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Hands-On Tech 194: Deleting Gmail Messages in Bulk
00:52:06
Monitor vs. TV, Bloated MacBook, Encrypting Partitions
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- [00:00]
Micah Sargent
Coming up on Hands On Tech, we've got some great questions to answer. How to bulk delete email, how to take care of managing and moving passwords from place to place, fixing a freezing computer, and so much more, including a Linux question. What? Yes. All of that coming up on Hands On Tech. This is Twit. Hello and welcome back. Or for your first time to Hands On Tech. This is the show where I, Micah Sargent, take your tech questions and answer them. Wow. Surprise. You don't just ask them, I do try to answer them. You can email me. Hotwit TV is how you get in touch. We've got so many emails pouring in now that I've had to set up an automation to sort of put them in a place where I can go and look at them and they remain separate from the rest of the email that pours in. So thank you to to those of you who are asking wonderful questions. It's been a lot of fun. We're kicking things off this week with a question from Vernon. Vernon writes in and says this. I have over 83,000 Google mail messages that need to be deleted. Is there a fast way to do this? So depending Vernon, on how you had asked this question, if you had said I have over eight, well, if you said I have more than 83,000 mail messages, that would potentially result in a different answer because at that point I wouldn't know where you were getting your email from and would maybe suggest using a third party app to do the management of your email via imap. This is the fastest, easiest way to do it for Google Mail. Depending on how you have discovered the 83,000 emails. Let's just say it's all of the old email that you have in your inbox. You can use Google's built in Gmail interface in your browser to take care of this. And it's actually what I recommend because again, it's the fastest way to do this as opposed to using a third party application that has to talk to the system indirectly or some other means of subscribing to a service that does this. Do it for free right there in your browser. You use the search functionality in the Gmail browser, so. Or rather in the Gmail interface. So up at the top in Gmail where you would normally search for an email, you type the words in in and then a colon and then all a L, L. And what that means is in all of your mail, show me all of the messages. So what that will do is show the entire extent of the email that you have now if you've got 83,000 emails that are old and you've got them all put in a place, maybe your archive, then of course you would want to change this search term to match whatever it is that you're actually trying to select. But at that point you will see in the top left of the interface, the little selection box, you select that button, you click that button to select your email and it's going to select all of the messages on that page. But a little note pops up the top that says select all conversations. So not only does it select the ones that are just on that page, it will let you select every single email in that search that will select the 83,000 plus messages, at which point then you can just hit the trashcan icon. It's going to take a while, quite a while, to delete all of these messages. Then it will take some time. Process, process, process, process, process, and get rid of those messages. That's the quickest way to do it. If you are not trying to get rid of every single email that you have, let's say you have gone through and you've selected 83,000 from the 120,000 emails that you have, right? Then what you need to do is figure out a way to filter down to just those emails. So one way of doing that is again, using some search operators. You can use a search operator that is older, underscore than colon, and then you can put in a, you know, the search term that you'd want after that. So 1y means email emails that are older than one year. I'm for some reason trying to pluralize email with without using an S. Emails that are older than one year would be older underscore than colon, one Y that says look for all of the messages that are that old, I don't need them anymore. Get rid of them, I don't need you anymore. You can do that and also do something like older than one year in archive, right? Because you might have email that are emails that are older than one year that you have stored in special fold or that have specific categories that you don't want to get rid of. Because it's an important email. So you can kind of nail drill down into exactly what you're looking for. You could do something like category colon promotions that will choose all promotional emails. I like this one. This is an issue for a lot of people. There's a search operator for size, so you can say larger colon and then do something like 10 MB, so 10 megabytes. That will let you do that as well. And then you can also say maybe you just want to get rid of all of the emails that have ever come from a specific site. You can do from colon and then the email address and that will let you quickly see all of the emails that have ever come from that person. So figuring out how to filter down to just the emails that you truly want to get rid of is the best way to start. And then after that the secret to making this fast is click that little selection box at the top that says select all on that page and then look for the little text link that says select all conversations that will highlight the rest of them. Then you can delete them and get rid of them. And Vernon, don't leave the page until it is completed. So make sure you stay there and let that process complete. That is better than some of the other recommendations that I've seen, like using a Google Apps script or again using a third party service like you know, Thunderbird or something like that to manage the mail. It it will work, but it's kind of putting a middleman between you and exactly what you want to do. So having this interaction right there in the Google interface is your best bet. So Vernon, let us know how that goes. I am looking forward to hearing that you've reached inbox zero.
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- [09:10]
Micah Sargent
Our next question comes in from Miroslav and Miroslav writes in asking about moving passwords from one place to another, Miroslav says, I have my passwords stored in Apple Password Manager on iPhone. So that is the passwords app at this point. Up to this point it has been sort of an extension of not quite an extension, but an extension of Safari. Now it's its own separate thing. Miroslav goes on to say, I don't have a PC or Mac. I also do own an iPad. 10 Is there a way to export passwords in a form of a CSV or.txt file? A CSV or text file from iPhone and iPad? Miroslav I have some bad news. Believe it or not, still in this the year 2024, nearly 2025, you still can't bulk export your passwords from your iPhone or your iPad. You have to use either a Mac or a PC to export these files as CSV or text files. My guess if you go why is that the case? My guess as to why that's the case is because Apple is a little bit paranoid on behalf of the user. I'm not saying this is a good reason, mind you. This is not an apologist situation. But I see Apple thinking about the potential for a person with an iPhone to get a text message that says your phone has viruses on it and you this is Apple support and we will help you figure this out. Go to this place in your settings, hit this export button, send us this and we can make sure that everything is as it should be, right? And then suddenly somebody out there is exporting all of their passwords very easily to a text file and sending it off to the the the bad actor on the other end. That is my guess as to why it doesn't exist on iPhone and iPad. I don't know that that's the case for sure, but by making it so that you can't bulk export it just makes it a little more difficult to make mistakes like that. The cynics among us would argue that the reason is because it makes it more Difficult for you to switch to a third party password manager. Maybe. Maybe that's why. But in any case, yes, I am afraid to say it is still not possible to export just from an iPhone or an iPad. I even thought, well, surely by now they'd let you do it in the browser. No, they won't let you do it in the browser. So you do have to have a PC or a Mac. At least it works with Windows to be able to export these to CSV or text. Again, that's in bulk. Independently you can move them around. You could move them from an iPhone to an iPad using the share functionality, but the share functionality, but it does not allow you to do that in bulk. Will they eventually add that? I don't know. We know that the the Fido alliance, which is of course responsible for passkeys, has introduced functionality to make passkeys more portable so that you could export those to a different device and a different manager. Will that come with the ability to then export passwords at the same time? Will the EU pay attention to the fact that it's difficult from an iPhone to be able to move password managers? Maybe so Miroslav, that could one day become something that you're able to do, but as it stands, sadly, not possible. All right, before we continue on with these wonderful questions, I want to take a short little moment here to tell you about Club TWIT at TWIT TV Club TWIT. For just $7 a month, you out there can join the club. And it's the perfect time to join the club because I said $7 a month, but you can check it out for a limited time for free. That's right. We've got a two week free trial of Club Twit again at Twit TV ClubTwit. So if you've been thinking about joining and you'd like to give it a go, if you, like me, are from the Show Me state, where you want to be shown what it's going to be like before you actually hop on board. Totally understandable. So make use of that two week free trial TWiT TV Club TWiT. Joining the club gets you lots of great benefits. Every single one of our shows ad free. You also gain access to the Twit bonus feed that has extra stuff you won't find anywhere else behind the scenes. Before the show. After the show, special Club Twit events get published there. Access to the members only Discord Server. A fun place to go to chat with your fellow Club Twit members and also those of us here at Twit access to the video versions of our Club twit shows like iOS Today and Hands On Mac from yours truly, Hands On Windows from Paul Thurat, Home Theater Geeks from Scott Wilkinson, and so much more. For those of you who are members of the club, don't forget you can earn yourselves multiple free months of Club Twit by referring your friends Twit TV clubtwit Referral. So check that out and we look forward to seeing you in the club. Moving along A great question has come in from Charlotte, otherwise known as Frustrated Teacher. Charlotte writes in with the following Charlotte says hello, I was wondering if you might have a solution for using my 2020 MacBook Air with both Zoom and Chrome open. Without it freezing up, it will often start running programs in the background. I see them in activity monitor when I don't want it to, and even when I try to force quit, they keep going. I am a teacher and I'm often in meetings or with students and this has started happening more often recently. I can't really afford a new computer right now, so I was wondering if you might have some suggestions. And then Charlotte goes on to say, I have a MacBook Air 13 inch 20, 20, 1.1 GHz quad core, Intel Core i5 Intel and 16 gigabytes of memory. Charlotte says I have Carbonite that I pause before going on Zoom so that it is not backing up. I also have to run clean my Mac every morning on your recommendation and that helps. But it still happens. I keep everything else closed and my computer restarted. Windows Server Kernel Task and Google Chrome Helper seem to be the biggest culprits, but I don't want them running during the time I am in a meeting or with a student. If you're able to provide some suggestions, I would be most grateful. Thank you. All right Charlotte, so there are a few. There are actually several things we're going to talk about. Let's first and foremost kind of go through what you've mentioned. Honestly, your computer should not be struggling to run Zoom and Chrome with a couple of tabs in it that shouldn't cause a full on freeze up. So that suggests that there might be something else going on before we get to the kind of nuclear options we're going to go through some of the things that you can do first. One thing that I want to recommend is that despite the fact it's a laptop, you may benefit if you're not doing this from keeping the device plugged in. If you are using the device without it being plugged in, then the system is automatically going to run at kind of reduced speeds, reduced processing power to save on that battery. So by using it while it's plugged in, it can use kind of the full extent of what it has to offer. And that can make a difference when it comes to particularly tasks like video tasks. That's the first thing, I'll say. The second thing is you are monitoring activities in Activity Monitor and you're noticing things like Google Chrome Helper, Kernel Task, Windows Server, all of those are supposed to be running regardless of what's going on. Kernel Task, and Windows Server in particular, those are part of the system. That's just the system doing what it needs to do. So you can't not have those running if you want your machine to be running. Google Chrome Helper needs to be running if you're using Google Chrome. So that's part of that system. When you say they're the biggest culprits, you're probably saying that you see that they're taking up the most usage of your processing. Yes, they would be. Particularly Windows Server and Kernel Task, because that's just the system running in the background. Google Chrome Helper. Yeah, that can get pretty bloated. So let's go through some of the things that we can do to help with your issues. If you are using Chrome in a way that you're just accessing your Gmail or you are maybe accessing your school's educational programs, C Give it a test. See if you can use Safari to access whatever it is that you access while you're doing these Zoom calls. Chrome is a huge resource hog. In fact, whenever we do, whenever the engineering team here at TWIT does test calls for people who we're going to have interviews with and they're having issues with things not working as they would expect, we recommend closing many Chrome tabs if not closing Chrome entirely, and not doing any multitasking while they're on the show. Safari is a much lighter weight browser and works very well with the system. And so that's one option. And then you'll notice that in your Activity monitor, Google Chrome Helper is not going to be eating up a lot, if it's even going to show up at all, because Google Chrome isn't running. If you do need to use Chrome, which is sometimes the case, sometimes those online applications, those HTML5 applications are those web apps are only going to work with Google Chrome or only work with Chromium, whatever it happens to be the next Step is to look at your Chrome extensions. Check your Chrome extensions and see if you have a bunch of Chrome extensions that you're not using anymore. And so basically, you're going to audit your Chrome extensions, go through and delete the Chrome extensions that you aren't using, because the browser is loading those into memory each time and doing whatever they need to do. And then if there are extensions that you don't need while you're doing your Zoom calls but you want to keep, you can just toggle those off so it temporarily disables them. So delete the ones you don't need, toggle off the ones that you don't. Rather delete the ones that you'll never use. Toggle off the ones that you don't need during a Zoom call, and that can help. The next step that I would suggest is to head to System Settings, general login items and extensions. In this pane, you'll see down near the bottom a section called Allow in the Background. Allow in the background is the part where different login items run while you're. Well, they're not just login items, but they basically start when the computer starts, but then they continue to run in the background. That's why it's called Allow in the Background. What you want to do is audit that as well. Did you at one point use a system that you don't really need anymore? An app that you don't really need, a service you don't really need, and it's still there running in the background? Is there something there that you don't need while you're on a call for a Zoom, go ahead and toggle that off. If you start to have issues that you didn't expect whenever you're making those calls, though, then you know that you've turned off something in login items that you want to keep on. So I would say don't touch anything in there that has anything to do with Google, and don't touch anything in there that has anything to do with Zoom. But outside of that, you can temporarily toggle off some of the other stuff or completely toggle off ones that you know you aren't using anymore. After that. There's another thing that you can do that helps whenever it comes to your machine's video processing. You can go into System Settings, go to Accessibility, and choose Display. Within this area, you'll see two options. Reduce Motion and Reduce Transparency. If you toggle both of these on, then what it does, it's kind of a negative. It reduces the motion of the system, it reduces the transparency of the system and that's going to make Windows Server not run as powerfully as it would otherwise. So that can be something that, you know, if you don't really need all of the visual effects that you get from the machine, that can help as well. My next suggestion for you, Charlotte, is to check how full your Mac's hard drive is. This isn't something that is an issue for a computer's speeds until you're running up against almost all of the space being taken up. So if you haven't gotten any notifications about it, then you're probably okay. But it is still worth checking if it's nearing capacity. Consider moving some of the files to external storage. You know, if you've got a bunch of homework files or whatever it happens to be and they're taking up the amount of space and you don't really need them anymore, or you don't need to use them, but you want to hold onto them for the sake of having that backup, move them to external storage. You know, getting a couple of external hard drives is much more cost effective than needing to buy an entirely new machine, so you should be able to do that. Consider using something like iCloud Photo Library if you're not, because that will help to move your photos and videos off site to icloud and keep your hard drive from filling up. And some of the other built in features can help that as well, like syncing your desktop and documents folders with icloud Drive, where the system will automatically kind of move off files that you don't use regularly and let you download them when you do need them again. And then head to System Settings General about. Scroll all the way down to the bottom where you'll see a button that says Storage settings. Give this a moment to load. It's going to take a while on your intel machine. You'll probably hear the fans going and then look for the message that says you'll see different features, different file storage mechanisms, and next to them it'll show recommendations for how you deal with it. So if you've ever watched something on the Apple TV app on there and you've still got a bunch of TV shows downloaded, you can get rid of those that way. It will talk to you about moving things to icloud Photo Library. It will tell you these are some big files that you have that you're not making use of anymore, that kind of thing. So that's very helpful to free up storage space on your machine. And then next you are going to want to go to Google to Google, go to Apple support page to learn how to reset NVRAM on your machine. I think depending on what device you have, it could be pram, that's PR A M or nvram. And that will help potentially as well because again, this is where I said I do think that there's something else going on here. There shouldn't be this much, this much delay and this much freezing that's happening on your device. This is kind of, it is atypical of the system. So this should help potentially with those issues as well. We'll include a link in the show notes to this document that tells you how to reset in order to reset the NVRAM or the pram and also to access the kind of diagnostics of the system. Back when I had an intel machine, I would go in and set reset those from time to time and that actually helped quite a bit with multiple issues. So that can help you as well. And then the other thing that I would recommend after you have done that, is to consider reinstalling the system macOS. This is the cool thing, Charlotte. You don't have to completely erase your machine and all of your documents and all of your files and everything that you have in order to reinstall the system. You can reinstall macros, your operating system, and keep all of your documents in place. Do a backup. Always do a backup of your machine and then after that you go into the recovery mode. Surprise, surprise. That page that we're going to link to also tells you how to go into macOS's recovery system and be able to do that Recovery to install macOS. And you can do a fresh install of macOS to see if that takes care of what's going on. Because again, there's no reason why this machine should have issues with just Chrome and just Zoom running. Unless there's a bunch of weirdness going on. I would be remiss if I didn't also mention that you should check for how hot the machine is getting and just be mindful of that. If there's a way to do it, then you can do that. In terms of some suggestions in the chat for improving on the Zoom call, you can make sure you're using Ethernet as opposed to wifi. So if it's just the Zoom call that's freezing, because you do say, let's see, it says, I was wondering if you might have a solution for using my MacBook Air with both Zoom and Chrome open without it freezing up. If you're talking about the system freezing up, that's one thing. If you're talking about the Zoom call freezing up just the zoom call, then yes, this could be an Internet issue, in which case using Ethernet is going to help. Burke, our engineer, says that in Zoom settings you can also use the statistics section to check on resource usage of Zoom and also to look at, you know, your Internet connectivity and make sure that you've got enough for that. So yeah, these are two different issues. If it's your video that's freezing up for your Zoom call, that's one thing. If it's the whole system that's freezing up, that's another thing. And that's where we go through these different steps. So from the top I'll quickly kind of recount what we did here. Consider maybe using Safari, give that a go and see if that helps. If you do need to use Chrome, go ahead and audit your Chrome extensions, although you should do that anyway. Completely remove the ones you never use. Disable the ones that you don't need. While you're doing the calls that you could re enable later. Check your login items and that allow in the background section to toggle off features that you don't need. Go into the Accessibility display settings and turn off reduce motion and reduce transparency to light the load in terms of video. So Windows Server and then go into your Mac's hard drive settings, that storage page to get some recommendations for how to free up hard drive space. If your hard drive is near full, then make sure that you have the computer plugged in as opposed to you're walking around with it. If you can help it, check that the that you're using Ethernet. If you can. For a Zoom call, go into the recovery and consider reinstalling macOS. Check out how to reset NVRAM and see if that helps. There's a lot of different stuff here that you can try depending on your comfort and what you kind of feel might be an issue here with of course kind of the biggest steps, the be all, end all step being to completely reinstall macOS. So I wouldn't do that one until you do those others first. And if those don't fix it, then you move to reinstalling macOS but again back up your machine and if you just reinstall macOS without doing a complete, you know, erase of the system, then your files and stuff will still be there. So Charlotte, please do write in with some follow up to let us know how things go and what ended up working for you. Would love to know how that goes and hopefully we can clear up that frustration that you're experiencing. And thank you for what you do for teaching the youth. All right, our next question comes in from Charles. This one's a long one, so strap in. Charles says, I have a question to shoot your way for Hands on Tech As I have written separately, I dual booted Debian with Cinnamon and Manjaro with KDE Plasma on my Toshiba satellite P55W laptop. I am looking to verify if the installation process encrypted the partitions. Charles used Crypt Setup to identify and check the partitions of the system, and Charles says the command returned silently in both cases when he used that method to check the encryption. Charles goes on to say I already had to report one responder for poor behavior when I posted my question in R Linux for noobs when the person and in parentheses says I will take the high road by leaving out his or her name started with quote Read the fine manual rtfm what does crypt setup tell you about is lux? How do you tell if a command return true or not? Hints? Read some introductory shell material. I reported the person to the moderators. No one wins in a flame war. That being said, the person does raise a good point. I am a big fan of rtfm, so where is some good intro shell material on Bash? My follow and then I got a separate email from Charles who says my follow on question should have been my leading question. I realize now that I should have started out with setting up full disk encryption on my Linux partitions. I had to disable Secure Boot in order to install Manjaro, so it looks like I still need to take extra steps to enable fde. That's full disk encryption, which is something I did not realize until now. Currently my Linux partitions are Debian version 12.8 with Cinnamon version 5. 68. 1 and Manjar version 24. 1.2 with KDE Plasma version 6. 1.5. The Toshiba Satellite P55W C started out as a Windows 10 machine for by Intel Core i7 6500 CPU at 2.50 GHz with 11.5 gigs of RAM and Mesa Intel HD Graphics 520 graphics processor. And then Charles shares the partitions that he's got going and says I'm trying to figure out the best way to set up fde. It sounds like I should use Linux Unified key setup version Lux 2. I still need to get some extra external drives. Probably 2.1terabyte USB drives should work So I can use timeshift to create backup images for the Debian and Manjaro partition. After I create the images, how would I set up fde? And then Charles goes on to include some links to various documentation and says, once I create the Debian and Manjaro images, how do I set up fde? So for people who tune in live and hang out in the discord, I include I or John sends the show notes, the questions that are asked with kind of my responses beneath them. In this I said Micah has a lot of notes. Slash a long response for this one so it won't be included here. And yes, that is the case first and foremost for you, Charles, I want to say that you the thing that you need to know mainly is that not only am I suggesting this, but everything that I've read and researched suggested this as well. Don't do full disk encryption after the fact. It's a very complicated process that's rather risky and can cause some issues. So you want to back up your stuff to those external drives that you talked about getting and then during installation do full disk encryption. So start there, complete the backup process with timeshift, and then backup all that personal data separately from the system backups. Perform a fresh installation of both Debian and Manjaro with encryption enabled. During installation, restore the configuration files and data. After that, during the Debian installation, choose guided Use entire disk and set up encrypted lvm. And then for Manjaro, use the Install encryption option when you partition. That way you're going to get lux to encryption. It will configure the boot process correctly and it will ensure all partitions, including the swap, are properly encrypted, which will minimize the risk of an unbootable system and more importantly, will make things easier and simpler for you, while also making sure that you don't suffer from data loss. That's kind of the big things is that you don't want to run into issues with losing your data. Regarding that first email where you asked the question of did you do things correctly? Everything that you said suggests that yes, you did. Indeed. A silent response from crypt setup means a silent response from crypt setups is lux command. Luks command means that you, you have successfully encrypted those drives. It's only going to tell you if they're not encrypted. So you did well. But let's talk about then the areas where you can kind of learn a little bit more about bash, because you did ask about that as well. So you said that you you're a big fan of rtfm. So what is some good intro shell material on Bash? The GNU BASH manual of course. Just typing in man space Bash is a great way great place to start. If you head to tldp.org you can check out the Bash guide there. I'm going to butcher this person's name but Machelt Garels sorry that's M A C H T E L T and then Geralt's or Gerald's G A R R E L s last name has the Bash Guide for beginners and then I know a very popular option is the freely available Linux Command line by William Schatz. So check those out for learning about Bash and working on the command line there. Ultimately you've done a good job of being mindful of how you're installing this system. Very demure. You are working in a way that is going to protect your data and give you the expectations that you have there while also giving you the encryption that you want by completely doing a fresh install. So Charles, you nailed it in your follow on question to ask, you know, or to start by saying, oh, I realized that I kind of should have done that. Yeah, that is exactly what you should do. So wishing you the best of luck with your Debian and Manjaro installations with full disk encryption and doing it from the jump. Hopefully you'll get those external drives, you'll be able to move your files there and go through the process of full disk encryption for both Debian and Manjaro.
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Micah Sargent
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Micah Sargent
All right, we've got one more question here today and this is another fun one, this time from Mark. Mark writes in and says, I currently use a Samsung Ultra wide 34 inch curved monitor for my work. I am considering using a 55 inch QLED TV as a monitor to allow many windows to be open at the same time. The vast majority of my work is text based and the screen would be about 3 to 4ft in front of me. Across my desk. I'm thinking QLED as opposed to OLED due to the fact that QLED is slightly less expensive and less susceptible to burn in. I'm running a Windows 11 Lenovo Yoga 7i laptop with USB C and HDMI outputs. I'd like to know your thoughts on this setup. TV versus monitor, QLED versus oled, et cetera. All right, so we're going to go through this kind of piece by piece. First by talking about the advantages of using a television instead of a monitor and the disadvantages of using a television instead of a monitor. Back in college I thought I was being very clever. I for my home office had ordered a television because I'm like, at the time I wasn't super hip to the realization of what was going on here, but I was like, I can get a TV that's much bigger for the same price or even, you know, for, for less than I would for a monitor that's much smaller. I'm going to use a tv. Well then I, I learned. So the advantages of using a tv, it's a much larger screen real estate for those multiple windows that you're talking about, you got a lot more to work with, especially with that 55 inch you said you were going to go for. Generally less expensive per inch than monitors, but there's a reason for that which we'll talk about. Moment good for occasional media consumption. So if you want to, you can switch it over to a set top box you have attached or just the included smart system that's probably built into it to watch Netflix and Hulu and whatever else you might want to. And then of course yes, it does have those other smart features. And more importantly for a lot of people, they like that it has built in speakers that you don't have to use an external speaker system. The, the audio files out there are screaming People like that. Yes, people like that. It's convenient that they can just use the built in speakers. Here are the disadvantages of a tv. You often are going to experience higher input lag compared to a monitor. So as you're Moving your cursor across the screen, it's not going to feel as buttery smooth. In many cases, text clarity will likely be worse due to the different sub pixel arrangements that you have when it comes to a TV monitor versus a computer. Computer monitor ergonomics are particularly challenging because most TVs don't come with a height adjustment built in. And because you're only going to be three to four feet away, it may cause eye strain due to the size of the television and due to the brightness of the television. So those are some things to think about in using a TV over a monitor. Now let's talk about QLED pros and cons. So when it comes to qled, you get a higher brightness, which is a con in terms of eye strain. But if you're working in a room that has a lot of light in it, higher brightness is better because you can see the screen better. You don't have that burn in risk, which is important. Yes, for you with text kind of being in certain places on the screen for a long time. Again, QLED generally less expensive than oled and QLED typically has a longer lifespan than OLED does. Here are the QLED cons. You get a lower contrast ratio than oled. That means that the blacks are not as black, the whites are not as white in comparison to the rest of it. So everything is just a little bit closer in range than you would get with an OLED tv. Less uniform blacks in general. So what that means is as you look on the screen, in the middle of a portion of the screen that might be displaying black, that's going to be a dark black. But if it's right, then as you kind of come out from that, let's say you're looking at a photo of somebody wearing a black shirt and behind them is a snowy background. As the shirt gets closer to the snowy background, more of that light is going to leak into the black portion of the shirt. So that black is not going to be uniform across the entirety of the photo as much as it would be with oled. And then with qled, viewing angles are not as good as oled. So that's something else to consider as well. But let's talk about Mark, your specific concerns here. You say that you do mostly text based stuff and that already has me saying don't get a television at 55 inches. So if I run these calculations, if I ran these calculations correctly at 55 inches, 4K resolution is going to give you about 80 points per inch, pixels per inch at your Viewing distance. So I think you said, what was it, 3 to 4ft away from the television. You're working with 80ppi. But your ultra wide currently likely has around 110ppi. As that ultra wide 34 inch curved monitor you have 110ppi, you'd be dropping it down to 80ppi. Working with text, you're going to notice that it's less sharp than you're used to. The interfaces are going to be less sharp than you're used to. Everything is going to be less sharp than you're used to at that, that distance. Then we move on to ergonomics. 55 inches at 3 to 4ft is going to require frequent head movement. You're moving around looking at these parts of the screen versus if the monitor is smaller and it's farther away from you, it's just your eyes that need to move. You could to improve upon this, consider a mounting solution that allows for height adjustment. So even though the TV may not, well will not come with a height adjustment option, you can use the VESA mount that's very likely on the back of the system and get a height adjustable solution. And then blue light and brightness management are going to be something that you need to pay close attention to. So monitors that are for computer use are more likely to be mindful of those things than a television that is supposed to be at a distance that is further away from you and doesn't need to worry so much about eye strain versus looking closely at tiny text on the screen. Let's talk about now your technical setup specifically. So you have a yoga 7i that obviously has no issues handling 4k output. If you use the USB C, you're probably going to get a better refresh rate. You know, double check this between USB C and HDMI that's built into the machine. But it's likely that the USB C is going to give you a better refresh rate than you would have. And of course then that's that kind of single cable solution. And you will need to play around with the scaling settings on your Windows 11 machine. I think that is one big aspect of this is Windows 11 management. Sort of display management might require some changes so that way you can get the text to a comfortable size. So let's talk about because as you can probably tell Mark, I am suggesting that you don't go for the monitor or for the television. Let's talk about what to do instead. If you really, really, really want to get a TV or you really, really, really just Want to increase the size of the screen that you have and you'd be willing to splurge for a monitor. Consider a 43 inch 4K TV. Remember that you have the. What was it, 33, 34 inch. Try a 43 inch 4K TV or monitor. If it's a TV, you're going to get better pixel density for the text. Same thing. Better pixel density versus the 55 inch 4k TV. And same goes for the monitor. Better pixel density there. It's more manageable a size when it's sitting on your desk versus that huge 55 inch and it's still quite a bit larger than what you currently have. So that's quite an upgrade. Without needing to go into the range of things not being as satisfying as you would expect. If you are really trying to get something that's going to work and provide everything that you want, consider professional large format monitors. Dell has some large format monitors that are built for desktop use, that have an adjustable stand, that have better text optimization, which is really important. And then might I suggest something else? If you're not a. If you're not a sort of. If you don't need things to be exactly, precisely the same. Some people are like, I can't have dual monitors because if they're not the same monitor, then it doesn't work for me. It doesn't look good. Yada yada yada. Totally understandable. I shouldn't say yada yada yada, that's dismissive. Et cetera, et cetera. Consider adding a second display to that ultra wide monitor option that you already have a. That's going to be a much more flexible arrangement. So you could put the new monitor above the ultra wide monitor, you could put it to the side of the ultra wide monitor below wherever you wanted to. Excuse me. And then it's probably going to be better for the ergonomic considerations there versus trying to have this huge 55 inch TV that you're having to move your head around to see everything that you have now. Mark, if after all of this hard work that I've done for you, all this research that I've done for you, does not get through to you and you decide to go with the 55 inch TV anyway, try to choose a model that has a PC mode or some sort of low input lag mode, something that's going to increase the refresh rate on the tv, look for that. Get a really good mounting solution for that 55 inch TV so that you can move it around as you need to raise it, lower it wherever it needs to be. Plan your desk depth carefully. Try to have it farther back so that you aren't so close to it that you need to move your head around. Consider getting some bias lighting to help with the eye strain that you will experience with a bright oh I almost did a curse. A very bright television. And then when you're looking at the options, I would try to find the reviews to see if anyone's talked about using it as a monitor and if they talked about how clear text shows up on it, that can inform your choice on which one to get. So we'll do a little brief recap here. We talked about the advantages and disadvantages of using a TV QLED pros and cons how you know the QLED is brighter. You don't have that burn in risk, but you do have lower contrast ratio in the view. Viewing angles aren't as good. Concerns about text clarity for 55 inches, especially with the ultra wide where you're going to be used to a higher PPI than you have higher resolution. The ergonomic concerns of course as far as technical setup goes, you're good to go there. Your yoga should be fine to handle that 4K output with some minuscule changes in Windows 11. And then of course my suggestions of getting a 43 inch 4K TV or monitor instead or looking at the professional large format monitors. Dell is one company that offers some large format monitors or just go for a dual monitor setup which I think is going to be really great for you versus going with that 55 inch TV. Mark, thank you for that question. I had a lot of fun with that one and as always, please let me know what you end up going with. I'd love to hear about it. So this is the part of the show where I remind you send in your questions. Hotwit TV is how you get in touch and I look forward to hearing from you as we continue on. That will bring us to the end of this episode of Hands On Tech. If you are looking for my other shows you can find you can check out during the week, iOS today, hands on Mac and of course Tech News Weekly. You can follow me online ikasargent or to Chihuahua Coffee Chi H ua H ua Coffee where I've got links to the places I'm most active online. Be sure to check out Club Twit and that two week free trial if you've yet to join. And if you have joined, get some months for free by referring your friends. Until next time I say goodbye to all of you and thank you for tuning in and thank you for your questions. Happy Holidays.
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