Podcast Summary: What We Wore – Episode 145: Lee Mathews | 25 Years of Staying True
Host: Laura Vinroot Poole
Guest: Lee Mathews, Australian Designer
Release Date: July 23, 2024
1. Introduction to Lee Mathews
In Episode 145 of What We Wore, host Laura Vinroot Poole engages in an insightful conversation with Australian fashion designer Lee Mathews. Celebrating over 25 years in the fashion industry, Lee shares her journey from her early beginnings to establishing a respected name in fashion, emphasizing the importance of staying true to one's vision and understanding what women truly want to wear.
2. Early Life and Influences
Lee Mathews, originally from Belfast, Northern Ireland, provides a glimpse into her multicultural heritage and formative years. Her family relocated to British Columbia, Canada, during her childhood, where she experienced a nomadic lifestyle due to her father's work in hydroelectric dam construction. This transient upbringing in "incredibly beautiful" but isolated settings left a profound impact on her.
"We lived up in the middle of nowhere, on a river... an incredibly beautiful everythingness."
– Lee Mathews [01:39]
At the age of 11, Lee moved to New Zealand to live with her grandparents, marking a significant shift from the stark landscapes of Canada to the lush environments of New Zealand. This transition was pivotal, fostering her independence and sparking her interest in various creative pursuits beyond sewing and fashion.
3. Transition into Fashion and Career at Vogue
Lee's journey into fashion began unconventionally. Despite her early passion for swimming and interest in illustration, she found herself gravitating towards fashion through her grandmother's influence. Her grandmother, an avid seamstress, instilled in Lee a love for sewing, teaching her on a Treadle Singer machine.
"I didn't know any better; if you could hold a scalpel and slap a bit of glue on something, you could get a job."
– Lee Mathews [06:02]
After relocating to Australia at 19, Lee stumbled into a position at Vogue magazine. Although her role initially involved low-level graphic design, she leveraged this opportunity to deepen her connection with the fashion industry, eventually transitioning into illustration and art direction.
"I enjoyed it. I was very much a... vintage clothes shopper... I did alter everything."
– Lee Mathews [10:18]
4. Starting Her Own Fashion Line and Stores
Driven by a desire to create garments that resonated with her personal aesthetic, Lee began designing and sewing clothes in her garage. This passion project evolved into a tangible business as she hosted informal tea parties at home, where friends would purchase her creations. Encouraged by the positive reception, Lee opened her first store in Newport, followed by additional locations in Paddington and Melbourne.
"It was really interesting. I learned so much having that store. It was like an incubator for everything that has happened since."
– Lee Mathews [17:32]
Over approximately eight years, Lee expanded her retail presence, managing multiple stores and overseeing the growth of her brand. Her hands-on approach and deep understanding of her clientele allowed her to maintain a loyal customer base that appreciated her unique designs.
5. Challenges in the Fashion Industry
Lee candidly discusses the inherent challenges of running a fashion business, especially as it scaled. Balancing creative design with the operational demands of multiple stores required adaptability and resilience. She emphasizes the importance of surrounding herself with trustworthy and honest team members to navigate the complexities of the industry.
"Honesty and trust are essential because the moment that it wavers, everything goes to hell."
– Lee Mathews [25:08]
6. Adaptation During the Pandemic and Re-focusing on Design
The COVID-19 pandemic posed unprecedented challenges for the fashion industry, forcing Lee to reassess and relearn various aspects of her business. The shift to online retail and changing consumer behaviors necessitated a hands-on approach to understanding each department within her company. This period of introspection allowed Lee to reconnect with her core passion for design, leading to a renewed focus on creating collections that truly reflect her vision.
"It has been a real relearning, and it's been a good thing, actually."
– Lee Mathews [23:13]
Lee highlights the importance of maintaining a direct connection with customers by managing her physical stores, which provides immediate feedback and inspiration for her designs.
7. Leadership and Team Management Philosophy
Central to Lee's success is her leadership philosophy centered on honesty and mutual trust. She believes that fostering an environment where team members feel comfortable expressing their thoughts and admitting mistakes is crucial for both personal and professional growth.
"Mutual trust and honesty between people that hold really great positions within your business and therefore your life. It's kind of a pinnacle of relationship building."
– Lee Mathews [25:08]
Lee credits her ability to attract and retain exceptional team members to this commitment to honesty, which ensures that her business operations run smoothly and authentically.
8. Personal Insights and Anecdotes
Towards the end of the conversation, Lee shares a nostalgic story about her prom attire in New Zealand—a unique, multicolored seersucker dress handmade by her grandmother. This anecdote underscores the lasting influence of her grandmother's craftsmanship on her design ethos.
"The dress was great. In fact, I want to bring that dress back."
– Lee Mathews [33:47]
Additionally, Lee touches upon her creative outlets beyond fashion, such as writing a cookbook and experimenting with ceramics, highlighting her multifaceted artistic interests.
9. Conclusion
In this engaging episode, Lee Mathews offers a heartfelt narrative of her 25-year journey in fashion, marked by resilience, authenticity, and a steadfast commitment to her creative vision. Her experiences serve as an inspiring testament to the importance of staying true to oneself amidst the evolving dynamics of the fashion industry.
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