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This is all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. A woman recently wrote into the New York Times with a question. I haven't seen my true brown hair in decades, and I'm starting to feel like it's time to embrace my natural gray. Is this a bad idea? More than 1500 people responded to her, including my next guest, New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman. Friedman, in her column Ask Vanessa, she writes, the decision about which way you go depends as much on psychology and emotion as it does on any practical considerations, though many of those are involved. So, listeners, we want to hear from you. How have you navigated the psychological, emotional and practical considerations of going gray or not? Have you let yourself your hair go gray? Are you dying it? What does that decision mean to you? Our phone number is 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. We are now talking to Vanessa Friedman. Hi, Vanessa.
C
Hi, Alison. Great to talk to you.
B
Nice to talk to you as well. So what did you think when you received this question, which read in full, I haven't seen my true brown hair in decades. Am starting to feel like it's time to embrace my natural gray. Is this a bad idea? How does one look less ratty while growing out their natural hair color? What did you think when you got that letter?
C
I mean, the first thing I thought was, wow, I ask myself this question all the time and I, and I feel, you know, torn about it all the time. And, and then the more I started thinking about it, the more I thought, like, this is, it gets into so many complicated, you know, questions we have about our identity, you know, as women, as men, as people in the workforce. And, you know, it has to do with our complicated feelings about aging and what that means because gray hair is for most of us, you know, really a symbol, a vis. Signifier of getting older. And that's a, that's a complicated thing.
B
Yeah. One of the comments in the article read, I have been threatened that not coloring my hair makes me look old. Well, I am old. What is the problem with that? I am in the winter of My life. What do you think of that attitude?
C
You know, I think she's absolutely right. But we live in a culture that is very focused on youth, you know, increasingly focused on youth. You know, if you look at social media, it is full of, you know, women in particular, who seem to have completely erased age from their faces and their hair. You know, whether that is through filters or cosmetic surgery or, you know, or what have you. And so increasingly there seems to be this kind of messaging around age that really it should be, you know, erased. You know, certainly when it comes, we're talking about. It's a very, very gendered message, you know, because classically men are fine getting wrinkled and gray. In fact, they're supposed to. And when we see men like that, we think, oh, there is someone with experience. And while you would think it would only be rational to feel the same way about women, that is not the case. You know, women, because their appearance is associated with fertility, which is associated with youth, are supposed to be perennially young, even when they are clearly in positions that have required decades of experience to get to.
B
Let's take a couple of calls. Let's talk to Diane in Union, New Jersey. Hi, Diane. Thank you for making the time to call all of it.
D
Hi, thank you for talking about this issue. I'm in the arts and sitting in an orchestra pit of a show or something. It's the. It's become important to look young even though the audience actually can't see you unless they peer over or orchestra jobs and stuff like that. It's very youth oriented for women. A fantastic flutist who plays for the Metropolitan Opera was told that she should do something about her hair. I'm having trouble because I want mine to grow out, but events keep coming up to let the gray. Events keep coming up and it's growing in unattractively. And I don't know how to get rid of the. I only use semi permanent dye, but it still is permanent on three quarters of my hair. It seems to be. I don't know how to bleach it out or. I don't want to damage my hair any worse than dyeing does. Yeah, I don't know what to do.
B
Is there a way to let your hair grow gray and to keep it healthy?
C
You know, unfortunately, it's always going to be a painful process. There's really no way around it. As far as I could tell from all the hairdressers I spoke to. I mean, you can cut it all off, you can, you know, hide. It's actually one of the. The one was one of the opportunities that people found during COVID because it did lockdowns, did provide these periods where you were not in the public eye. And a lot of women seized that moment to. To grow their hair to, like, you know, get through that painful kind of str. Period. You can imitate Alyssa Lou and just, like, go with the different stripes. You know, maybe it's a trend that we can all exploit that way. But, you know, in the meantime, there are. There are ways to help. You know, there are. There's something called color. Wow. Which is a kind of powder that you use almost like eyeshadow, and you can paint it on your roots, and that definitely is not permanent, and that can kind of ease the transition. You can go shorter. You can pull your hair back in a ponytail, which kind of changes how dramatic it looks when you have roots and hair, that it's a very different color. And you can go to the salon and submit yourself to the expensive and time consuming process of having your hair colorist help you through is expensive and time consuming. But in the end, maybe you get your money back.
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I'm speaking to the New York Times chief fashion critic, Vanessa Friedman. We're talking about going gray, and we are taking your calls. Have you let your hair go gray? Are you dy. Are you navigating that choice right now? Call or text us at 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. This text says, I love, love, love gray hair on other people and on myself. In fact, I'm kind of disappointed that at 71, I have so little of it. When I started getting some grays in my 30s, the hairdresser used to try to cut it out, and I told her to leave it because I earned every one of them. They are true to me. Talk to Ginny, who's calling us from Bloomfield, New Jersey. Hi, Ginny. Thanks for taking the time to call, all of it.
D
Hi, thanks so much for taking my call. I listen to you every day.
B
Oh, great.
D
Thank you. Here's my story. I ended up working from home during the pandemic, like many people, and so I decided to let my hair go gray. I let it go for about three years, and I kind of liked the way it looked. And then, very unexpectedly, in 2024, I got laid off from my job, and I was past 60, and I had one interview on Zoom. And it was so clear to me that my interviewers, who were women, thought that I was too old to handle this job. That I made the tough decision to go back to dyeing it again because I just felt that I wouldn't get a fair shot if I didn't.
B
Thank you so much for calling in, Ginny. That's a real issue for women.
C
It absolutely is. I mean, Nora Ephron, who was an incredible writer, filmmaker, woman commentator on the State of Women, said that she was convinced that hair dye had essentially extended the working life of women dramatically. Dramatically had been one of the. The most important factors in women becoming powers in the workplace that she knew. And I, you know, I think she's right.
B
I'm sort of interested in the idea of COVID Did our beauty standards change
C
during COVID I think they did, but I also think, you know, one of the points worth making is it's not just your hair color, it's also your hairstyle and the rest of your style that contributes to perceptions of aging. So, you know, I. Some of the comments on that story were from women who said, you know, I keep my hair very long, for example, and so even though it's gray, it kind of conveys a more youthful attitude, or I wear my hair in this kind of funky style that conveys a more youthful attitude. So there are ways to kind of mitigate the perception of gray as necessarily equating to old. You know, I think if you wear your hair in a very classic kind of sculpted, immobile, shoulder length bob, you know, that does date you. So, you know, it's worth thinking about the whole package.
B
Immobile. That is so funny. Let's talk to Cheryl from Lyndhurst. Hi, Cheryl, thanks for calling, all of it.
D
Oh, thank you for taking my call. So I'm 73, and I was a blonde, and then my hair started growing in with the. With the gray and the blonde, and I'd get highlights. And I always got a lot of compliments on it, and I was very happy with the way it looked. And then last year, I was diagnosed with breast cancer. Decided to shave my head before it all fell out. And when it grew back, it grew back in stronger and a lot earlier. But I said, you know what? As much as I like the color, I've been somebody who's always colored within the lines my whole life. And when you have cancer, it kind of changes your outlook on life. So I walked into the hairdresser one day and said, I want to go purple. And that's what I did.
B
Good for you. Let's talk to Ellie in Brooklyn. Hi, Ellie, thanks for calling, all of it. Ellie, are you there?
D
Hi, oh, yeah, yeah, there you are. Yeah. Can you hear me?
B
Yeah, you're on the air.
D
Yeah. So I want to push back on the idea of looking, you know, being, dressing and styling it youthfully and still looking young. I did it in a ripped the mandate off way. I went to my hair colorist, de bleached it, dyed it titanium, and became gray without ever growing roots. And then my natural hair just grew in, and nobody could tell in that way. But I know it made me look older. Same physicality, same everything. I can say that I went from never getting seats on the subway or being offered seats on the subway one day and the next day always being offered seats on the subway. So, you know, that's my unscientific study. But I, I push back on the idea of being able to overcome it by dress, dressing or styling yourself youthfully. It's just a fact. People assume you're older with the gray hair.
B
Thank you for calling in. Yeah. One commenter on the piece wrote, as a teacher, being gray at a younger age seems to give me a sense of authority and wisdom that I really didn't have. It helped me with my students, parents. So how does this speak to some sort of positive cultural associations around gray hair?
C
Well, I think, you know, certainly this is, this is also, interestingly, a problem that, you know, I think falls on, probably unfairly on women rather than men. But often, you know, if you, when you're young, in the workplace, if you look particularly young, people treat you as a less serious individual. Right. They take your thoughts less seriously. They kind of, they look for someone who's more, you know, who's got more authority than you do. And gray hair does convey authority. That's why we think that men with gray hair are, you know, are good, are respectful people. So, you know, it, it works, I think, when you're younger, maybe to your advantage. But, you know, as many Bill have pointed out, I do think, you know, it still is a. There are lots of prejudices associated with gray hair.
B
I'm speaking with the New York Times chief fashion critic Vanessa Friedman. We're talking about going gray, and we're taking your calls. Have you let your hair go gray? Are you dying it? Are you navigating that choice right now? Call or text us at 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. Let's talk to Jeff in Soho who is the owner of a salon. Hi, Jeff.
E
Hi, Alison. How are you?
B
I am doing well.
E
Thanks for taking my. Thanks for taking my call. Yes. I'm the owner of Iron feather down in SoHo, neighbors with WNYC. And I just want to say that through my years in working in the industry and seeing women of all different ages and, you know, career paths and all that, I think there's nothing more confident than a woman who is comfortable embracing her own skin and comfortable with making her own choices. So whether that means she wants to come in for the highlights and get the, you know, the grays covered up every, you know, the four to six weeks, if that makes her happy, then by all means, it's amazing. And the women that embrace their grays, I find that there's nothing more strong or beautiful than that. I think, you know, getting older is a blessing that not everybody is afforded. So the lines, the wrinkles that eventually come, the gray hairs, they're just, you know, a badge of life. And. But do whatever makes you happy and let your hair colorist help you on that journey however you'd like.
B
Thanks so much for calling in, Jeff. Let's talk to Beth in Old Bridge, New Jersey. Hi, Beth. Thanks for calling all of it. You're on the air.
D
Thank you. I love your show and I love this topic. I let my hair go gray during COVID It was one of the best things, if there was anything good about COVID because I was dyeing my hair every three weeks because I had dark brown hair, at least as I remember it. And my neighbor happened to be a hairdresser. And as we were emerging out of COVID I said to him, how do I grow this out? I was done, and he put blondes in it to gradually let it grow out. But I have somewhat curly hair. I keep it shoulder length. I recently found a hairdresser. That's amazing. I love my hair. I get compliments since I've gone gray on the street, in stores all over the place. But I have to say that, and I love it. I'm not changing it. But I have to say that they're from I'm single, that I think men do not look at women the same way. Most men may be my impression at women with gray hair or silver hair, whatever it is. And also I agree with that person who said she's on the subway. I get. I get more invitations to sit down than ever happened in New York, which is lovely, but also disconcerting. I don't love that person exception, but I do love the way I look. I look.
C
Well, thank you for sharing your story. We.
B
We appreciate that. Let's talk about the gender issue here. Men versus women. I'm talking about you, Anderson Cooper.
D
How did.
B
How did men respond to your. The story?
C
The question that was asked, some of them said, told me stories about their wives and their attitudes toward their hair. Some of them talked about whether they found women with gray hair attractive or not. It certainly seemed to be less of a pressing issue for them than it has been for many women. I mean, some talked about dyeing their own hair. You know, but it makes me think about, like, when George Clooney dyed his hair to do Good Night and Good Luck on Broadway, and, you know, he dyed it black, and he got so much pushback for it and got so, like, aggressively mocked for doing the opposite.
B
Yeah, right.
C
For not having his silver fox look. So, you know, many men get. Men have almost the opposite issue where they are mocked if they're seen to care too much about their appearance and care too much about their hair. I mean, one of the really interesting things to me is, you know, in China, it was tradition for a very long time for men in power, particularly men in the government, to dye their hair black.
D
Right.
C
Because it was seen as a sign of virility and strength. And it was a really big thing when President Xi went gray.
B
Let's talk to Kevin, who's calling in from Manhattan. Hey, Kevin, you're on the air.
D
Hey, Allison.
E
I love your show, and you ask amazing questions. So I went prematurely gray at 24. My mom was gray at 18, so I colored my hair from 24 to 52. And at 52, I just started on this health journey where I just started eating a plant based diet and. And eating a diet rich in antioxidants. So I just figured the chemicals would be bad and all that stuff that I'd been putting into my body for the year. So that's why I stopped. And it's been such a positive experience. Like, everyone just says I look better and younger with gray hair than with the. So my natural color was, like, sandy blonde. So I was, like, just coloring my hair the color it had been. But still, people like the gray a lot better. So it's been a positive experience.
B
Thanks so much for calling in, Kevin. This says went gray at 20 and dyed it until 50. Who knew how gorgeous and pure white my real hair color was? It's been so liberating and fun to show the real me in our last minutes. Vanessa, what do you want people to think about if they're deciding, you know, what, I think I'm gonna go gray? What do they need to know?
C
I think they have to think about, you know, how it will make them feel, how they will present in the world. You know, we can get through the hard part, right? Like whatever, six months, a year. It kind of sucks. But, you know, you get what you get at the end. You get where you want to go. The question you have to really ask yourself is, do I want to go there?
B
Vanessa Friedman is the New York Times chief fashion critic. We appreciate you taking the time. Thanks so much for being with us.
C
Great to talk to you.
B
And thanks so much to all of our callers for calling in. Coming up on ALL OF it, you hear a lot about pop culture on this show, but next we're going to talk about people who often intentionally shun it, like Atlantic contributing writer Anna Holmes, who just wrote a piece about her tendency to avoid popular things, even if she ends up liking them a year later. Coming up, she joins us to talk about it. And we want to hear about any shows, music or movies you've evaded over the years. That's next. It's happening after the news.
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This episode dives deep into the complexities—emotional, cultural, and practical—surrounding the decision to go gray or continue dyeing one’s hair. Prompted by a listener’s question to the New York Times, Alison Stewart and guest Vanessa Friedman explore the shifting attitudes toward gray hair, especially as related to women, and open the phone lines for rich, moving personal stories and opinions.
“I ask myself this question all the time and I, and I feel, you know, torn about it all the time.” (02:00, C)
"Men are fine getting wrinkled and gray. In fact, they're supposed to. … Women, because their appearance is associated with fertility, which is associated with youth, are supposed to be perennially young." (03:09–03:51, C)
"I have been threatened that not coloring my hair makes me look old. Well, I am old. What is the problem with that?" (02:37, B sharing listener’s comment)
"Events keep coming up and it's growing in unattractively. I don't know how to get rid of the [dye] ... I don't want to damage my hair any worse than dyeing does." (04:11, D)
“It was so clear to me that my interviewers, who were women, thought that I was too old to handle this job. ... I felt that I wouldn't get a fair shot if I didn't.” (07:28-08:19, D)
“Hair dye had essentially extended the working life of women dramatically. Dramatically had been one of the... most important factors in women becoming powers in the workplace...” (08:25, C)
"It's not just your hair color, it's also your hairstyle and the rest of your style that contributes to perceptions of aging." (08:57, C)
Cheryl’s story: After cancer, went purple for the first time as a rebellion against constraints.
"When you have cancer, it kind of changes your outlook on life. So I walked into the hairdresser one day and said, I want to go purple. And that's what I did." (09:59–10:49, D)
Ellie's experiment: Quickly transitioned to gray using a titanium color—notes instant shifts in public treatment:
“I went from never getting seats on the subway ... to always being offered seats on the subway.” (11:04–12:04, D)
“Gray hair does convey authority. That's why we think that men with gray hair are good, are respectful people.” (12:24, C)
"Men have almost the opposite issue where they are mocked if they're seen to care too much about their appearance and care too much about their hair." (16:59, C)
“We can get through the hard part, right? Like whatever, six months, a year. It kind of sucks. ... The question you have to really ask yourself is, do I want to go there?” (18:39, C)
"Gray hair is a very visible signifier of getting older. And that's a complicated thing."
"I have been threatened that not coloring my hair makes me look old. Well, I am old. What is the problem with that? I am in the winter of my life."
"There's nothing more confident than a woman who is comfortable embracing her own skin and comfortable with making her own choices."
“Getting older is a blessing that not everybody is afforded. … The lines, the wrinkles that eventually come, the gray hairs, they're just, you know, a badge of life.”
| Timestamp | Segment Summary | |-----------|----------------| | 00:39 | Introduction of the show's question about going gray | | 02:00 | Vanessa Friedman discusses emotional and identity struggles with gray hair | | 02:37 | Discussing societal pressure to look young, gendered expectations | | 04:11 | Diane shares the arts industry's youth expectations and her struggles | | 05:17 | Friedman discusses the painful, practical process of going gray | | 07:28 | Ginny’s story: COVID, layoffs, and going back to dyeing for job prospects | | 08:57 | Discussion on how style and presentation, not just color, impact perceived age | | 09:59 | Cheryl’s story: Cancer and embracing purple hair | | 11:04 | Ellie’s story: Transitioning quickly to gray, change in public perception | | 12:24 | Gray hair as a symbol of authority, especially for young professionals | | 13:38 | Jeff, salon owner: Empowerment through embracing or dyeing gray | | 14:41 | Beth: Positive experiences going gray, but men still view women differently | | 16:59 | Discussion: Men’s relationship to gray hair, cultural differences | | 17:36 | Kevin: Health motivations for going gray, positive feedback | | 18:39 | Vanessa Friedman’s summarizing advice: Self-reflection and acceptance |