Podcast Summary: Articles of Interest – Episode "Wearing Hair"
Host: Avery Trufelman
Release Date: October 11, 2023
Description: Articles of Interest explores the intricacies of what we wear, delving into materials, trends, and the cultural significance of clothing.
1. Introduction to the Concept of Wearing Hair
The episode begins with Margot Boyer Dry introducing a controversial idea she encountered: creating garments from human hair. Initially skeptical, Margot questions the social viability of such innovations.
- Margot Boyer Dry [00:01]: “I was like, come on, you know why? Because it's gross. Who's gonna buy a sweater made out of human hair? It's just not socially viable.”
Her unnamed colleague acknowledges the unusual nature of Margot’s writing topics, highlighting her reputable contributions to major publications.
- Unnamed Colleague [00:25]: “That is the kind of thing you would write about.”
2. Human Material Loop: A Sustainable Approach
Margot introduces Human Material Loop, a Dutch company founded by Sophia Kohler, which repurposes human hair into textiles. The company argues that utilizing human hair addresses environmental concerns by reducing waste and avoiding animal farming.
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Margot Boyer Dry [01:04]: “Their argument is that humans are responsible for the climate crisis. We are responsible for the solution.”
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Sophia Kohler [01:43]: “We don't need to degrade any soil. We don't pollute any water. We don't use any toxic chemicals to process hair. It's a natural material.”
Sophia emphasizes the environmental benefits, such as minimizing transport emissions by using locally available materials.
- Sophia Kohler [01:50]: “We use locally available materials, so we also cut off an enormous transport emissions from the entire supply chain.”
Margot expresses fascination with public reactions to these human hair products, noting the initial disgust that gradually gives way to curiosity and acceptance.
- Sophia Kohler [02:27]: “There are People like, yeah, hell, yeah. Shave my hair right now. It's all yours. Take it, baby.”
3. Societal Attitudes Toward Hair and Its Uses
The conversation shifts to societal perceptions of hair, contrasting its beauty on the head with the disgust felt when found in drains or used in unconventional jewelry.
- Margot Boyer Dry [07:36]: “We use it on purpose to attract people. You know, we get it done, we get it braided, it's a sign of vitality.”
Emma Tarlow, an anthropologist, provides insight into the cultural and psychological aspects of using human hair in textiles.
- Emma Tarlow [08:10]: “There's an aspect of fear of reducing humans to a textile form. So we're all right about doing that with sheep's wool. We're actually much more ambiguous about doing that with, say, cat hair or dog hair.”
4. Historical Perspectives: Hair as Relics and Mourning Jewelry
Margot discusses historical uses of human hair, particularly in mourning jewelry during the Victorian era. Deborah Lutz, a professor of Victorian literature, elaborates on how hair was used to symbolize mourning and personal connections.
- Deborah Lutz [10:36]: “There are tons of American examples, and there are tons of British examples and French and German.”
Hair relics served as personal mementos, often intricately woven into jewelry to honor loved ones.
- Deborah Lutz [11:02]: “There are these sort of basket weaves and just really strange shapes that could be worn either as proof that you were mourning or grieving for the person who had died.”
5. Designer Alix Bizet: Modern Applications of Human Hair in Fashion
Alix Bizet, a UK-based designer, is featured for her innovative use of diverse human hair textures in fashion. She aims to challenge the hierarchical valuation of different hair types by incorporating Afro, straight, and various textured hairs into her designs.
- Alix Bizet [19:13]: “We have all this kind of talk about what makes Afro hair special, linked black culture. But in fact, Afro hair is hair.”
Alix emphasizes transparency in sourcing hair and respects cultural significance, ensuring that each piece honors the individual contributors.
- Alix Bizet [20:29]: “I think about how do I actually bring the identity of those people, of those different cultures, next to each other, creating this kind of garment of a neighborhood like London or Peckham.”
6. Ethical Considerations and Comparisons to the Wool Industry
The discussion draws parallels between human hair textiles and traditional wool production. Margot and her colleagues explore ethical concerns, labor practices, and the environmental impact of both industries.
They recount a visit to the Queens County Farm Museum, observing humane sheep shearing practices that starkly contrast with the often inhumane conditions of industrial wool farms.
- Margot Boyer Dry [27:22]: “So shearing is important for the sheep's health and well-being. If a sheep is not shorn for several seasons, that sheep will overheat, suffer from skin conditions and mobility issues.”
The group critiques the global wool industry's ethical shortcomings and highlights sustainable practices as exemplified by the museum's approach.
7. Decline of the Wool Industry and Modern Challenges
The conversation delves into the historical decline of the wool industry in the United States, attributing it to economic shifts, overcompetition from synthetic fibers, and cultural changes.
- Unnamed Colleague [33:01]: “We became cow country and cotton country.”
They discuss how myths about wool's discomfort deter modern consumers and the competition from petrochemical-based materials like polyester and nylon.
- Unnamed Participant [35:02]: “You couldn't wash wool, but now you can.”
8. Future Prospects: Embracing Sustainable and Ethical Textiles
Margot and her team contemplate the potential for human hair textiles to offer a sustainable alternative to traditional materials. They recognize the challenges in scaling such innovations ethically but remain optimistic about consumer-driven changes.
- Unnamed Colleague [37:31]: “Although, of course, it's not entirely about a consumer movement. I mean, that helps, but ultimately the products that are available to us are at the hands of so many larger forces...”
They advocate for individual responsibility in making ethical choices, suggesting starting with conscientious consumption and supporting sustainable brands.
9. Conclusion: Reflecting on Material Use and Human Integrity
The episode concludes with a reflection on the deeper implications of using human hair in textiles. Margot emphasizes the importance of considering our values and the ethical dimensions of material consumption.
- Margot Boyer Dry [38:20]: “My main understanding from this research is that people are really afraid of being reduced. Like, if it feels so bad to us to be used in a way that degrades our integrity.”
The hosts encourage listeners to rethink their relationship with materials and to make informed, ethical choices in their wardrobe selections.
Notable Quotes:
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Margot Boyer Dry [00:01]: “I was like, come on, you know why? Because it's gross. Who's gonna buy a sweater made out of human hair? It's just not socially viable.”
-
Sophia Kohler [01:43]: “We don't need to degrade any soil. We don't pollute any water. We don't use any toxic chemicals to process hair. It's a natural material.”
-
Deborah Lutz [11:02]: “There are these sort of basket weaves and just really strange shapes that could be worn either as proof that you were mourning or grieving for the person who had died.”
-
Alix Bizet [20:29]: “I think about how do I actually bring the identity of those people, of those different cultures, next to each other, creating this kind of garment of a neighborhood like London or Peckham.”
-
Margot Boyer Dry [38:20]: “My main understanding from this research is that people are really afraid of being reduced. Like, if it feels so bad to us to be used in a way that degrades our integrity.”
Additional Resources:
- Margot Boyer Dry's Newsletter: Lorem Ipsum
- Human Material Loop Website: humanmaterialloop.com
- Designer Alix Bizet's Portfolio: alixbizet.com
- Queens County Farm Museum: queensfarm.org
- Wool Education Resource: thewoolchannel.com
This episode of Articles of Interest offers a provocative exploration of unconventional materials in fashion, urging listeners to consider the ethical and cultural dimensions of what we wear. By juxtaposing historical practices with modern innovations, the hosts illuminate the complex interplay between material use, sustainability, and human values.