Ep 296 – Cortisol Face

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 296 – Cortisol Face

Release Date: December 18, 2024
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals
Co-Hosts: Maggie Stasik & Alec Cressman

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Introduction to Cortisol Face

In Episode 296 of ASCP Esty Talk, co-hosts Maggie Stasik and Alec Cressman delve into the trending topic of "Cortisol Face", exploring its implications on skin health and the broader aesthetics industry. Released on December 18, 2024, this episode provides estheticians with valuable insights into how stress hormones, particularly cortisol, influence skin conditions and client well-being.

Understanding Cortisol Face

Cortisol Face refers to the physiological changes in the skin associated with elevated cortisol levels due to chronic stress. Although not an officially recognized medical term, it has gained significant traction on social media and within beauty and wellness communities. The term encapsulates various skin issues such as puffiness, dehydration, dark circles, increased oil production, inflammation, and premature aging—all linked to prolonged stress responses.

Maggie Stasik introduces the concept by stating:

"Cortisol face is increasing oil production, leading to acne breakouts, causing inflammation, and contributing to premature aging."
[08:28]

Personal Experiences and Observations

Alec Cressman shares his firsthand experience with cortisol face, highlighting the physical and emotional toll of chronic stress:

"I looked like a moon face almost. The weight hadn't fluctuated much, but my face lacked definition."
[02:07]

He further elaborates on the challenges he faced, including increased sensitivity and prolonged wound healing, which he connects to adrenal fatigue and chronic cortisol release.

The Debate: Cortisol vs. Lifestyle Factors

A significant portion of the discussion centers around whether cortisol face is solely a result of elevated cortisol levels or influenced by lifestyle factors such as diet, sleep, and alcohol consumption. Maggie Stasik and Alec Cressman engage in a nuanced debate:

"Some argue that puffiness and oily skin are due to poor diet rather than cortisol release."
[06:53]

They acknowledge the intertwined nature of stress and lifestyle choices, emphasizing that while cortisol plays a direct role, factors like diet and sleep also contribute to skin health.

Role of Estheticians in Client Wellness

The conversation shifts to the pivotal role estheticians play in addressing cortisol-related skin issues. Emphasizing the importance of consultation, they discuss how estheticians can assess and educate clients about the impact of stress on their skin without overstepping professional boundaries.

Alec Cressman remarks:

"Awareness and offering suggestions allows the client to be empowered to make solutions or changes on their own."
[08:28]

They advocate for estheticians to incorporate holistic approaches, such as mindfulness and personalized treatment plans, to support clients' overall well-being.

Mental Health and the Aesthetics Industry

The episode highlights the growing connection between mental health and the aesthetics industry. Maggie Stasik and Alec Cressman discuss integrating mental health awareness into skincare practices, suggesting that estheticians can act as supportive figures in their clients' lives.

Maggie Stasik notes:

"Estheticians are adopting a more holistic approach, impacting mental health and stress reduction."
[16:17]

They explore the balance between providing emotional support and maintaining professional boundaries, advocating for additional training and certifications that equip estheticians to address clients' mental well-being effectively.

Holistic Approaches in Skincare

The hosts underscore the importance of a holistic approach in skincare, where treatments extend beyond surface-level solutions to address underlying stress factors. Techniques such as forest bathing and incorporating mindfulness practices into treatment menus are discussed as effective strategies for reducing cortisol levels and promoting skin health.

Alec Cressman shares:

"Taking care of someone through skincare treatments can enhance their mental health by providing relaxation and personal attention."
[17:00]

Conclusion

Episode 296 of ASCP Esty Talk offers a comprehensive exploration of cortisol face, blending scientific insights with personal anecdotes to equip estheticians with the knowledge to better serve their clients. By understanding the intricate link between stress and skin health, estheticians can adopt more empathetic and effective approaches in their practice, fostering both skin wellness and mental well-being.

Notable Quotes

• Alec Cressman:
  "I looked like a moon face almost. The weight hadn't fluctuated much, but my face lacked definition."
  [02:07]

• Maggie Stasik:
  "Cortisol face is increasing oil production, leading to acne breakouts, causing inflammation, and contributing to premature aging."
  [08:28]

• Alec Cressman:
  "Awareness and offering suggestions allows the client to be empowered to make solutions or changes on their own."
  [08:28]

• Maggie Stasik:
  "Estheticians are adopting a more holistic approach, impacting mental health and stress reduction."
  [16:17]

• Alec Cressman:
  "Taking care of someone through skincare treatments can enhance their mental health by providing relaxation and personal attention."
  [17:00]

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For more insights and connections with Maggie and Alec, visit the ASCP Esty Talk show notes or follow them on Instagram and Facebook. Share your experiences with cortisol face on social media or by emailing getconnectedscpskincare.com.

Transcript

[Danae Montague King]

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP's eStatee Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik and ASCP's program director.

[Alec Cressman]

And I'm Alec Cressman, licensed esthetician, ingredient junkie and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

Hey Ella, how you doing?

[Alec Cressman]

Hey girl.

[Maggie Stasik]

Today we're diving into a topic that has been buzzing I hear on social media since I think like the summer. It's cortisol face. Have you been seeing this around?

[Alec Cressman]

Literally in my mirror two months ago.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay. Yeah. So I think you had mentioned this a while back in a prior pod. And I'm curious too if you've noticed changes in your skin or your client's skin during stressful times.

[Alec Cressman]

Yes, it's crazy. What I noticed in myself is I was just poofy. Like poofy everywhere, but especially in my face. It was like a round face looking. Listen, I'm not, I'm not thin by any means, but I, my, there was no definition, there was no cheekbones. There was barely a chin that was popping out. I'm like, what is going on? Like the weight hadn't like barely fluctuated on the scale, but my, I just looked like a moon face almost.

[Maggie Stasik]

And this was just like overnight or it was gradual.

[Alec Cressman]

I think it was gradual if I look back on it. But it was, I was literally in such a place of stress like the last. I mean it's no secret. We've kind of talked about some of the things on here but there's been one thing after another after another. And then I was working in a situation that I hated. I like, hated it. And I think that was silently building up and manifesting on my face. And it was so crazy. So I started being more aware of it and looking at that in my clients, that would come in too. And some of them, I would notice that same puffiness. And when you'd press in, it would have a different sponginess to it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, interesting.

[Alec Cressman]

And a lot of other complications that went along with it. But yeah, it was weird. And I was super reactive too. So I had a, a test out on some pills and I had itchiness, like, itchiness that felt inside, like so far deep in my skin. I couldn't stop itching it. It was like it was sensitized. It went away and then it rebounded again. It was the craziest thing. I'm so glad I got to experience it because it made me more empathetic or understanding. I don't know the right word.

[Maggie Stasik]

Aware.

[Alec Cressman]

Aware. That's a good one. And because when I'm asking my clients, I feel like I can ask the questions. Did it feel like this? Did it feel like this? Did it feel like this? So it was very interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

Well, let's unpack what cortisol face really is, how it affects our appearance, and how the aesthetics industry is adapting to this trend. So to begin, quote, unquote, cortisol face is not an officially recognized medical term yet. Yet.

[Alec Cressman]

Just kidding.

[Maggie Stasik]

Dun, dun, dun. Okay. But it has gained popularity in discussions with regard to stress, skin health, whole body health, even, especially on social media. It's been trending for a while and in the beauty and wellness communities. And the aesthetics industry, I think, is starting to pick up on this term. So the concept like you're describing, it refers to real physiological changes associated with elevated cortisol levels as a result of stress. And it can affect the skin's appearance.

[Alec Cressman]

Yes, absolutely. You know, there is this connection and sometime we'll talk about off label use, but do you know what spironolactone is?

[Maggie Stasik]

Tell us.

[Alec Cressman]

Spironolactone is actually a blocker, an antigen blocker. And it's meant for, when you have these, these high stress amounts, you can go into adrenal. Your adrenals kick in. Right. And so when your adrenals kick in, it creates hormones that help you deal with it. But it's kind of like we use the analogy of being chased by a saber toothed tiger, that adrenals produce Adrenaline. And the adrenaline gives you the strength to run so fast and get up a tree, your palms are sweaty so that they're able to grip better. Like that's where it all began. But now we don't have saber tooth tigers, but we have things like our bosses calling or the bills are due, or, you know, I can't work, or my mom is ill, all of those things. And the body still responds the same where the adrenal glands are going and they're releasing. One of those, as I mentioned, is adrenaline, but another one is cortisol, the stress hormone. So it's okay if it's acute and just a little bit like a pittink, pittink. But where we're at now, where we've established the sense of normalcy, is where it's more of a chronic release of cortisol. So that chronic release of cortisol creates that long term superhuman thing where we're able to get through and get through and get through and get through. But the problem is our bodies aren't designed to keep that all the time. So you can go into things like adrenal fatigue, and there's a whole other host of issues that come along with that. But when we're in this cortisol thing, the body's trying to protect itself and hold on to what it can. And one of those is water. So when you're stressed and you get poofy, that's one of the things.

[Maggie Stasik]

So there are a lot of people that argue that this cortisol face or the puffiness that people are exhibiting is a result of poor diet. Salt, sugar, processed foods. Maybe it's alcohol intake, maybe it's not enough sleep, which are all byproducts of an increase in stress. But that it is not this quote unquote, cortisol face, or it's not a release of cortisol. And they're not discrediting the stress per se, but what you are experiencing is something else.

[Alec Cressman]

Because you drank too much, Right.

[Maggie Stasik]

Or you had a backup.

[Alec Cressman]

Yeah. But why did you have that? Because, like, because you're stressed. Because you're stressed or you're up and you need crunchy to satiate and. Yes, and then that's chicken and the egg.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Alec Cressman]

Which came first?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. Which came first?

[Alec Cressman]

The bag of chips or the oily skin complexion or the poofy face or whatever it is.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah, yeah. So the term encapsulates this growing awareness of how stress impacts physical health, particularly in the context of aesthetics. And I will just say beauty and wellness Industry, not even just the aesthetics industry, is kind of jumping on this bandwagon because their clients are coming in. Clients are stressed. They want a facial. They need to relax, and they're puffy. They're dehydrated, they have dark circles. How does the aesthetics industry help their clients look better, feel better? And then, of course, the consumer also is saying, how can you help me look better and feel better?

[Alec Cressman]

You know where that goes? Back to our favorite word, consultation. Yeah. Ugh. Because that. You have to be aware of all of those factors when you're. When you're addressing something. So you can speak to those things. Not necessarily in detail, but it's like, you know, this could have an effect. And then maybe that triggers them into going, maybe I do need some help to talk to somebody. Or maybe talking to you is part of. Part of it. Talking to you about this is what's going on. Just to be a sounding board as long as you're not holding on to it. But that could be something that helps calm down. So being aware of those things. Not to say you have something wrong with your skin because you ate this. Right. Why did you eat this? Do you. Oh, do you think, I don't know, talking to somebody would help? Or what are some other things, like the forest bathing that we talked about, that can aid in, like, slowing down that adrenal activity and calming it down, even if just for an hour. There's gotta be lasting effect of that.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think it's important from the esthetician's perspective to just at least have a basic understanding of what cortisol is doing to the skin. So the alcohol and the chips are likely having a negative impact on the skin as a result of stress, but cortisol is as well. So it is increasing oil production. This is theoretically leading to acne breakouts. It is causing inflammation, which is also exacerbating all of these inflammatory conditions that we're well familiar with. Acne, eczema rosacea. The list goes on. It has the potential to decrease collagen production. It contributes to premature aging.

[Alec Cressman]

Yeah. And, you know, that's interesting because your resource kind of like when somebody's pregnant, all their resources are going somewhere else. They're not going to building the buildings. And that's the way I think of the collagen production in our body is like when things are going, smoothing, all the workers are there and they're got their scaffolding up and they're making the walls and such. But when there's like a fire on the other side of town, all hands on deck. So hold on just a minute, worker. So when you are having these hormonal shifts or these adrenal shifts or cortisol shifts, then it stops the resources that go for the collagen production. So instead it's trying to put out the fire or it's trying to support the barrier or trying to understand why that we have this puffiness and this water retention and how do we get that to absorb and release and other things. And something else that is affected is wound healing. So that could be an indication. And we think of wounds like a scratch, but a wound can also be like a pop pimple. So if you have a pimple popped, there's a lot of structural damage there and the skin is trying to repair itself. But if it's taking a lot longer, that is probably an indication that there is something going on with adrenals or with cortisol and that's why it's taking a little longer. Hold that thought. We'll be right back.

[Danae Montague King]

Ellie Banna, Australian born, globally loved. Ellie Banna's story is simple. They love lashes and brows. They shoot for the stars and lift lashes to to new heights. Their addiction is real. Their passion is popping. And there is nothing more they crave than offering excellence, service and innovation in products. Ellibana Lash Lift allows you to offer your customers luscious lifted lashes that can last up to 12 weeks in one safe 20 minute treatment. Learn more at ellie banna-usa.com okay, here we go.

[Alec Cressman]

Let's get back to the podcast. Another thing about cortisol for me especially, this was crazy girl. I was like Tarzan, like swinging through the jungle of moods. Like I was like over here and then over there because it was just like rushes and rushes and rushes of things. And that is not fun when you're experiencing it firsthand. It's not fun at all.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I am right there with you. Big Krabby Patty.

[Alec Cressman]

Yeah. Or Happy Patty on the other. Give me five minutes. It was crazy. I'm like, what is going on? My poor husband had to endure. I'm like, why are your socks there? And just things that really didn't matter, but they would set me off because all my whole body was locked and loaded and ready to go with it. So it absolutely affected my self esteem, my mental health and then also that then created this weird cycle of stress and then like you just kept going and going, snowballing.

[Maggie Stasik]

We have talked before in other podcasts about the aesthetics industry being more aware and having this connection to Mental health. And should there be a line drawn.

[Alec Cressman]

With, like, out of scope of practice? Yeah. Should there be a line, John, between the scopes of practice? I. I don't know, because. Yeah, I think you have to be aware as a practitioner. I would love to see more of that incorporated into the school or advanced education, not required. Similar how we look at nutrition. Like, there's no. I mean, it's a little bit of a gray area for scope of practice, but we understand that one affects the other. So we can take a course to be more educated on the subject, to provide advice, but not prescribe, necessarily. So if we were looking at. Or a yogi saying that this. A yoga instructor saying that this would help this way. They're not necessarily a mental health professional, but they understand that one affects the other. So I think the awareness of it and offering suggestions allows the client or the patient to be empowered to make solutions or changes on their own to take action.

[Maggie Stasik]

I am aware of estheticians going out, getting additional training or certifications where they are also now life coaches or, you know, whatever it is, so that they can be better equipped, if you will, to provide that advice and be a sounding board for the client who's coming in and. And needs that therapy, if you will.

[Alec Cressman]

Yeah. And I think. I think that some people might be more open to that than going to see, like a talk therapist. I mean, it's a lot more accessible now because you have a lot of virtual options. But they're going. They're just going to see their hairstylist or their nails done or their esthetician. And I don't mean to put them all in the same category, but there's a disarming part of that. Something like, for me, my mental health is completely enhanced when I go get my nails done. And guess what? We don't even talk. It's just that somebody's touching me. I'm stopping. I literally can't touch my phone for an hour. And someone is taking complete care of me. So it gives me time to think and to sort things out in my. In my life or in my head, if nothing else. And I'm so grateful for that time. We barely speak, but I just have so much adoration for her, and she does for me because she's taking care of me for that time, and I love it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I think that all aspects of the aesthetics treatment contribute to that stress reduction. You are getting your facial, you're being touched, you're having personal attention and skin analysis, even that is specific just for you. Someone's taking the time to analyze and tell you, this is what I'm noticing. This is the treatment plan that we're creating just for you.

[Alec Cressman]

And if someone says to you, like, your skin looks a little bit. Are you under a lot? What's your stress level like? It might just be like, they see me.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

They understand, or, oh, my gosh, there is a connection to this.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

You can do it in a way that's not crossing the boundaries. That's still within your scope of practice. The same you would say, like, do you smoke? None of my business. But I do see, like, a little bit more congestion in this area, so that could be the reason why. And then they're like, they saw me.

[Maggie Stasik]

I. I'm also aware of clinics that are incorporating mindfulness into not just their treatments, but also adding it to their menu, which I think is brilliant. And I think it just goes to show how more and more estheticians are aware of a more holistic approach to treating their clients and having a overarching impact on just mental health and stress reduction and caring for the whole client, not just the skin.

[Alec Cressman]

Well, you know what I hear with that, too, is, like, taking care of someone, but I also hear, ooh, that's a great way to have client loyalty.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

Because they feel cared for.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

And there's something to say, especially for a lot of people who are natural caretakers like me. Are you a natural caretaker, do you think?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I think all estheticians are. You have to have a nurturing side or you're in the wrong industry.

[Alec Cressman]

But do you accept it? Do you accept to be nurtured?

[Maggie Stasik]

Do I accept to be nurtured? Oh, Ella, that's another conversation.

[Alec Cressman]

Yeah. That's totally different. Right. Yeah. And I think a lot of people are like that. So when you have. I mean, so many people in the world, especially when you have people who are, let's just say, mothers or fathers who are also working, and then they've got to get them to soccer or, you know, all of these other considerations. They're caring for everybody else. Is dinner made? Is. Are the bills paid? Is the lawn cut? Okay, great. And then they're coming in, and they're being cared for by us esthetician that they're. It's like, I just got chills thinking about it. Like, it feels so good. It's so much more than just the serum you're putting on.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

It's so much more than the skin you're cleaning off.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Alec Cressman]

Or the laser that you're doing well. It's so much more than that. It's, it's, it's so much more than just. I have a minute for me, you're.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right now, listeners, we want to hear from you. Are you seeing the term cortisol face pop up on social media, or are your clients asking about this in the treatment room? Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnectedscpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCPSDtalk. And as always, for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ella and myself or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.