All Of It Episode Summary: "At Bonnie's, Chef Calvin Eng Brings his Cantonese-American Cooking to Your Table"

Released on March 20, 2025 | Host: Koosha Navadar | Guest: Chef Calvin Eng

Introduction

In this episode of ALL OF IT, hosted by Koosha Navadar, listeners are introduced to Chef Calvin Eng, the innovative mind behind Bonnie's, a popular Cantonese-American restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Eng also discusses his newly released cookbook, "Salt, Sugar, MSG: Recipes and Stories from a Cantonese American Home." The conversation delves into Calvin’s cultural heritage, culinary philosophy, and the challenges of establishing a restaurant amidst a global pandemic.

Calvin’s Background and Bonnie’s Restaurant

Calvin Eng, a first-generation Cantonese-American from New York, shares the heartfelt story behind his restaurant, Bonnie's, named in honor of his mother. "Bonnie was 13 years old when she immigrated from southeastern China to New York," Eng recounts (00:37). The restaurant features a unique fusion of traditional Cantonese flavors with American and other international influences, offering dishes like Italian combo fried rice and clam chowder juk.

The Cookbook: "Salt, Sugar, MSG"

Eng's cookbook emphasizes the foundational trio in Cantonese cooking: salt, sugar, and monosodium glutamate (MSG). When asked about why these flavors blend so well, Calvin explains:

“I always joke that the combo of all three is like the Chinese trinity of seasoning... the balance of all three seasonings of salt, sugar, MSG really help balance out a dish and its flavors.” (02:09)

He elaborates that these ingredients don’t have to be literal; substitutes like soy sauce for salt or honey for sugar can achieve the desired balance. This balance is crucial in Cantonese cuisine, which typically avoids excessive acidity and heat.

Naming the Restaurant After His Mother

The choice to name the restaurant Bonnie's was inspired by a personal story. Calvin shares:

“It was given to her by her sister, who was also had an Americanized name... she decided to pick Bonnie for her, and then it just stuck.” (03:29)

When Calvin informed his mother of the decision, her reaction was one of surprise and pride. Bonnie has since become a family gathering spot, with Chef Eng’s mother attending launch events and enjoying the restaurant’s offerings (04:05).

Challenges of Opening Bonnie’s During COVID

Opening Bonnie's proved to be Calvin’s most challenging endeavor. Transforming an empty office space into a full-service restaurant during the COVID-19 pandemic required relentless effort and adaptability:

“Operating and cooking, you never realize how easy all of that is until you go through with the build out of a restaurant... everything was super expensive, everything was over budget.” (04:27)

Despite the obstacles, including supply chain issues and budget constraints, Calvin remained dedicated, working nearly 24/7 for a year to bring his vision to life.

Family Influence and Childhood Memories

Calvin reflects on his upbringing in Chinatown, New York, where his family settled in a one-bedroom apartment. His mother played a central role in his culinary journey, often taking him on food shopping excursions:

“She would have like specific spots she would go to for like dried seafood and fresh fish or produce... having dinner with the family, whether it was in the apartment or going out as a family at banquet dinners.” (06:48)

These experiences ingrained in him a deep appreciation for Cantonese ingredients and flavors, laying the groundwork for his future as a chef.

Cantonese Cooking Techniques and Regional Specialties

Eng discusses specific cooking techniques from his heritage, particularly those from Taishan, Guangdong Province. He highlights the use of preserved ingredients to add depth and umami to dishes:

“Whether it's like salted fish just to preserve it, or fermented bean curd... shrimp paste, all those things add so much umami and flavor and depth to dishes when used sparingly.” (08:59)

These traditional methods influence his culinary creations, blending authenticity with modern tastes.

Interactive Listener Calls and Q&A

Throughout the episode, listeners engage by calling in with questions and sharing their experiences related to Cantonese-American cuisine. Notable interactions include:

• Dan from Brooklyn (10:08) asks about maintaining quality as a restaurant grows. Calvin responds by emphasizing the importance of efficient systems and hiring reliable staff to ensure consistency without being physically present at all times.

• Christine from Brooklyn (13:56) seeks tips on making turnip cakes. Calvin advises on proper water ratios and the importance of thoroughly rinsing and draining daikon to achieve the perfect texture.

• Kira from Brooklyn (15:26) praises Bonnie's and inquires about the "Stuffed Golden Lava French Toast" recipe. Calvin describes it as a fusion of Hong Kong-style cha chaan teng French toast stuffed with duck egg custard, highlighting its rich and velvety texture.

• Jordan from Greenpoint (17:10) compliments the MSG martini on the menu. Calvin explains the innovative addition of MSG to enhance the umami and salty profile of the cocktail, making it a perfect fit for the restaurant's culinary theme.

• Lizzie from Brooklyn (23:41) shares her personal connection to Cantonese-American food and expresses interest in Calvin’s cookbook as a bridge to her heritage.

Key Cooking Tips from Calvin Eng

Throughout the discussion, Calvin imparts valuable culinary tips to listeners:

• Securing Your Cutting Board (19:07): Use a damp towel or paper towel beneath the cutting board to prevent it from sliding, ensuring safety and efficiency while chopping.

• Labeling Everything (19:31): Label all ingredients with their names and dates to maintain organization and ensure freshness, especially in refrigerators and freezers.

• Perfect Pot of Rice (21:49): Rinse rice until the water runs clear using a fine mesh strainer. Maintain a one-to-one volume ratio of rice to water for consistent results on the stovetop.

Conclusion

As the episode wraps up, Calvin emphasizes the importance of his cookbook in helping others connect with their culinary heritage. He encourages listeners to explore traditional recipes while adapting them to modern kitchens. Calvin's journey from a passionate home cook to a successful restaurateur serves as an inspiring tale of cultural fusion and resilience.

“This book has a lot, a lot of classics as well... but end of the day, the ingredients and the flavors will definitely tie you back to your childhood.” (24:55)

Listeners are left with a deeper appreciation for Cantonese-American cuisine and the personal stories that shape it, while also gaining practical insights into cooking techniques and restaurant management.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Salt, Sugar, MSG Trio: “[...] the balance of all three seasonings of salt, sugar, MSG really help balance out a dish and its flavors.” (02:09)

• Naming Bonnie's: “She decided to pick Bonnie for her, and then it just stuck.” (03:29)

• Challenges During COVID: “[...] everything was super expensive, everything was over budget.” (04:27)

• Family Influence: “[...] having dinner with the family, whether it was in the apartment or going out as a family at banquet dinners.” (06:48)

• Cantonese Cooking Techniques: “[...] shrimp paste, all those things add so much umami and flavor and depth to dishes when used sparingly.” (08:59)

• Maintaining Quality: “[...] the consistency and the quality of it will still be the same as if I were when we first started.” (11:02)

• Perfecting Turnip Cakes: “[...] the trick to turnip cakes is the water ratio has to be correct.” (15:26)

• MSG Martini: “[...] umami and salty. Like I Was like, yeah, that’s like a no brainer. Why haven’t people been doing this forever? It just works.” (17:15)

• Connecting Through Rice: “Rice was just a staple. No matter what we were eating, rice was always a part of it.” (20:57)

Join the Conversation

ALL OF IT invites listeners to share their stories and questions about Cantonese-American culture and cuisine. Engage with the community by calling or texting 212-433-9692 (212433, WNYC) to participate in future discussions.