Episode Overview

Podcast: What We Wore
Host: Laura Vinroot Poole
Guest: Ileana Makri
Episode: 170 – The Language of Jewelry
Air Date: February 25, 2026

Laura Vinroot Poole sits down with renowned Greek jewelry designer Ileana Makri to discuss the influences, stories, and philosophy behind her distinctive creations. Together, they dive into the symbolism, her personal journey, Greek heritage, and landmark moments that shaped Ileana’s career—especially her pioneering role in bringing talismanic motifs like the evil eye and serpent to the American jewelry scene.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Childhood, Family, & The Roots of Aesthetic (00:32–05:03)

• Origins: Ileana describes being born in Salonika, then moving to Athens as a child due to her father's political career. Her upbringing in an old, ever-evolving city deeply influenced her aesthetic sensibilities.
• Inheritance of Creativity: While her parents were not artists, creativity filtered down through inherited artworks and flower arranging—"My father...loved flowers and flower arrangements. He spent hours putting flowers in all the vases of the house." (04:13)
• Family Evolution: Artistic inclinations blossomed in the next generation—her and her sister's children are all involved in the arts (04:13–05:03).

2. The First Spark: The Threadband Origin Story (05:12–08:12)

• The Accidental Icon: At age 14, Ileana designed her first “threadband”—a minimalist diamond ring, breaking from the fashion of larger stones. Despite technical difficulties, with persistence, she created the piece that would go on to define her work and become a bestseller for 25 years.
  • Quote: “I wanted the completely opposite of that...this little thread band that I did was the simplest piece of all. It is my best seller for 25 years.” (05:12–11:36)

3. The Ancient Language of Jewelry (08:12–11:36)

• Jewelry’s Dual Purpose: Ileana explains that for Greeks, jewelry is both adornment and talisman, with roots going back centuries—“Putting a piece of jewelry on you...was a human need, even before clothing.” (08:20)
• Microsculpture and Meaning: Jewelry is a form of microsculpture with both aesthetic and metaphysical value, imbued with symbolism from Greek mythology.

4. Education, Reinvention & Santa Monica (11:55–14:47)

• Nonlinear Path: Initially pursuing business, Ileana’s formal jewelry education came later in life, at age 43, at the Gemological Institute in Santa Monica—a pivotal moment that transitioned her passion into a profession.
  • Quote: “That is when I started doing it professionally.” (13:21)
• Importance of Greek Craft: She remained committed to traditional craft, insisting jewelry must be handmade to carry the true intention and playfulness she values.

5. The Barney’s Breakthrough (21:21–29:38)

• Serendipity & Preparation: A chance encounter in New York led to her first major order with Barney’s, launching her career in the U.S. She stresses the power of showing up, being prepared, and seizing opportunities.
  • Quote: “She opens her arms, takes me in her arms and said, ‘I'm so happy to meet you. You're the person I'm looking for.’” (25:10)
• Deposits and Deadlines: Ileana’s first large order was for $150,000, prepaid—a testament, she says, to professional trust and intuition in the industry. She delivered the order a week early, highlighting her discipline and sense of duty.

6. Balancing Creativity & Business (29:38–31:25)

• Coexistence of Opposites: Ileana discusses the need to maintain both creativity and discipline, which she once thought were incompatible but now sees as essential and complementary.
  • Quote: “I realized with time that both of these two things can coexist. It doesn't have to be the one or the other.” (30:34)
• Intentional Craft: Preserving the integrity and personal nature of each piece remains her top priority, even as the business grew.

7. Symbolism: The Evil Eye & The Serpent (33:15–42:48)

• Bringing the Evil Eye to America: After 9/11, Ileana noticed a cultural readiness in New York for protective talismans. She introduced the evil eye pendants at Barney’s in late 2001, sparking a trend.
  • Memorable Moment: “I said, this is an evil eye to protect you from bad energy. And [they] said, we need that.” (36:34)
• The Serpent’s Transformation: Overcoming a lifelong fear of snakes led her to create the “lucky snake” collection, now a staple of her repertoire.
  • Quote: “There is one thing that I must say. I was so surprised...I almost fell in love with it. I said, this is a wonderful animal.” (40:39)
• The Deeper Meaning: The serpent symbolizes transformation and change across cultures, themes echoed in her personal life and collections.

8. Family Legacy & The Modern Atelier (42:48–47:17)

• Daughters Joining the Business: Both daughters contribute—one manages digital presence and the other the flagship store—expanding the brand’s reach while staying true to its roots.
• Natural Evolution: Involvement was organic, not engineered—“[It] came naturally. They made the decision.” (46:10)

9. Core Philosophy & Pride (47:26–49:55)

• Staying True: Ileana’s philosophy is to follow her intuition and not chase trends, ensuring each piece she releases has personal resonance: “I’m proud of one thing...I follow my instinct.” (47:26)
• Sharing the Stage: As an ambassador for Greek design, she carries other designers in her shop, celebrating the diversity of Greek creativity.

10. Personal Favorites & Reflections (51:16–52:19)

• Her Favorite Piece: While the threadband is a longtime favorite, she currently cherishes an emerald ring found in India—valued for its unique energy and story.
• Legacy of Energy: She hopes her jewelry not only endures but continues to carry the energy and stories of its wearers.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Athens:
  "Athens was and still is a place where history and modern life coexist...all this combination of multiracial, multicultural, which it has been since the beginning of time." – Ileana Makri (01:14–02:55)

• The Value of Handmade:
  "Jewelry are three things...the precious metal, it is the stones, and it is the meaning. Because...a small object can carry such a big emotional charge." – Ileana Makri (16:29)

• On Stones’ Power:
  "For me, stones are alive...each one is unique...there is some connection; I cannot just say goodbye to some of them." – Ileana Makri (17:44–20:43)

• On Creative Integrity:
  "It is a priority for me that every piece still feels intentional, personal, is made with care. Somebody relates to it as being his piece, her piece." – Ileana Makri (31:10–31:23)

• About Family & Team:
  "I'm handicapped in that sense [with technology]...But she is like...looking at two computers at the same time...so this saved my life." – Ileana Makri on her daughter managing the brand's digital presence (44:52–45:08)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:32 – Ileana’s family background and history in Athens
• 05:12 – The origin of the threadband, her first jewelry design
• 11:55 – Non-traditional path: business studies, eventual dedication to jewelry
• 21:34 – How Barney's discovered Ileana’s work
• 25:10 – The transformational first U.S. order
• 29:38 – On balancing creativity and business discipline
• 33:15 – Introducing the evil eye and serpent motifs to America
• 36:34 – Post-9/11: Americans’ embrace of the evil eye
• 40:39 – Overcoming fear and creating the "lucky snake" collection
• 42:48 – Her daughters joining the family business
• 47:26 – What she is most proud of—following her own instincts over trends
• 51:16 – Her current favorite piece: a round emerald ring from India

Summary

This episode offers a rich, authentic look into the mind and heart of Ileana Makri, revealing how personal heritage, curiosity, and a reverence for tradition have shaped a modern career in fine jewelry. Her life story stands as a testament to reinvention, resilience, and the enduring power of symbols—both protective and transformative.

Listeners come away with a deeper appreciation for jewelry as narrative, art, and living energy—and for Makri’s seminal role in bringing talismanic, story-rich designs to the global stage.