Women Designers You Should Know: Episode 032 Summary

Title: Elsa Schiaparelli: Where Fashion and Surrealism Began
Host: Amber Asay
Guest: Darian Wright
Release Date: January 28, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 032 of Women Designers You Should Know, host Amber Asay delves into the vibrant life and groundbreaking work of Elsa Schiaparelli, one of fashion's most audacious pioneers. Joined by her friend and fashion historian, Darian Wright, they explore Schiaparelli's innovative designs, her foray into surrealism, and her enduring legacy in the fashion world.

Early Life and Personal Struggles

Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890 into an aristocratic family in Rome, Italy. Despite her privileged upbringing, Schiaparelli felt confined and emotionally lonely, leading her to retreat into a rich fantasy world. Her mother favored her older sister, Beatrice, which deeply affected Elsa, prompting her to imagine filling her nose and ears with sunflower seeds in an attempt to become more beautiful—a poignant reflection of her childhood insecurities.

Notable Quote:
Darian Wright reflects on this contradiction, saying, “[Elsa] was born into this world of opulence, education, and a deeply interesting life. And yet she was incredibly bored, and she was emotionally lonely” (09:05).

Rebellion and Early Career

Elsa's rebellious nature manifested early in life, exemplified by an infamous incident where she released a box of fleas during a family dinner. At 21, her sensual and erotic poetry, Arethusa, scandalized her conservative family, forcing her into a hunger strike to gain her release from Switzerland, demonstrating her fierce determination.

Her attempt to escape an unwanted marriage proposal led her to London, where she met Count William, a charismatic theosophist. Their whirlwind marriage resulted in the birth of her daughter, Gogo. However, William was a con man whose illegal activities as a fortune teller led to his deportation, leaving Elsa a single mother in New York.

New York: A Turning Point

Struggling financially in New York, Elsa took odd jobs and connected with avant-garde artists like Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray. Her friendship with Gabrielle Picabia was crucial, introducing her to surrealism and expanding her artistic horizons. These connections laid the foundation for her future in fashion.

Return to Europe and Mentorship with Paul Poiret

Back in Europe, Elsa moved to Paris to seek treatment for her daughter’s polio. Supported by Blanche Hayes, a wealthy friend, Schiaparelli met Paul Poiret, a legendary designer who mentored her and encouraged her to pursue a career in fashion. This mentorship was pivotal, aligning her artistic vision with technical expertise.

Breakthrough in Fashion: The Knitted Bow Sweater

At 37, Schiaparelli launched her first collection featuring trompe-l'oeil sweaters, characterized by optical illusion designs like knitted bows. Her innovation caught immediate attention:

Notable Quote:
Amber Asay describes the moment, “She wears that sweater herself to a industry event or a luncheon … Lord and Taylor orders 40 of these sweaters on the spot” (28:00).

This success catapulted her into the fashion stratosphere, showcasing her ability to blend art with wearable fashion.

Collaborations with Salvador Dalí and Iconic Designs

Schiaparelli's collaboration with surrealist artist Salvador Dalí resulted in iconic pieces like the Lobster Dress and the Shoe Hat. These creations exemplified her whimsical and avant-garde approach, merging art with fashion in unprecedented ways.

Notable Quote:
Darian Wright explains, “Schiaparelli was really known for her love of accessories and designing whole outfits with accessories” (32:44).

She introduced unique accessories such as insect and fruit-themed buttons, surreal necklaces, and bracelets, adding layers of meaning and conversation to her designs.

Rivalry with Coco Chanel and Diversification

Despite her success, Schiaparelli faced criticism from rivals like Coco Chanel, who dismissed her artistic approach as overly whimsical. In response, Schiaparelli continued to innovate, introducing practical designs like the skort and patented swimsuits with built-in bras, demonstrating her commitment to both form and function.

Notable Quote:
Amber Asay remarks on their rivalry, “Coco does not come from aristocracy and she had to work and grind a lot harder. And she was definitely resentful of that” (33:44).

Challenges and Closure of Her Fashion House

Post World War II, the fashion industry shifted towards Christian Dior's romantic "New Look," which posed challenges for Schiaparelli's more practical and whimsical designs. Her fashion house eventually closed in 1954, although her perfume line, notably Shocking, continued to thrive and remain popular long after her death in 1973.

Legacy and Modern Revival

In 2014, the House of Schiaparelli was revived under the direction of Daniel Roseberry, honoring her spirit of innovation and daring design. Contemporary designers, including Lady Gaga, have paid homage to Schiaparelli's legacy through bold red carpet choices inspired by her iconic styles.

Notable Quote:
Darian Wright highlights modern influences, “Lady Gaga ... she's wearing something that is playing with something in a fun way … That is something that the current house does really, really well” (42:12).

Schiaparelli's emphasis on thematic collections, theatrical presentations, and artistic collaboration laid the groundwork for the modern fashion industry, making her a trailblazer whose impact continues to resonate.

Conclusion

Amber Asay and Darian Wright conclude the episode by celebrating Elsa Schiaparelli's extraordinary life and her transformative role in fashion history. Schiaparelli's ability to intertwine art with fashion and her fearless approach to design serve as an enduring inspiration for designers and creatives worldwide.

Notable Quote:
Amber Asay wraps up, “Her life is so dramatic. It's so full of ups and downs. It's pain and turmoil and these, like, really exciting moments” (45:29).

Key Takeaways

• Innovative Designs: Schiaparelli revolutionized fashion with surrealist collaborations and unique accessories.
• Art and Fashion Fusion: Her work seamlessly blended high art with wearable fashion, setting new industry standards.
• Legacy of Boldness: Schiaparelli's fearless approach continues to inspire modern designers and fashion enthusiasts.
• Overcoming Adversity: Despite personal and professional challenges, Schiaparelli maintained her vision and left an indelible mark on fashion history.

Follow and Support

• Guest: Follow Darian Wright on Instagram @imderan and check out her Substack for more fashion insights.
• Support the Podcast: Leave a review, share with friends, and rate the podcast on your preferred platform to help continue celebrating the stories of incredible women like Elsa Schiaparelli.

Stay curious and keep celebrating creativity. Let's redesign history by celebrating women.