Siula Grande: Over the Edge | First Ascent | 1

Summary

Against The Odds

Episode: Siula Grande: Over the Edge | First Ascent (Part 1)

Host: Cassie De Pecol
Original Release: September 2, 2025
Podcast Summary – Structured Episode Breakdown

---

Episode Overview

In this gripping first episode of a three-part series, Against The Odds takes listeners deep into the Peruvian Andes alongside Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, two young British climbers attempting the first ascent of the west face of Siula Grande in 1985. The story immerses listeners in the harrowing realities of high-altitude alpine climbing—its allure, risks, and the unwavering ambition that drives climbers into the unknown. The narrative lays the groundwork for a tale of resilience, partnership, near-fatal danger, and the true cost of survival.

---

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Setting Out: The Dream of Extreme Alpinism

• [00:09] The hosts introduce Joe Simpson and Simon Yates' arrival at base camp in the Peruvian Andes, feeling both exhilaration and anxiety in the remote wilderness.
• Joe's Motivation:
  • Joe, age 24, found inspiration in “The White Spider”; he craves the challenge and isolation of mountaineering (“No hordes of climbers, no helicopters. Just them… and the mountains.” – Cassie, 01:31).
  • The west face of Siula Grande remains unclimbed—a feat many tried and failed, fueling their determination.

2. Alpine Style Climbing: Trust and Peril

• [05:09] Alpine style is depicted as "the purest form of mountaineering"—traveling light, moving fast, accepting total risk, and demanding absolute trust (“The rope that connects you could save your life. Or take you both down.” – Cassie, 05:21).

3. Preparation & Early Challenges

• [07:28-09:45] Joe and Simon acclimatize on a nearby peak, Rosario Norte. The team’s dynamic is established—complementary skills, a touch of bravado, and shared hunger for unexplored climbs.
  • Notable quote:
    Simon: “Good. I’m sure glad we’re not smoking on this trip.” (07:32)
  • Sense of humor: The climbers balance dark jokes with nervous anticipation, especially when Richard, their friend, snaps their “obituary” photo before they depart. (11:55–12:31)

4. The Climb Begins: Risk Intensifies

• [12:33–17:59] The ascent up the west face starts with technical ice climbing, close calls with rockfall, and mounting physical challenges.
  • Harrowing moment:
    Joe: “Rocks!” (17:21), as Simon dodges a boulder by inches. “But that was too close. The casual confidence of the morning is gone.” (17:52–17:59)

5. Alpine Ordeal: The Flutings & Fear

• [18:01–22:33] As they approach the summit, they face the infamous "flutings"—narrow, unstable powder chutes with terrifying exposure and unpredictable footing.
  • The hardship:
    Joe: “I can’t believe this snow.”
    Simon: “I know, it's terrifying.” (around 21:00)
  • The climb takes much longer and is more dangerous than anticipated. Exhaustion, cold, and the threat of avalanches set in.

6. Summit Triumph & Immediate Anxiety

• [27:08–28:40] The pair finally summits Siula Grande after a brutal, multi-day push.
  • Jubilation and dread:
    Joe: “Woohoo. We’re so close.” (27:04)
    Simon: “Come on, we're almost there.” (27:36)
  • Yet, the descent looks dangerous: “Bloody hell. Look at all those cornices.” – Simon (paraphrased, 29:00s).

7. Descent Disaster: Cornice Collapse

• [30:45–33:24] Attempting to traverse the north ridge, Simon falls through a cornice (overhanging snow), barely saved by Joe’s quick anchor.
  • Vivid account:
    Joe: “Simon, are you okay? Simon?” (31:36)
  • Simon’s internal terror and flashbacks highlight the mental toll.

8. Third Night: Limits of Survival

• [33:24–36:40] Forced to spend another night at 20,000 feet with dwindling food, gas, and morale, both climbers reflect on recent and past tragedies.

9. Catastrophe Strikes: Joe’s Fall and Injury

• [41:03–47:05] In the final section, Joe, attempting to climb down an ice cliff, falls and shatters his right leg; he instantly knows he’s facing likely death.
  • Heartbreaking realization and resolve:
    • Joe: “I’ve broken my leg. That’s it. I’m dead.” (41:05–41:16)
    • Simon is forced to confront the implications—can he leave his injured friend or somehow attempt a rescue?
  • Their partnership fractures in the silence of the aftermath, each man gripped by fear and uncertainty.

---

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

| Timestamp | Speaker | Quote/Description | |------------|---------------|---------------------------------------------------------------------------| | 01:31 | Cassie | “No hordes of climbers, no helicopters. Just them… and the mountains.” | | 07:32 | Simon | “Good. I’m sure glad we’re not smoking on this trip.” | | 11:55 | Joe | “You’ll be the proud owner of all our gear.” (Dark humor before departing)| | 17:21 | Joe | “Rocks!” (Critical warning of falling boulders) | | 17:52 | Cassie | “That was too close. The casual confidence is gone.” | | 21:00 | Joe & Simon | “I can’t believe this snow.” “I know, it’s terrifying.” | | 27:04 | Joe | “Woohoo. We’re so close.” (Near summit) | | 27:36 | Simon | “Come on, we're almost there.” | | 29:00 | Simon | “Bloody hell. Look at all those cornices.” | | 31:36 | Joe | “Simon, are you okay? Simon?” | | 41:05 | Joe | “My leg. Jesus, my leg. Fuck. Fuck. Fuck.” (Moment of injury) | | 44:03 | Joe | “I fell. I’ve broken my leg.” |

---

Important Segments & Timestamps

• Arrival at Base Camp and Motivation
  00:09–04:35

• Explanation of Alpine Style and Team Dynamics
  05:09–09:45

• Humor and Realism Before the Ascent
  11:55–12:31

• Technical Ice Climbing & Rockfall Scare
  12:33–17:59

• The Flutings: Climbing the Most Dangerous Terrain
  18:01–22:33

• Summit and Psychological Aftermath
  27:04–29:00

• Treacherous Descent & Cornice Collapse
  30:45–33:24

• Third Night: Survival Decisions
  33:24–36:40

• Joe’s Catastrophic Fall and Leg Break
  41:03–47:05

• Climactic Realization and Changed Partnership
  44:03–47:05

---

Final Notes & Tone

The episode is immersive and suspenseful, blending awe for the mountains, mordant climber humor, and escalating dread with the utmost realism. The hosts discuss risk and self-reliance with both reverence and honesty, never shying away from the brutal consequences of mistakes in the high Andes.

Memorable Closing Sentiment:
"Joe can feel the distance. They're no longer a team, no longer partners, moving together with a shared goal. Now it’s just the two of them, and one of them is broken." (46:40)

---

Recommendation for Further Reading:

• Touching the Void by Joe Simpson (the source material for this saga)
• Against the Wall by Simon Yates

To be continued in Part 2: The Descent...

Transcript

[Wondery Announcer]

Wondery subscribers can listen to against the Odds early and ad free right now. Join Wondery in the Wondery app or on Apple Podcasts.

[Cassie Depechel]

A listener note against the Odds uses dramatizations that are based on true events. Some elements, including dialogue, may be invented, but everything is based on research. This episode contains explicit language. Joe Simpson feels his heart pound harder as he hikes deeper into a remote valley in the Peruvian Andes. A heady mix of exhilaration and thin air. Mountains rise all around him, raw and magnificent under a brilliant blue sky. It's late May 1985. After a long, winding bus ride and two days trekking on foot, Joe and his climbing partner Simon Yates have finally made it to base camp, 15,000ft above sea level. This is as far as the donkeys can carry their gear. Just five more miles up the valley lies the base of Ciula Grande, the majestic mountain they've come all this way to climb. Joe and Simon are joined by a new friend, a fellow Brit named Richard Hawking, who they met just a few days ago in Lima. Richard's been backpacking through South America. He's not a climber, but he's funny and good company, so they invited him along to watch their gear. While they're on the mountain, they unload their tents and equipment and start setting up camp. Joe takes a moment to glance around. A turquoise lake shimmers nearby, framed by towering snow covered peaks. Wow, this is so much better than the Alps. Simon smiles, nodding in agreement. They're truly in the middle of nowhere. Exactly what Joe wanted. For him, the whole appeal of climbing is to disappear into places like this, far from the real world. No hordes of climbers, no helicopters. Just them, their equipment and the mountains. It's risky going up as a two man team. There's no backup if something goes wrong, but to Joe, the self reliance aspect is the point. It's total freedom. Joe fell in love with climbing when he was 14 after reading the White Spider, a book about the first harrowing attempts to climb the north face of the Eiger in Switzerland. At first he couldn't understand why anyone would risk their life for a mountain. But then something shifted. These were smart, capable men. If they were willing to endure that kind of pain and fear, there had to be something really special about climbing that made it worth the danger. Ten years later, he knows it's true. Joe is only 24 and Simon's just 21, but they've already scaled some of the biggest rock faces in the French Alps. They met just last year in Chamonix they got on well and tackled a few difficult routes together, but they both craved bigger, more unexplored challenges. And Ciola Grande is exactly that. It rises over 6,300 meters, just under 21,000ft. Two Austrians first reached its summit in 1936 via the north ridge, but no one has ever successfully climbed its daunting west face. Joe knows it's going to be extremely difficult. Brutal even. Many have tried and failed, but that only makes him more determined. We're better than them. He thinks. We're going to succeed.

[DSW Advertiser]

This season. Let your shoes do the talking. Designer Shoe Warehouse is packed with fresh styles that speak to your whole vibe without saying a word. From cool sneakers that look good with everything to easy sandals you'll want to wear on repeat, DSW has you covered. Find a shoe for every heel from the brands you love, like Birkenstock, Nike, Adidas, New Balance and more. Head to your DSW store or visit dsw.com today.

[Shopify Advertiser]

Shopify's point of Sale system helps you sell at every stage of your business. Need a fast and secure way to take payments in person? We've got you covered. How about card readers you can rely on anywhere you sell?

[Cassie Depechel]

Thanks.

[Shopify Advertiser]

Have a good one. Yep, that too. Want one place to manage all your online and in in person sales? That's kind of our thing. Wherever you sell. Businesses that grow grow with Shopify. Sign up for your $1 a month trial at shopify.com listen shopify.com listen.

[Cassie Depechel]

From Wondery I'm Cassie Depechel and this is against the odds Alpine style climbing is consist considered by many to be the purest form of mountaineering. Just two climbers moving fast and light, roped together, fixing anchors as they go. But it's also far riskier. Climbing this way demands absolute trust in your partner because the rope that connects you could save your life. Or take you both down. In June 1985, two ambitious young British climbers, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, set out to do an Alpine style ascent of Ciola Grande, a towering 21,000 foot peak in the Peruvian Andes. Their goal was to conquer the mountain's west face, an unclimbed, forbidding wall of rock, ice and snow. But during their descent, disaster struck and in the desperate hours that followed, they would be forced to confront everything they thought they knew about ambition, friendship and the true cost of survival. This is episode one First Ascent. Simon Yates moves at a steady pace, zigzagging up the steep rocky slope above Base Camp. The morning is cold and clear. He and Joe are on a training climb to acclimatize on a nearby mountain called Rosario Norte. Each time he glances back, the tents below shrink smaller. Simon can feel his lungs working hard, but he and Joe are making good progress adjusting to the altitude. So far, the weather has followed the same pattern every day. Clear mornings and clouds by mid afternoon, followed by rain or snow on the higher slopes. But unlike in the Alps, the clouds here rarely explode into full on storms, so they don't need to retreat the moment the sky darkens. Joe hikes up alongside him, breathing hard in the thin air.

[Joe Simpson]

How's it going?

[Cassie Depechel]

Simon glances over and grins.

[Joe Simpson]

Good. I'm sure glad we're not smoking on this trip.

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe laughs and they push on higher and before long, the tents totally disappear from view. The isolation is a little unnerving, but mostly Simon finds it exhilarating. To him, mountains are the most beautiful places in the world. The risks are real. But out here he feels truly alive. Even though Simon doesn't know Joe all that well, he believes they're well matched. In a way, a climbing partnership is a marriage of convenience. You need similar temperaments and abilities. Simon likes that. Joe is ambitious and hungry like him for the kind of climbs no one else has pulled off. They continue working their way up a steep rock gully. Then Simon spots it off to the left. Their first clear view of Ciola Grande.

[Joe Simpson]

Jo, look.

[Cassie Depechel]

They both stop and stare out at the dramatic mountain range unfolding before them. A cluster of white peaks sparkling in the sunlight. And in the center, towering above them all, is Ciola Grande. It's bigger, wider and more awe inspiring than any photo Simon's ever seen. Joe points a little to the right. Is that the north ridge? Simon takes a moment to get his bearings. They're looking at the mountain from a different angle than in the photos. Gradually, the familiar features start to fall into place. Yeah, it starts down there. Simon traces the north ridge with his finger, following it as it twists and climbs higher toward the summit. It looks relatively straightforward. But then his gaze drifts lower to the more complex and confusing west face. It's a maze of gullies and ice fields. Hey Simon, what elevation do you think we're at right now? Simon glances around, trying to gauge their height. I'd say a little over 18,000ft.

[Joe Simpson]

Why?

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe grins. We're higher than we've ever climbed before. Simon laughs. It's a cool milestone, but he knows the real challenge is still ahead. From here, they'll be heading even higher into uncharted territory. He looks out again at Cioula Grande, towering at 21,000ft in the distance. If they're fit enough after 10 more days of training, they'll make it. Go for the summit. Joe scrambles around a huge boulder as he picks his way through a massive rock field under the morning sun. Simon and Richard are close behind. And ahead, just around the bend, Siola Grande is waiting. It's June 4, 1985. After two weeks of training on nearby peaks, Joe and Simon feel fit, strong and ready for what's ahead. For the past two days, they've done nothing but eat, sleep and wait. Now, with a clear weather window, they're making their move. They're about an hour into the five mile trek to the base of the mountain. Richard is coming along partway to send them off. They've already traveled up the rocky valley, around another lake and now into this maze of rocks. Joe and Simon have packed light. Just one backpack each, and no tent. They planned to dig snow caves for shelter. Instead, they brought only the essentials. Stakes, ice screws, crampons, axes, a stove, food, and a few more basics. But even without a tent, Joe's pack still feels heavy. Finally, they make it out of the boulder field and reach the start of the glacier. Richard is wearing only sneakers, so this is the end of the road for him. How long will you guys be gone? Simon shrugs. Two days up, two days down. Five days max. Then he grins. If we're not back in a week.

[Joe Simpson]

You'Ll be the proud owner of all our gear.

[Cassie Depechel]

Richard laughs, a little uneasy, but plays along as he pulls out his camera. How about I take your picture? You know, for the obituary pages. They all laugh, a flicker of dark humor to break the tension. Joe and Simon stand together and smile awkwardly. With the glacier stretching out behind them. Richard snaps a photo, then waves as he turns back toward base camp.

[Joe Simpson]

Take care.

[Cassie Depechel]

Simon calls after him. Don't worry.

[Joe Simpson]

We'll be back soon.

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe and Simon strap on their crampons and step onto the glacier. The plan is simple. Once they reach the far side, they'll dig a snow cave at the foot of the mountain and settle in early. Then tomorrow at first light, they'll begin their climb up the west face. They rope up and start moving carefully across the ice. It's riddled with crevasses, deep open cracks. Some are hidden under a thin layer of snow, while others are wide enough to swallow them whole. On terrain like this, if one of them slips, the other has to react instantly by driving their axes and crampons into the ice to stop the Fall. They pick their way through the treacherous maze, step by step. And then, looming ahead, Joe finally sees it. The west face of Ciola Grande. This close, it's dazzling, magnificent and utterly terrifying. Even though he's committed to going up, a ripple of fear pulses through him. He turns to Simon. Jesus, it wouldn't take much to knock us right off that face. Simon just chuckles. Little fear's healthy. We can do it. Joe's still nervous, but he can't help but smile. He envies Simon's positive, carefree attitude. There's a glint of madness in him, like most climbers, but he's dependable, sincere, and always quick to find the humor in things. Joe feels lucky to be climbing with him. As they move on, Joe repeats the words in his head like a mantra. We can do it. We can do it. Simon drives his right axe firmly into the ice and looks up at the soaring west face of Ciola Grande. From this angle, it's far steeper than it looked when they scouted it from Rosario Norte. But so far, everything's going right. The weather is perfect. Clear skies, bright sun, no wind. Simon feels a rush of excitement. This is it. We're really going for it. At 5am they left their snow cave at the base and began climbing. Now, hours later, they're inching steadily up a sheer wall of ice, swinging their axes and kicking in their crampons as they go. It's early afternoon and they've already gained 2,000ft. Simon glances down at Joe. He's 150ft below, clipped in at the other end of the rope. They've been taking turns leading the way, hammering in ice screws and setting anchors ahead while the other feeds out rope from under. The idea is that if someone slips, they shouldn't fall. Past the last anchor. Finally, Simon hauls himself over the edge of the ice wall, more than halfway up the face, with Joe close behind. They stop on the narrow ledge to catch their breath. Simon grins at Joe. Pretty steep, eh? Joe smiles, shaking his head. That's an understatement. From here, they get a quick, clearer view of what's ahead. And it's even more daunting. High above, massive cornices overhang the west face. Huge shelves of snow and ice that look like they could break off at any moment. Beneath the cornices, a wide gully slices across the headwall. That's their target for today. But it still looks a long way off. They have only a few hours of daylight left to reach it. They pack up and set off again. This time With Joe leading the way. As they climb higher, the ice becomes harder and more brittle. Simon keeps getting peppered with shards, breaking loose from Joe's axes. Oh, for crying out loud. Joe adjusts his line, moving diagonally to avoid sending debris straight down. He must have heard Simon's yellow. But now ice and rock are breaking loose on their own, clattering down from the head wall and whizzing past Simon's head. The mountain has come alive. Simon curses under his breath, then hears Joe shout from above.

[Joe Simpson]

Rocks.

[Cassie Depechel]

He glances up just in time to see a boulder tearing loose above. It rips past Joe and hurtles straight toward him. Simon throws himself sideways and crouches low. Tiny stones rattle off his helmet and gear. The boulder slams into the slope with a thunderous crack and bounces past him, missing him by inches. His heart pounds in his chest.

[Joe Simpson]

You okay, Simon? Yeah.

[Cassie Depechel]

But that was too close. The casual confidence of the morning is gone. Keep moving, Joe.

[Joe Simpson]

I don't like it here.

[Cassie Depechel]

They know now, this day, this route is going to be much longer and much harder than they thought. Joe moves like a cross between a gymnast and a dancer as he climbs steadily up the wall, all power and grace. Simon is moving well above him. It's mid afternoon on day two and they're only 800ft from the summit. Now Joe's feeling confident again. No more doubts. He truly believes they're a match for this route. Yesterday had been a brutal 15 hour grind that left them exhausted and demoralized. They ended up climbing in the dark until 10 o' clock when they finally stopped, dug a snow cave and wolfed down dinner from a foil bag. Turkey supreme. Today they've gotten off to a strong start. And now they're finally nearing the top of a gully where the summit slopes begin. From there, it should be the final stretch. Joe can barely contain his excitement. Simon is grinning too. They're so close to a first ascent. But as they reach a small ridge marking the end of the gully and the start of the summit slopes, reality hits them hard. The route above is a maze of flutings. Steep, narrow grooves filled with loose powder. They've heard stories about South American flutings, none of them good. Warnings about unstable snow, deceptive footing and slopes just waiting to collapse. They stop on the ridge. Simon pulls out the gas stove and starts melting snow for water. They need to stay hydrated to keep their energy up. The altitude is drying them out faster than they're used to. As they sip their hot drinks, they look up and search for a good Line of ascent. Many of the flutings lead to dead ends and once they commit to one, there's no way out. Vertical rock walls box them in on either side. They'll have to find a way through or they'll be trapped. They pick the widest gully and push on. Immediately they're floundering in knee deep powder, moving slower than ever. This is the most precarious climbing Joe's ever done. The loose snow barely holds their weight. Every step sends small avalanches cascading down the slope. He wonders where. How is the snow even sticking to a mountain this steep? In the Alps, fresh powder wouldn't cling to a face like this. But here it seems to defy gravity. Joe looks down at Simon. I can't believe this snow. I know, it's terrifying. They're now more exposed than they were before. And as the afternoon winds pick up, the temperature drops even more. But there's no changing course now. They're committed. It takes four grueling hours just to gain 300ft and by dark they're chilled to the bone. Snow is now falling and they can barely see where they're going. They both know pushing on in these conditions will be asking for disaster. Joe yells down. I can't see us getting to the top today. No, not at this snail's pace. Joe sweeps his headlamp across the slope, searching for a place to take shelter. But the fluting is too narrow and shallow to stop here. They have no choice. They have to climb higher. Once again they push on after dark, with snow swirling around them until finally the gully widens enough for them to dig a snow cave. It's still precariously steep, but they secure themselves with ice screws in case the flooding of the cave collapses. Once they're dug in, they eat their last freeze dried meal and collapse into their sleeping bags, exhausted and freezing, curled into the fetal position with only their noses sticking out. But the good news is they're only 300ft from the summit. And tomorrow they'll be standing on it.

[Wondery Announcer]

How hard is it to kill a planet? Maybe all it takes is a little drilling, some mining and a whole lot of carbon pumped into the atmosphere. When you see what's left, it starts to look like a crime scene.

[Cassie Depechel]

Are we really safe? Is our water safe? You destroyed our tap.

[Wondery Announcer]

And crimes like that, they don't just happen.

[Cassie Depechel]

We call things accidents. There is no accident. This was 100% preventable.

[Wondery Announcer]

They're the result of choices by people. Ruthless oil tycoons, corrupt politicians, even organized crime. These are the stories we need to be telling about our changing planet. Stories of scams, murders and cover ups that are about us and the things we're doing to either protect the earth or destroy it. Follow Lawless Planet on the Wondry app or wherever you get your podcasts. You can listen to new episodes of Lawless Planet early and ad free right now by joining Wondry plus in the Wondry App, Apple Podcasts or Spotify.

[Nick Cannon]

It's your man Nick Cannon and I'm here to bring you my new podcast, Nick Cannon at Night. I've heard y' all been needing some advice in the love department, so who better to help than yours truly? Nah, I'm serious. Every week I'm bringing out some of my celebrity friends and the best experts in the business to answer your most intimate relationship question. Having problems with your man? We got you catching feelings for your sneaky link. Let's make sure it's the real deal first. Ready to bring toys into the bedroom? Let's talk about it. Consider this a non judgment zone to ask your questions when it comes to sex and modern dating in relationships, friendships, situationships and everything in between. It's gonna be sexy, freaky, messy. And you know what? You'll just have to watch the show. So don't be shy, join the conversation and head over to YouTube to watch Nick Cannon at night. Or subscribe on the Wondery app or wherever you get your podcast. Want to watch episodes early and ad free? Join Wondery right now.

[Cassie Depechel]

Simon Yates picks his way through the snow gully in the morning sun, each step slow and deliberate in the fresh powder. The daylight is a welcome relief after the long, bitterly cold night they spent huddled in a snow hole above 20,000ft. It's their third day on the mountain and less than 300ft stands between them and the summit. With the clear weather, they can now see the nightmare of snow flutings they were blindly trying to climb the night before. Simon glances down between his legs and his stomach is twists tighter. Nothing but a 4, 500 foot drop. It's Simon's turn to feed out rope from below while Joe leads. He can see the tension in Joe's body, the careful way he shifts his weight, plants his axe and searches for solid footing. Simon's fine with going slow. They both know their anchors are anything but secure and that any slip could rip them both off the mountain. On the most precarious sections, you can't count on anchors or skill. You just pray you don't fall. Simon feels the rope go still he looks up. Joe has stopped. They've reached a fork in the slope. Joe calls down which way should I go?

[Joe Simpson]

I can't see.

[Cassie Depechel]

Simon leans out carefully craning his neck to get a better look over the edges of the flutings. From his angle he can make out just a little more.

[Joe Simpson]

Don't go left.

[Cassie Depechel]

Simon can't see what lies to the right, but it has to be better than the sheer drop waiting on the left. Joe cautiously edges right at the fork and disappears from view. The rope stays still for a moment, then begins to slowly creep through Simon's hands. A few nerve wracking minutes drag past and finally Simon exhales. The rope is moving steadily and so is Joe. They made the right call. A little while later, Simon scrambles up to join Joe at the top of the gully. That's when, through the swirling clouds, they finally catch a glimpse of the summit. An enormous overhanging cornice glowing white against the pale sky just 100ft above them.

[Joe Simpson]

Woohoo. We're so close.

[Cassie Depechel]

They're now only one rope length away from the top. A final vertical stretch of hard packed snow and ice stands between them and history. Simon takes the lead, kicking in firm steps. The steepness is unnerving, sickening. But soon he's hauling himself onto the ridge. Less than 50ft from the top. He looks down at Joe and grins.

[Joe Simpson]

Come on, we're almost there.

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe climbs onto the ridge and together they drop their heavy packs and start the final scramble. Moving light and fast for the first time in days, Simon can feel his heart hammering in his chest. Quicker with each step. And then they reach it. The summit bathed in sun. The views stretch endlessly in every direction. A breathtaking panorama of jagged white peaks, razor sharp rock spires and glacial lakes far below. Simon feels not so much a surge of triumph, but an overwhelming sense of relief. He turns to Jo. I never want to see another goddamn fluting. They laugh through cracked lips and snap a few photos. They've done it. The first ascent of the west face of Scola Grande. Joe Simpson stands on the summit, awestruck by the rugged beauty stretching in every direction. After two and a half brutal days, they finally reached the top. A surge of elation floods through him, then fades just as quickly. The usual anti climax, he thinks. What now? What dream replaces this? Why are climbers like him drawn to these battles with death over and over again? Simon's voice interrupts his thoughts. Bloody hell. Look at all those cornices. Joe follows his gaze toward the north ridge. Their planned descent route it's the same path the first summit team used back in 1936, and should be easier than going back down the west side. But the first stretch of the ridge, rising over a second minor summit, is lined with massive cornices just waiting to come loose and dark. Afternoon clouds are already rolling in from the east. Joe shudders. Looks hairy. Simon nods. If we move fast, we can traverse under the minor summit and rejoin the ridge lower down. They grab their backpack and begin heading down. Simon leaves, pushing through deep powder while Joe feeds out rope from behind. They veer onto the east face and begin descending, circling around the smaller Summit. But within 30 minutes, the clouds close in and snow starts falling thick and fast. When Joe catches up with Simon, he's peering into the whiteout. This is madness. Do you think we've passed the smaller summit yet? Joe shakes his head, squinting into the swirling snow. They can barely see a thing. I have no idea. I can't even see the ridge. Joe feels his anxiety rising. They're losing control. Then suddenly he spots the ridge straight above them.

[Joe Simpson]

Up there.

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe stays put as Simon scrambles up toward the ridge. Within seconds, Simon vanishes into the whiteout. Joe's pulse quickens as the rope slides through his gloved hands. It's the only proof Simon's still there. He's about to call out, when suddenly the rope whips through his mitts, yanking him chest first into the slope. At the same time, he hears a deep explosion like an avalanche. Joe kicks in his crampon, slams both axes into the slope and braces with everything he has. The rope pulls tight with a jolt. He knows instantly what's happened. Simon's fallen through a cornice. He must be hanging over the crest, dead weight on the line.

[Joe Simpson]

Simon, are you okay? Simon?

[Cassie Depechel]

There's no answer, only the wind. Simon has no idea what's happening, only that he's falling. A deafening roar fills his ears as huge blocks of snow crash down around him. 1020 square foot slabs exploding against the slope. It all feels like slow motion and for a few seconds he's weightless. Then he feels a hard jerk at his waist and the rope snaps him to a stop. Joe caught the fall. Simon is hanging 30ft below the shattered ridgeline, pressed against the icy wall of the west face. He looks down. Nothing but a 4,500 foot drop straight to the glacier. For a moment he just dangles there, swinging slightly. Then he kicks once, twice, driving his crampons into the ice in front of him. Carefully, he starts inching upward, back to the ridge. He's rattled, but he's alive. Joe breathes a long sigh of relief as he gets back on his feet and yanks his axes out of the slope. After shouting into the whiteout for 15 minutes, Simon's weight has come off the rope and now Joe finally hears him shouting back, I found the ridge. Joe starts moving up toward him.

[Joe Simpson]

Yeah, I figured.

[Cassie Depechel]

He finds Simon slumped in the snow just below the crest, breathing hard.

[Joe Simpson]

Bloody hell. The whole thing gave way.

[Cassie Depechel]

I thought it was done for. Simon is clearly shaken, and so is Joe. He can't help but think if he hadn't secured his position in time, the rope would have yanked him forward and they both would have gone over the ridge together. Joe's mind flashes back to two years earlier in France, when he and a friend had camped on a narrow ledge perched 12,000ft up a sheer granite spire. In the middle of the night, Joe woke to a splitting roar. The ledge had broken away and he was plummeting fast into the abyss. He dropped nearly 2,000ft before the safety rope caught him. He and his partner dangled high above the valley floor for 12 agonizing hours until finally someone heard their shouts and a rescue helicopter plucked them off the wall. Joe's friend never climbed again, but Joe managed to work through his dread, though now, high on Cielo Grande, it's coming back with a vengeance. They're both spooked as they continue inching their way along the narrow crest barely five feet from the edge. They assumed the north ridge would be easier, but it's proving just as treacherous as the west face, if not worse. Joe places each step carefully in Simon's exact footprints, forcing himself to block out horrifying images in his mind of them flying off the mountain roped together. No one would even hear a scream, he thinks. The tension builds with every step, and so does the frustration. Joe glances at his watch. 5:00pm the light is already fading and the temperature is dropping fast. They had hoped to get down to the bottom today, but in the three and a half hours since leaving the summit, they've barely made any progress without having to say it. They both know there's no way they're getting off this mountain tonight. Simon crouches under the thin glow of his headlamp as he melts snow on the stove while Joe finishes digging out their snow cave. He prepares their drinks and scrounges together the last of their food, just some chocolate and dried fruit. His hands feel stiff. Frostbite is already creeping into his fingertips, turning them a waxy white color. After being held up by the slow going ridge and his fall. They only manage to descend 600ft all day. It's dark now and the wind has picked up. They have no choice but to spend another night at 20,000ft. Simon knows this is bad. Spending a third night on the mountain is brutal on their bodies. The thin air saps their strength and dehydrates them hour by hour. But trying to climb down this ridge in the dark would be suicidal. Simon passes Joe a mug of hot tea and takes his own drink and settles into his sleeping bag. He's exhausted, but the shock of his fall today still lingers. His mind drifts back to a haunting memory. Last year on Mont Blanc, he watched two Japanese climbers fall to their deaths. He was just above them on the slope and heard their screams as they slid tethered together all the way down. Simon shudders. Normally he feels confident in the mountain, but out here they're flying by the seat of their pants. More than he's used to. They're experienced climbers, but this altitude is new to them and it's taking a toll. It's okay. We'll be back at base camp by tomorrow afternoon, he tells himself. He tightens his hood around his face, burrows deeper into his sleeping bag and waits for sleep to come. Joe wakes up in the early morning light, exhausted, but a little more at ease after an unplanned night in a freezing Snow Hole at 20,000ft. The sun is finally up and the sky is clear. They melt snow for their morning tea and just as they finish, the gas runs out. That's it. No more water until they reach the lakes far below. Eating snow won't hydrate them. They should have brought more gas and more food. But it's alright, they figure. The worst of the ridge is behind them. Simon seems in better spirits too. We should reach the glacier in six hours or or so. It's in the bag. Joe smiles. He can feel it. Today is going to be a good day. They finish their drinks and set off down the crest of the ridge. Joe takes the lead while Simon guards the rope behind him. At first they move well, but soon they hit another stretch of deep powder. Joe feels his nerves fraying. There's no more thrill. He just wants to get off the mountain. He glances back at Simon, slogging along with his head down a full rope length behind. Ahead, there's another small rise. Beyond that it should dip down to a call, a low pass between two peaks. Another half hour and we'll be there, he thinks. Then it'll Be easy to drop down to the glacier. Joe Perkins. Joe picks up as he makes his way up the small rise, then down a gentle incline with the rope tugging rhythmically at his waist. Just steps ahead, the ground drops away without warning. A steep ice cliff slices across the ridge, cutting off his path. Joe stares, blinking in disbelief. He creeps closer and peers over the edge. It's a sheer 25 foot drop, straight down to where the slope picks up again. He looks around. The snow's too soft to hold a stake for him to rappel down. And traversing wide around the drop would be too dangerous, if not impossible. He has to get down this wall. He spots a slight angle in the otherwise vertical cliff, a place he thinks he can climb down with a few quick moves. He crouches low, slams both axes into the ice and swings his legs over the edge. His stomach presses against the slope as he kicks in his crampons. They hold one by one. He drives in his axes, testing each placement before moving lower. A little ways down, he swings his right axe into the ice. It sinks in, but the sound is wrong. Hollow. He yanks it out and swings again, trying for a better placement. Then he hears a sharp crack. Before he can react, the ice gives way and he's falling. He slams into the slope below, feeling his right knee shatter on impact. He skids until the rope yanks him to a jarring stop just before he flies off the east face. Pain floods through his thigh, down his calf, lighting up every nerve. He gasps, then screams.

[Joe Simpson]

My leg.

[Cassie Depechel]

Jesus, my leg.

[Joe Simpson]

Fuck. Fuck. Fuck.

[Cassie Depechel]

He lies there as waves of nausea surge through him, gripped by a single dark thought. I've broken my leg. That's it. I'm dead. Everyone says it. In a two man team, even a broken ankle can be a death sentence. His mind pivots desperately to denial. Maybe it's not broken. Maybe just twisted. A torn ligament, dislocated. He digs his left foot into the slope and tries to stand up. But the moment he puts weight on his right leg, pain explodes in his knee and he collapses, screaming again. Definitely broken. Hot tears well up, not just from the searing pain, but from a crushing feeling of helplessness. They're still above 19,000ft, too far from any hope of rescue. And Simon won't be able to carry him. Joe knows the brutal truth. Simon will have no choice but to leave him here alone. Joe wants to curse the mountain, to rage at the world, but he stops himself. He doesn't want to panic. Suddenly, the tightrope pulling at his harness goes slack. Simon's coming. Joe's mind races. What do I say? Should I lie? Tell him it's not broken? Maybe then he won't leave me. He forces himself to slow his breathing. Stay calm, he tells himself. If Simon sees him panicking, he might give up on him right away. Joe grits his teeth and waits for Simon to appear. Simon moves cautiously, coiling the rope as he follows the line toward Joe. He's not sure what to expect. Joe must have taken a fall, then found his footing again minutes ago. Simon. Simon saw Joe disappear over a small rise in the ridge. Then the rope went still. Simon figured Joe was dealing with another obstacle, so he decided to stop and rest until he felt the rope moving again. Then the rope shifted, and a minute later it suddenly yanked his harness tight and pulled Simon several feet forward. He slammed his axes into the slope and fought to hold them both. He held his position until the rope went slack and he was sure Joe's weight was off. Now, as Simon crests the rise, he sees the rope vanish over the edge of a drop. He moves slowly toward it and peers over. There's Joe, 25ft below, slumped awkwardly on the slope. He's clearly injured.

[Joe Simpson]

What happened? Are you okay?

[Cassie Depechel]

Joe lifts his head and looks up.

[Joe Simpson]

I fell. I've broken my leg.

[Cassie Depechel]

For a moment Simon just stares, thrown by how calmly Joe said it. But he can see the fear in Joe's eyes. Simon's thoughts come fast, honest and brutal. You're. You're dead. And I think you know it, too. Joe blinks through the pain and locks eyes with Simon, standing at the top of the cliff. Despite the agony coursing through his leg, he forces himself to sound calm. He doesn't want to panic Simon, but the look on Simon's face says it all. Joe knows he's in deep shit. I'm going to rappel down.

[Joe Simpson]

Be careful. I don't think a stake will hold. You could fall, too. I'll dig a bollard around the stake.

[Cassie Depechel]

Reinforce it as much as I can. I don't have a choice. Joe nods weakly. He knows a bollard is last resort stuff. It's simply a horseshoe of packed snow around an anchor meant to spread the load. But it's better than nothing. Barely a few minutes later, Simon reappears at the edge and starts lowering himself over. Joe watches nervously as he half rappels, half climbs his way down, trying to stay as light as possible on the rope. One slip and Simon could end up beside him at the bottom of the cliff. Or worse, go sailing off the mountain. But finally Simon reaches the foot of the cliff and makes his way over. He glances at Joe's leg but says nothing. Still, Joe sees it, that quiet, pitiful look Simon can't quite hide. His whole demeanor has shifted, cold, detached. Joe feels unnerved by it. He's looking at me like I'm a wounded animal. Simon rummages in his pack and hands him a couple painkillers, just Tylenol, a gesture more than anything. Joe swallows them, bracing for what comes next. He expects Simon to say something like I'm going for help. Hang tight, even though they both know out here there's no help to be found. But Simon says nothing, and Joe doesn't dare ask him what he's going to do, afraid of what he'll hear. The silence stretches on between them. Joe can feel the distance. They're no longer a team, no longer partners, moving together with a shared goal. Now it's just the two of them, and one of them is broken. Joe stares out over the endless open space below. They still have to descend another 4,000ft, and he can tell Simon's already thinking he's dead.

[Wondery Closing Announcer]

If you like against the odds, you can binge all episodes early and ad free right now by joining Wondery in the Wondery app or on Apple Podcasts. Prime members can listen ad free on Amazon Music. And before you go, tell us about yourself by filling out a short [e-mail] survey.

[Cassie Depechel]

This is the first episode of our three part series Ciola over the Edge. A quick note about our in most cases we can't know exactly what was said, but everything is based on historical research. If you'd like to learn more about this story, we recommend Touching the Void by Joe Simpson. Our story consultant for this series is Simon Yates. To learn more about his adventures in mountaineering, check out his book against the Wall. Available wherever you get your books. I'm your host, Cassie depechel. Rachel Matlow wrote this episode. Sound designed by Odd House Audience. Audio engineer is Sergio Enriquez. Original theme music Scott Velasquez and 2K for freeze on Sync Produced by Alita Rosanski. Managing producer is Desi Blaylock. Senior managing producer is Callum Plews. Senior producers are Andy Herman and Rachel Matlow. Executive producers are Daniela Beckman, Stephanie Jens Marshall, Louie and Erin o'. Flaherty. For Wondery, what do you think makes the perfect snack?

[am/pm Advertiser]

Hmm, it's gotta be when I'm really craving it and it's convenient.

[Cassie Depechel]

Could you be more specific when it's.

[am/pm Advertiser]

Cravinient okay, Like a freshly baked cookie made with real butter, available right down the street at am, pm. Or a savory breakfast sandwich I can grab in just a second at am, pm.

[Cassie Depechel]

I'm seeing a pattern here.

[am/pm Advertiser]

Well, yeah, we're talking about what I.

[Cassie Depechel]

Crave, which is anything from am, pm.

[am/pm Advertiser]

What more could you want? Stop by ampm, where the snacks and drinks are perfectly craveable and convenient. That's cravenience ampm. Too much good stuff.