Podcast Summary

Podcast: Articles of Interest
Episode Title: Gear: Chapter 2
Host: Avery Trufelman
Date: October 29, 2025

Overview

This episode explores the evolution of outdoor gear and its intersection with military uniform design, focusing on the pivotal 20th-century shift from individual, informal approaches to dressing for the outdoors (and for war) to scientifically tested, mass-produced systems. The narrative traces developments from the early days of Abercrombie & Fitch and the broadening accessibility of the American outdoors, through to the high-stakes wartime debate over the U.S. Army's iconic M1943 field jacket. Key themes include the tension between style and function, the influence of scientific research on clothing, and the enduring legacy of military gear on civilian outdoor equipment.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Roots of Outdoor Gear in American Culture

• Early Outdoor Pursuits as Elite, Masculine Pursuits

  • Outdoor activities were once reserved for rugged, elite American men, with shopping for gear seen as cheating. (00:19)
  • Many secretly bought outdoor clothes, primarily buckskin suits made by Native American women. (Rachel Gross, 01:05)
    • Quote: “They often turned to Native American women who were the recognized experts at sewing buckskin suits.” — Rachel Gross, 01:05

• Abercrombie & Fitch Mass-Market Breakthrough

  • Abercrombie & Fitch (A&F) opened in 1892, reframing shopping for gear as a sign of expertise, not amateurism.
  • Their stores cultivated a masculine, exclusive vibe with expert salesmen. (02:14)

• Democratization of Outdoor Recreation

  • Automobiles and national park expansion (spurred by President Theodore Roosevelt) opened nature to the middle class, making “nature” a destination rather than part of daily American life. (04:18–05:47)

2. Outdoor Gear Goes High-Tech — and Borrowed from Indigenous Styles

• Brand Innovation and Faux-Indigenous Aesthetics

  • Eddie Bauer, L.L. Bean and others launched with a focus on hunting and high-tech gear, yet referenced moccasins and Native aesthetics. (08:01)
  • The Lustberg Nast & Co. “Buckskane” jacket (cotton or wool with DuPont waterproof coating) echoed buckskin in name but was made with modern materials. (09:27, 10:03)
    • Quote: “The Buckskane jacket was made of cotton or wool assembled in a factory and notably covered with a new waterproof coating.” — Avery Trufelman, 09:43

• Rise of Scientific Testing

  • Early collaborations heralded a future where outdoor/military gear would tout technical ingredients, like DuPont coatings — a trend that continues today. (10:34)

3. World War Uniforms: From Wool to Science

• Military’s Clothing Challenge

  • At the start of WWII, the U.S. relied on heavy wool overcoats ill-suited for global operations. (16:34)
  • General J.K. Parsons tried redesigning with off-the-rack golf jackets (the “Parsons jacket”), but this led to chaos of multiple, special-purpose jackets. (19:35)
    • Quote: “It's a members only jacket. It's what Polly Walnuts would use to take someone out in the Sopranos.” — Joshua Kerner, 20:08

• George Doriot’s Intervention: The Scientific Revolution

  • French-American business professor George Doriot became Quartermaster Corps’ chief and reimagined uniform design using extensive scientific testing, industry consultation, and laboratory experiments. (18:09, 21:42)
  • Layering principle discovered: lighter, multiple layers are better than single heavy layers. (26:42)
    • Quote: “The laboratories had shown that wearing lots of lighter layers was going to keep soldiers warmer than wearing a smaller set of much heavier layers.” — Rachel Gross, 26:42

• Use of Dummies ("Chauncey," the Copper Man)

  • Doriot’s team used heated mannequins to obtain objective clothing data, a precursor to modern gear testing. (25:23)

4. The M1943 Jacket Controversy: Science vs. Tradition

• Science Triumphs — But Not Without Struggle

  • The M1943 (M43) field jacket, result of scientific testing, was modular and allowed layering—both revolutionary. (28:19)
  • Massive field test in Italy revealed high soldier satisfaction. Practical pockets and comfort were key. (29:06)
    • Quote (Soldier Feedback): “This uniform makes us feel like soldiers. The old one didn't.” — Anzio test report, paraphrased at 29:23

• Resistance from General Littlejohn

  • Major General Robert McGowan Littlejohn (Quartermaster General, European Theater) detested the “unmilitary” look of the M43, preferring stiff, tailored styles (ETO/Ike jackets) inspired by the British. (35:11–37:28)
    • Quote: “He really thought that the aim of a uniform should be to look crisp and soldierly.” — Charles McFarlane, 36:12
  • Littlejohn obstructed M43 distribution—leading to the cold weather crisis. Soldiers froze, suffered frostbite, and the scandal hit the press. (42:21–44:16)
    • Quote: “Men are losing toes, skin is coming off with the sock. And when you look at the rates of trench foot, frostbite... all of these things are being recorded at a much higher level in the units in Little John's perfviews.” — Charles McFarlane, 43:03

• Aftermath and Legacy

  • Littlejohn ultimately faced no official consequences, thanks to Eisenhower’s protection. (44:53)
    • Quote: “What happens is Eisenhower... puts a press freeze on any stories dealing with the cold weather uniform crisis... He ran policy interference for a friend.” — Joshua Kerner, 44:53
  • Doriot moved on but left a legacy: scientific, soldier-oriented gear design triumphed, especially the layering system. (46:37)

5. Long-term Impact: Military Science and Civilian Gear

• From Soldiers to Civilians

  • Outdoor companies (REI, L.L. Bean, etc.) adopted military-tested designs, often selling literal surplus M43s and other gear postwar. (47:21–48:01; 55:33)
    • Quote: “As early as 1944, REI offered army steel frame packs... and army over mitts. So we actually sold those in the store.” — Scott Mosier, 55:33

• Ongoing Material Innovation and Testing

  • Modern military and civilian outdoor gear continue rigorous lab testing: mannequins (now much more advanced than “Chauncey” — e.g., “Andy the Dynamic Thermal Mannequin”) simulate sweat, temperature, and field conditions. (50:06)

    • Quote: “You can dress him [the mannequin]. It’s in his closet… this is fun!” — Avery Trufelman & Maddy Polyboggan, 51:24

  • Software tools help predict optimal layering for various environments and missions, preventing cold-weather disasters. (51:46)

• Fashion & Function Blur

  • Despite outdoor brands’ claims that “fashion is none of our business,” the crossover of function, expertise, and style is constant. (34:23, 54:07)

    • Quote: “We look at all the Runway shows… fashion is none of our business, get out of here.” — Scott Mosier & Avery Trufelman, 54:07

  • Testing, certification, and a “lab-tested” aura have become the ultimate mark of outdoor quality—replacing the earlier, salesman-driven model of expertise. (55:00)

Notable Quotes & Moments

• On the taboo of shopping for outdoor gear:

  • “Don't buy anything. If you do, you're essentially showing yourself to be a beginner.” — Rachel Gross, 00:35

• On Abercrombie & Fitch’s unique retail experience:

  • “They created an environment that looked like a gentleman’s clubhouse.” — Avery Trufelman, 01:52

• On the impact of Doriot’s approach:

  • “This was the sartorial embodiment of a democratic army. It is designing in the name of pure science, pure pragmatism.” — Avery Trufelman, 30:21

• On the cold weather crisis consequences:

  • “Men are losing toes, skin is coming off with the sock...” — Charles McFarlane, 43:03

• On the enduring legacy of the M43:

  • “You can still see it as a template on jackets all around you.” — Avery Trufelman, 48:01

• On testing as new expertise:

  • “Testing, testing, testing, opinion testing, field testing, lab testing. This has become the guiding principle in gear.” — Avery Trufelman, 48:39

Timestamps for Major Segments

• 00:00–01:36 – Setting: Taboo of buying outdoor gear & Abercrombie & Fitch’s role
• 03:24–06:56 – Outdoors as elite leisure; national parks, and the “consumer of nature”
• 08:01–10:34 – Early outdoor brands & technofetishism; the “Buckskane” jacket
• 16:34–19:08 – Military uniform woes: Wool, Parsons jacket
• 21:17–26:42 – Doriot and layering breakthrough; copper “Chauncey” dummy
• 29:06–32:09 – Field jacket testing & the Littlejohn feud
• 34:23–37:58 – Fashion vs. function in uniform design (Littlejohn’s perspective)
• 42:21–45:13 – The cold weather crisis, press coverage, political fallout
• 46:37–47:14 – Doriot’s ideology wins; M43’s influence into Korea, Vietnam, and beyond
• 50:06–52:40 – Modern mannequin testing, software, the military’s “closet” simulator
• 54:07–55:00 – Civilian gear companies & fashion consciousness, REI’s lab culture
• 55:33–55:56 – Outdoor companies selling military surplus
• Throughout – Recurring discussion of how scientific testing became the essence of “gear”

Conclusion

This episode powerfully illustrates how American outdoor gear — both civilian and military — was shaped by a push-and-pull between tradition and innovation, fueled by the democratization of outdoor activity, technological progress, and the practical, lived experience of soldiers. The legacy of these developments persists: technical, rigorously tested clothing became coveted by everyone from hikers to fashionistas, all traceable to the lessons (hard won and sometimes tragically delayed) of scientifically derived military uniforms and the battles, literal and figurative, over how we dress to face nature.

For further images and details, visit: articlesofinterest.substack.com