Podcast Summary: "How 1990s NYC Skateboarding Culture Birthed 'Supreme'"
Podcast Information:
- Title: All Of It
- Host: Alison Stewart
- Description: ALL OF IT is a show about culture and its consumers, aiming to engage thinkers, doers, makers, and creators about the what and why of their work. Hosted by WNYC, it explores the myriad aspects of New York City's vibrant cultural landscape.
Episode Overview: In this episode of All Of It, Alison Stewart delves into the dynamic world of 1990s New York City skateboarding culture and its pivotal role in the creation of the iconic fashion brand Supreme. The conversation features Josh Swade, director of the ESPN's 30 for 30 documentary Empire Skate, which chronicles the rise of a group of young skaters who transformed NYC streets into their personal skate parks.
Introduction to Empire Skate and NYC Skate Culture [02:36 - 05:29]
Alison Stewart introduces Josh Swade and his documentary, Empire Skate, highlighting its focus on a tight-knit group of young skaters in NYC during the 1990s. Swade explains that skateboarding in NYC was not just about the sport but a deep cultural identity that shaped how these youths dressed, communicated, and viewed the world.
Josh Swade [02:48]: "skating is magical. I mean, it sucks you into...a culture. And it kind of teaches you how to dress and how to communicate with... with other skaters. And it kind of changes the way you see the world and it just becomes a big part of your identity. And that... That's never left me."
Swade emphasizes the unique challenges NYC skaters faced compared to their Southern California counterparts, noting the improvisational skills and courage required to navigate a city not inherently designed for skateboarding.
Josh Swade [03:25]: "These kids in this city didn't have space and they didn't have what... they had in Southern California... So they had to be improvisational, but also have a lot of courage because they were doing things in the street that took a lot of just fearlessness."
The Birth of Supreme and Its Cultural Impact [05:29 - 18:10]
The discussion shifts to the genesis of Supreme, originally a humble skate shop in Lafayette Street, NYC, which later evolved into a global fashion powerhouse. Swade narrates how Supreme served as the communal hub for these skaters, fostering a sense of home and identity.
Josh Swade [05:38]: "It was home. So if this place is home, that becomes kind of like the... the narrative through line. The place from which this Culture builds."
Swade highlights the strategic vision of Supreme's founder, James Jebbia, who reimagined the skate shop as an art gallery, setting it apart from traditional, gritty skate stores. This innovative approach attracted a diverse clientele and laid the foundation for Supreme's cult status.
Josh Swade [18:53]: "What made it so unique immediately was it didn't look like any skate shop before, looked like an art gallery... Supreme was the antithesis of what James Jebbia envisioned for his shop."
The brand's strategy of releasing limited capsule collections weekly created immense demand and fostered a resale market, turning Supreme into a coveted name in both skateboarding and fashion circles.
Archival Footage and Storytelling in Empire Skate [06:54 - 10:16]
Swade discusses the abundance of archival footage captured by skaters themselves, who were early content creators documenting their tricks and daily lives. This wealth of authentic footage provided a rich visual narrative for the documentary.
Josh Swade [06:54]: "Skaters were trailblazers... They were people that had cameras... They wanted to capture their tricks on cameras. So there's just a kind of too much of this footage that exists."
This grassroots documentation allowed Empire Skate to vividly portray the raw and fearless spirit of NYC skate culture, illustrating how these skaters transformed everyday urban spaces into arenas for their artistry and athleticism.
Community Hubs: The Role of Skate Shops [12:43 - 14:17]
Listener calls enrich the narrative, sharing personal memories of skating spots like Brooklyn Banks and Marine Park Bikes. Swade underscores the importance of skate shops as community hubs where skaters found belonging and purpose amidst challenging personal backgrounds.
Josh Swade [12:50]: "They were really, really outcasts in this city... and now, today, we see skaters riding down busy streets and they're getting flack from passerbys. It is for sure."
The skate shops provided a safe space for self-expression and camaraderie, essential for many youths dealing with broken homes or abusive environments. This sense of family and freedom was pivotal in shaping their identities.
Josh Swade [08:39]: "Skateboarding was like the ultimate release... It creates a bond, it creates family... Skaters are really both artists and athletes all at once."
Listener Memories and Experiences [10:16 - 17:36]
Listeners like Mitchell and Philip share their firsthand experiences of the 1980s and 1990s skate scene, reminiscing about pioneering skateboards and legendary skating spots. These anecdotes highlight the fierce and rebellious nature of the culture, as well as its evolution over decades.
Mitchell [10:25]: "We used to ride the boards sitting down tandem... It eventually led me to looking for the advanced skateboards of the day..."
Swade reflects on how skateboarding gained mainstream attention through media like the indie film Kids, which both spotlighted and sensationalized the culture, propelling local skaters into national fame.
Supreme's Evolution and Cultural Commodification [18:10 - 22:20]
Alison and Swade delve deeper into Supreme's transformation from a local skate shop to a global fashion icon. Swade explains how Supreme's minimalist and art-focused store design attracted a broader audience, setting a new standard in retail aesthetics.
Josh Swade [19:59]: "They would release new capsule collections every week. That drove demand... It was a marketing masterclass."
The brand's collaborations with giants like Nike and Louis Vuitton elevated Supreme's status, creating a synergistic relationship between streetwear and high fashion. This commodification sparked debates on how counterculture elements become mainstream and commercialized.
Josh Swade [22:20]: "It really is like a masterclass in marketing... Supreme making a Nike dunk... it became this brand new idea in fashion."
Swade notes that Supreme's success influenced SoHo's transformation into a shopping mecca, altering the neighborhood's cultural and economic landscape.
Impact of Media and Changing Perceptions [26:17 - 30:14]
The episode explores the broader societal impact of media representations like Empire Skate and Kids, which brought NYC skate culture into the national spotlight. Swade discusses how these portrayals initially fostered animosity but eventually led to greater acceptance and appreciation of skateboarding as an art form and legitimate sport.
Josh Swade [28:26]: "New Yorkers... were scared... it was daunting to interact in a city where everyone's managing a few square inches... There was a lot of animosity... but over time, it became celebrated more than disliked."
Despite increased acceptance, Swade acknowledges that challenges remain, with skaters still facing resistance in certain public spaces today.
Josh Swade [30:07]: "Today, you see skaters riding down a busy street and they're getting flack from passerbys. It happens every day everywhere in the city."
Conclusion and Final Thoughts [30:26 - End]
Alison Stewart wraps up the episode by encouraging listeners to watch Empire Skate on Disney, ESPN, and Hulu, emphasizing its role in documenting and celebrating a pivotal era in NYC's cultural history. Josh Swade expresses gratitude for the opportunity to share the story, highlighting the enduring legacy of Supreme and the skaters who defined a generation.
Josh Swade [30:26]: "Thank you so much for having me."
Key Takeaways:
- Cultural Identity: Skateboarding in 1990s NYC was more than a sport; it was a cultural movement that shaped the identities and communities of its participants.
- Supreme's Genesis: The transformation of a local skate shop into a global fashion brand exemplifies the intersection of street culture and high fashion.
- Media Influence: Films and documentaries played a significant role in elevating skate culture from underground movements to mainstream recognition.
- Evolving Perceptions: While initially viewed with skepticism, skateboarding has gradually been embraced and celebrated as a legitimate art form and sport, though challenges persist.
Notable Quotes:
- Josh Swade [02:48]: "Skating is magical... it becomes a big part of your identity."
- Josh Swade [05:38]: "The place from which this Culture builds."
- Josh Swade [19:59]: "That drove demand... It was a marketing masterclass."
- Josh Swade [22:20]: "It really is like a masterclass in marketing."
- Josh Swade [28:26]: "There was a lot of animosity... but over time, it became celebrated more than disliked."
**Listen to the full episode of All Of It on WNYC, and immerse yourself in the rich history of NYC's skateboarding culture and its unexpected influence on the global fashion scene.