Amsterdam is one of Europe’s most overtouristed cities—but it’s also so much more than the crowds in the city center suggest. On this episode of Unpacked—part of Afar’s ongoing Off the Tourist Trail series—host Aislyn Greene is joined by journalist Blane Bachelor, who moved to Amsterdam during the pandemic and has spent years navigating life as a resident. She shares how to experience the real Amsterdam—the neighborhoods, restaurants, and rhythms that exist just beyond the tourist-packed city center.

In this episode, you’ll learn

• Why Amsterdam’s overtourism problem is really concentrated in just a few city-center neighborhoods—and how to avoid them

• The best neighborhoods to stay in, including the artsy Noord and the very-Dutch Oost

• When to visit for fewer crowds: the Amsterdam Light Festival in November and King’s Day in April

• How to experience the Red Light District (De Wallen) thoughtfully and with historical context

• The unwritten rules of cycling in Amsterdam—and why this is not the place to shake off the cobwebs

• Where locals actually eat and drink, including a 17th-century gilded unicorn and a cash-only Dutch bar

Episode chapters

00:00 Introduction

04:30 Amsterdam's overtourism problem

12:00 Best neighborhoods to stay in: Oost and Noord

15:00 Best times to visit

21:00 Where to stay: hotels vs. Airbnb

24:30 First-timer tips for the Anne Frank House and Rijksmuseum

29:00 Navigating the Red Light District (De Wallen)

40:30 Dutch culture: directness, English fluency, and learning a few words

43:00 Cycling in Amsterdam: rules, etiquette, and survival tips

Resources

• Read Blaine’s Amsterdam Off the Beaten Path story on afar.com

• Follow Blaine’s Dutch adventures on Instagram

• Check out our Iceland and England Off the Tourist Trail episodes

Where to Stay

• Rosewood Amsterdam — The last hotel to be built in Amsterdam due to overtourism restrictions

• Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht — Playful Dutch-designed interiors; canal-view rooms feel like you’re on the water

• The Hoxton, Amsterdam — Two locations; the Eastern Docklands outpost is a local favorite

• Hotel Arena — In Oost; known for its exceptional weekend brunch buffet

What to Do

• Anne Frank House — Book immediately; tickets drop every Tuesday at 10 AM Amsterdam time, six weeks out

• Rijksmuseum — Check for evening hours for a slightly less hectic visit

• Prostitution Information Centre (De Wallen) — A thoughtful entry point into De Wallen’s history and culture

• Vintage salon boat canal tours — Go small and guided; avoid the large party “buses”

• Amsterdam Light Festival — November–January; illuminated art along the canals

• King’s Day (Koningsdag) — April 27; street markets, orange everything, genuinely local vibe

• Free ferries from Amsterdam Centraal to Noord — Walk or ride your bike on; no ticket needed

• Tulip fields near Keukenhof — View from the field edges in spring; don’t walk into the flowers

• SAIL Amsterdam 2030 — The world’s largest maritime event, returning in 2030

Stay Connected

• Sign up for Behind the Mic, our podcast newsletter with episode news and behind-the-scenes details.

• Also from Afar: View From Afar (the future of travel) and Travel Tales (first-person travel stories).

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Beyond the Canals: An Insider’s Guide to Amsterdam’s Real Neighborhoods