Podcast Summary: What We Wore

Episode 169: Christophe Desmaison | The Showroom Visionary
Host: Laura Vinroot Poole
Date: December 11, 2025

Overview of the Episode

In this insightful conversation, Laura Vinroot Poole interviews Christophe Desmaison, the founder of CD Network and a key player in the world of fashion showrooms and brand development. They trace Desmaison’s journey from his peripatetic childhood in France to building a globally respected fashion agency, spotlighting both his personal story and his philosophies on discovery, relationships, business resilience, and the future of the fashion industry.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Roots and Early Inspirations (00:57–08:33)

• Background: Christophe was born in Paris and moved frequently due to his father’s job with the postal service—“a little bit like a military family.” [01:22]
• Adaptability: Moving shaped his adaptability and comfort with new people and places—an asset in his later work.

  "You have to be very adaptable...I can enter any kind of settings and find my way." (B, 02:17)

• Family: Eldest of five siblings spanning 15 years. Each sibling had different experiences due to the family's moves. [03:55–04:17]
• First fashion memory: Decisive about his own clothing from a young age; fascinated by fashion in his teens, particularly through the rise of music videos and advertising. [04:39–05:32]

2. Education, Ambition, and Early Career (05:43–15:12)

• French education system: Christophe describes how early specialization in France pushed him toward business and international marketing.
• Drive: "Quite frankly, I was driven by like, achieving a certain level of comfort and...freedom." (B, 07:45)
• Entry into fashion: Started with internships and hustled into fashion business networks, despite no prior connections. [08:24–09:12]
• First job: Managing a Parisian couture store, Jacques Esterel—a challenging baptism by fire, dealing with difficult staff dynamics. [09:52–14:12]

  "I was 22. I know absolutely nothing. I've never worked a day in my life." (B, 10:24) "Within a month, they were both gone. Talking about baptism by fire." (B, 13:19)

3. Paris Store Culture & the Leap to New York (15:12–21:22)

• Paris in the 80s/90s: Describes Parisian retail environment—legendary department stores, the emergence of specialty/multibrand boutiques (Victoire, Maria Luisa), and their influence on his understanding of curation. [15:12–18:00]
• Desire for new experiences: Feeling stagnant in Paris, Christophe decides to move to New York after being inspired by the city’s energy, arriving in 1991 "with three suitcases and no job." (B, 20:20)

  "I'm walking down Broadway...I'm like, this feels so right that you have to live here." (B, 19:15)

4. Failure, Resilience, and Industry Lessons (21:22–29:11)

• First business failure: Opened a small showroom ("Riftoire Agency") in Chelsea—went bankrupt quickly. [21:22–22:56]

  "I went bankrupt very quickly." (B, 21:41)

• Freelancing and learning: Slept on friends’ couches, worked freelance, and gradually built a network. Learnt crucial lessons about contracts, financial health, and realistic expectations with designers. [22:58–24:48]

  "You need to make sure that people sign a contract...that they had the wherewithal to stay the course." (B, 23:22)

• Passion for fashion: Stayed committed to the industry despite hardships, determined not to "go back to Paris defeated and deflated." (B, 25:54)

5. The Role and Art of the Showroom (26:59–29:11)

• Definition: Explains how showrooms curate and represent collections to find the right retail partners, acting as a "curator" to ensure brands complement but do not compete within the showroom. [26:59–28:27]
• Merchandising: Advises designers, adapts assortments and pricing for the American market, and builds lasting relationships—

  "The most important thing, it’s a people’s business...you're only as valuable as your relationships." (B, 29:23–29:39)

6. Growth, Relationships, and Discovery (29:11–31:29)

• Travel and knowledge of US retail landscape: Extensive travel across the US to understand the market, emphasizing discovery and the importance of surprise in retail—

  "One of the beautiful things about what we do is like discovery. Discovery and surprise." (B, 30:23)

• Instilling desire in a digital world: Concerned about how instant access affects younger generations' appreciation for anticipation and delight. [31:18]

7. Golden Goose Success Story (31:33–36:44)

• Pivotal brand: Golden Goose was the “biggest success.” Partnership began in 2003, growing from a niche presence to global brand status—

  "Today it's a $750 million company. We have 58 or 59 stores in North America." (B, 34:13)

• Innovation: Pioneered concepts like 'never on sale' and leveraged scarcity as a business advantage.

  "We were...the first brands to come up with never on sale concepts." (B, 35:43)

• Leadership and legacy: Recognizes the leadership of Silvio Campera and remains “honorary chairman of North America.” [34:38]

8. Family, Cross-Cultural Life & the American Education System (36:49–38:54)

• Personal life: Married to an American book editor, father to two athletic, well-traveled children—contrasting French vs. American approaches to sports and schooling. [37:21–38:54]

9. Challenges and Resilience (39:03–41:41)

• Biggest challenges: The 2008 recession, navigating financial obstacles, and managing growth and expectations for brands.

  “The most important thing is that communication—always...to be upfront and honest.” (B, 39:34)

• Optimism: Sees difficult times as opportunities, e.g., signing new leases after economic downturns. [41:28]

10. Future of the Fashion Industry (41:46–47:42)

• Industry critique: Frustrated by the relentless cycle of overproduction, lack of meaningful change post-pandemic, and waste in the industry. [41:46–43:44]

  “Let's be more...That's, you know, what I relish about the time of when I started this business. It was a time of pure creation...a freedom and a joy.” (B, 43:44)

• Hope for change: Advocates slowing down, seeking balance, and valuing intrinsic quality, calling on the next generation to demand truth in what they buy.

11. Reflections on Legacy (47:42–50:17)

• Impact: Hopes he brought “new and interesting things to people” and helped brands flourish, sharing pride in fostering the growth of brands like Golden Goose. [47:46–48:16]
• Personal style: Archaeological appreciation for a long-kept Arnis cashmere coat—a testament to the ethos of lasting quality. [49:09]

  "That coat is still as good today as it was." (B, 49:50)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Adaptability:

  "You have to be very adaptable. And it worked for me...I can enter any kind of like settings and kind of, like, find my way." (Christophe, 02:17)

• On Personal Drive:

  "I was driven by like, achieving a certain level of comfort and, yeah, freedom and all of that." (Christophe, 07:45)

• On Baptism by Fire:

  "I was 22. I know absolutely nothing...And within a month, they were both gone. Clearly, you know, talking about baptism by fire." (Christophe, 13:19)

• On the Essence of the Showroom Business:

  "We are, I'm a curator of sorts...When you put them all together within the multi branch showroom space, they have to be copacetic...and also not...compete." (Christophe, 27:20–28:27)

• On Relationships:

  "At the end of the day, the most important thing...it's a people's business." (Christophe, 29:23)

• On American Market Realities:

  "This is a very big country, no joke. Takes as long as much time to go to LA than to go to London from here." (Christophe, 30:23)

• On Golden Goose's Rise:

  "Today it's a $750 million company...I remain, and I'm still to date, kind of like honorary chairman of North America." (Christophe, 34:13–34:37)

• On Resilience During Challenges:

  "The most important thing is that communication always...to have the vision of what it's going to be like on the other side and to stay the course." (Christophe, 39:34)

• On Overproduction and Waste:

  "There are mountains of textiles that have no reason to be...and when you hear about...luxury brands, like burning stuff, it's like enough.” (Christophe, 43:44)

• On Legacy:

  "I hope I brought new and interesting things to people...that I help some brands to flourish." (Christophe, 47:46)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Christophe’s upbringing and adaptability: [01:14–04:35]
• Early fashion influences and education: [04:39–08:33]
• First job and Paris store scene: [09:52–18:00]
• Moving to New York and starting over: [18:23–21:22]
• Showroom business philosophy: [26:59–29:11]
• Golden Goose success story: [31:33–36:44]
• Recession and resilience in business: [39:03–41:41]
• The problem of overproduction: [41:54–44:44]
• Values on quality and legacy: [47:46–49:50]

Tone & Takeaways

• Warm, candid, and reflective—Laura’s admiration for Christophe is evident, and Christophe returns that warmth while offering unvarnished insights about the challenges, joys, and complexities of fashion business.
• Both agree that relationships, discovery, and quality—not trend-chasing or size—constitute the deepest value in their corner of the industry.
• Christophe ultimately hopes his impact is measured by the lasting value and opportunities he’s created for brands and people, rather than fleeting moments of hype.

For anyone wanting to understand the behind-the-scenes vision and ethics that power lasting change in fashion, this episode is a masterclass in resilience, discovery, and the enduring importance of relationships.