Podcast Summary: Women Designers You Should Know Episode 043: Edith Head: Hollywood Costumes & Controversies Release Date: June 10, 2025 Host: Amber Asay Guest: Darian Wright

Introduction

In Episode 043 of Women Designers You Should Know, host Amber Asay delves deep into the illustrious yet controversial career of Edith Head, renowned as Hollywood’s most awarded costume designer. Joined by fashion design enthusiast Darian Wright, the episode uncovers Head’s journey, her groundbreaking designs, intricate relationships within Hollywood, and the controversies that shadowed her legacy.

Early Life and Education

Edith Head was born in San Bernardino, California, in 1897. Following her parents' divorce, her mother remarried Frank Spare, from whom Edith took her maiden name to avoid antisemitism in Hollywood.

• Education:
  • Bachelor’s Degree: University of California, Berkeley (1919) in Letters and Sciences.
  • Master’s Degree: Romance Languages from Stanford University (1920), becoming fluent in French and Spanish.

Edith initially pursued a career in education, teaching French and Spanish at the Hollywood School for Girls and Bishop's School in La Jolla.

Amber (00:35:29): "She picked up how the industry works. She's understanding how Paramount functions... Edith was not in a high position in the costume department."

Entry into Hollywood and Early Career

Edith’s transition into the film industry began when Paramount’s head designer, Howard Greer, sought a sketch artist. Lacking a proper portfolio, Edith resorted to a bold move:

• Deceptive Hiring:
  • Strategy: Collected sketches from her art school classmates, anonymized them, and presented them as her own work.
  • Outcome: Impressed, Greer hired her despite recognizing her limited sketching skills.

Darian Wright (08:06): "Edith Head didn't just design for the movies. She played the game of Hollywood better than anyone."

Edith's tenacity and political savvy allowed her to remain employed, with Greer valuing her grit over initial talent.

Mentorship Under Travis Banton

Edith’s skills flourished under the mentorship of Travis Banton, Paramount’s head designer who eventually struggled with alcoholism and left the studio in 1937. Post his departure, Edith seamlessly transitioned into his role as head designer in 1938, partly due to her deep understanding of studio politics and design needs.

Darian Wright (15:13): "She is less expensive also, because the Roaring Twenties have concluded and we've had a big stock crash."

Her conservative yet elegant design approach resonated well during the economically challenging 1930s, solidifying her position at Paramount.

Design Philosophy and Breakthroughs

Edith Head was celebrated for her ability to design costumes that accentuated an actress's strengths while mitigating perceived flaws:

• Techniques:
  • Minimizing: Used dark fabrics to minimize a large bust.
  • Elongating: Employed vertical lines to make short legs appear longer.
  • Distracting: Accessorized to draw attention away from prominent features like a chin.

Breakthrough Moment:

• Dorothy Lamour’s Sarong in "The Jungle Princess" (1938):
  • Popularized sarongs and showcased Edith’s thoughtful approach to designing for an actress’s body type.

Darian Wright (18:01): "Edith designs a sarong, which is her first, I would consider real breakout moment."

Collaborations with Iconic Actresses and Directors

Edith Head forged strong relationships with some of Hollywood’s biggest stars and directors, influencing the fashion landscape profoundly.

Notable Collaborations:

• Grace Kelly:
  • Signature Designs: White chiffon gown in "To Catch a Thief" and elegant wardrobes in "Rear Window."
  • Anecdote: Grace Kelly’s iconic wedding dress, designed by Helen Rose, led to a strain in their professional relationship when Edith was not chosen for its design.

Amber (28:51): "Edith knew better than to even ask that. So we were so close to Edith Head being the designer of Grace Kelly's wedding dress."

• Audrey Hepburn and Givenchy Controversy:
  • Film: "Sabrina" (1954)
  • Incident: Audrey Hepburn personally approached Givenchy for key wardrobe pieces, leading to a rift where Edith took sole credit, sidelining Givenchy’s contributions.

Amber (32:37): "Despite this snub, he would go on to obviously build this relationship and have a huge, successful career."

• Alfred Hitchcock:
  • Collaborated on 11 films including "Rear Window," "Vertigo," and "The Birds," where costumes were integral to narrative storytelling.

Darian Wright (24:06): "Edith Head was the person that wanted to execute... She saw those notes, she took the script. She was always inspired, but extremely dedicated to delivering."

Controversies and Credit Issues

Edith Head’s career, while lauded, was marred by several controversies related to taking credit for others’ work.

Key Controversies:

1. Hubert de Givenchy and "Sabrina":

   • Issue: Edith received the Academy Award for Best Costume Design without acknowledging Givenchy’s substantial contributions.
   • Impact: This oversight contributed to Givenchy's later prominence in fashion.

2. Mitchell Leeson and "Lady in the Dark":

   • Issue: Took credit for a mink-sequined gown designed by director Mitchell Leeson, leading to tensions and staff backlash.

Darian Wright (34:45): "With all her Academy Awards, she has to go claiming other people's designs."

3. Oscar Acceptance for "The Sting" (1973):
   • Issue: Received the Oscar without acknowledging the men's costume department at Universal that assisted her, leading to bitterness and ostracization.

Darian Wright (41:41): "She got up there at the Academy Awards and thanked no one from the men's department. No other influence. She was hated for this."

These incidents highlight the complex dynamics of credit and recognition in a male-dominated industry.

Accolades and Achievements

Edith Head’s dedication and prowess in costume design earned her immense recognition:

• Academy Awards:

  • Total Wins: 8 Oscars.
  • Total Nominations: 35, showcasing her consistent excellence.

• Notable Wins:

  • "Roman Holiday"
  • "All About Eve"
  • "Sabrina"
  • "A Place in the Sun"
  • "The Facts of Life"
  • "The Sting" (Posthumous Recognition)

Amber (44:47): "She did lobby for the Oscars to recognize costume design. The Oscars started recognizing that category in 1948, and she didn't win the first one."

Legacy and Influence

Edith Head's influence extends beyond her lifetime, continuing to inspire modern fashion and costume design.

Modern Impact:

• Hollywood Glamour: Her signature feminine and elegant designs are echoed in today's red carpet fashion.
• Influence on Designers:
  • Jessica Chastain and Emma Stone: Embody Old Hollywood glamour reminiscent of Edith’s aesthetic.
  • Sabrina Carpenter: Wears recreations of Edith’s iconic designs, bridging classic and contemporary fashion.
  • Television References: Shows like "Emily in Paris" incorporate Edith’s styling nuances, such as the tiara necklace in "Funny Face."

Darian Wright (50:56): "That exists in modern television that we're watching. So there's just these little touches and glimmers of Edith Head's work that we see all the time."

Cultural Footprint:

• Haunted Legend: Edith Head is rumored to haunt Paramount’s Dressing Room 5, with staff reporting cold spots and unsolicited fashion advice from beyond.

Conclusion

Edith Head’s career is a testament to her unparalleled dedication, innovative design philosophy, and strategic mastery of Hollywood’s competitive landscape. While her legacy is intertwined with both celebrated achievements and contentious controversies, her indelible impact on costume design and fashion history remains undeniable.

Amber (51:16): "That's how we still talk about these designers today, and that's how they stay relevant is like really knowing and understanding their contributions and how we still see them today. That's what keeps these women alive in our history."

Notable Quotes

• Amber Asay [00:02]: “Edith Head didn’t just design for the movies. She played the game of Hollywood better than anyone.”
• Darian Wright [08:18]: “She was terrified of being laid off constantly, economically and industry wise, film is going through a lot.”
• Darian Wright [15:13]: “She is less expensive also, because the Roaring Twenties have concluded and we've had a big stock crash.”
• Darian Wright [24:06]: “Edith Head was the person that wanted to execute... She saw those notes, she took the script. She was always inspired, but extremely dedicated to delivering.”
• Darian Wright [34:45]: “With all her Academy Awards, she has to go claiming other people's designs.”
• Darian Wright [50:56]: “That exists in modern television that we're watching. So there's just these little touches and glimmers of Edith Head's work that we see all the time.”

Final Thoughts Edith Head remains a pivotal figure in the annals of Hollywood and fashion design. Her ability to blend practicality with elegance, coupled with her tenacious spirit, carved a niche that continues to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.

For more detailed insights and visual references, listeners are encouraged to check out the show notes and Instagram as mentioned by Amber Asay.