Podcast Summary: "How to Thrift Ethically" – All Of It with Alison Stewart (WNYC) Date: February 5, 2024

Episode Overview

This episode of "All Of It," hosted by Alison Stewart, explores ethical thrifting, its environmental and social benefits, and how to make the most of secondhand fashion. With New York Fashion Week approaching, the discussion highlights how consumers can contribute to more sustainable and fair fashion systems. The episode welcomes guest Emily Stokel, host of the Pre-Loved Podcast, who shares her expertise on how to thrift efficiently and ethically, covering important industry issues, practical tips, and the value of clothing stories. Listener calls and shout-outs from the community further round out the practical, supportive tone of the episode.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

The Rise of Thrifting & Secondhand Fashion (02:16–03:06)

• Explosive Growth: The global secondhand market is predicted to reach $350 billion by 2027 (02:00).
• Definitions:

  • Vintage – typically 20-30+ years old and may be pricier, especially designer (03:11).

  • Thrift – purchasing used items, often from charity or thrift shops, usually for lower prices.

  • Pre-loved – a term Emily favors, inclusive of anything reused and given a new purpose.

    "That's why I personally love 'pre-loved,' because anything reused is great by me."
    — Emily Stokel (03:11)

Fashion, Ethics, and Activism (04:10–06:15)

• Social and Environmental Mission: Emily's advocacy includes supporting fair wages for garment workers and promoting climate justice in the fashion industry.

• The FABRIC Act: Proposed federal legislation to protect U.S. garment workers, encourage "Made in the USA" production, and offer incentives for responsible manufacturing.

  "The unfortunate reality is wage theft does still occur here, right here at home in the US…"
  — Emily Stokel (04:32)

• 'Walk Your Values' Fashion Show: A sold-out event kickstarting Fashion Week, featuring models and activists in vintage outfits directly from the Studio 54 era, benefitting Remake, a nonprofit advocating for ethical fashion.

  "It's really a very mission oriented runway show. And then everyone is wearing entirely vintage pieces."
  — Emily Stokel (05:31)

The Deeper Motivation: Why Ethical Thrifting Matters (06:15–06:59)

• Personal Values: Emily sees secondhand shopping as a deliberate move out of the exploitative fast fashion system, supporting people and the planet.

  "By choosing secondhand, I feel that I can remove myself from that exploitative system…"
  — Emily Stokel (06:20)

Tips, Strategies, and Listener Engagement

Building a Sustainable Closet: Value Over Volume (09:41–10:35)

• Curate for Value: Focus on clothing you truly love and keep long-term, rather than accumulating quantity.

  "I want the clothes that come into closet to be something that I value and I love forever."
  — Emily Stokel (10:03)

• Assessing Quality: Look for sturdy seams and natural fibers (cotton, wool) as indicators of durability.

  "Always check the seams...I love natural fibers, if I can find them."
  — Emily Stokel (10:41)

Navigating ‘Meh’ Thrift Stores (11:08–11:58)

• Use Imagination: Even uninspiring stores can yield treasures if you envision how items might fit your style.

  "You have to be the one to picture how would this look outside of the context of this thrift store…"
  — Emily Stokel (11:21)

Attainable Shopping Goals (12:04–12:53)

• Set Manageable Resolutions: Instead of strict "no buy" rules, try achievable goals like three months without purchasing new clothes—incorporating more secondhand shopping gradually.

  "I want people to set goals that feel attainable to them."
  — Emily Stokel (12:04)

Practical Thrifting Hacks (13:01–14:00)

• The 'Thrift List': Write out what you want instead of relying on photos—keeps you flexible and inspired.

  "I will kind of write out, just in the notes app on my phone, what I'm looking for…"
  — Emily Stokel (13:06)

The Emotional Side: Unique Finds & Stories (14:18–14:49)

• One-of-a-Kind Risks: Treasured thrift finds can be irreplaceable—part of the magic and the challenge.

Community Calls: Shout-Outs & Success Stories

Throughout the episode, listeners phoned in to praise their favorite thrift stores and share experiences:

• Underground Thrift Store, Brooklyn Heights: Sells secondhand to fund anti-human trafficking work (07:18).
• Local clothing swaps: Community-building and free exchange (08:19).
• Good Folk Vintage, Which Bitch Thrift, Mongers Market: Shout-outs to inclusive and curated shops across NY, CT, and NJ (15:19–16:36).
• Success stories: Clothing swaps, repairing favorite pieces, crafting new items from thrifted or discarded materials.

Deeper Dive: Ethical Dilemmas and Industry Critique

The Limits of Take-Back Programs (18:43–20:31)

• Hidden Costs: Many brand-run recycling initiatives simply encourage more buying, and much donated clothing ends up exported or landfilled, especially in the Global South.

  "A lot of the items that end up in those take back programs...unfortunately, many end up destroyed, landfilled, or exported to countries in the Global South..."
  — Emily Stokel (19:03)

• Better Solution: Support local secondhand shops and community economies.

'Dupe' Obsession & Fast Fashion (20:31–21:18)

• Problems with Dupes: Internet trend for cheap knock-offs fuels overconsumption.
• Alternative: Seek genuine vintage for original inspiration and quality.

Is Thrifting Depriving Others? (23:15–24:06)

• Reality Check: There is an oversupply of secondhand clothing—far more than can be used—so ethical thrifters needn’t worry.

  "There is way too much clothing on this planet...the best thing we can really be doing is not adding any new clothing into that system…"
  — Emily Stokel (23:15)

Fashion Predictions & The Joy of Clothing Stories

Fashion Zeitgeist: Capes (24:06–24:29)

• Prediction: Capes will trend in the thrifted fashion world.

The ‘Backstory’ Ethic (24:29–25:44)

• Connection to Clothing: Emily values items for their stories, whether inherited or newly created through use.

  "I really want every piece in my closet to have a little story...I think that that really matters."
  — Emily Stokel (24:38)

• Personal Example: Her own outfit included 1970s plaid trousers, a vintage tee and vest, and an upcycled charm necklace (25:19).

Notable Quotes & Timestamps

• On ethical motivation:
  “By choosing secondhand, I feel that I can remove myself from that exploitative system and instead support small businesses...doing good for both the planet and for people.” — Emily Stokel (06:20)
• On goal setting:
  “I want people to set goals that feel attainable to them...if you can stick with it, it’s going to be sustainable for you.” — Emily Stokel (12:04)
• On the oversupply of clothing:
  “There is way too much clothing on this planet...Now the best thing we can really be doing is not adding any new clothing into that system and reusing everything that is in circulation.” — Emily Stokel (23:15)
• On stories in clothing:
  “I really want every piece in my closet to have a little story...if we did that with our clothes more, we would waste less.” — Emily Stokel (24:38)

Final Takeaways

• Thrifting is booming—financially, ethically, and culturally.
• Ethical thrifting supports people, planet, and local economies.
• Focus on value and story, not volume.
• Set attainable, realistic goals for more sustainable shopping.
• Be creative and flexible—unique finds await those with open minds.

Find more from Emily Stokel on her Pre-Loved Podcast and on social (@emilystokel).
Happy thrifting!