
More people are getting facial injections — and they're starting younger too.
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Noel King
Earlier this year, producer Amanda Llewellyn, RIP was in Portland, Oregon, on vacation.
Amanda Llewellyn
I'm hanging out, feeling really good about myself, and I walk past this store where a guy is offering free skincare samples and I say, sure, I'll take one. Then he literally grabs me by the hand and pulls me into his store and suddenly he's putting like this goop under my eyes. And I'm not a big skincare girly, but I dabble. And I'm telling you that this stuff was magic. Like, I have the beginnings of crow's feet, but I'm looking in the mirror and they're go. And he tells me this stuff costs $1,300, but it is so worth it because you won't need Botox for another three years.
Noel King
How old are you? Amanda?
Amanda Llewellyn
I'm 28 years old.
Noel King
Coming up on Today Explained the pressure.
Amanda Llewellyn
To fix your face.
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Amanda Llewellyn
For real.
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Yasmin Tayag
Foreign.
Noel King
It's Today Explained. I'm Noel King. Yasmin Tayag is a staff writer at the Atlantic, where she also hosts a podcast called how to Age Up. This is a show about rethinking aging, which Yasmin recently found herself doing when she noticed that many of her friends have been looking suspiciously good.
Yasmin Tayag
Well, as a woman in her late 30s who is on Instagram all the time, I couldn't help but notice that some of my friends who are the same age as me look amazing. And I was like, wait, I know you're in your late 30s. Your face should not look that tight. What's going on here? So in person, I started to ask Casually like, what's your secret? And everyone I spoke to was very happy to tell me that they've been doing baby Botox since their mid-20s.
Noel King
What is baby Botox?
Yasmin Tayag
You can interpret baby Botox in two ways. The main way is that you use baby doses of Botox. So typically, a normal Botox procedure might use 20 to 40 units of Botox. A baby Botox procedure uses only 10 to 20. But I think it can also be interpreted to mean that it keeps you looking kind of like a baby from the moment you start. So baby Botox is thought of as a preventative procedure. The idea is that if you begin using it before you start forming wrinkles, so freezing your face at, say, age 20, you will not develop those wrinkles as long as you keep up the Botox, huh? Yeah. I was really surprised, and they were very forthcoming about it.
Noel King
This is super interesting. I'm a couple years older than you. I'm in my absurdly early 40s, let's call it. And my impression of Botox, which I haven't tried, but definitely would, is that it is something we do in the shadows. It is not something that we tell our friend, who is a literal reporter for the Atlantic about.
Yasmin Tayag
Yeah, you would think, right? And I'll tell you that I used to work in a Botox clinic when I was in college. Well, I was a medical assistant to a doctor who began moonlighting as an injectables doctor. And so I got. I was exposed to a lot of the people who were coming in to get Botox. And this was in the mid to late 2000s. And at the time, it was very secretive. You know, people didn't want others to know that they were getting Botox. We would have women come in paying in cash because they didn't want their husbands or family members to know that they were paying for Botox. And I think a lot has changed since then. So when I was doing reporting for this story, something that came up a lot was the impact of reality tv.
Podcast Advertiser/Host
I have Botox up here.
Yasmin Tayag
Here.
Dr. Michelle Huri
I've had filler in my cheekbones, filler in the chin, filler in the jaw and my lips.
Podcast Advertiser/Host
So pretty much my whole face except my nose.
Yasmin Tayag
Multiple women I spoke to mentioned Vanderpump Rules and the Real Housewives series. So I don't really watch these shows. But what my friends told me was that on these shows, the women are very open about their Botox use.
Dr. Michelle Huri
I'd get Botox and I get filler.
Yasmin Tayag
I've always done that.
Noel King
Okay.
Yasmin Tayag
And I take care of my skin. Lots of water. Okay. And I lost some weight. And I think that openness just sort of bled out into the wider culture, leading us to a place where people aren't really embarrassed anymore.
Amanda Llewellyn
I am by no means against Botox, and anytime I can get it free, I double up.
Yasmin Tayag
There are some other things, of course, driving this baby Botox trend. I mean, the fact that so many people are on their phones all the time, taking photos of themselves, streaming on TikTok. You know, you're looking at your face constantly.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Hey, guys, get ready with me.
Yasmin Tayag
I'm 39 years old. I'm obsessed with skincare, and this is my nighttime routine for glass skin, including a new product.
Dr. Michelle Huri
If you think you have a double chin, you actually probably don't.
Podcast Advertiser/Host
Probably just excess lymph fluid that's sitting in this part of your face.
Yasmin Tayag
And the same goes for having been on Zoom for all of the pandemic.
Noel King
Where are we looking during our Zoom calls? Are you looking at yourself to make.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Sure you're not doing anything weird? Because that's what I tend to do.
Noel King
I actually purposely move my viewfinder close to your face so you think I'm looking at you, but I'm really not. I'm really not.
Yasmin Tayag
When you're looking at your face all the time, you're spending more time with the wrinkles and the fine lines that are forming. I think broadly, our culture has just become so visual. We're always looking at faces on social media. We're seeing our faces juxtaposed with those of celebrities who look incredible, possibly because they are doing so much baby Botox and other procedures.
Noel King
Can I tell you my theory based off of what you just said?
Yasmin Tayag
Yeah.
Noel King
I think we are doing and seeing too much in daylight. Half of my life used to happen after dark. Too much is being done with good lighting. We need to return to the days of poor lighting. Going out late at night, having drinks at dusk. Everything gets blurry anyway.
Yasmin Tayag
Yes. I mean, also, like, we have to mention the rise of the ring light, right?
Noel King
Oh, my God. I have mine on right now, and I'm furious about it.
Yasmin Tayag
You know, it's supposed to make us look better on camera, but it also magnifies everything on your face.
Noel King
How many of the youths are treating this? How common is this?
Yasmin Tayag
So it's become really popular. I saw this statistic that said between 2019 and 2022, the number of people in their 20s who got Botox rose 71%. It's a lot. It's a lot. And these are people who in the early 2000s, you wouldn't really think of as people who would get Botox.
Noel King
How are younger women doing this when there's also rent to pay and inflation running around the grocery store? Like, where's the money coming from?
Yasmin Tayag
Great question. I mean, you're right. Even baby Botox, which uses fewer units than normal Botox, is still expensive. It can run up to between like $200 and $400 per session. And if you were to keep it up, you'd probably have to do it at least twice a year because Botox tends to wear off between three and six months.
Noel King
Okay, so a couple hundred bucks twice a year, I guess something you can budget for. But not nothing.
Yasmin Tayag
Not nothing. But the way that my friends framed it. If you take it in the context of other procedures or other cosmetics that people are using to try to stay young, such as, you know, all the fancy anti aging creams or facials, massages, all of these things that a lot of people do pretty regularly, those can cost easily up to 100 bucks. You know, in New York City, at least a mani pedi can go for $100 easily.
Noel King
Yeah, I paid $87 the other day. Without Tiff, it's too much.
Yasmin Tayag
Yes. With the Tiff, it's crazy. And so I think when you view it as just a part of your normal skincare routine, you know, 200 bucks isn't that big a leap, especially if you consider it as potentially reducing your reliance on other types of cosmetics or anti aging procedures.
Noel King
Is there any danger to starting Botox when you're in your 20s?
Yasmin Tayag
I think something that should really give people pause is that we don't really know that much about the long term effects of Botox of regular Botox use. So the baby Botox trend began somewhere in the aughts and we just don't really know what happens because there just hasn't been enough time to see what the long term effects can be. But some of the dermatologists I spoke to for this article told me that broadly, one issue with Botox is that if you paralyze the muscles in one part of your face, the other muscle, like it still wants to move, your face still wants to move, and so other muscles can try to compensate. And so, you know, you'll start seeing wrinkles in those areas and potentially need to get Botox there. So I think one potential consequence of regular Botox use from a very young age is that you become dependent on it.
Noel King
Yeah, you're like chasing the aging all around your face. Yeah, that's actually super interesting to think about. If your forehead doesn't wrinkle, something else somewhere on that face is gonna move. And then, you know, a couple years from now, you might be chasing that with the injectable. Let me ask you, you host a podcast about aging, you try to be optimistic. You also know, I would imagine that there's a lot of pressure to look younger than you actually are. If baby botoxing becomes a bigger trend, could it become kind of an arms race where you've got a whole generation of 50 year olds who look 30 and then everyone has to change and double down in order to look good for their age?
Yasmin Tayag
You know, it's interesting. One of the women I spoke to actually brought this up. She felt like she was in competition with women to look youthful. And her concern was that all of these younger women started baby botox earlier than she did.
Noel King
Oh.
Yasmin Tayag
And so she's like, they've got a head start. You know, I only started in my late twenties. These women have seven years on me. And if we're going to end up continuing to do this procedure, I'm not going to ever catch up to where they are. And it's funny because intellectually I can understand, yes, we're supposed to be celebrating aging and feeling good about the wrinkles and the gray hairs and all of the wisdom and experience that come with it. But at the same time, I'm still looking at myself in the mirror trying to pull out my white hairs. And it comes from this immense cultural pressure, especially on women, to look good for their age. But I wonder if looking good for your age isn't even going to be good enough if this trend keeps up. You don't want to just look good for 30 or 40 and you want to look 20. One thing that has come up for me a lot as I think about this baby botox trend is that if you manage to stay looking 20 for the next 30 years of your life, what do you miss out on? You know, as I got older, I found that people treated me differently, often in a positive way. I was taken more seriously. I was told I had more gravitas. And if you never look that way, what happens to you?
Noel King
Yasmin Tayag of the Atlantic. Her podcast is called how to Age Up. Coming up next, a physician who has been chasing young women out of her office.
Yasmin Tayag
So good, so good, so good.
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Yasmin Tayag
You're listening to Today.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Explain. So my name is Michelle Huri. I'm a physician. I do dermatology and dermatopathology, which is looking under the microscope for, you know, skin biopsies and whatnot. And so I'm seeing patients, medical patients, cosmetic patients, and occasionally surgery. And I have my own office. So I started my practice at the end of 2015 and really got into the swing of things in 2016. And I really didn't start seeing that uptick of younger cosmetic patients until the pandemic. Everyone was basically chronically online. They were on zoom, they were looking at themselves and there was the rise of TikTok and the filters and people were really, you know, seeing these flaws, these perceived flaws that either aren't there or are so minimal in just normal anatomy. And they have really, you know, made it front and center where it affects them, it affects their daily life. And, you know, I really feel that it has become more of a pathological thing. I did have this patient very recently who was on the younger side. She was mid-20s and really, you know, beautiful girl. I don't see a lot of signs of aging on her face, but she was coming in for neurotoxin, Botox, dysport, that sort of thing. You know, I really had to kind of search for movement on her face already, so there wasn't a lot, a lot for me to treat. So I told her, you know, okay, no problem. I will do a little bit. I mean, I see. Maybe it helps with your 11 lines in the middle. You know, maybe if you're looking angry, that's fine. No problem. We'll do a little bit. And at the end of the session, you know, she was asking me, so what do you think about my nasolabial folds? Basically is the fold that goes from the corner of your nose, your nostril, to the corner of your mouth. And it is kind of the barrier between the kind of upper lip and your cheek. And when you smile, it kind of folds like that. Of course, the more you age, the more of a line will be left behind when you're not smiling. And she was just, you know, she's pointing to her cheek as if there was something there, but there was nothing there. And so I had to tell her, like, well, I. I don't see that you're perfect. It's a phantom nasolabial fold. It didn't exist. So I had to bring a mirror out and show her there's nothing here. Right. And so that sort of mentality where someone really is perceiving a flaw that is absolutely not there. Providers need to say no. Unfortunately, they're incentivized not to. Especially if you have a cosmetic, you know, office, if you're a med spa, if you're a cosmetic, derm or plastic surgery office, of course you're incentivized to do what the patient wants. Well, I'm not going to do that. That's not what I do.
Noel King
So you said no to this young woman and sent her on her way.
Ryan Reynolds
Yes.
Noel King
Which means you may get paid for seeing her in that visit, but you're not getting paid for putting filler in her face.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Of course.
Noel King
I think what I hear you saying is other doctors would have done that.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Absolutely. Oh, 100%.
Nordstrom Rack Advertiser
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Dr. Michelle Huri
And I know this for a fact because many times those patients will come to my office to get that filler dissolved because they don't like it in the larger practices or practices that are private equity owned, which is a huge problem in medicine. You are absolutely meant to sell as many products, as many procedures as possible. Oftentimes, I was told to sell as much filler as possible.
Babbel Advertiser
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Dr. Michelle Huri
Because every syringe is several hundred dollars, you know, and then if they're there, talk them into a laser, talk them into this, talk them into that. Then you become a salesman. I mean, I was even told for my skin check patients, you know, I'm looking for skin cancer. I'm, you know, counseling them on how to take care of their skin. I was told, don't talk to them about using sunscreen. No, because we want them to. They. We want them to get skin cancer and come back. I was pulled out of a room. I was pulled out of the room by my boss and reprimanded for explaining why it's so important to use sunscreen. And so this is why I couldn't do it anymore. I had to start my own office and be on my own. I can't do that. That goes against everything that I believe in, my oath. Because there is harm, potential harm on many different levels for cosmetic procedures.
Noel King
What are the risks here to giving someone a cosmetic procedure that, you know, they don't really need?
Dr. Michelle Huri
Well, I mean, there are just issues with cosmetic procedures in general, whether they need it or they don't. You think about, this is a medical procedure. There is always risk for any type of intervention, right? So what gets me is like, Nordstrom is talking about having, you know, injections in their. In their stores. Like, this is some sideshow thing. This is ridiculous. This is a medical procedure. You can get infection, you can get vascular occlusion. That can lead to death of the tissue overlying where you inject it can lead to blindness. This is like a big deal. Of course, it's fairly safe if you know what you're doing, but not everyone knows what they're doing and knows how to handle the problems, the complications that can come about. So beyond that, you have financial issues. If someone does baby botox in their 20s and they want to do it for a long time, you think about how much cost that is. If you're spending five, six hundred dollars every three or four months, that's a lot of money, especially today. And then, honestly, I feel like the psychological aspect of it is a big problem, right? So at some point, you become dependent almost on these procedures to either feel happy or feel good about yourself. At what point is it kind of be not enough? Right. So you're gonna do more and more and more, and then you're not gonna look like yourself. And it's going to be a point where you look in the mirror and it's not you. One of my colleagues actually coined this term. It's called perception drift. At some point, you will do these Little, little, you know, incremental treatments until the end, you are entirely different person. You look like a different person and you might look very abnormal. Yeah. Right. So even if someone comes to me for something that is legitimate, it's still, once you start, it's going to be hard for you to stop. So if you're barely able to scrimp together enough to pay for that one thing and you have it done, great. What about all the rest of your life that you're going to want to do something? Are you going to be able to manage it?
Noel King
I wonder how all of this makes you think about your profession. I mean, most people get into medicine has always been my assumption to help people to be helpful. And you've laid out a world in which procedures are being done that are not only not helpful, they could be dangerous. And you don't seem to like it very much.
Dr. Michelle Huri
Yeah. And this is why it is a smaller and smaller and smaller percentage of what I do in my office. I love cosmetics to an extent. Right. So I love to augment, make people love how they look. But when you start using cosmetics as a tool to make them feel better about themselves in a major way and that they need these sort of things to, you know, validate themselves, it's a slippery slope. It should be more of a targeted thing, not making you look like an entirely different person because, you know, society has told you you can't age, that, you know, women just can't age, which is just, you know, it's really disturbing to me. Foreign.
Noel King
That was Dr. Michelle Hurie. Amanda Llewellyn produced today's show. Amina El Saadi edited Andrea Christensdotter and Patrick Boyd Engineered today's episode was a rerun. We'll be back with new shows on Monday. The rest of our team includes Abishai Artsy, Hadi Mwagdi, Miles Bryan, Peter Balan on Rosen, Patrick Boyd, Danielle Hewitt, Kelly Wessinger, Arianna Espudu, David Tadashore, Dustin DeSoto, Ested Herndon and Sean Ramis firm. Jolie Myers is our deputy EP. Our executive producer is Miranda Kennedy. We use music by Breakmaster Cylinder. I'm Noel King. Today Explained is distributed by WNYC and the show is a part of the Vox Media Podcast Network. Podcast.voxmedia.com Sign up Listen ad free@vox.com Members.
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This episode of Vox's Today, Explained, hosted by Noel King, investigates the growing phenomenon of "baby Botox"—the trend of younger women in their 20s and 30s turning to small-dose Botox as a preventive anti-aging measure. With insight from Yasmin Tayag (The Atlantic), the episode explores how cultural pressures, technology, and the beauty industry are reshaping attitudes toward cosmetic procedures. Dermatologist Dr. Michelle Huri also joins to discuss the medical, psychological, and ethical impacts of this trend.
Amanda's Experience
Amanda Llewellyn recounts being swept up by a high-pressure skincare salesman, highlighting the persistent societal pressure to “fix your face,” even for someone relatively young:
"He tells me this stuff costs $1,300, but it is so worth it because you won't need Botox for another three years." (00:35–00:44)
Botox Out in the Open
Yasmin Tayag observes a marked shift from secrecy to openness about cosmetic procedures among women in their 20s and 30s:
“Everyone I spoke to was very happy to tell me that they've been doing baby Botox since their mid-20s.” (02:53)
Where Botox was once a hush-hush indulgence (often paid for with cash to hide from family), it’s now shared openly in social circles.
“If you begin using it before you start forming wrinkles...you will not develop those wrinkles as long as you keep up the Botox.” (03:00–03:23)
Influence of Reality TV and Social Media
The shift is amplified by celebrities and reality stars (Vanderpump Rules, Real Housewives) openly discussing cosmetic treatments, making them feel mainstream and accessible. (05:12–05:30)
Social networks and tech like ring lights, filters, and the constant scrutiny of Zoom calls have made people hyper-aware of their appearance:
“Our culture has just become so visual. We're always looking at faces on social media, juxtaposed with those of celebrities who look incredible...” (06:41–07:11)
Funny Cultural Commentary
Noel King jokes about returning to the days of poor lighting, blurring imperfections instead of highlighting them:
“We need to return to the days of poor lighting... Everything gets blurry anyway.” (07:22–07:29)
Popularity and Accessibility
Usage among people in their 20s jumped by 71% between 2019 and 2022:
“The number of people in their 20s who got Botox rose 71%.” (07:57)
Despite high living costs and inflation, many justify the cost as comparable to or cheaper than other beauty treatments:
“If you take it in the context of other cosmetics...$200 isn't that big a leap...” (09:03–09:38)
Uncertainty About Long-Term Effects
There’s a lack of data on what decades of regular Botox use might do, since the trend is relatively new:
“We don’t really know that much about the long term effects...There just hasn’t been enough time.” (10:05)
Chasing the Aging Process:
Use can become a moving target—preventing wrinkles in one spot might cause new signs of aging elsewhere:
“If you paralyze the muscles in one part of your face...other muscles can try to compensate. You’ll start seeing wrinkles in those areas.” (10:25–10:44)
Psychological Toll:
The trend risks sparking an “arms race” to look youthful, potentially raising the stakes and pressures for future generations to maintain a perpetually young look.
“If baby botoxing becomes a bigger trend, could it become...an arms race?” (11:05)
Yasmin recaps concerns about losing the dignity and privilege that sometimes comes with visible aging:
“If you manage to stay looking 20 for the next 30 years...what do you miss out on? ...As I got older, I found that people treated me differently, often in a positive way.” (12:56–13:35)
Dr. Michelle Huri’s Experience & Concerns
Dr. Huri noticed a marked increase in young, cosmetically motivated patients after the pandemic and widespread adoption of digital communication (Zoom, TikTok):
“I didn’t start seeing that uptick of younger cosmetic patients until the pandemic.” (15:50–16:02)
She shares an anecdote about a young woman obsessed with a “phantom” facial crease, raising concerns about body image distortion:
“She was just...pointing to her cheek as if there was something there, but there was nothing there. It’s a phantom nasolabial fold. It didn’t exist.” (17:40–18:09)
Commercialization and Harm in Cosmetic Practice
Huri explains that cosmetic clinics are often incentivized to upsell procedures, sometimes at a patient’s expense:
“In the larger practices...private equity owned...You are absolutely meant to sell as many products, as many procedures as possible.” (19:27–19:56)
She shares her discomfort—and actions taken—when instructed to withhold medically necessary advice to boost profits (e.g., discouraging sunscreen use):
“I was told, 'Don’t talk to them about using sunscreen...We want them to get skin cancer and come back.'” (20:06–20:25) “This goes against everything that I believe in, my oath.” (20:40)
Risks and Downsides
Dr. Huri stresses both the medical risks (infection, tissue damage, blindness), financial burden, and psychological dependency that come with starting young:
“At some point, you become dependent...And then you’re going to look in the mirror and it’s not you.” (22:02–22:29)
The psychological effect of repeated, incremental changes—dubbed “perception drift”—can lead to people no longer recognizing themselves:
“At some point, you will do these little treatments until you are an entirely different person.” (22:49)
Yasmin Tayag on the changing secrecy around Botox:
“We would have women come in paying in cash because they didn’t want their husbands or family members to know...” (04:04)
On social media’s role in rising self-scrutiny:
“You're looking at your face constantly.” (05:51)
On the economic normalization of expensive beauty routines:
“In New York City, at least a mani-pedi can go for $100 easily.” (09:09)
On insecurity and competition:
“She felt like she was in competition with women to look youthful... They’ve got a head start.” (11:51–12:07)
Dr. Huri on medical ethics:
“Providers need to say no. Unfortunately, they’re incentivized not to.” (18:18)
On the risk of psychological change:
“It’s going to be a point where you look in the mirror and it’s not you.” (22:23)
This episode offers a nuanced look at the “rise of baby Botox,” weaving together personal stories, journalistic investigation, and critical medical insight. It reveals how shifting norms (bolstered by social platforms and reality TV) have made Botox not only more accepted, but also seemingly imperative for younger generations. Amid glowing skin and social conformity lurk unanswered questions about psychological well-being, the medical risks of preventative cosmetic procedures, and the ethical quandaries providers face. As Dr. Huri concludes, the procedures meant to empower can, if unchecked, become yet another engine of insecurity.
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