Brians Questions:

Hello! I recently got into woodworking in part after being inspired by finding a local lumber yard and not being beholden to the big orange box. I’ve realized my next step is to figure out a planing method - the wood I buy is rough sawn, and I’m not in a position to buy a planer or jointer given the size of my garage shop/price constraints. I’ve done some research on hand planes and plan to start experimenting with some used/refurbished ones. Do you think this is a reasonable method for small/medium projects (bookshelves and tables would be largest I’d do), or should I jump right to other methods like a router or electric planer. Thanks! Ryan

Zach from Minnesota here. I heard you're in need of questions, so I figured I'd come to the rescue.
My question is regarding developing and learning new techniques and skills in the shop. You guys have previously made the suggestion that when trying to learn new skills, the best approach is to take on a project which incorporates one new skill (the one you would like to learn) versus diving into a project that's going to involve several unfamiliar skills.
While I think that's a great approach, my question is: how do I know when it is time to move on to another new skill?
For example, if I decide I want to learn how to use dovetails, how many projects in a row should I spend focusing on that technique before progressing to learning another new one? Should I keep at it until I feel that I've mastered dovetails, or should I just practice it until I feel like I have a firm understanding of the process?
Thanks again for all of your expertise and your dedication to the woodworking community at large. I eagerly anticipate each new episode. I hope all of your projects are doing well, and I hope you are doing even better.

Guys Questions:

Hello,
I’m really enjoying the podcast—it’s become one of my favorites to listen to. I appreciate how genuine and down-to-earth you all are.
I’m currently building a small part-time crafting business using a Onefinity CNC and an xTool laser. For software, I use LightBurn and Carveco Maker+.
I recently heard Guy talking about using his laser, and I think I’ve also heard you discuss CNC work in past episodes. I was curious if either of you have any advice for laser engraving softwoods like pine. I often get blotchy or inconsistent results because of the varying grain density, and I’m always looking for ways to improve my finished products.
On the CNC side, I’d love to hear your thoughts on workholding methods. My spoilboard has dovetail tracks, so I use homemade clamps quite a bit. I also use double-sided tape regularly. Surprisingly, the foam double-sided tape from Dollar Tree (three rolls for $1.25) has worked far better for me than some of the CNC-specific tapes I’ve tried, which didn’t seem to hold very well.
For two-sided projects, I’ve also made a few fixture boards with dowel-pin locators, and those have been a huge help with alignment.
I’ve learned that there’s always something new to learn in this hobby, and I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Thanks for the great content, and keep up the awesome work!
Have a great day! Kevin

I’m building a round table with an x-frame base. The top 60” in diameter and 1 1/4” thick hickory. The x-frame is 37” across. I also plan on adding an apron about 3 1/2” tall to the table. I have heard more cons than pros on c-channel but would like your guys opinion on this. I definitely can’t have this thing droop. Also, while I have your attention, how would you attach the apron to the top taking into account wood movement. Thanks for having a great podcast. You have helped me a number of times in the past with valuable advice. Tom

Huys Questions:

I have an old park bench that I rebuilt three years ago using white oak. I applied 3 coats of Minwax spar urethane over the wood, sanding with 240 grit sandpaper between coats. Now, after 3 years, the finish has failed and the wood has noticeable splintering, peeling, and bowing. While I think I can salvage the wood on the back with sanding and refinishing, the seat slats will need to be replaced. I wanted to use quarter sawn white oak, but my lumber supplier only had rift sawn white oak in stock at the time. I feel this will be adequate, but would appreciate your opinions regarding wood choice. My main question is about finishing: will I be further ahead to use a penetrating oil first, such as tung oil, before the spar urethane? Will this add to the longevity of the wood? I realize that the sun and the elements will degrade any finish over time.
Thanks for what I would consider to be the top woodworking podcast available! Kurt

Thank you for all your good work.
As in a previous question, I am the one who makes furniture for immigrants.
In your last podcast you discussed the importance of color match and grain pattern when assembling a table top.
I am experimenting with a 3rd: "Feel", and would like to know your take on this. I am working with cherry so it easy to manage.
I find that commercial furniture finishes, particularly on table tops are so smooth that if you close your eyes and pass your fingers over them, you can't tell it was made of wood.
I have felt that the "texture" and feel of a finished top should reflect the purpose of the piece.
A "boot bench" ( I live in Maine) was prepped to have a deliberate grainy feel, a hallway table was hand planed with an LN 5 set to produce medium shavings to smooth it somewhat, and finally a coffee top was hand planed to fine shavings and then finished with 1000 grit sandpaper that left a top almost glass like. The first two were finished with shellac and some wax. The last was finished with shellac and "Tried and True".
Question: do you vary the prep before finishing a piece in order to convey a different "feel" to the top based on customer preference, or purpose of the piece?
Do you think "feel' has a role as do "color match" and "grain"? Do you take this into consideration when doing your preps?
thanks for reading this far,
John Vogt
Falmouth ME