Podcast Summary: What We Wore – Episode 158: Mary Katrantzou | An Independent Voice
Release Date: June 26, 2025
In this insightful episode of What We Wore, host Laura Vinroot Poole engages in a profound conversation with Mary Katrantzou, a London-based independent designer renowned for her eponymous brand that has been a distinctive force in the fashion industry for nearly two decades. Mary shares her journey, influences, challenges, and the evolution of her creative vision, offering listeners an authentic glimpse into the world of high fashion and independent design.
Reconnecting and Early Days in Fashion
Mary reflects on her long-standing relationship with Laura and her early experiences in the fashion industry.
00:05 – 01:00
Mary begins by reminiscing about her first meeting with Laura during the inaugural season of the podcast. She expresses nostalgia and appreciation for reconnecting after many years, highlighting how pivotal those early steps were in her career.
“It's been for so many years. But it's so nice to reconnect.”
– Mary Katrantzou [00:31]
Laura and Mary reminisce about the vibrant London fashion scene, mentioning contemporaries like Christopher Kane, Erdem, and Peter Pilato, emphasizing the camaraderie that made London Fashion Week exceptional.
Heritage and Influences
Mary delves into how her Greek heritage and family background have shaped her aesthetic and career.
02:17 – 04:48
Originally from Greece, Mary discusses how her upbringing surrounded by rich history fostered her appreciation for symmetry, harmony, and storytelling in design. She draws parallels between her work and the legacy of Bulgari, underscoring the cultural synergy between Greece and Italy.
“My heritage is deeply rooted in Greece, and it's really shaped my aesthetic profoundly.”
– Mary Katrantzou [02:51]
Mary credits her creative environment, with a mother who is an interior designer, a grandmother who was a ceramicist, and a father trained as a textile engineer, for nurturing her inquisitive nature toward design.
Educational Journey and Career Pivot
Mary shares her path from studying architecture to becoming a fashion designer, highlighting pivotal moments during her education.
05:56 – 07:43
Initially pursuing architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), Mary's trajectory shifted when she met her husband and participated in an exchange program at Central Saint Martins. This experience exposed her to textile design, bridging her architectural studies with fashion.
“Deciding to join the infamous MA Fashion course at Central Saint Martins was really the beginning of everything.”
– Mary Katrantzou [09:48]
Mary discusses the influence of Louise Wilson, her mentor at Central Saint Martins, who encouraged her to open her first fashion show despite industry trends leaning towards minimalism.
Breakthrough and Establishing Her Brand
Mary recounts the creation of her first collection and the challenges of launching an independent brand during economic downturns.
10:11 – 16:23
Mary describes her debut collection featuring oversized trompe l'oeil jewelry pieces, which defied the minimalistic trends of the time. She credits the economic recession as a fortuitous backdrop that allowed visionary buyers to embrace her unique designs without hefty investments.
“The print was very image-led and precision engineered to your body to allow a woman to feel confident.”
– Mary Katrantzou [12:18]
She emphasizes the importance of maintaining independence to preserve her brand's unique voice, while also engaging in strategic collaborations with entities like the New York City Ballet and Bulgari to reach broader audiences.
Support and Mentorship
Mary highlights the crucial role of mentors and industry veterans in her sustained success.
16:23 – 18:40
Mary expresses gratitude towards Louise Wilson and Sarah Moore, who provided critical support and mentorship during her formative years. She also acknowledges Nathalie Massenet and other industry leaders who championed her work.
“It's not just a piece of advice, it's just how you are embraced.”
– Mary Katrantzou [17:15]
This network of support has been instrumental in helping her navigate the complexities of maintaining an independent brand while fostering creative growth.
Balancing Creativity and Business
Mary discusses the challenges of staying true to her creative vision while managing the operational aspects of her business.
18:50 – 20:12
Mary identifies the struggle of balancing innovation with maintaining her brand's core identity. She underscores the importance of a strong ethical compass and respectful business practices towards her team and customers.
“Just being in business and wanting to do that in the most respectful manner to your team, to the people who believe in you, to the women who buy your clothes.”
– Mary Katrantzou [19:45]
Personal Transformation and New Challenges
Mary shares how becoming a mother and taking on the role of Creative Director at Bulgari transformed her approach to design and business.
20:16 – 26:34
The birth of Mary’s son marked a significant turning point, allowing her to reassess her priorities and adopt a different pace in both her personal and professional life. This period also coincided with her appointment as Creative Director for leather goods and accessories at Bulgari, a role she embraced as the perfect new challenge.
“His arrival changed everything... I feel today more creative than ever.”
– Mary Katrantzou [20:54]
At Bulgari, Mary leveraged the brand’s dual Greek and Roman roots to innovate accessory designs, fostering a blend of timeless craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics.
“There's a love of craftsmanship and timelessness in everything that Bulgari do.”
– Mary Katrantzou [24:34]
Sustaining an Independent Brand
Mary reflects on maintaining her independent brand alongside her role at Bulgari, emphasizing the importance of timeless design.
26:34 – 29:14
Mary discusses how her experience at Bulgari reinforced her commitment to creating timeless pieces that transcend seasonal trends. She values the longevity and cross-generational appeal of her designs, finding fulfillment in seeing her creations worn by multiple generations.
“If you look at it like that, you're really creating pieces that should be timeless in a woman's wardrobe.”
– Mary Katrantzou [27:45]
Approaching two decades in the fashion industry, Mary prides herself on being an independent female voice, sustaining her brand’s unique identity while adapting to the evolving landscape of fashion.
Concluding Insights and Personal Anecdotes
In a light-hearted exchange, Mary shares a personal memory from her youth, showcasing her authentic and relatable personality.
29:14 – 33:34
The conversation takes a playful turn as Mary recounts her prom (or equivalent) attire, revealing her rare appearance in pink during her teenage years. This anecdote underscores her long-standing affinity for bold color choices, a signature element of her design ethos.
“I will just tell you that the color was pink, believe it or not. I don't think everyone has ever seen me in pink.”
– Mary Katrantzou [32:35]
Final Thoughts
Mary expresses her gratitude and summarizes her journey, emphasizing the importance of trust, innovation, and maintaining an authentic voice in the fashion industry.
“It means we're doing something right.”
– Mary Katrantzou [31:26]
Mary Katrantzou’s story is a testament to the power of creativity, independence, and resilience in the fashion world. Her dedication to maintaining her unique voice while embracing new challenges continues to inspire aspiring designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Connect with Mary Katrantzou and What We Wore:
- Instagram: @shopcapitol | @whatweworepodcast
- Website: QueenCityPodcastNetwork.com