ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 309 – What the Deck? Superstar Ingredients
Hosts:
- Ella Cressman (B): Licensed Esthetician and Content Contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals
- Maggie Stasik (C): Licensed Esthetician and ASCP Program Director
Release Date: March 12, 2025
Introduction
In Episode 309 of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik delve into the evolving landscape of skincare ingredients. Titled "What the Deck? Superstar Ingredients," the episode explores innovative, sustainable, and personalized ingredients reshaping the esthetics industry. From vegan collagen to postbiotics and ecotin, the discussion balances enthusiasm for new advancements with critical evaluation of their efficacy and marketing.
Vegan Collagen: Ethical Innovation or Marketing Ploy?
Definition & Sources:
Vegan collagen is presented as a plant-based, synthetically created alternative to traditional collagen, which is typically derived from animal sources like bovine or marine origins. It is sourced from materials such as yeast, bacteria, and genetically modified plants like corn or soy.
Comparison with Traditional Collagen:
Ella (B) highlights the synthetic nature of vegan collagen, noting its similarity to animal collagen’s molecular structure. Maggie (C) raises skepticism about collagen's ability to permeate the skin effectively, questioning whether topical applications can deliver the promised benefits.
Benefits & Controversies:
Vegan collagen is touted for being ethical, sustainable, cruelty-free, and eco-conscious. It claims to enhance skin firmness, reduce fine lines, and boost hydration akin to traditional collagen. However, concerns arise regarding its GMO origins and whether it genuinely delivers on its promises.
Notable Quotes:
- Ella (B) [03:34]: “I feel like I have a book of ingredients... probably more like a brochure compared to the ingredients that we use now.”
- Maggie (C) [05:32]: “There’s a lot of debate about whether collagen itself can even permeate the surface of the skin to create change.”
Analysis:
The hosts acknowledge the ethical advantages of vegan collagen but remain cautious about its actual efficacy compared to traditional collagen. The discussion underscores the need for estheticians to critically evaluate new ingredients rather than accepting them at face value.
Postbiotics: Supporting the Skin’s Microbiome or Just Marketing?
Definition & Differences:
Postbiotics are bioactive compounds produced when probiotics (live bacteria) break down into nutrients, including enzymes, peptides, polysaccharides, and vitamins. Unlike probiotics, postbiotics are non-living, making them more stable and suitable for topical formulations.
Benefits Touted:
Postbiotics are claimed to strengthen the skin barrier, prevent water loss, protect against environmental irritants, and exhibit anti-inflammatory properties. They are marketed as essential for balancing the skin's microbiome, thereby preventing issues like eczema, acne, and rosacea.
Skepticism & Marketing Concerns:
Maggie (C) expresses doubt about the necessity of postbiotics, questioning if they offer benefits beyond what existing ingredients like enzymes and peptides already provide. She suggests that the trend might be more about marketing leveraging the popularity of microbiome-related terms rather than substantial scientific advancements.
Notable Quotes:
- Ella (B) [09:13]: “Postbiotics support the microbiome that's already there, this perceived probably imbalance which is causing compromised skin or acneic skin.”
- Maggie (C) [09:46]: “I don't know why we would need a prebiotic if our microbiome is already healthy.”
Analysis:
While postbiotics offer stability advantages over probiotics, the hosts remain skeptical about their unique benefits. The conversation hints at a possible overextension of microbiome science into skincare marketing without clear, differentiated benefits.
Ecotin: The Environmental Defense Powerhouse
What is Ecotin?
Ecotin is described as a natural molecule derived from extremophiles—microorganisms that thrive in harsh environments like salt flats and deserts. These extremophiles produce ecotin to protect their DNA and proteins from extreme stress.
Benefits for Skincare:
Ecotin translates to skincare by providing environmental defense mechanisms:
- Environmental Protection: Shields against UV radiation, pollution, and blue light exposure.
- Moisture Retention: Similar to hyaluronic acid, it binds water molecules, keeping the skin hydrated and supple.
- Anti-Inflammatory: Reduces redness, irritation, and inflammation, which is crucial for preventing long-term skin issues.
- Resilience and Repair: Strengthens the skin barrier, enhancing its ability to recover from damage and maintain long-term health.
Notable Quotes:
- Ella (B) [13:14]: “Ecotin is pretty cool. I do like that quite a bit.”
- Maggie (C) [15:27]: “Ecotin really does it all.”
Analysis:
Ecotin stands out as a multifaceted ingredient with robust benefits for skin protection and health. Its origins in extremophiles offer a unique selling point, resonating with consumers concerned about environmental stressors. The hosts view ecotin favorably, recognizing its potential to address contemporary skincare challenges effectively.
Conclusion: Navigating the Future of Skincare Ingredients
In this episode, Ella and Maggie navigate the intricate landscape of new skincare ingredients, balancing excitement for sustainable and innovative options with a healthy dose of skepticism. They encourage estheticians to stay informed and critically assess the benefits versus the marketing narratives of ingredients like vegan collagen and postbiotics. Ecotin emerges as a standout, demonstrating clear, multifaceted benefits that align well with current skincare needs.
Takeaways:
- Vegan Collagen: Ethical and sustainable but requires scrutiny regarding efficacy.
- Postbiotics: Offer stability and microbiome support, yet their necessity and distinct benefits remain debatable.
- Ecotin: A promising ingredient for environmental defense, moisture retention, and skin resilience.
Call to Action:
The hosts invite listeners to share their thoughts on these superstar ingredients via Instagram, Facebook, or email at email@getconnectedcpskincare.com.
Final Note:
For more insights and to connect with Ella and Maggie, listeners are encouraged to check out the show notes and stay tuned for future episodes of ASCP Esty Talk.
Notable Timestamps:
- 01:40: Introduction of Hosts Ella and Maggie
- 03:34: Discussion on Evolution of Skincare Ingredients
- 05:07: Definition and Debate on Vegan Collagen
- 09:13: Introduction to Postbiotics
- 13:03: Deep Dive into Ecotin Benefits
- 15:27: Final Thoughts on Ecotin
This comprehensive summary encapsulates the key discussions and insights from Episode 309 of ASCP Esty Talk, providing estheticians and skincare enthusiasts with valuable information on emerging ingredients shaping the future of skincare.