All Of It: Recipes and Stories of Displacement, Resilience, and Community
Episode Summary – Released May 19, 2025
Introduction
In this compelling episode of All Of It, hosted by Alison Stewart of WNYC, listeners are introduced to James Beard Award-winning author and chef, Hawa Hassan. Hassan discusses her latest cookbook, Setting a Place for Recipes and Stories of Displacement, Resilience, and Community, which delves into the intricate relationship between food, culture, and the experiences of displaced communities from eight countries affected by war.
Hawa Hassan’s Journey and New Cookbook
Alison Stewart opens the conversation by highlighting Hassan’s previous appearance on the show in 2020 and her first cookbook, Bebe's Kitchen. Hassan elaborates on the evolution from her first work to her new publication:
“MB's kitchen was to focus on celebrating grandmothers of East Africa and their power and their love for food. But setting a place, I really wanted to go a bit deeper.” [01:58]
Hassan emphasizes that her second book is a more personal exploration, intertwining recipes with stories of displacement and cultural preservation. She aims to showcase how food serves as a vital link to heritage, especially in the face of adversity and migration.
The Role of Food in Preserving Culture
A significant portion of the discussion centers on the pivotal role food plays in maintaining cultural identity. Hassan shares insights gained during her research:
“All of our connectiveness when it comes to food and how we prepare it and the questions that were constantly asking ourselves daily... just using food to tell those stories.” [02:52]
She highlights that through daily culinary practices, people preserve their traditions and communicate their identities, reinforcing the notion that food is more than sustenance—it is a narrative tool.
Research Travels and Encounters
Hassan recounts her research trips, particularly her experiences in El Salvador. She discusses the misconceptions surrounding the safety and culture of the region, which her visits helped to dispel:
“I wanted to go examine El Salvador for myself... I was met with warmth and laughter and food and joy.” [04:29]
These travels not only enriched her understanding but also deepened her appreciation for the resilience and creativity of displaced communities in rebuilding their lives and cultures.
Stories and Recipes from the Cookbook
The episode delves into specific recipes featured in Hassan’s book, each accompanied by personal stories that highlight cultural significance and resilience.
- Rayna Abdelhamid’s Chicken Over Rice (Egypt)
Hassan shares her interaction with Rayna Abdelhamid from Little Egypt in Queens:
“It's a little bit of home, it's reimagined with what's available. It's a comforting food that speaks to her belonging even when she feels far away.” [07:56]
- Braised Dandelion Greens with Caramelized Onions (Lebanon)
Exploring Lebanese traditions, Hassan explains the symbolic meanings behind the dish:
“It symbolizes the toughness of growth and home... it's resilient.” [08:29]
- Salvadorian Quesadilla
Hassan describes the unique aspects of Salvadorian quesadillas, differentiating them from their more widely known counterparts:
“It's a hybrid. It's a cake bread. It's both sweet and savory.” [10:00]
Each recipe serves as a testament to the adaptability and enduring spirit of communities facing displacement.
Stories of Community and Perseverance
One poignant story discussed involves Francisco Martinez, a coffee farm manager. Hassan highlights Francisco’s dedication and how coffee farming represents more than just a livelihood:
“Coffee's woven into the fabric of their community. It’s a source of pride and a symbol of perseverance.” [11:03]
This narrative underscores the deeper connections between individuals, their work, and their cultural heritage.
Future Projects: Exploring Food Rituals
Looking ahead, Hassan reveals her plans for her next book, which will focus on global food rituals:
“What do you eat when you speak to God? What do you eat when the king dies?” [12:35]
She expresses a desire to explore how different cultures use food to mark significant life events and rituals, further expanding her exploration of food's role in societal practices.
Dedication and Personal Reflections
Hassan dedicates Setting a Place for Us to her husband, Kwame, acknowledging his support during the book’s creation:
“He provided me the care and the need that I needed so that I can extend that to the people I was interviewing.” [13:37]
This personal touch highlights the collaborative effort behind her work and the importance of support systems in creative endeavors.
Conclusion
Alison Stewart wraps up the interview by congratulating Hawa Hassan on her new release, emphasizing the book's significance in understanding the intersection of food, culture, and displacement.
“Thank you, Allison. This is a delight.” [14:27]
Final Thoughts
In this episode of All Of It, Hawa Hassan eloquently illustrates how food serves as a powerful medium for preserving culture, fostering community, and expressing resilience amidst displacement. Her cookbook not only offers delicious recipes but also honors the stories and traditions of those who continue to create and sustain their cultural identities wherever they may find themselves.