Small Stakes, Big Opinions: Where The Best Fries Are

Summary

Podcast Summary

Podcast: All Of It with Alison Stewart
Episode: Small Stakes, Big Opinions: Where The Best Fries Are
Date: May 28, 2026
Host: Alison Stewart (WNYC)
Guest: Brian Kim (Editorial Lead, The Infatuation)
Main Theme: An engaging, humorous, and passionate debate about the best French fries in New York City, including ideal fry characteristics, iconic locations, sauces, drinks, and the culture of fries.

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Episode Overview

In this lively installment of the "Small Stakes, Big Opinions" series, Alison Stewart and guest Brian Kim (from The Infatuation) dig into the storied, nuanced world of French fries in NYC. They debate fry shapes and styles, uncover hidden gems across the boroughs, and invite listener passion, all while exploring how fries are both a humble comfort food and a canvas for creativity—and sometimes, controversy.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Importance and Ideal of a “Good Fry”

• Fries as Essential Yet Forgiving:
  • Brian Kim: “Fries are a…high floor food. They can only be so bad…not that good, but still pretty good.” (01:45)
• The Platonic Fry:
  • Brian Kim: “…slightly larger, slightly thicker than McDonald’s. Very salty. So salty it could burn a hole in your esophagus and a nice deep golden brown. I don’t really want a pale fry.” (02:00)

2. Pairings: The Iconic Food and Drink Combos

• Martini & Fries — The New York Happy Meal:
  • “Why does a martini seem to be the most desired fry partner?”
    • Brian Kim: “That gin or vodka is going to grip onto your mouth and tear that sodium down your throat.” (02:30)
• Alternative Pairings:
  • Brian Kim: “Diet Coke. Diet Coke, you people.” (02:56)
  • “Or regular Coke, if you prefer…you can drink Diet Coke for days.” (03:03)

3. Fries: Shapes and Styles, From Waffle to Sidewinder

• Waffle, Curly, Cottage, Shoestring, Wedges—all styles have champions.
• Brian Kim: “I don’t think there’s any one wrong way to serve a fry. The thing about fries is everybody likes their fry a little bit different.” (03:33)
• On Sweet Potato Fries:
  • Multiple listeners nominate sweet potato fries, especially at Mansion Diner and Cubbies:
    • Brian: “There was a period in my life when I would only eat sweet potato fries, but…I feel like they used to be more common and now you don't see them as much.” (04:21)

4. Listener Call-ins: Beloved Fry Destinations

• Highlights include:
  • MP Taverna (Irvington, NY) — “twice fried smashed potato fries.” (04:38)
  • Laroque, Lafayette, and pommes frites with “30 plus sauces.” (05:09, 05:52)
  • Pommes Frites (McDougal St.): “over 15 dips to choose from.” (08:36)
  • The Edge (Harlem): “super brown and crispy on the outside and super salty. And I think they're double fried or maybe even triple fried.” (12:57)
  • Mr. Melo (Williamsburg): “drunk Greek fries...tossed with cheddar cheese and feta cheese, then topped with tzatziki and smoked paprika.” (14:02)
  • Ruby’s Oyster Bar (Rye, NY): “shoestring fries…with the regular skin on, and they come out crispy.” (17:56)
  • Oscars (West Village): “If it doesn’t have the outside skin on, they aren’t real fries. And they’re fairly big fries. And they’re really crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.” (18:23)
  • JG Mellon (Upper East Side): famous for cottage fries. (19:17)

5. Fry Science & Sauce Debates

• Surface Area:
  • Listener Mark: “They’re a bit peppery and they’re nice and thin so you can…get a bunch on the fork…more surface area, more pepper, more salt, more sauce, better bite.” (05:25)
  • Brian Kim: “Surface area...that’s an interesting one.” (05:45)
• Sauces:
  • Brian Kim: “We want the fries to be able to stand on their own. But if you want to know what I like to dip my fries in, it would probably be mayo or aioli or maybe some Dijon in there too.” (06:04)
  • Host: “It's salt and you have to do salt and vinegar.”
  • Brian Kim: “Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.” (06:24)

6. Technicalities: Fry Cooking Techniques

• Sidewinder Fries:
  • Lovely’s Old Fashioned (642 Ninth Ave.): “A sidewinder fry looks kind of like a mangled Nike swoosh or like a bird's talon. Curved and twisty…introduced in 2013 by JR Simplot.” (07:19)
• Duck Fat Fries:
  • At Raoul’s: “I think they’re duck fat though, right? …It just gives them this extra savory quality. A little je ne sais quoi. All I can tell you is that they are delicious.” (07:51–08:04)
• Battered Fries:
  • On battered fries, Long Island Bar: “Typically when they do that, it means it's not gluten free.” (10:00)

7. Loaded Fries & Novelty Variations

• Loaded Fries:
  • Brian Kim: “For our Best French Fries guide, we actually didn’t include any loaded fries…what we wanted to talk about were the fries themselves. The fanciest...are the fries at Zab Zab…where the fries have makrut lime chili and toasted rice powder.” (11:32–12:02)

8. Nostalgia & Influence: The McDonald’s Ideal

• Brian Kim: “So many people grew up eating McDonald's fries, and that's what they're gonna be seeking for the rest of their lives…The highest compliment you can give to a fry is often McDonald’s-esque.” (12:20)

9. Price of Perfection

• Alison Stewart: “Some of these fries can be up to $15. Should someone be paying that for fries?”
• Brian Kim: “It really depends how bad you want those fries…Have I paid $15 for fries? Yes. Was I happy about it? Absolutely not. But…they are delicious. You are hardly ever going to be disappointed.” (09:13–09:42)

10. The Skin-On Debate

• Robin (Listener): “If it doesn’t have the outside skin on, they aren’t real fries.” (18:23)
• Brian Kim: “Should fries have the skin on? I like a skin on fry. Most of the time. I think I prefer skin off.” (18:56)

11. Spices, Global Twists, and Beverages

• Fries at The Fly (Bed Stuy): “tossed in the same spices as their rotisserie chickens—subtle but present.” (20:16)
• Brian Kim: “I’m pro spice. If you want to spice your fries, absolutely. Go for it.” (20:16)
• Alison Stewart: “We haven’t really talked about beers and fries. How do you feel about that?”
• Brian Kim: “Oh, yeah, natural pairing, of course. Beer and fries.” (15:46)

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Fry Essentialism:
  • Brian Kim: “Even just decent fries will do the trick.” (01:34)
• On Maximum Saltiness:
  • Brian Kim: “So salty it could burn a hole in your esophagus.” (02:00)
• On Fry-Drink Pairings:
  • Alison Stewart: “Martini and fries is sometimes called the New York Happy Meal.” (02:19)
• On Truffle Fries:
  • Brian Kim: “I am generally pro truffle fry. I will hardly ever order them because…they can be divisive. Also, your mouth is going to smell like truffle for the rest of the day.” (13:43)
• On McDonald’s as the Gold Standard:
  • Brian Kim: “The highest compliment you can give to a fry is often McDonald’s-esque…” (12:20)
• On Culinary Waves:
  • Brian Kim: “I don’t really think there are waves when it comes to fries. We still love the old school fries.” (21:01)
• On the Ubiquity of Fry Enjoyment:
  • Brian Kim: “Even if they’re not that great, they’re probably still pretty good.” (22:06)

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Timestamps for Key Segments

| Timestamp | Topic/Highlight | |-----------|----------------| | 00:28 | Episode theme introduced, call for listener opinions | | 01:27 | How important are good fries? Brian Kim weighs in. | | 02:00 | Brian's ideal fry: size, salt, and color. | | 02:19 | The martini & fries “New York Happy Meal” pairing. | | 03:20 | Fry shapes and the diversity of styles. | | 04:08 | Listener recommendations: Mansion Diner, Cubbies for sweet potato fries. | | 04:33 | First call-in: MP Taverna and twice-fried smashed potato fries. | | 05:09 | Listener Mark: Laroque for mayo-dipped fries, Lafayette for steak frites. | | 05:52 | The importance of sauce in fry enjoyment. | | 06:51 | “Lovely’s Old Fashioned” and the unique Sidewinder fry explained. | | 07:51 | Raoul’s duck fat fries and what makes them special. | | 08:36 | Multiple shout-outs for Pommes Frites and sauce variety. | | 09:13 | Are $15 fries worth it? Brian offers honest thoughts. | | 11:32 | Loaded fries vs. “true” fries: where is the line? | | 12:20 | The McDonald’s archetype and nostalgia discussed. | | 13:43 | Truffle fries: flavors, controversies, and after-effects. | | 14:02 | Listener Nate: “Drunk Greek Fries” at Mr. Mello. | | 15:46 | Beer and fries, another classic pairing. | | 17:05 | All-American in Massapequa, classic old-school fries. | | 18:56 | Skin-on fries: pro versus con. | | 19:17 | Cottage fries at JG Mellon—what makes them special? | | 20:16 | Spice on fries: subtlety at The Fly in Bed Stuy. | | 21:11 | Old school vs. new wave: is there a “third wave” for fries? | | 21:29 | Roll N Roaster in Sheepshead Bay and the joy of cheese sauce. | | 21:52 | Katz’s Deli—great fries, often overlooked. | | 22:06 | Brian Kim's closing thought: "Just go out there, eat some fries." |

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Fry Institutions Mentioned

• Lovely’s Old Fashioned (642 Ninth Ave.): Sidewinder fries
• Raoul’s (SoHo): Duck fat fries
• Nathan’s Coney Island: Iconic, unreproducible original fries
• Pommes Frites (McDougal St.): 30+ sauces
• Houseman (Hudson Square): Potato skin–tipped fries
• Bluestone Lane: Australian-style wedges
• Long Island Bar (Cobble Hill): Battered fries
• The Edge (Harlem): Ultra-crispy, super salty
• Laroque, Lafayette, Balthazar, Minetta Tavern, Odeon: Classic French bistro fries
• Mr. Mello (Williamsburg): “Drunk Greek fries”
• Five Guys: Reliable, affordable fries
• Val Nut DUI (West Village): Fries and 30 kinds of Belgian beer
• JG Mellon: Cottage fries
• The Fly (Bed Stuy): Spice-dusted fries
• Stone Park (Park Slope): Steak frites
• Old Town Bar, Roll N Roaster, Katz’s Deli: Old-school fry havens

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Conclusion & Final Notes

The episode underscores New York’s fry landscape as passionate, diverse, nostalgic, and ever-evolving—yet deeply rooted in the joys of a simple, piping hot, perfectly salty potato. Listeners and experts alike recognize that while there are endless interpretations and arguments, fries in New York remain reliably pleasurable: “Just go out there, eat some fries. Even if they’re not that great, they’re probably still pretty good.” (22:06, Brian Kim)

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For listeners, this episode is both a practical guide and a love letter to the beloved French fry—NYC-style.

Transcript

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[Alison Stewart]

This is all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. It's time for another edition of Small Steaks Big opinions, the subject, french fries. Most restaurants have fries on the menu, but perhaps they have their own take, whether it's curly cottage waffle wedges, double fried, battered spice, or even fried in duck fat. So for the next installment of our Small Steaks Big Opinion series, we're tackling the controversial question, what what are the best fries in New York? Listeners, it's your time to weigh in. Our number is 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. What fry? What shape of your fry is your favorite? Do you like them skinny or crisp? Do you like a steak fry? A waffle fry? Where can you find the best fries in New York? 212-433-WNYC 212-433-9692. With me now to help us find an answer where you can find some great fries is Brian Kim, editorial lead for for the Infatuation. It is nice to see you again.

[Brian Kim]

Hi. Thanks so much for having me on.

[Alison Stewart]

As someone who eats out a lot, how important are good fries?

[Brian Kim]

Okay, so that's a complicated question because good fries are very important, but even just decent fries will do the trick.

[Alison Stewart]

Just decent fries?

[Caller/Host]

Really?

[Brian Kim]

Yeah, yeah. Fries are a, I want to say a high floor food. They can only be so bad. And by so bad, I mean they can only be so nice. Not that good, but still pretty good.

[Alison Stewart]

Do you have your platonic ideal of a french fry?

[Brian Kim]

Yeah. If I had to say what my ideal fry is, I think I would go with something slightly larger, slightly thicker than McDonald's. Very salty. So salty it could burn a hole in your esophagus and a nice deep golden brown. I don't really want a pale fry. I will eat one. But it's not ideal.

[Alison Stewart]

Well, the classic combo is martini and fries. It's sometimes called the New York Happy Meal. Why does a martini seem to be the most desired fry partner?

[Brian Kim]

I don't know. I think a martini is a nice stiff drink. Obviously super cold. You really need something to wash away that sodium. Like I was just saying, fries are super salty. At least the very Best fries are. And that gin or vodka is going to grip onto your mouth and tear that sodium down your throat.

[Alison Stewart]

Is there any other combination, any other beverage that you think goes especially well with fries?

[Brian Kim]

I would have to go with Diet Coke on this one.

[Alison Stewart]

Diet Coke. Diet Coke, you people.

[Brian Kim]

Or regular Coke, if you prefer.

[Alison Stewart]

They're very different, by the way.

[Brian Kim]

Yeah, yeah.

[Caller/Host]

So why Diet Coke? Just because of the acidity, the nice

[Brian Kim]

and crisp, you know, you can just. You can drink Diet Coke for days. Sometimes I'll go through like four glasses of Diet Coke in one sitting. I don't recommend it. You probably shouldn't do that, but I do.

[Caller/Host]

There are so many different ways you

[Alison Stewart]

can turn a potato into a fry. It can be wedge, it can be shoestring, it can be waffle.

[Caller/Host]

How do you think this contributes to the debate over fries? That it can be served in so many ways?

[Brian Kim]

Yeah, you know, I don't think there's any one wrong way to serve a fry. The thing about fries is everybody likes their fry a little bit different. If you love waffle fries, great. If you love curly fries, wonderful. I love both of those things, but I'll usually take a classic fry over those or a cottage fry.

[Alison Stewart]

We've got calls already. Best fries in New York City. The sweet potato fries from the family owned Mansion Diner on York Avenue, 86th in Manhattan. The sweet potato fries are long, thick, deeply ridged, crispy on the outside, and lusciously soft on the inside.

[Brian Kim]

Ooh, soft on the inside, that's important.

[Alison Stewart]

Best fries hands down, Cubbies on 10th Avenue in Hell's Kitchen. Standard fries in the most delicious sweet potato fries. Where do you stand on sweet potatoes? That's the second mention of sweet potato fries.

[Brian Kim]

Oh, my gosh. There was a period in my life when I would only eat sweet potato fries, but I haven't had one in, I would say maybe five years. Maybe they're getting less and less common. I feel like they used to be more common and now you don't see them as much.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Judy, who's calling from Nourishel. Hey, Judy, thanks for calling all of it.

[Caller]

Hi, our favorite fries are in restaurant in Irvington, New York. The restaurant is called MP Taverna, standing for Michael Salakis. And he makes twice fried smashed potato fries. And they're fries that I just dream about. They're the, the absolute best.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you for calling in. Let's talk to Mark in Boreham Hill. Hey, Mark, thanks for calling all of it. What is your French fry of choice?

[Caller]

It's my treat. I'm a fan of both of yours. I think the fries at Laroque and French are the best in the city for dipping into mayonnaise. But if I want to smother them in a poivre with a steak, I like Lafayette's fries best.

[Caller/Host]

Ooh, tell us why.

[Caller]

They're a bit peppery and they're nice and thin so you can kind of get a bunch on the fork. And you don't have too much of the sort of plain potato taste. You have. More surface area, more pepper, more salt, more sauce, better bite.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you for calling in surface area. That is something to consider when you're considering what kind of fries you like.

[Brian Kim]

Surface area. Yeah. That's an interesting one. So going back to lorac, actually is what I was thinking about when I was thinking about my ideal fries.

[Alison Stewart]

You know, most people eat them with ketchup. I personally, I like pommes down at McDougal. They have like 30 plus sauces you can pick from. What is the role of sauce when you were considering the fries?

[Brian Kim]

Sauce didn't factor into it. We don't have the fries to be able to stand on their own. But if you want to know what I like to dip my fries in, it would probably be mayo or aioli or maybe some Dijon in there too. Like mix the aioli and the mayo with a Dijon. You have a Dijonnaise when you're in New England.

[Caller/Host]

It's salt and you have to do salt and vinegar.

[Brian Kim]

Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

[Alison Stewart]

It's really big. We are talking about the best fries in New York City.

[Caller/Host]

It's another edition of our Small Steaks Big Opinion series. We're tackling this huge issue with Brian Kim, editorial lead of the Infatuation. Where can you get the best fries in New York? Give us a call.

[Alison Stewart]

212-433-WNYC, 212-433-9692.

[Caller/Host]

Shout out where your favorite fries are in New York. Let's get to your list.

[Alison Stewart]

Brian.

[Caller/Host]

Lovely's old fashioned at 642 Ninth Ave. Can you describe this place for us?

[Brian Kim]

Lovely's Old Fashioned is about a 10 seat old school burger counter. It looks like it's from the 1950s. It opened a couple of years ago and they serve something called Sidewinder fries. As far as I know, they're the only place in New York City serving those. That is probably not correct. It's the only place where I have found them the Sidewinder fries.

[Alison Stewart]

So what's a Sidewinder fry.

[Brian Kim]

A sidewinder fry looks kind of like a mangled Nike swoosh or like a bird's talon. A really big bird. It's curved and a little twisty. And they were actually, I think they were introduced in 2013 by this company called JR Simplot. So they are a relatively new type of fry.

[Alison Stewart]

Deep frying. Deep frying. Let's talk about it. And Raoul's. Raoul's is known for a special deep fry technique. What did they do?

[Brian Kim]

Oh, gosh. You know, I was at Raul's three nights ago, but I am not really a scholar of Raul's fries. I know they're delicious. I think they're duck fat, though, right?

[Commercial Announcer]

Yeah.

[Brian Kim]

Yeah.

[Alison Stewart]

So what does that do to the fry? I love their fries.

[Brian Kim]

What does it do? I think it just gives them this extra savory quality. A little je ne sais quoi. All I can tell you is that they are delicious. I did confirm this a few nights ago.

[Alison Stewart]

He's on the job. He's doing the reporting. Let's talk about this. This says. This text says Nathan's of Coney island because they are unique, not reproducible, and only available at the Coney island hot dog stand. The others from Nathan's franchises and the frozen ones don't cut it. That's important. This. Hi, I'm Jennifer from Astoria. My favorite is Pomm Frite.

[Caller]

Yes.

[Alison Stewart]

Frites has over 15 dips to choose from. They have more than that. That's on McDougal Street. And this says, my favorite fries are at Houseman's in Hudson Square. They're the Plateau Tonic. Friedel. Friedel.

[Brian Kim]

Get it?

[Alison Stewart]

Crispy and fluffy, tipped with potato skins, rich, golden brown and potatoey flavored. Their burger is also low key, among the best in the city. And this says a lesser known combination, but common in Australia, potato wedges with sour cream and sweet chili sauce. Yum. The Bluestone Lane franchise has them.

[Brian Kim]

Oh, I didn't know that. I've been to Bluestone.

[Alison Stewart]

Yeah. My question is, some of these places that we've mentioned or are mentioned, the fries can be up to $15. Should someone be paying that for fries?

[Brian Kim]

You know, it really depends on how bad you want those fries. Have I paid $15 for fries? Yes. Have I been? Was I happy about it? Absolutely not. But the thing about fries is they are delicious. You are hardly ever going to be disappointed with them. Yeah.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk about the Long Island Bar in Cobble Hill at 110 Atlantic Avenue. They've got sort of A battered fry.

[Brian Kim]

Which bar is this?

[Alison Stewart]

Is this the Long Island Bar?

[Brian Kim]

Oh, Long Island Bar. Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's a classic.

[Alison Stewart]

So what is a battered? What does that entail?

[Brian Kim]

I'm actually not quite sure how Long Island Bar serves their fries. Yeah, I don't know how the battering process works a couple places, but it works. But it works do that, though. Yeah. And typically when they do that, it means it's not gluten free.

[Alison Stewart]

Oh, that's important to know. We are talking about where you can get the best fries in New York. It's our Small Stakes Big Opinion series. Brian Kim is the editorial lead of the Infatuation. We want to hear from you. Where can you get the best fries in New York? What makes them so good? Give a shout out to your favorite fries in New York. The number is 212-433. WNYC, 212-433-9692. After the break, we'll talk about a Sheepshead Bay institution. You're listening to all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. For our next installment of our Small Steaks Big Opinion series, we're tackling the controversial question, where can you get the best French fries in New York? My guest is Brian Kim, editorial lead from the Infatuation. We're also hearing from you. Where do you get the best fries? Fries? What makes them so good? What shape of fry is your favorite? Our number is 212433 WNYC, 212-433-9692. Brian, you see a lot of menus with loaded fries. Like at a sports bar, they have all kinds of toppings on the top. At what point does it become something different than just a French fry?

[Brian Kim]

So for our Best French Fries guide, we actually didn't include any of these loaded fries. Like poutine or like chili cheese fries. They're still. But what we wanted to talk about was the fries themselves. The fanciest, I want to say our fries get on this guide are the fries at Zab Zab on the Lower east side at Essex Market. Or actually Zab Burger is what it's called. And it's this Thai smash burger place where the fries have makrut lime chili and toasted rice powder.

[Alison Stewart]

I think, ooh, yeah, that's kind of exciting. McDonald's famous for their fries. You know what they taste like. You know, when you go by McDonald's, you can smell them. How much are restaurants in pursuit of the McDonald's fries? Or have we just moved on as a Society.

[Brian Kim]

No, no, no. I don't think we've moved on. I don't think we're ever gonna move on. I think so many people grew up eating McDonald's fries, and that's what they're gonna be seeking for the rest of their lives. I am one of those people, and I think a lot of my colleagues are, too. The highest compliment you can give to a fry is often McDonald's esque, and that's what people are looking for. Something thin, not too thin, and really salty and crisp.

[Caller/Host]

Let's talk to Tina, calling in from Manhattan.

[Alison Stewart]

Hey, Tina, thank you for taking the

[Caller/Host]

time to call, all of it. We want to hear your small steaks, big opinions.

[Caller]

Thanks, Allison. I just.

I'm surprised not to have heard about truffle fries from you guys yet. And the most amazing truffle fries with this awesome sauce. I don't know what they put in it. I think it is aioli adjacent at the Wolf on Amsterdam avenue in the 80s. And then there's my neighborhood spot in Harlem called the Edge. It's on Edgecombe Avenue, and they have. I think your guests would love these because they're super brown and crispy on the outside and super salty. And I think they're double fried or maybe even triple fried. I'm not sure how they do it, but they're always super crispy and salty.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you for your recommendation.

[Caller/Host]

What is your take on truffle fries?

[Brian Kim]

I am generally pro truffle fry. I will hardly ever order them because I'm eating with other people, and they can be divisive. And also, your mouth is going to smell like truffle for the rest of the day.

[Caller/Host]

Let's talk to Nate from Williamsburg. Hey, Nate, thanks for calling all of it.

[Caller]

Hey, how's it going?

[Caller/Host]

Going okay.

[Caller]

So I own a bar in Williamsburg called Mr. Mello M E L O, and we're famous for our drunk Greek fries. So these are French fries that are tossed with cheddar cheese and feta cheese and then topped with tzatziki and smoked paprika.

[Caller/Host]

Oh, that's really, really great. Was that a recipe from your family or from. Or is this just something y' all made up?

[Caller]

So it's actually. Well, my business partner is from. Originally from Phoenix, Arizona, and he would go to a Greek diner out there that made a version of them. And so we kind of gave it our own little twist and did our version of it. And while we're on the topic of french fries, can I throw one more thing in there?

Sure.

[Caller/Host]

Go for it,

[Caller]

we also participate in something called the New York City Happy Meal. So we serve. Which is basically, if you don't know, it's French fries served with a martini.

[Caller/Host]

Oh, yes.

[Caller]

And we offer that at Mr. Mello as well. So we offer just a basket of regular French fries and one of our feta brine gin martinis for $20.

[Caller/Host]

Wow, that's a good deal. Thanks for calling in, Nate. This says, if it hasn't already been said, Cafe Zafry has the best fries. So well seasoned, fluffy, and huge. This says for those who refuse or cannot pay $15. Five guys. This one says one of my faves is Val Nut DUI in the West Village that serves 30 kinds of Belgian beer and the only food as fries. We haven't really talked about beers and fries. How do you feel about that?

[Brian Kim]

Oh, yeah, natural pairing, of course. Beer and fries.

[Caller/Host]

This one says Mineta Tavern. Thin, crispy, salty fries. Just perfect. I believe that is on your list.

[Brian Kim]

Minetta Tavern is on my list, and it's probably in my top five fries in New York City. Even though I probably couldn't be able to tell the difference between Mineta Tavern fries and Balthazar fries. They're both delicious.

[Caller/Host]

Well, it's both Keith McNally, right? Yeah, they both have that in common. But you also have Odeon in Tribeca on the list, and it says that they're sort of similar to Minetta Tavern. How are the ideas of fries and important to Odeon? To Odeon being like a Tribeca staple?

[Brian Kim]

The first thing I think of when I think of the Odeon is a martini. The second thing is the fries. Third is the burger. I love the fries at the Odeon. I love the fries. All the sister restaurants, too, like Cafe Clooney, I believe they're sister restaurants. And also Keith McNally was a founder of the Odeon. So it's no surprise that the Odeon fries are delicious because, you know, Balthazar and Mineta also have delicious fries.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Debbie, who is calling in. Hey, Debbie, thanks for calling in. Tell us your favorite fry.

[Caller]

Yeah, hi. Thanks for taking my call. My favorite fry is definitely all American and Massapequa.

[Brian Kim]

Oh, I've been there. I love that place. The drive thru.

[Caller]

Yeah. Well, it's a drive through. You can get out and wait. And it's always packed. It's been there for like 50 years, I think. And yeah, they use giant bags of Idaho potatoes. They're salty, they're big, and there's a little bit of sweetness in them. So they're really? They're special.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you so much for calling. This text says I am the former beverage director for laroque, which just got a shout out for best fries. And I have to agree, they are among the best in New York City. I wanted to add that part of the reason why the martini fries combo works so beautifully is because of that high, low nature of the pairing.

[Brian Kim]

Absolutely. Also, fries are a great chaser.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Lindsay calling in from Rye. Hey, Lindsey, thanks for calling all of it. What's your favorite fry?

[Caller]

I have to give a shout out to the shoestring fries at Ruby's Oyster Bar and Bistro in Rye, New York. They're just, they're perfect. They keep the regular skin on them and they come out crispy. Big or small, but they're just delicious. And the sauce they come with is excellent.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you so much for calling in. Let's talk to Robin calling in from Long Island City. Hey, Robin, thanks for calling all of it.

[Caller]

Thank you. Oscars. You've heard of Oscars? On Hudson in the West Village? Small place, wonderful food, fish, meat. It's a French place. And they have the best fries. As somebody mentioned, with the skin on. If it doesn't have the outside skin on, they aren't real fries. And they're fairly big fries. And they're really crisp on the outside and soft on the inside.

[Caller/Host]

I do like have a subset of small steaks.

[Alison Stewart]

Big opinions. Should fries have the skin on?

[Brian Kim]

Should fries have the skin on? I like a skin on fry. Most of the time. I think I prefer skin off. And I have been to Oscars. I didn't know they had great fries.

[Caller/Host]

Well, there you go. Let's talk about an Upper east side institution, JG Mellon on third Avenue. They make cottage fries. What's your definition of a cottage fry?

[Brian Kim]

A cottage fry is sort of thumbprint shaped and r like a coin, but with ridges and a couple of places. Serve them famously. JG Melon.

[Caller/Host]

And you like that shape or do you like them tall and skinny? Just you personally? I know there was a lot of people involved in this, but just me personally.

[Brian Kim]

I love the fries at JG Melon, but I can't tell if that's because I love JG Melon. You know what I mean? Just. But they are objectively good. Are they my favorite fries in the city? Probably not. Will I order them every single time I go to JG Melon? Of course.

[Caller/Host]

This says GMT Tavern on LaGuardia Place. Thin, crispy, salty, perfect with a pint of Guinness. I like that we're getting beverages with. This is too. People are like, way into this. Let's talk about the Fly in Bed Stuy on Classen Avenue. The fries are tossed in the same spices that they toss the rotisserie chickens with. How do you feel about spice in

[Brian Kim]

the fries at the Fly? The spice is not overwhelming. It's. You can definitely taste it, but it's kind of subtle. I'm pro spice. If you want to spice your fries. Absolutely. Go for it.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Alex from Park Slope. Hey, Alex, thanks for calling, all of it.

[Caller]

Hi, I just wanted to highlight this local classic here. Stone park is the restaurant and they

[Brian Kim]

serve a steak frite that is consistent, crispy, and just amazing.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you so much for calling. You know, they've been talk about like the third wave of food, like the third wave of coffee. Where do you think fries fit into that? Are we in the midst of a French fry revolution in New York right now? Should we stick with the old school? What do you think?

[Brian Kim]

No, I don't really think there are waves when it comes to fries. We still love the old school fries. Like Balthazar, like Minetta Tavern, like JG Melon.

[Alison Stewart]

Like somebody has put in, said that Old Town has the best fries. Speaking of older establishments, are there any fries that I've missed that are important?

[Brian Kim]

Oh, my gosh. I think we covered the main ones. We almost talked about Roll in Roaster in Sheepshead Bay.

[Alison Stewart]

Yeah, you tell me about that.

[Brian Kim]

Yes, another cottage fry place. Pretty indistinguishable from the cottage fries at JG Melon. They might even get them from the same supplier. The thing about Roll N Roaster is at a Roll Roaster, you can get them covered in this plasticky cheese sauce and it is delicious.

[Alison Stewart]

I heard cheese with a Z. Yeah, that sounds right.

[Caller/Host]

And this says, finally, Katz's has great fries.

[Alison Stewart]

I did not know that.

[Brian Kim]

I do get the fries when I go to Katz's. It's true.

[Caller/Host]

This says Cafe riazor on West 16th street in Manhattan. Rated best by the Daily News critic.

[Alison Stewart]

It is still true. Any final thoughts on fries?

[Brian Kim]

No. Just go out there, eat some fries. Even if they're not that great, they're probably still pretty good.

[Alison Stewart]

Brian Kim is the editorial lead of the Infatuation. He helped us out with our small stake. Big opinions on French fries. Thanks for coming in. Coming up on the show tomorrow, the

[Caller/Host]

Broadway musical the Lost Boys is up

[Alison Stewart]

for 12 Tony Awards. We'll talk to two of the stars

[Caller/Host]

about their roles in the show's director and scenic designer about creating that spectacular set. I'm Alison Stewart.

[Alison Stewart]

I appreciate you listening and I appreciate appreciate you. I'll meet you back here next time.

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