Episode Overview

Podcast: All Of It (WNYC)
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Pamela Hanson (fashion photographer)
Air Date: September 26, 2025
Title: Pamela Hanson Captures the '90s With Her Fashion Photography

This episode delves into Pamela Hanson's new book, Pamela the 90s, an evocative collection of her influential fashion photography from the 1990s. Hanson, a trailblazer as one of few women in high-end fashion photography at the time, reflects on her career, personal approach, transition from analog to digital photography, and the enduring relationships built within the fashion industry. The conversation explores themes of authenticity, intimacy, and the cultural context of fashion imagery from that era.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The Culture and Intimacy of 1990s Fashion Photography

• Intimacy and Collaboration

  • Hanson highlights the familial atmosphere of 1990s fashion shoots:

    "We were all grew up together. We were kind of like a family and we ate together and we shot on the streets and when we felt like eating, we'd go eat." (01:35)

  • The absence of smartphones led to deeper trust and less self-consciousness in front of the camera.

• The Pre-Digital Advantage

  • Without instant playback or behind-the-scenes content, there was more freedom and privacy:

    “There’s not a lot of time to develop a relationship now … We had time, we hung out all day, I hung out with the girls … we were very, very lucky.” (02:09)

The Analog Versus Digital Debate

• Shooting on Film

  • Hanson emphasizes the tactile, emotional quality of film:

    “The quality of film is more intimate and more beautiful … there’s no retouching in the book at all.” (02:55)

  • The process of waiting for contact sheets added excitement and allowed for thoughtful image selection.

• Retouching and Authenticity

  • She’s conflicted but leans toward minimal intervention:

    “It’s really hard to do nothing. I really try to do nothing … But I think it’s really hard to do absolutely nothing.” (03:39)

  • Her guiding philosophy:

    “I love people for who they are … it’s like trying to show the authenticity and the intimacy as much as possible.” (04:16)

Tools and Aesthetic Influences

• Camera and Film Choices

  • Favorite camera: Nikon, especially shooting with transparency (slide) film for its cinematic quality.

    “It was a Nikon. And I also shot transparency film… I was very inspired by film, by movies, and that was what inspired me more than other still images.” (05:03 – 05:13)

• Cinematic Inspiration

  • Key films influencing her style:
    • The Graduate
    • French Nouvelle Vague, e.g., A Man and a Woman, Breathless

    “That was my inspiration at the beginning – more cinematic.” (05:51)

Light and Place: How Cities Shape Imagery

• Distinct City Light
  • Paris: “beautiful, warm light” from stone buildings

    • “In Paris… it reflects that beautiful, warm light.” (06:15)

  • New York: “an edge to your pictures,” “bouncing off of mirrors or shiny skyscrapers.”
  • Los Angeles: Brighter, harsher light, “really hard to shoot in for some reason.” (07:01)
  • Miami: Early days marked by Deco buildings and unique subculture.

Process, Collaboration, and Archive

• Roles on Set

  • Hanson focuses on teamwork and storytelling:

    “My job was kind of to give it my own point of view, but also respect what the magazine needed or respect the clothes…” (08:05)

  • The collaborative dynamic of stylists, editors, hair/makeup.

• Archival Practice and Selection

  • Her vast archive lives in a New York City storage unit and her studio.
  • Selection for the book was emotional and intuitive, with a willingness to accept thoughtful outside editing:

    “I had to let them [the creative team] do it because I was like, my baby, don’t throw that picture out.” (10:34)

Artistic Evolution & Roots

• Origins

  • Early start with her sister, yearbook photos, and building a darkroom as a teen.
  • Influenced by a background in art history, but photography is described as visceral and emotional rather than intellectual:

    “Photography’s so visceral for me… it’s a really emotional thing.” (14:52)

• Entry into Fashion Photography

  • Inspired by her friend Lisa, networking, and persistent effort in Paris.
  • Driving force:

    “I just had a drive, and I just wanted it. … I would just go to see these art directors in Paris, and it was a different time.” (17:00)

Gender in the Industry

• On Being a Woman Photographer
  • Hanson acknowledges a gender divide with few women like Sarah Moon, Annie Leibovitz, and Ellen Von Unwerth active at the time, but places greater emphasis on personal drive:

    “I just say to everybody, just work really hard, keep your… and do what you feel. … make sure that it comes from you.” (17:47 – 18:39)

The Book, Gallery Show, and Notable Subjects

• Exhibition Synergy

  • The Staley Wise gallery show happened organically, as a companion to the book. Picture selection for the show was delegated to the gallery:

    “I let them choose because I think they know what people are interested in seeing.” (19:43)

• Favorite Collaborators

  • Close personal and professional relationships with models, especially Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, and several lesser-known figures.

    “Christy is an obvious lovely person and also an incredible person and still remains a really good friend.” (20:01)

  • Shot Beyoncé, emphasizing her professionalism and ease to work with:

    “First of all, I’ve never seen anyone who works as hard as she does. It’s not an accident that she’s who she is.” (20:41)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On The Unique Intimacy of the Era:

  “It was pre iPhones and it was pre Internet and I think that allowed a kind of intimacy… allowed you to have some privacy and the excitement of seeing the contact sheets when they came back in a week…”
  (01:35 – 02:55)

• On Retouching and Beauty:

  “If you look at old magazines, there’s Helmut Newton pictures. The girl has bloodshot eyes and nobody thought anything about it. But now I think our eyes train differently.”
  (03:39)

• On Her Photographic Style and Selection:

  “I was always really interested in life…what I don’t know. And I had an emotional reaction to the images.”
  (10:53)

• On Beyoncé’s Work Ethic:

  “It’s not an accident that she’s who she is… I could have gone on. She’s a very special person.”
  (20:41)

• On Motivation and Persistence:

  “I just had a drive, and I just wanted it. So I would just go to see these art directors in Paris…they started giving me little things.”
  (17:00)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• Opening & Introduction: 00:09–01:25
• 90s Intimacy & Collaboration: 01:27–02:42
• Shooting Film, Analog vs Digital: 02:42–04:44
• Influences (Camera, Cinema, Cities): 05:03–07:55
• On-Set Role & Teamwork: 08:05–08:57
• Archive Search & Book Curation: 09:01–10:53
• Photographic Style/Selection: 10:53–11:47
• Early Career & Family/Lisa: 11:59–16:03
• Drive & Breaking into Industry: 16:37–17:37
• Gender Divide in Photography: 17:40–18:39
• Book-Gallery Relationship: 19:13–19:43
• On Models & Beyoncé: 19:51–21:20

Conclusion

This episode offers an intimate look at Pamela Hanson’s journey through the 1990s fashion world, her creative inspirations, artistic philosophy, and enduring relationships. Through candid memories and reflection, Hanson provides insightful commentary on authenticity in photography, the magic of analog processes, and the collaborative heart of her work. Whether discussing the muted camaraderie among her models or the raw, unretouched honesty of her images, Hanson champions a deeply human approach to art and image-making—a perspective that still resonates in today's digital world.