Podcast Summary

Podcast: All Of It (WNYC)
Episode: What Wine to Serve This Holiday Season
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor at Food & Wine, author of The World in a Wine Glass
Date: December 15, 2023

Episode Overview

This episode dives deep into wine recommendations, trends, and sustainable wine practices just in time for the holidays. Alison Stewart welcomes renowned wine expert Ray Isle to answer both her questions and those from listeners, covering holiday wine choices, the evolving wine industry, and practical wine tips for diverse palates and needs. The discussion is lively, accessible, and filled with actionable advice for everyone from casual drinkers to budding oenophiles.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Ray Isle’s Book and Approach to Wine

• Ray discusses his new book, The World in a Wine Glass—a 700-page guide focusing on artisanal, sustainable, and extraordinary wines.
• The book is structured for browsing rather than linear reading, featuring profiles in the voices of winemakers.
• Emphasis on demystifying wine: “It's not technical... It's really about the people and the places and the wines they make.” (Ray Isle, 03:53)

2. Wine Pricing & Market Trends

• Inflation and post-pandemic reality have caused a dip in wine purchases and influenced pricing.
• Rise in non-alcoholic trends is slightly impacting wine sales.
• Contrary to belief, many great wines remain affordable despite headlines about high wine prices.
• “Some wines are extremely expensive… but there’s a lot of really great wines that are not crazy expensive that haven’t seen huge price increases.” (Ray Isle, 05:36)

3. Challenges Facing Winemakers

• Climate change: Unpredictable weather worldwide is disrupting traditional winegrowing.
• Every region—California (fires), Germany (frosts), and beyond—experiences volatility.
• Quote: “It used to be that we had one or two vintages out of every ten that was unusual or unexpected or strange. And now it’s nine out of every ten.” (Ray Isle quoting Philippe Wittman, 06:27)

4. Mass Market vs. Artisanal Wines

• Mass market wines offer wide availability and consistent taste (e.g., Yellowtail).
• Artisanal wines present a unique sense of place, often with more environmental stewardship.
• “Agriculture should be a give and take between humans and nature and industrial agriculture… is more of a take than a give.” (Ray Isle, 08:48)

5. Listener Questions: Practical Wine Advice

a. Kosher Wines (09:49)

• Many quality kosher wines are now available; not just limited to Manischewitz.
• Recommendations:
  • Capsanus (Spain)
  • Chateau GRE Sac (Bordeaux rosé)
  • Bartinura Prosecco
  • Herzog (US)
• “You can find really top notch wines... at all price points everywhere from $10 or $15 to $100 a bottle.” (Ray Isle, 10:08)

b. Wines for Headache-Prone Individuals (11:52)

• Most wine headaches are due to alcohol, not sulfites.
• If whites are the culprit, try rosé as a lighter alternative.
• “The single worst cause of headaches for people drinking wine is alcohol.... But if you’re specifically getting headaches from whites... try rosé.” (Ray Isle, 12:07)

c. Bordeaux On a Budget (13:13)

• Bordeaux is famous for its history, marketing, and quality.
• Great affordable options exist outside the legendary châteaux.
• Look for “second wines” (e.g., Smith Haut Lafitte’s Le Petit Haut Lafitte, $40 range) or wines like Champs de Tre ($17–18).
• “You can buy really good Bordeaux for quite a bit less than [a typical California Cab].” (Ray Isle, 15:35)

d. Wine Price Differences Explained (15:55)

• Price is driven by land, labor, and especially reputation at higher tiers.
• The best "steals" are high-quality wines from less-hyped regions/producers.
• “It’s a combo platter of land cost and labor cost and reputation...” (Ray Isle, 16:05)

e. Affordable Slightly Sweet Reds (17:44)

• Affordable sweet reds are rare; look for certain blends with a touch of residual sugar (not added).
• Recommendations:
  • Jam Jar Shiraz
  • Apothic Red
  • Barefoot’s various offerings
  • Some sparkling rosés from Italy
• “There are a lot of affordable sweet white wines out there… but there are a few red blends that have a little bit of residual sugar.” (Ray Isle, 18:03)

6. Organic, Biodynamic, and Sustainable Wines (20:47)

• Biodynamic: holistic, ecological approach (roots in Rudolf Steiner), beyond organic, sometimes quirky beliefs but strong focus on ecosystem health.
• Consumers lack labeling clarity; Ray’s book aims to explain terms accessibly.
• “It looks at the farm as a kind of ecological whole... The baseline idea that you farm in a way that everything affects everything else is really cool.” (Ray Isle, 20:47)

7. Ancient and Modern Winemaking Techniques (22:51)

• Clay amphora aging returns: From ancient Georgian tradition, now embraced by modern wineries (e.g., Steve Beckman’s Sauvignon Blanc).
• This method is natural and minimally interventive.
• “The newest thing right now is the oldest thing imaginable.” (Ray Isle, 23:41)

8. Sustainability Innovations (24:11)

• Solar-powered electric tractors (e.g., Monarch, by Carlo Mondavi).
• Shift away from technical manipulation (“low intervention” wine movement).
• Worker rights & empowerment are gaining ground in vineyards.
• Wine’s “non-essential” status allows more experimentation for sustainability.
• “Grape growers for wine have… a little bit of freedom to be a little more pushing the boundaries on, on helping the planet.” (Ray Isle, 26:15)

9. Sparkling and Sweet Red Recommendations for the Holidays (26:45)

• Listener asks for less sweet, better quality Lambrusco.
• Ray suggests:
  • Rosa Regale from Banfi (slightly sweet)
  • Lini (Lini 910) Lambrusco—drier, balanced, good value (28:05)
• “Lini makes really lovely Lambruscos… not mass market… just gorgeous wines.” (Ray Isle, 27:19)

10. Alternatives to Expensive Barolo (28:15)

• Try Langhe Nebbiolo (“Barolo in all but name”), especially Vietti’s Perbacco—same grape, region, and approach at ~half the price.

11. The Perfect Cheese Plate Pairings (29:16)

• For cheese plates:
  • White: Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc), especially with goat cheese; dry Riesling for versatility
  • Red: Lighter reds like Beaujolais or Pinot Noir; port with blue cheese
• “Dry Riesling with any kind of cheese is killer.” (Ray Isle, 29:27)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On mass-market wine:
  "If someone drives up and hands me a cold Budweiser, I don’t care that it’s not a craft beer. I’m going to drink it immediately and be thrilled." (Ray Isle, 08:29)

• On climate impact:
  "It used to be that we had one or two vintages out of every ten that was unusual... now it’s nine out of every ten.” (Ray Isle quoting Philippe Wittman, 06:27)

• On sustainable wine’s role:
  "Grape growers for wine have... a little bit of freedom to be a little more pushing the boundaries on, on helping the planet." (Ray Isle, 26:15)

Key Timestamps

• 02:00 – Introduction to Ray Isle and his book
• 05:36 – Discussion on wine price trends and market factors
• 06:27 – Climate change and winemaking challenges
• 08:48 – Mass-market vs. artisanal, sustainable wine
• 09:49 – Kosher wine recommendations
• 11:52 – Advice for wine drinkers who get headaches
• 13:13 – Why Bordeaux is famous and how to find good, affordable bottles
• 15:55 – The real reasons behind wine price disparities
• 17:44 – Slightly sweet, accessible reds for less sophisticated palates
• 20:47 – What biodynamic wine means and why it matters
• 22:51 – Ancient amphora wine techniques adapted today
• 24:11 – Innovations in making wine more sustainable
• 26:45 – Best Lambrusco and sparkling reds for the holidays
• 28:15 – Barolo alternatives for under $40
• 29:16 – Universal wine pairings for a cheese plate
• 30:22 – Closing remarks

Tone and Takeaways

• Ray Isle keeps advice warm, relatable, and enthusiastic—wine is for everyone, not just connoisseurs.
• Strong focus on sustainability, accessibility, and the pleasure of discovery.
• Encouraging listeners to explore, ask questions, and buy what brings joy, all while sharing approachable, expert recommendations.

This episode is an essential listen (or read!) for anyone hoping to upgrade their holiday table—or their everyday wine drinking—with insight, inspiration, and a sense of community.