Podcast Summary: What We Wore – Episode 153: Clare V | Starting Small

Introduction

In Episode 153 of "What We Wore," host Laura Vinroot Poole sits down with Claire Vivier, the visionary founder of Claire V—a brand synonymous with meticulously crafted handbags and a testament to starting small and dreaming big. Claire shares her inspiring journey from sewing bags in her home to leading a thriving business with locations in Los Angeles and Charlotte, supported by a dedicated team of 140 employees.

Early Life and Education

Claire Vivier's roots trace back to St. Paul, Minnesota, where she was born the youngest of six children in a progressive household. Her parents, originally from Indiana, fostered an environment rich in creativity and free thinking. Claire fondly recalls her upbringing:

"I had a lot of freedom because I think they were just tired of being strict. So I got to just kind of do whatever I want." [03:02]

She attended the Open School, a progressive K-12 institution that allowed her to explore subjects at her own pace, nurturing her innate creativity. It was here that Claire first learned to sew, a skill that would become the cornerstone of her future business.

Journey into Fashion

Driven by a passion for fashion and storytelling, Claire pursued an English degree at the University of San Francisco, initially aspiring to be a writer focused on fashion. While in college, she balanced her studies with work in cafes and restaurants, gaining a deep appreciation for California cuisine and culture.

"I always waited tables. I always worked in cafes and worked at restaurants in San Francisco, which was also a really great education in, you know, you." [10:19]

However, the evolving digital landscape and diminishing prospects in traditional editorial roles led her to pivot. In a bold move reflecting her early twenties' fearlessness, Claire relocated to Paris without fluency in the language, seeking to immerse herself in the heart of the fashion world.

Starting Claire Vivier

In Paris, Claire's ambitions took flight. She secured an internship at a documentary film production company and began sewing bags as a hobby, driven by a creative spark. A pivotal moment occurred when she found $400 on the street in Oakland, which she immediately invested in a high-quality sewing machine, transforming her hobby into a burgeoning business.

"I used that $400 to buy a nice sewing machine. And I went that day and bought a good sewing machine. And that was really with this dream of, you know, making more bags and starting this bag company." [15:09]

Claire launched her brand under her full name, Claire Vivier, focusing initially on laptop envelopes and gradually expanding her product line. Her dedication and eye for detail quickly garnered attention, leading to press features in platforms like Daily Candy.

Transition to Claire V and Legal Challenges

As Claire Vivier's brand grew, so did its recognition. However, this success brought unforeseen challenges. In 2013, the brand faced a significant legal hurdle when the renowned brand Roger Vivier sued Claire Vivier for trademark infringement.

"Roger Vivier, which is their term. And I really thought, well, this is crazy. That's my name." [24:18]

Given the formidable reputation and resources of Roger Vivier, Claire opted to rebrand, shortening her company's name to Claire V. Despite the emotional attachment to her original name, Claire viewed the change as a necessary step to continue her brand's trajectory without prolonged legal battles.

"I settled very quickly. And I mean, I sometimes miss Vivier. I think it's such a pretty name, but it's still my name." [24:09]

Building the Business and Partnerships

Central to Claire V's growth was the strategic partnership with Tom Cartsotis, introduced by mentor Stephen Allen. Tom's investment and expertise provided the necessary support to navigate the complexities of scaling a fashion business.

"Tom owned 33%, Stephen owned seven, and I owned 60%." [33:32]

This partnership facilitated crucial aspects like employee healthcare, financial management, and operational expansion. Claire acknowledges the importance of recognizing her strengths and delegating areas where she required assistance.

"I have a very... my gift is that I'm able to just be like, okay, I can't do anything about that right now." [30:17]

Growing the Business

From operating out of her home, Claire V swiftly transitioned to dedicated retail spaces. The first store in Silver Lake marked a significant milestone, embodying the brand's ethos of creativity and community engagement.

"The stakes are higher and the square footage is a lot right now, but there's... the same feeling of, oh my gosh, are we really going to be doing this?" [27:32]

Today, with over 140 employees, Claire emphasizes the importance of compartmentalizing responsibilities to maintain clarity and focus. Her ability to manage and lead a diverse team has been pivotal in sustaining the brand's growth.

"One of my business talents is that I'm able to compartmentalize, and I think it works to my advantage a lot because I think that's how I sleep at night." [30:14]

Reflections on Entrepreneurship and Starting Small

Claire vividly reflects on the advantages of starting small, noting that it allows for a deep understanding of every facet of the business. This foundational knowledge fosters empathy and respect for all team members, regardless of their roles.

"When you start small, you do understand every aspect of the company. And so you can have a lot of respect and a lot of empathy for people and all the roles in those in the company." [39:14]

She highlights that beginning without excessive capital enabled her to maintain creative control and build the brand organically, ensuring that every product detail aligned with her vision.

Personal Anecdotes and Inspirations

Beyond business, Claire shares heartfelt memories that have shaped her personal and professional life. She reminisces about her prom dress—a cherished garment inherited from her mother—and the joy it brought her, symbolizing her lifelong connection to fashion.

"I wore my mother's. One of my mother's dresses from the 50s. It was a beautiful strapless cabbage roses silk chiffon fitted with a 50s, like, tea length." [41:34]

Additionally, the influence of her family's artistic inclinations and her father's belief in the limitless potential of his children underscores the supportive environment that fueled her entrepreneurial spirit.

Future Aspirations

Looking ahead, Claire expresses a desire to expand Claire V internationally, with a particular fondness for establishing a flagship store in Paris's Marais district. She envisions this expansion not only as a business growth opportunity but also as a way to reconnect with the city that played a pivotal role in her brand's inception.

"I would love to open in Paris... especially because I made them in canvas. I can draw from them now as inspiration." [37:12]

Conclusion

Claire Vivier's journey is a compelling narrative of passion, resilience, and strategic growth. From humble beginnings in Minnesota to leading a prominent fashion brand, her story exemplifies the essence of starting small and nurturing a vision with unwavering dedication. "What We Wore" offers listeners valuable insights into the challenges and triumphs of building a successful business, inspiring aspiring entrepreneurs to pursue their dreams with integrity and creativity.

Notable Quotes:

• "I learned to sew in grade school." – Claire Vivier [06:19]
• "I can just do whatever I want." – Claire Vivier [03:02]
• "Roger Vivier was suing me for trademark infringement." – Claire Vivier [24:18]
• "When you start small, you do understand every aspect of the company." – Claire Vivier [39:14]
• "I do love what I do so much." – Claire Vivier [21:59]

Key Takeaways:

• Starting Small: Claire emphasizes the benefits of starting a business on a manageable scale, allowing for comprehensive understanding and control over every aspect.

• Adaptability: The ability to pivot—from aspiring writer to fashion entrepreneur—highlighted Claire's adaptability and courage in the face of changing industries.

• Strategic Partnerships: Forming alliances with partners like Tom Cartsotis was crucial for Claire V's expansion and operational efficiency.

• Creative Control: Maintaining creative autonomy was essential for Claire, ensuring that every product remained true to her vision.

• Work-Life Balance: Despite the demands of running a large team, Claire's ability to compartmentalize helped her manage stress and maintain focus.

Final Thoughts

Claire Vivier's story is a testament to the power of passion fused with strategic business acumen. Her journey offers valuable lessons on resilience, the importance of supportive partnerships, and the impact of starting with a clear, authentic vision. As Claire V continues to grow, her story remains an inspiring blueprint for aspiring entrepreneurs in the fashion industry and beyond.