Podcast Summary: "The Long Global History of Tea"

Podcast: All Of It (WNYC)
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Charlene Wang Deshane (Founder of Tranquil Tuesdays, tea writer for Smithsonian magazine)
Date: January 9, 2024

Overview

This episode explores the profound global history and cultural journey of tea—from its roots in Asia, journeys through colonial empires, to its diverse contemporary expressions. Charlene Wang Deshane discusses decolonizing tea, how tea culture evolved across continents, the science and art of preparation, and listener queries and rituals.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Decolonizing Tea and Its Colonial Legacy

[02:59–03:33]

• Charlene Wang Deshane highlights how current tea drinking habits in North America and Europe remain steeped in colonial history and exploitative plantation systems.

  "Tea, in the way that tea is produced and drunk in the west, is very much a product of making these plantations that were built for colonial wealth in European countries." — Charlene Wang Deshane [03:12]

2. Origins and Early Spread of Tea

[03:33–04:16]

• Tea’s birthplace: the regions now known as China, Myanmar, and India.
• First recorded tea use: 3rd-century BCE China; spread to Japan via Zen Buddhist monks in the 12th century.

3. Types of Tea: Science of Processing

[04:16–05:29]

• All teas (green, black, oolong, white) originate from the same plant; differences lie in processing and oxidation.
• Green tea: minimal oxidation (heat applied early).
• Black tea: fully oxidized (results in darker color and flavor).
• White tea: gently withered, minimally oxidized.
• "It's really about how you process it. It's about levels of oxidation." — Charlene Wang Deshane [04:30]

4. Tea as a Status Symbol and Cultural Marker

[05:29–06:12]

• Tea started as medicine in China, evolved into an elite pastime by the 8th century with literary and cultural traditions.
• In 17th–18th-century Europe, tea became a status symbol—the "ultimate flex."
• "[In Europe,] having tea was such a status symbol." — Charlene Wang Deshane [05:57]

5. Matcha and Japanese Tea Rituals

[06:13–08:24]

• Matcha: ground green tea, consumed whole for alertness in meditation.
• Spiritual dimension: Japanese tea ceremonies involve mindful ritual, hospitality, and heightened sensory awareness.
• "It was started... together with the spiritual tradition of Buddhism, and it has that spiritual element." — Charlene Wang Deshane [06:50]

6. Personal Tea Journeys

[08:36–10:11]

• Wang Deshane describes tea as a casual presence in her Chinese-American household but a transformative obsession after tasting fresh, high-quality tea in China.
• "I have no idea what that meeting was about anymore... but I can tell you all about that cup of tea." — Charlene Wang Deshane [09:32]

7. Why Tea Is "Having a Moment"

[10:15–11:34]

• Tea offers sensual awareness and social connection amidst modern digital disconnection.
• Personal rituals grant moments of calm and human interaction.

8. British High Tea and Colonial Entanglements

[11:44–12:55]

• British tea customs are deeply linked to empire, trade, and systems of exploitation, including slavery and forced labor.
• Sugar and tea, twin pillars of British consumption, were co-dependent colonial crops.

9. Tea, Power, and the Opium Wars

[13:07–16:43]

• Tea as a geopolitical commodity: Tea-for-silver trade led Britain to cultivate opium in India and smuggle it into China, culminating in the Opium Wars.
• These wars forcibly opened Chinese ports and led to the birth of large-scale Indian (and later African) tea plantations, often with brutal labor systems.
• "They started kidnapping and forced exploitation of labor in India... very brutal plantation systems." — Charlene Wang Deshane [15:53]

10. Birth of Black Tea as a Colonial Invention

[16:43–18:37]

• Black tea: Not originally part of Chinese tea culture.
• A result of British attempts to replicate oolongs in India; the stronger, more bitter product proved suited for milk and sugar, and a new market was aggressively shaped.

Practical Tea Advice: Upping Your Tea Game

[19:45–24:29]

Charlene’s Five Tips (increasing difficulty):

1. Water Temperature & Steep Time:

   • Don't boil green tea! Use ~175°F; steep briefly to avoid bitterness.
   • "That's what makes your tea taste like burnt bitter astringent." — Charlene Wang Deshane [19:52]

2. Seek Out Whole Leaves:

   • Whole leaf teas offer vastly better flavor than tea dust.

3. Go Loose Leaf:

   • Allow leaves to expand fully for optimal taste.

4. Try Unflavored, Fresh Tea:

   • Flavored teas historically mask lower quality. Try authentic tea to experience actual flavor. The best teas often stay in Asia; exports tend to be lower grades.
   • "Throughout history and up until today, the best teas don't leave Asia." — Charlene Wang Deshane [22:57]

5. Wait for Seasonal, Specific Crop Teas:

   • For true tea aficionados: Hunt for spring harvests from defined regions.

Engaging Listener Questions & Memorable Moments

On Turkish Tea & Rituals

[24:31–25:32]

• A listener recounts learning that true Turkish tea is taken without milk and sugar.

Rooibos and What’s 'Tea'

[25:37–27:35]

• A British expat loves caffeine-free rooibos; Charlene explains it’s technically not tea unless it’s from Camellia sinensis.

Exporting the Best Teas

[27:35–28:27]

• A listener from India says the best Darjeeling is exported. Charlene agrees: "It was set up as a colonial industry that was meant for export." [28:08]

Best Kettle & Gear

[28:27–29:16]

• For hardcore enthusiasts: heat water with gas and use clay or stone vessels. Charlene herself uses a simple electric kettle.

On Sweeteners

[29:26–29:50]

• Asian teas customarily enjoyed unsweetened, but honey is common for herbal infusions.

On Teabags

[30:16–31:01]

• Store-bought tea bags are fine if they “bring you pleasure”; whole leaf is better, but improved teabag technology offers options.

Caffeine in Tea

[31:01–32:51]

• All teas have caffeine; differences depend on cultivar, growing conditions, not type. Herbal tisanes are caffeine-free.

Shelf Life & Storage

[33:05–33:37]

• Best within 6–12 months. Store in the dark, away from moisture.

Ratios and Methods

[33:37–33:54]

• Standard: ~3g of tea per 8oz water; experiment to taste.

Boba/Bubble Tea

[34:20–34:24]

• “A whole other sort of tea culture... a late 20th-century invention.”

Tea as Hospitality

[34:51–35:07]

• Listeners from across the globe (Kenya, Pakistan, etc.) share their tea-anchored cultural and family rituals.

Notable Quotes

• "All tea has caffeine in it. It's in the tea leaf. There's a myth that certain types have less or more caffeine — that's just not true."
  —Charlene Wang Deshane [31:08]

• "If it brings you pleasure, it is acceptable."
  —Charlene Wang Deshane [30:25] (on teabags)

• "Tea is such a huge part of hospitality... offering tea to guests is a huge cornerstone in many cultures throughout the world."
  —Charlene Wang Deshane [35:07]

Timestamps of Important Segments

• The Colonization of Tea: [03:06–03:33]
• Types and Processing: [04:16–05:29]
• Spirituality & Ritual (Matcha): [06:19–08:24]
• Tea’s Economic History—Opium Wars: [13:24–16:43]
• Listener Call: Turkish Tea: [24:31–25:32]
• Rooibos v. Tea: [27:04–27:35]
• Best Practices for Home Brewing: [19:45–24:29]
• Shelf Life and Storage: [33:05–33:37]
• Global Tea Cultures: [34:51–35:07]

Tone and Closing Thoughts

The episode is conversational and warm, blending rigorous historical context with sensory delight and personal anecdotes. It invites listeners to see tea as both a window into global histories and an everyday pleasure—one ripe for mindfulness, connection, and discovery.

Special thanks to Charlene Wang Deshane for demystifying the world of tea and to the many listeners who shared stories from around the world.