Lyra Smith (15:29)
Interesting. Unless you lived in New York, I mean, what your street saw was like, dependent on the neighborhood you lived in, because of course you're getting this broadcast. Like, everything is so delayed. You're dependent on magazines. And if you're outside sort of the New York indie magazine scene, you know, you're looking to Vogue was, you know, you'd run I have entire issues of Vogue committed to memory. You'd run to the magazine store, you'd get it in the mail, and it would be the thing you would have for a month. And I remember when W magazine launched or relaunched sort of in the mid-90s with that bigger format, and it looked. It was so interesting because it had sort of a different vibe and it felt edgier. And Kate Moss, of course, was, you know, the edgy model at the time. And a lot of it was coming through music videos. So you're looking at sort of the, you know, the grunge era of the early 90s, which was fun and very, you know, like Winona Ryder and. And, you know, Ethan Hawkman and not say anything. What was their famous reality? Reality Bites. But so this comes along and it's like, well. And then, of course, she's on the arm of JFK Jr. Who, even if you're not a Kennedy, you know, I'm Canadian. And so I was. This was all coming to me at university in Vancouver, you know, in 1996. And like, you have a vague awareness of what the Kennedys mean. And he had launched George magazine, you know, a year earlier. But you don't really understand the vernacular of all this because we did not have access to information in the same way. So you just are responding to all this much differently and like, parsing little phrases in Vogue. Like the early. The opening pages of Vogue were sort of, I guess, an early version of street style, but they were really peopled by, like, Upper east side socialites. Like, my knowledge of Upper east side socialites in 1996 is bizarrely comprehensive because they still wielded power in a way that they absolutely do not know. And so that I think because of that, she sort of blasted onto the scene in this very clean image. It's interesting to me that these three women that I think dominated the second half of the 90s were all new York based and all came through Calvin Klein to some degree. Right? You've got Kate Moss, who was sort of grungy but was making that shift in the mid-90s. Gwynneth came up and again, Gwyneth's another person who was much more. People were much more aware of within New York because she was a New Yorker who went to Spence. Remember when I lived in Williamsburg in the late 90s, all of these Spence graduates who were sort of rebelling against their family by moving to Brooklyn, all had a lot of opinions about Gwyneth because they rubbed shoulders with her at Spence at some Time. So you have, like, this insular world of New York colliding with sort of a global awareness. But I think Carolyn, more than Gwyneth, had a very, like, a strict, almost an armor. She shifted. You know, she left Calvin Klein six months before the wedding, quit her job, and never appeared in Calvin again. Right. Like, she shifted and started almost exclusively wearing Yoji and Prada after that, which is a really mature fashion decisions that you weren't seeing. I mean, Gwyneth is, you know, 10 years or years younger, was much more in sort of like experimenting. But they all came through this, you know, this Calvin Klein machine to some degree. And it's worth remembering that in the mid-90s, Calvin was the most powerful fashion person, you know, not just in America, in the world. And, you know, those famous white offices, I think they were at 60th and I want to say Madison and, like, rumor had it that he had there was like, the beautiful floor at Calvin that everyone had to work on that floor to be beautiful. And, like, Carolyn was ruling the roost and she was his muse. And so there's all, you know, the insider gossip that you would get, you would brush up against that would have made no sense to anyone else, you know, outside the confines of a rather insular world at the time.