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And that's such a cool thing.
Aaron D.
Look good.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, you good.
Jen Hemsen
American tailoring.
Nicola Gabel
So why are you gonna try a jacket, right? Be yourself again, you know, and that's a nice things. Maybe it's a cliche, but be yourself, you know, if you feel confident in your clothes. But again, you know, of course you have to. Yeah. You have to be in a way, you have to work on it on this date.
Aaron D.
You got to be interested.
Nicola Gabel
Do your homework before.
Aaron D.
Yeah. Okay. Be interesting.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Aaron D.
Be an interesting guy. Nicola, how Much money do you make?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, my salary, you know. No. So, you know, I have, I was, you know, I were much well paid when I was a lawyer. What I am my communication agency. But now I'm happy.
Aaron D.
Okay, good.
Nicola Gabel
I'm sure.
Aaron D.
Were you unhappy as a lawyer?
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, you know, because I'm, you know, I know that I'm. I have something to say. Of course, I have this. And. And again, I have this team and they help me to understand what I have to say. They are fantastic. So, you know, I'm super happy in the, you know, I don't have a feeling to go to work.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah.
Nicola Gabel
It's just my passion.
Jen Hemsen
That's why you look so good. Because you're happy every day.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, yeah, I know you are kind resume because, you know, you know, 10 days of trunk show in New York, you know, you are exhausted. But again, oh, the business is good. We have growth. And yeah, maybe we are going to try to find some new money. But again, again we want to be totally independent because I think the success of husband is about this vision and.
Aaron D.
You want to grow the right way, way slow but steady.
Nicola Gabel
Slow and probably retail space, you know, we know, yeah, New York, you know, the business is really doing good in Asia too. But of course what we want to be is a kind of institution for tailoring, like maybe shave for shorting. You know, you have a place where people want to come to have a great experience with classic menswear. Not all about not only tailoring, but you know, know, you know, jeans create your silhouette. So if you want to be an institution, you need to be focused on your product, on your quality and the retail experience. So you cannot, you know, booming, you cannot, you know, have, you know, double the digital, digital growth. Yeah, you need to be here and you are.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, you're gonna build it and they will come.
Nicola Gabel
So yeah, the business is good.
Aaron D.
Good.
Nicola Gabel
The, the margins are low, but the financial are goods.
Aaron D.
Well, besides bespoke suiting and besides clothing, what do you like to spend your hard earned money on personally magazine and books, reference pieces, Rare books or just.
Nicola Gabel
No, you know, it happens. I stubborn upon Japanese old books. You know, one of my, one of my, my great customer come to the trunk show and offer me some indie fashion magazine of the 2000.
Jen Hemsen
Wow.
Nicola Gabel
And it's insane. Yeah, that's totally insane. You know, each issue is a collection, right? So I won't say, I won't Give Spin Magazine 2005. Definitely they finished. Definitely. I like magazine. I like. Since I like fashion. So I like in D magazine of the 19th 2000. I like Japanese, Japanese menswear magazine. So my two passion is fashion tailoring. So, you know, you can imagine I can spend a lot of money on vintage magazine and of course books on architecture on a panther. You know, in the hotel we are. We have this massive book about Andy War World. It's insane. Yeah, this book. So I won't say the, the name because it's probably 20 collection.
Jen Hemsen
Wow. Just writing one so many ideas about.
Nicola Gabel
Eddie, about, about the Velvet Underground, about the Factory, about what it is in television in the 90s. In the, in the 2000 90s. In the 90s. That's insane. So I really feel the need to cut digitally, you know, to cut Instagram. You guys do a great job. You know what, you know, need books.
Jen Hemsen
You need the physical copy.
Nicola Gabel
Physical media since a little bit, you know, nostalgic.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
But I grew up in a pre digital world where everything was really difficult to catch. You know, you watch a movie and then you love this movie and you say what happened?
Jen Hemsen
Then the end.
Nicola Gabel
Nobody. You know, it was, it was vhs, you know, it was. You were lost.
Aaron D.
You have to rewind it.
Nicola Gabel
Everything was. Culture was so important and was part of your. Your identity. If you curse the guys with the LP of the Smith of a new order is became. It became immediately your friends. So you, where did you find this? In London. Right? You go when? And did you find the sweeter in London? The lambs Bullfu. Yeah, of course I go to this flea market. So it was really important. So everything was difficult to catch, too difficult to grab. Now you know, my guys, I say you have to watch. So this is the first snobbish part of you of the interview Bergman, you know, Visconti stuff or F stuff or you know, and like, oh, where's it streaming? Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
Is it on Netflix?
Aaron D.
I watch it on my phone. Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah. And you know, Alart, you know, you have to see Blue Velvet again. Yeah. And the syllabus the day after. You know, they have all their stuff on their computer.
Jen Hemsen
Oh yeah, right.
Nicola Gabel
You can, you can imagine. So, yeah, I am nostalgic of so what I told to my partner. I, I, she, she, I told her, you know, in April I will leave Instagram. Not husband. I have a secret.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, you have a secret.
Nicola Gabel
I will, yeah. Because I need to give, you know. Yeah. So I have an account which is really not that mysterious. But he's really done. I, I don't have any followers. But you know, I am on, I am on X. I am on And I follow a lot of people and I say, you know, yeah, Twitter, I am an ex.
Aaron D.
Tick Tock.
Nicola Gabel
No, not Tick Tock.
Jen Hemsen
Thank God.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah, I think it's great. Yeah, that, that's great. And, and a lot of people are doing stuff with husbands on tick, I'm sure.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
Nicola Gabel
And so yeah, I need the feel to have real need to hold it, find it to go to flea markets to buy, you know, old American, you know, stuff about panthers, about, you know, I don't know, I have a Jackson Po, you know, what's her name? Joe, you know, you know. But you know a lot of real things.
Jen Hemsen
Absolutely.
Aaron D.
Nicola, the last question we want to ask you before we get you out of here and back to the trunk show because you have a very important, very important appointment in 12 minutes. Do you have any constructive criticism you'd like to give us? We're such big fans of you and what you do. I think we're new friends. How can we be better? Please give us some of your wisdom.
Nicola Gabel
Ah, that's because I made so many mistakes with husbands. So. No.
Jen Hemsen
So you're not qualified.
Aaron D.
Is this a mistake?
Nicola Gabel
No, yeah, no, no, that's a pure moment of choice, guys.
Jen Hemsen
Okay, so we're perfect. Should we podcast in suits?
Nicola Gabel
When I met young entrepreneurs, the first thing I told them is start now. Don't postpone the perfect moment. Do it then dare ask people. If you have questions, call them and people will answer. And you can be pushy. If you want to meet a kind of super well known designer, try to catch his email and send him an email. People are totally, you know, passion is communicate.
Aaron D.
What's your email? Sorry, what's your email address?
Nicola Gabel
You will.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
You have it. No, I, I. And you know, so do it. I made so mistakes so. But, but yeah. What Maybe challenge yourself. You know always trying to. Yeah that's a cliche. Think out of the box. But you know, since I am, I don't come from a fashion world. Everything is new to me. You know what are we doing this? Why are doing collection? Why we need pre collection. When to do. What do we need to do? Wall sell. But you know you have to questions because everything is new. I'm naive. You know I'm. I was a lawyer and then I had this great communic digital communication communication agency. So it's always, you know, I'm, I don't, I'm not afraid to be naive. I love that you. That that's it, you know. And yeah stay humble.
Jen Hemsen
Oh, not even humble. That's all you need, folks, because, you.
Aaron D.
Know, we're getting one of those.
Nicola Gabel
I really like to say to my team, you know, at the end of the day, guys who are making cuff, who are making, you know, we are making the alteration for the trousers. We are, you know, at the. At the feet of our customers. Yeah, we need to be really humble. We are doing this for customers and we are nothing without them. So even if people are talking about you in a really nice way, that's okay. But we are not saving life, you know, but let's do our best and keep it up with this obsession of the satisfaction of. And of course, a great product and, you know, great, great experience. That was amazing in the 70s, you know, Amazon, her house, luxury house, making cuffs. It was close. It was not that huge. It was not mega brands. It was a small community of people were, you know, you were understanding, you know, the product. The couturier. And the couturier was totally obsessed with his customers and creativity and. Yes. Be creative.
Jen Hemsen
Yeah, yeah, yeah.
Aaron D.
Nicola, where can the kids follow you on social media? Maybe you want to plug Husbands and.
Jen Hemsen
Not the personal or the website even.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Aaron D.
What do you want to promote? What do you want to plug? The floor is yours.
Nicola Gabel
I know guys, you know, you know, Husbands. Yeah, husbands and. Yeah. Please follow the Instagram. Yeah, because that's a good one. Again, so much. Yeah, yeah. On Instagram, we share our culture, so we always share what we like. You know, the article we put on the website. But also we share some video on YouTube. So it's really. Well, you can catch. Yeah. And of course you will have a picture and go on the website and please, you know, pass visit, you know, if you can come up. And of course, I would dream to have a store in New York because you could be, you know, in America and then you can be in Europe, so you can, you know, and then in Asia, so in each way.
Aaron D.
Yeah.
Nicola Gabel
In which country you could have a kind of.
Jen Hemsen
It's a must stop in Paris. If anyone that's listening to the show is there, you just swing by.
Nicola Gabel
Yeah.
Jen Hemsen
It's worth all your time.
Aaron D.
And I'm gonna. I'm gonna see if you have a. Can squeeze me into the last day of the trunk show tomorrow before you fly back to Parry. Nicola, thank you for coming onto the.
Jen Hemsen
Appreciate your time.
Nicola Gabel
I had duet time, you know, I was a little bit worried. Shut up. Eduardo told me they are going to be rude.
Jen Hemsen
No, us, never.
Aaron D.
Yeah, no, we didn't use any slang.
Nicola Gabel
No, it was great.
Aaron D.
Good. Chef. Take us out.
Claude
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Podcast Summary: The Nicolas Gabard Interview with Throwing Fits
Introduction In this episode of Throwing Fits, hosts Aaron D. and Jen Hemsen sit down with Nicolas Gabard, the founder of Husbands—a brand dedicated to reviving classic menswear with a modern twist. Released on April 2, 2025, this interview delves deep into Nicolas’s journey from law to fashion, the evolution of Husbands, and his vision for the future of menswear.
Nicolas Gabard’s Journey Nicolas begins by sharing his unconventional path to fashion. Originally a lawyer, he transitioned into the fashion industry, driven by a passion for classic tailoring and a desire to address the gaps he perceived in the menswear market.
"When I launched Husbands 13 years ago, classic menswear was totally lost." [00:57]
Reviving Classic Menswear Nicolas discusses the state of classic menswear when he founded Husbands. He observed that the market had become complex and fragmented, making it difficult for consumers to navigate and stay informed.
"We need to rebuild a fully prescription ecosystem with new journalism, new bloggers, forums, influencers, podcasters bringing new information." [01:17]
His approach emphasizes creating an educational and supportive environment for men to rediscover the art of dressing well.
Challenges and Vision Nicolas candidly shares his early challenges in the bespoke suit industry, including his initial failures in ordering suits that didn’t fit well.
"I started to learn that... I couldn’t even move in my shirts." [15:33]
These experiences fueled his commitment to developing a brand that prioritizes both style and comfort, adhering to the timeless rules of tailoring while infusing modern elements.
Design Philosophy and House Style Husbands’ design ethos centers around high-waisted trousers, longer jackets, and strong shoulder lines, all tailored for comfort and versatility. Nicolas emphasizes the importance of respecting classic tailoring while allowing room for personal expression.
"Everything starts with high-waisted trousers. Natural position of the trousers." [33:35]
He highlights the meticulous attention to detail in every garment, ensuring each piece enhances the wearer’s silhouette and confidence.
Retail Experience and Customer Relations A significant focus of the interview is Husbands’ unique retail experience. Nicolas believes in treating customers with utmost respect and creating a welcoming environment where men feel empowered to explore their style without judgment.
"We want them to come out with a beautiful outfit. It’s our mission to make people happy again by dressing them in beautiful fabric." [26:27]
He shares anecdotes illustrating the deep connections Husbands builds with its clientele, fostering loyalty and repeat business through personalized service.
Marketing and Branding Nicolas discusses Husbands’ unconventional marketing strategies, opting for organic growth through quality products and word-of-mouth rather than traditional advertising.
"We are not obsessed by this. We are building new things, so you can copy the result, but you cannot copy the process." [46:07]
He underscores the importance of authenticity and maintaining the brand’s integrity amidst increasing competition and imitation.
Global Expansion and Market Specifics While Husbands has a strong presence in Paris, Nicolas is keen on expanding internationally, particularly in markets like Japan and the United States. He recognizes the distinct challenges and opportunities each market presents, advocating for a tailored approach that respects local tastes while staying true to Husbands’ core values.
"Japan is really specific because you still have vivid functional needs for tailoring." [50:14]
Personal Insights and Lifestyle Nicolas shares personal anecdotes that reflect his dedication and passion for fashion. From his minimalist approach to grooming to his love for vintage magazines and books, his lifestyle embodies the sophisticated yet approachable image Husbands promotes.
"My obsession is about fabric... I want to develop new fabric." [37:35]
Advice for Aspiring Entrepreneurs Towards the end of the interview, Nicolas offers invaluable advice to budding entrepreneurs. He encourages them to start immediately, embrace their naivety, and remain humble while pursuing their passions.
"Start now. Don’t postpone the perfect moment. Dare to ask people questions." [96:30]
He emphasizes the importance of perseverance, adaptability, and maintaining a clear vision to navigate the complexities of building a brand from the ground up.
Conclusion and Future Outlook Nicolas wraps up by discussing Husbands’ future aspirations, including potential store openings in New York and further global expansion. He reiterates the brand’s commitment to quality, customer satisfaction, and the continuous evolution of classic menswear.
"We want to be a kind of institution for tailoring... focusing on product, quality, and retail experience." [91:19]
Notable Quotes with Timestamps
Final Thoughts Nicolas Gabard’s interview on Throwing Fits offers a comprehensive look into the revival of classic menswear through Husbands. His dedication to quality, customer experience, and authentic storytelling serves as an inspiring blueprint for entrepreneurs and fashion enthusiasts alike. By blending timeless tailoring with modern sensibilities, Husbands not only dresses men elegantly but also fosters a renewed appreciation for the art of dressing well.
For more insights and updates from Throwing Fits, visit www.throwingfits.com.