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ASCP Esty Talk
Ep 294 – The Skin Benefits of Adaptogens: A Professional Perspective for Skin Care Practitioners
00:18:10
Adaptogens are gaining popularity for their powerful ability to help the body adapt to stress, but did you know they can also benefit your skin? In this episode of ASCP Esty Talk, Ella and Maggie discuss the skin benefits of adaptogens, exploring how...
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- [00:00]
A
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- [01:38]
B
Hello and welcome back to ASCP esteetalk. I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, international educator and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.
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C
I am Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's program director.
- [01:53]
B
I All right, I'm recalling something. I made a prediction in 2018 and I have to tell you where I was at the time. I was like in the CBD space and seeing the progression of cbd, but also seeing really what it did. Cannabinoids, fell in love with terpenes. I'm still in love with terpenes. I love them so much, especially for the skin. And I made a prediction in 2018 and I said, you know what? Something else that's gonna be big is adaptogens. And I still stand by that. Are you excited to talk about adaptability today? Yes, I am.
- [02:26]
C
Yeah. Let's bring it.
- [02:27]
B
I love this topic because it the the word itself tells all and it's adapt. Oh Jims. So adapting means shifting and creating balance. Think of yourself standing in the middle of a seesaw and slightly shifting your weight on your left and on your right and somehow your body still tries to figure out how to stay even.
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C
Mm.
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B
That's homeostasis. Adaptogens that we take internally or supplementally will helps our body get that balance. So if we think about a lot of the translation between what we put in our body and then what we put on our body, my one plus one equals two is that these are so cool. Especially because of the ways that we knock our bodies, our skin out of balance on a daily basis just by waking up. Actually even by sleeping on a pillow that's been wrapped in a pillowcase that's been laundered. There is, we're, we're knocking our balance off. Right. So we see a rise in conversation about microbiome or sensitized skin, our presentation of acne all throughout different types of acne. Understanding fungal acne is a big deal. And what about hyperpigmentation and all? We're gathering a different understanding and at the same time we're pushing the limits. Would you agree?
- [03:46]
C
Yeah. Yeah, that's a really good analogy. I like that.
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B
So adaptogens, I stand by my prediction that they're going to be a huge part of our profession. But I think that also when we take a look in, we can see, well, they kind of already are there. But the conversation needs to be had so we can understand it. So let's talk about adaptogens, a professional perspective for skincare practitioners. We're always looking for ways to optimize skin health for our clients. This is withstanding especially in an era where things like stress related concerns are rising. I don't know if you've noticed that around here, but, and I hate the reference of since COVID but it's just because there's been a definitive line that everybody has been a part of and that was Covid. But even before that there was stress. There was a lot of pressure put on, uh, all humans in the environment, globally. So I think that extra pressure changes our mechanics, changes our behaviors and all of those influence our skin health. So let's talk about adaptogens. Adaptogens are a class of botanicals that are really well known for their stress modulating effects and they have emerged as a compelling addition to skin care. One of my favorite parts here, they are natural substances and you can see em in herbs and mushrooms. And the rise of mushroom coffee is a great example. Have you tried it yet?
- [05:18]
C
I haven't tried it, but I hear about it everywhere.
- [05:22]
B
Yeah, my taste buds are fully adapted to it and I don't even go through the drive through at Starbucks anymore.
- [05:30]
C
Really? You're all about the mushroom coffee?
- [05:32]
B
I'm down because my taste buds have changed. I love it. It gives me a lot more energy. I think my skin looks better, I feel better. I don't have the. Anyways, this is another subject, but if we're looking at how those mushrooms in the mushroom coffee in one of my rituals have affected me in a lot of different ways in my life. It's really similar here. The other things that they're able to restore the equilibrium or the homeostasis and they can provide real targeted benefits for the skin, like real directed. So let's talk about why they deserve a place in advanced skincare. Because you think of herbs and mushrooms and you think holistic.
- [06:10]
C
You do, yeah.
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B
You do, right? You don't think necessarily corrective formulations that can be in treatments that are post ablative, but they're so important because what are ablative services?
- [06:23]
C
They're disruptive.
- [06:24]
B
Disrupt. They're not getting it out of balance on purpose. What's a chemical peel Disruptive on purpose. It's a controlled disruption. So first and foremost, one of the main benefits of adaptogens is that they're anti inflammatory and they have calming. When we look at aging, and this is a topic I do want to explore a little bit more, we just associate it with chronological. But chronic inflammation is a significant contributor to advanced aging and we get that all the time. I was even noticing this in a client who has acne. She's early 30s, but her skin also looks age. Have you experienced that?
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C
Yeah, I do know what you mean.
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B
Yeah. So it like, I think of it as like always running your car.
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C
Yeah, it's depleted.
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B
Depleted, yeah. And tired. And so that's why we're seeing things like a change in acne presentation in not just where it is on the face, but how it erupts, if you will, that we're seeing more rosacea. Especially lately in the last two months I've seen more rosacea and it's all different kinds of rosacea and then also atopic dermatitis. So we look at those and we think of adaptogens. So here's a couple. Ashwagandha, reishi, mushroom and licorice root. Licorice root is one that we've heard about for a long time for its brightening benefits and lots of studies on it. But these also have potent anti inflammatory properties. It's important to help soothe the inflammation for a more balanced skin environment because then we have a correction of a lot of these imbalances, these conditions that we're after in the first place. One of the parts of these adaptogens is that they have bioactive compounds like triterpenes and flavonoids. So triterpenes and flavonoids are, you know, think flavonoids or flavonoids. Some people will say you think of flavor but really they are intended to shift the way the skin cells function. It's optimizing them. And so we think about a big source of terpenes. They're everywhere. One big source of terpenes is tree SAP or saponins. And when you think about why that happens, if you look at a tree that has SAP seeping out, is because it's trying to repair the tree, usually around the bark. And then think about it like the body, the bark would be our skin. So that's an association. But triterpenes, flavonoids, these are incredibly effective at also reducing redness and irritation. So redness and irritation in my mind represent heat. Heat represents inflammation and that is a trigger, a cascade to keeping the skin reactive. Doesn't give it a chance to slow down and calm down. Hold that thought. We'll be right back.
- [09:17]
A
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B
Let's get back to the podcast. Some adaptogens protect against environmental stressors.
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C
Yeah, like ginseng or holly basil are good examples.
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B
Absolutely. For especially for protecting against UV exposure and then combating pollutants. Others include. And also those two that you mentioned, those are rich in antioxidants. So as one of the main things that we try to do as skincare therapists but also as humans is neutralize the oxidative stress on the skin. So really important as antioxidants and supporting against environmental stressors. Very important for clients concerned with this. But another growing concern in the industry is impaired barrier and adaptogens help enhance the barrier resilience.
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C
So clients who are concerned with environmental aging adaptogens can enhance barrier resilience and provide a protective layer against the visible impact of pollution free radicals. Complementing SPF in an anti aging regimen.
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B
Yeah, again, adapting, adapting to the shifts of the environment. Adapting because it's just happening. We can't walk out, really. I can't walk out my bed without being assaulted by something that's not good for me.
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C
Things that influence sebum production is going to be hormonal imbalances. I can totally attest to that.
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B
Yes.
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C
Stress induced fluctuations. This can disrupt sebum production, leading to both oily and dry skin challenges. Adaptogens such as rhodiola and ashwagandha. This supports the endocrine system so it's helping to regulate cortisol levels and in turn it balances that sebum output. So this makes them particularly useful in managing people who are acne prone. Or if you have clients that are combination skin types and where maintaining equilibrium is key. So there are some skin conditions out there that you have clients that are suffering from. Oily patches. Seborrhea, keratosis, for instance, eczema.
- [12:04]
B
All an overproduction. Yeah. Imbalanced. Way too much, not enough. That again, the Goldilocks is in a different area for sure. Yeah, yeah. Adaptogens are key for that, for enhanced superior function and hydration. Schizandra, I love. This is one of my favorite adaptogens because it's schizandra berry. That's how I pronounce it. And if it's not how you're supposed to pronounce it, I don't want to know. But also other mushrooms like cordyceps, they strengthen the natural barrier. So if they're strengthening that, going into what you're saying about balancing production, it helps to support lipid matrix and water retention. And that's a key thing I think we miss a lot is that there's another perfect balance of oil and water in our skin. But if those are good, then the signaling to sebum or sebaceous gland is good. We have a better chance of maintaining that balance. Another way to think about it is being on a surfboard. Now if I think of myself on the surfboard, I think of myself in the water because there's no way. Or a stand up paddleboard. Do you stand up paddleboard?
- [13:07]
C
I've never done it.
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B
No. Okay. It looks so easy. It's not. You have to stand and it's a lot of abs. And one time I was on the stand up paddleboard and my friend was like, oh, look at this. And I was like, I can't. Could not move anything. But my. And that's how I feel sometimes my skin feels in life. Like I'm good. I can't. There's nothing. I have to maintain everything. I can't, I can't change my diet, I can't change my cleanser. I can't do anything because if I turn my head, I will fall in the water and I'll have a, you know, you'll be disrupted. So it did happen to me, I did fall into the water. But I have to be able to train my skin to take on those conditions of movement. Because the thing is I'm. I'm human and I'm going to go on vacation someday, but I'm going to be traveling, I'm going to have. Our weather's changing, there's just circumstances like that. So by boosting the resilience and the hydration levels, this helps to maintain my skin and is stronger. The abs, the core, whatever you want to analogy you want to fit to it, they're stronger. So my skin looks pretty dang good I think for my age. And it's hydrated. So my skin is healthy because I incorporate these adaptogens in there. So when you're thinking about oh, how does this work for me or for my client? This part is particularly beneficial because you'll have to consider that for protocols for dry, dehydrated or compromised skin because these adaptogens reinforce the skin integrity and they promote the smoother, that more supple texture over time. And this is the case even for humid environments. I was talking to someone down in Florida yesterday and she was saying that even if, even when it's winter, cause we're getting ready to go into winter, when it's winter there, she still experiences gynus cuz the humidity shifts. So the humidity there is way different than where we're at in Colorado. And her skin has to adapt what, what it is for them in the winter would be like way too humid for us for what we're used to. But it's just something to consider.
- [15:08]
C
So for clients seeking anti aging benefits, adaptogens are amazing. Ginseng and rishi mushroom, which you touched on a little bit already. They're stimulating fibroblast activity, collagen synthesis and it's contributing to improved firmness and elasticity. I think two ingredients I need to start incorporating.
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B
Yes, for sure. And the holly basil. Yes, the Hol Schisandra schisandra and Holy basil. They sound like a blast.
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C
These ingredients are supporting microcirculation, enhanced cell turnover and they aid in the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. So they make them ideal for inclusion in rejuvenating treatments. Anti aging treatments adaptogens offer a unique non sensitizing method for slowing down the signs of aging, particularly for clients who prefer a natural approach.
- [16:02]
B
I would agree with that and I would say that that's really great. So if you're not, if you have those that don't do well let's say with alpha hydroxy acid stimulation or any other kind of mechanical stimulation, these would be a really great approach. Even adding in other ingredients like Bakuchiol for example, those would be something to consider. But I think with what you just said, there is that right there is the example of how this are, this can be clinical also. This is not just fufi but also clinical contribution or clinical alternative is perfect. So then how do we integrate Adaptogens into treatment plans? Here's the thing. With Adaptogens, we have an opportunity to offer clients many skincare solutions. And these solutions can work in synergy with their bodies, with their natural rhythms. So by incorporating adaptogenic ingredients into topical formulations and then using those formulations in facials and home care routines, we can provide clients with a holistic and I don't mean yoga mama health food store, I mean the whole person, but a holistic results oriented care that can address both internal and external stressors. So whether you use them for calming inflammation, protecting against environmental damage or supporting anti aging efforts, Adaptogens are a valuable addition for any professional skincare strategy. And so for that I'm going to repeat my 2018 statement that they are really important and they can, they might be another next big thing if you don't already subscribe to that. So listeners, we really want to hear from you. What are your thoughts on Adaptogens? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook or send us an email@getconnectedscpskincare.com we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP STTalk.