Podcast Summary: What We Wore – Episode 166
Guest: Marianne McDonald (Creative Director, Citizens of Humanity)
Host: Laura Vinroot Poole
Date: November 4, 2025
Theme: The Business of Denim — A Journey from Oregon to the Helm of Modern Denim Design
Episode Overview
This episode of What We Wore explores the life and career of Marianne McDonald, a pioneering force in the denim industry. With roots that trace from Eugene, Oregon’s casual counterculture to leading iconic brands like Gap and Citizens of Humanity, Marianne discusses her unique perspective on design, entrepreneurship, sustainability, women in business, and the evolving landscape of denim. Laura Vinroot Poole guides a conversational, insightful journey uncovering both the business acumen and personal stories that shape Marianne’s approach to denim.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Early Life & Style Influences
- Marianne grew up in Eugene, Oregon, a “hippie town” where fashion wasn’t a focus (01:01). Her family leaned towards simplicity and progressivism.
- Influence: Casual, natural, and feminine aesthetics combined with an appreciation for function.
“It was that combination of, like, naturalness and femininity that I think kind of influenced my design aesthetic.”
– Marianne McDonald [01:27]
2. Introduction to Fashion & Retail Fundamentals
- First exposure to fashion came via the Eugene “Saturday Market,” then a transformative high school job at Gap (02:43-03:00).
- Working retail taught her structure, customer experience, and behind-the-scenes logistics — essential for any fashion career (03:59-04:48).
“Seeing the shift that takes place in people’s mind as they go from browsing to just feeling like they actually need something…that unlock is like everything in retail.”
– Marianne McDonald [03:59]
3. Breaking into the Industry
- Majored in English Literature but gravitated back to fashion via internships and an entry job at Guess Jeans (05:10-07:25).
- The leap to LA and “full-on 20-year-old LA experience” was both daunting and thrilling, immersing her in the heart of the industry (07:29-08:03).
4. Mentorship & Developing as a Designer
- Critical mentorship at Guess guided her transition from merchandising to design, reinforcing the power of support and practical education (08:45-09:38).
- Realized she’d been mentally designing clothes all her life, formalized via sketch classes and hands-on roles (09:46).
5. Denim Epiphany: From Joe’s Jeans to The Gap
- Unexpectedly thrust into denim at Joe’s Jeans (“back then they would just show you, like, raw pieces of denim. And it was literally like all blue to me.” [13:01]).
- Learned that designing denim was about body architecture and creating an aspirational silhouette — not just clothing (13:36).
6. High-Paced Fashion: Thrills and Demands
- The pace in design fueled her creativity — managing deadlines, collections, and approvals across seasons (15:03-15:55).
- Preference for environments where things “always need to get done, lines have to ship.”
7. Leading Denim at The Gap
- At Gap, promoted to Design Director for Women’s Denim, redefining the “1969” lineup and targeting an American refresh (16:17-19:10).
- Emphasized team collaboration, learning from creative directors, merchandisers, and international experiences (17:48-19:46).
- Under her leadership, items like the “boot cut” jean became mass successes, supported by major campaigns (22:26-23:02).
“We’ve got to have some change…in my mind, like, I was like, this stuff is not cool or not sexy, if I’m totally blunt. And I saw that as, like, my mission…”
– Marianne McDonald [19:07]
8. The Power, Challenges, and Universality of Denim
- Denim is a deeply personal purchase: “people want to be a sexier, hotter version of themselves, and that’s really what will make them say, I need this pair of jeans.” [24:14]
- Unlike other clothing, jeans are constant companions and have transformative power (25:36).
9. Launching Her Own Brand: McGuire Denim
- After five years at Gap, founded McGuire, aiming to blend utility with luxury, while raising a young family (26:45-29:08).
- Lessons learned: entrepreneurship requires finance know-how, patience for cash flow cycles, and humility in partnership selection. Admits naiveté but celebrates the courage to try (29:32-31:26).
“I think just having the balls to go do it.”
– Marianne McDonald [31:26]
10. Citizens of Humanity: Leadership and Vision
- Joined Citizens as Creative Director, appreciating its commitment to authenticity and sustainability (32:03–33:01).
- Day-to-day: Inspiration gathering, fittings, team collaboration, and creative problem-solving (33:40–34:24).
- Growth focus: Leading a creative—but small—team, cross-pollinating with product developers, and staying inspired through group outings and vintage scouting (35:55–36:50).
11. Sustainability & Regenerative Cotton
- Proud of Citizens’ regenerative cotton program, aiming for industry-wide change (“millions of pounds” grown, other brands benefiting too) (39:48–41:13).
- Sustainability is central to her future legacy.
“It wasn’t with the intention of keeping it just for ourselves. It was really about working with our fabric suppliers so they could bring it to other companies as well.”
– Marianne McDonald [40:29]
12. Fashion Industry Advice & Motherhood
- Fashion suits lifelong learners and “those obsessed with learning things,” as it is problem-solving and fast-moving (41:17–41:28).
- Motherhood offers real-time insight into youth trends and grounds her design in real women's needs (38:51-39:45).
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
On the magic of retail:
“That unlock is like everything in retail, because it’s not something that can be boiled down to, like an algorithm or something formulaic. It’s really about, like, the magic all coming together.”
– Marianne McDonald [03:59] -
On launching her own brand:
“I think just having the balls to go do it.”
– Marianne McDonald [31:26] -
On the challenge and beauty of denim:
“With denim…it’s super polarizing, much like swimwear…people can use denim to find themselves or find how they want to look…when you put on a pair of jeans, that makes you feel incredible, you’re like, that’s me.”
– Marianne McDonald [24:42–25:06] -
On sustainability and legacy:
“Being able to really be a pioneer in this realm is so meaningful to me because it not only means regenerative agriculture, but just a commitment to, like, going after innovation in ways that can help the world and our communities.”
– Marianne McDonald [39:48] -
On advice for aspiring fashion pros:
“If you’re obsessed with learning things, it is one of the most perfect careers…the amount of, like, the world you can see, the people you encounter, the daily problem-solving…”
– Marianne McDonald [41:17]
Highlighted Timestamps for Important Segments
- Marianne’s upbringing and early fashion influences: [00:32–02:26]
- Lessons from working retail at The Gap: [03:00–04:48]
- Making the leap to fashion in LA: [07:25–08:03]
- Mentorship and learning to design: [08:45–09:38]
- Epiphany in denim at Joe’s Jeans: [13:01–13:36]
- Redefining denim at The Gap: [16:17–19:46]
- Boot cut phenomenon and teamwork: [22:26–23:30]
- The emotional impact of good denim: [24:14–25:51]
- Starting McGuire Denim and entrepreneurship insights: [26:45–31:26]
- Citizens of Humanity: Sustainability and legacy: [39:48–41:13]
- Advice for those entering fashion: [41:17–41:28]
Tone & Atmosphere
Warm, candid, and intellectually curious. Laura leads with empathy and genuine enthusiasm. Marianne is open, pragmatic, and insightful, balancing humility (beehive prom story) with confidence and actionable advice.
Conclusion
This episode is both a masterclass in navigating the creative and business sides of fashion and a story about the spirit required to take risks and pursue passion amid challenge. Marianne’s journey shows how denim is more than fabric – it’s identity, culture, and possibility for change.