Podcast Summary: All Of It with Alison Stewart

Episode: The History of the New York Pickle

Date: April 10, 2026
Host: Alison Stewart (WNYC)
Guests:

• Paul Van Ravestein and Monique Mulder (authors of "The Pickled City: The Story of New York Pickles")
• Alan Kaufman (owner, The Pickle Guys)

Overview

This lively episode explores the deep history, cultural significance, and enduring popularity of the New York pickle. Host Alison Stewart speaks with authors Paul Van Ravestein and Monique Mulder, whose new book chronicles the origins and evolution of pickles in New York City, and with Alan Kaufman, owner of the iconic Pickle Guys shop. Together, they discuss how pickles became entwined with New York’s food identity, delve into the origins of pickling, and welcome listener stories and questions about their own pickling experiences and memories.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Pickle as Culinary Memory and Cultural Symbol

• Monique Mulder opens by describing the pickle's role as a "vessel of memory, a symbol of survival and a story of shared history." (02:40)
  • She elaborates that food connects us to our cultural, social, and demographic histories, making something as humble as a pickle a portal into collective identity and tradition.
  • Notable quote:

    “Food is a beautiful interface to enter history and find identities so related to New York. It’s the identity of New York, actually.” — Monique Mulder (03:20)

2. Visual Storytelling and Documenting Pickle History

• Paul Van Ravestein discusses the extensive visual research behind their book, blending historical photography and narrative to reconstruct the evolution of pickling in New York. (04:01)
  • The book is as much a photo journey as a written one, with archival material from both Amsterdam and early 20th-century New York.

3. The Craft and Art of Pickling

• Alan Kaufman recounts his own journey from photographer to professional pickler, learning his craft from old-timers and considering pickling a form of art. (04:46)
  • He describes the spectrum of pickles—new (fresh, mildly flavored, crisp) versus sour (aged, deeply flavored, still snappy).

4. Why Cucumbers?

• Alan Kaufman explains that cucumbers became the standard “pickle” because they were the most commonly pickled vegetable—much like "Kleenex" for tissues. (06:00)
• Paul Van Ravestein and Monique Mulder discuss the etymology of “pickle” from the Dutch “pekel,” meaning “salty.” (06:24)

5. Global Pickling Traditions & Techniques

• The discussion ranges from ancient Mesopotamian pickling (as early as 2400 BC) to Cleopatra and Caesar’s reputed fondness for pickles. (07:32, 07:56)
• Pickling as a form of food technology is identified as crucial for survival, migration, and adaptation through history. (08:13)
  • Notable quote:

    “It shows us also the resilience of people. Food is a beautiful topic. I mean, people are migrating… So you have to preserve your food in several ways.” — Monique Mulder (08:26)

6. Listener Q&A: Flavors, Memories, and Advice

• Callers share their favorite styles and recount childhood memories of communal pickling or treasured family recipes. Highlights include:
  • The tactile and sensory nostalgia of reaching into a pickle barrel (21:05)
  • The resurgence of DIY pickling and experimentation (16:31, 17:15)
  • The use of pickling to maintain food sovereignty, tradition, and community bonds

Notable Answers:

• Alan Kaufman describes classic New York pickling:
  • “Salt water, pickling spices, garlic, and cucumbers—the amount of time aged determines the flavor.” (10:11)
  • Recommendations for experimental pickling: bourbon, whiskey, hot peppers, horseradish.
• On spicy pickling: “Basically, it’s just vinegar, water, and salt… Try never to use a hot brine, try to use a cold brine and let it cure in a cold climate. You get a more snappier product.” (12:13)

7. Comparing Pickle Traditions Globally

• Monique Mulder describes the diversity of world pickling methods:
  • Soy-based salty pickling in Asia
  • Dill and salt fermentation in Eastern Europe
  • Exotic spices in the Middle East (12:51)
• Paul Van Ravestein explains how climate and culture influenced fermentation and vinegar use from North to South Europe and beyond. (13:42)

8. Pickling and Survival Technology

• Monique Mulder highlights pickling as a survival technology for nomadic peoples and migrants facing winter and climatic hardship. (14:33)
  • This practice is gradually blending and evolving with modern culinary creativity.

9. The Peak of the Pickle Industry in NYC

• In the 1910s–1930s, the Lower East Side was home to as many as 100 pickle businesses.
• The bustling market culture, transition from pushcarts to inside stores, and eventual decline due to health regulations and urban change are described. (19:19, 19:24)
  • Notable quote:

    “There are so many pushcarts, until they were abandoned and had to go inside the Essex Market, for instance, because of this mayor who didn’t like it... It was a bloody mess. But it was a nice, chaotic, dynamic area.” — Paul Van Ravestein (19:24)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

| Time | Speaker | Quote / Moment | |--------|--------------------|-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | 02:23 | Alan Kaufman | "We say smells great, tastes better." | | 02:40 | Monique Mulder | "The pickle is a vessel of memory, a symbol of survival and a story of shared history." | | 05:10 | Alan Kaufman | "What I do is I do whatever I do, and I do it well." | | 10:11 | Alan Kaufman | "Salt water, pickling spices, garlic, and cucumbers—the amount of time aged determines the flavor."| | 12:13 | Alan Kaufman | "Try never to use a hot brine, try to use a cold brine and let it cure in a cold climate. You get a more snappier product."| | 14:33 | Monique Mulder | "It's a sort of survival method... People were much more nomadish... The blend starts. And that was the beauty of our research."| | 19:24 | Paul Van Ravestein | "There are so many pushcarts, until they were abandoned and had to go inside the Essex Market... It was a bloody mess. But it was a nice, chaotic, dynamic area."| | 20:12 | Alan Kaufman | "I kind of just fell into a barrel." (On how he started pickling) | | 23:35 | Alan Kaufman | "Go to the refrigeration section. Don't buy in the middle of the aisles. Don't buy the ones that are sitting there for 12 months." |

Timestamps for Key Segments

• [02:23] - Alan Kaufman on the sensory joy of pickles
• [02:40] - Monique Mulder on food and memory
• [04:01] - Paul Van Ravestein on the photographic history
• [06:00] - Why cucumber became the iconic pickle
• [10:11] - Alan’s classic pickling method
• [12:51] - Comparing pickling traditions in Asia, Europe, and the Middle East
• [14:33] - Pickling as a response to migration and hardship
• [19:24] - The peak and decline of the NYC pickle industry
• [23:35] - Alan’s advice for buying store-bought pickles

Tone & Takeaways

The mood is warm, nostalgic, and spirited, with guests swapping both historical facts and personal stories. The episode weaves together research, lived experience, and excited listener participation, reinforcing the pickle’s unique place in New York’s food culture and memory. The message is clear: pickling is more than preservation—it's an ongoing tradition, a symbol of survival and ingenuity, and a culinary bridge between communities, generations, and continents.

For Those Inspired:

• Experiment with simple old-world brines for a New York-style pickle.
• Remember: the best pickles are made (and shared) fresh, not off a supermarket shelf.
• Embrace the pickle as both a comfort food and an entry point into rich cultural history.