Ep 340 – The Skin Care Recession

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk - Episode 340: The Skin Care Recession
Release Date: August 13, 2025
Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals

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Introduction to the Skincare Recession

In Episode 340 of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman delve into the emerging phenomenon termed the "skincare recession." This concept highlights a significant slowdown in the growth of the skincare industry, a sector that has long been a cornerstone of the beauty world.

Maggie Stasik introduces the topic by stating, "Skincare has long been the star of the beauty world, but new data shows it's slowing down dramatically. And it's not just a dip in product sales. It's a signal that the whole industry is evolving." (02:05)

Current Industry Trends: Shift Towards Fragrance and Makeup

The conversation begins by exploring the shifting consumer focus from skincare to other beauty categories such as fragrance and makeup. Circana data for 2024 reveals that while skincare's growth rate stands at a modest 2%, fragrance and makeup have surged with growth rates of 12% and 5% respectively.

Ella Cressman reflects on this shift, noting, "It's so funny...the no makeup look has been popular. And even the tutorials. I just crack up watching the tutorials of makeup application to make it look like you're not wearing makeup." (03:20)

Factors Driving the Skincare Slowdown

The hosts identify three primary factors contributing to the skincare recession:

1. Oversaturation and Consumer Fatigue
2. Emotional Value Driven by Fragrance and Makeup
3. Redefined Value Amid Rising Costs

1. Oversaturation and Consumer Fatigue

Maggie Stasik discusses the overwhelming number of product launches, stating, "There are 250 plus product launches yearly. And this easily is leading to consumer fatigue or confusion." (05:59)

Ella Cressman shares her experiences with consumer confusion, emphasizing the importance of skincare audits during consultations to help clients navigate the plethora of products and dispel misconceptions. She advises estheticians to "set the record straight for your clients...evaluate the products coming to market." (07:38)

2. Emotional Value Driven by Fragrance and Makeup

The immediate sensory and emotional gratification offered by fragrance and makeup contrast with the often clinical perception of skincare. Maggie Stasik highlights this by mentioning the lipstick effect, where consumers seek instant confidence through makeup.

Ella Cressman suggests integrating scent into treatments to enhance emotional connections, stating, "Having this emotional connection is scent is directly connected to your limbic system, which is directly connected to memory." (12:47)

3. Redefined Value Amid Rising Costs

With economic pressures, consumers are reevaluating their spending habits, demanding more visible and fast results. Ella Cressman shares her strategic decision to upgrade her product line despite higher costs, ensuring higher efficacy and aligning with brand support. She explains, "It was a very scary move, but it was something that I had to do." (15:08)

Adapting to the Skincare Recession: Opportunities for Estheticians

The hosts discuss several strategies for estheticians to navigate the skincare recession:

• Incorporate Emotional Elements: Integrate scents and aromatherapy into treatments to provide immediate emotional satisfaction.

  Ella Cressman notes, "In my studio, I have citrus up front and I have like a calming blend in the treatment room." (14:40)

• Redefine Value Proposition: Offer high-efficacy products and services that justify higher prices by delivering tangible results and enhanced client experiences.

• Collaborate with Makeup Artists: Establish partnerships to provide comprehensive beauty solutions without overextending individual expertise.

  Ella Cressman suggests, "Find a great makeup artist who maybe can refer to you for skincare treatments." (17:09)

• Simplify Retail Offerings: Focus on quality over quantity by selecting products that offer multiple benefits and reduce consumer overwhelm.

Maggie Stasik encapsulates this sentiment, stating, "Consumers still care about science and results, but they're also craving simplicity and emotional connection." (19:36)

Reframing the Skincare Recession as an Opportunity

Rather than viewing the skincare recession as a downturn, the hosts advocate for seeing it as a period ripe for industry reinvention. By embracing adaptability and focusing on connection, trust, and experience, estheticians can position themselves for future growth.

Maggie Stasik concludes, "This is a uniquely positioned opportunity for estheticians to humanize and simplify skincare." (19:47)

Listener Engagement and Closing Thoughts

The episode encourages listeners to share their observations and experiences regarding changes in client skincare habits, fostering a community dialogue on adapting to industry shifts.

Ella Cressman adds a final note of encouragement: "Not to be too afraid. Being aware will help you adapt to what you need to do to ensure your business success." (20:22)

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Key Takeaways

• Skincare Recession Defined: A significant slowdown in skincare industry growth due to factors like oversaturation, shifting consumer focus, and economic pressures.

• Shift to Fragrance and Makeup: Increased consumer preference for products offering immediate sensory and emotional satisfaction.

• Strategies for Estheticians:

  • Conduct skincare audits to guide clients through product choices.
  • Incorporate emotional and sensory elements into treatments.
  • Redefine value by offering high-efficacy products and services.
  • Collaborate with other beauty professionals to provide comprehensive solutions.

• Opportunity for Reinvention: Embrace the skincare recession as a chance to innovate, simplify offerings, and strengthen client relationships.

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Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Maggie Stasik: "Skincare has long been the star of the beauty world, but new data shows it's slowing down dramatically." (02:05)

• Ella Cressman: "It's been...like alpha pinene signals calm and everything's cool and citrus will encourage happy and happy people." (12:47)

• Ella Cressman: "Being aware will help you adapt to what you need to do to ensure your business success." (20:22)

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Conclusion

Episode 340 of ASCP Esty Talk provides a comprehensive overview of the current challenges facing the skincare industry, while also offering actionable insights for estheticians to adapt and thrive. By understanding the factors behind the skincare recession and leveraging emotional and experiential elements, skincare professionals can navigate this transition effectively, ensuring sustained growth and client satisfaction.

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Timestamps

• 02:05(Introduction to the Skincare Recession)
• 03:20(Shift Towards Fragrance and Makeup)
• 05:59(Oversaturation and Consumer Fatigue)
• 07:38(Importance of Skincare Audits)
• 12:47(Emotional Value of Scent)
• 15:08(Redefining Value Amid Rising Costs)
• 14:40(Incorporating Scents into Treatments)
• 17:09(Collaboration with Makeup Artists)
• 19:36(Reframing the Skincare Recession)
• 19:47(Opportunity for Reinvention)
• 20:22(Final Encouragement)

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For more information on this episode or to connect with hosts Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik, visit the show notes on getconnectedscpskincare.com.

Transcript

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP Zesty Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

And I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, skincare enthusiast, ingredient junkie and content contributor for ascp.

[Maggie Stasik]

All right, Ella, I'm really excited for this topic. Today we're diving into a major shift happening in the beauty industry and it directly affects estheticians and honestly, you may already be feeling it in the treatment room. We're talking about what is being called the skincare recession.

[Ella Cressman]

Sounds ominous.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, it's ominous. So skincare has long been the star of the beauty world, but new data shows it's slowing down dramatically. And it's not just a dip in product sales. It's a signal that the whole industry is evolving. Are you sensing this at all?

[Ella Cressman]

It is crazy. I noticed back in February a huge dip, a huge pause. It was almost a screeching halt. And I'm like, what is going on? So I love that you use the word evolving and not stopping because I agree that there is a shift and a change, something that has happened time and time again. But the evolution, you have to be aware first of all that it's happening and then plan on how to navigate it. Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, very good. Yeah. So after years of growth driven by the pandemic, some would argue social media buzz and all the science fueled marketing, fragrance and makeup are now taking the lead while skincare is stalling.

[Ella Cressman]

It's so funny. That's so interesting because the no makeup look has been popular. And even the tutorials. I just crack up watching the tutorials of makeup application to make it look like you're not wearing makeup.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, it's very interesting. And you know what else I notice is that fragrance is everywhere right now. So let's first take a look at what's happening in skincare right now. Consumers seem to be shifting attention to other beauty categories. So fragrance and makeup. For instance, during 2024, Circana data shows US fragrance growing at a 12% rate. That's amazing. Makeup was up at 5%. And this is all compared to skincare at only a 2% growth rate.

[Ella Cressman]

Somebody's winning this race. Yeah, I can absolutely see that.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think that's really interesting because year over year we have looked at skin care and always been boggled by its massive growth rate. And so to say, in the past year it's only grown at 2%. That's crazy.

[Ella Cressman]

It is crazy. But the good news is it's still growing. So it's not stop completely. It's just these other categories are taking off. And I'm imagining there is definite psychological reason or emotional reasoning for that.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, it could be. That's really interesting. So this term skincare recession is gaining traction among data analysts and even estheticians. And obviously this is impacting estheticians directly. So what could be driving this skincare slowdown? There's three big forces, supposedly, or three big factors. The first, oversaturation and consumer fatigue. What do you think? What comes first to mind when you hear that?

[Ella Cressman]

A Facebook post about twice a week.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, God.

[Ella Cressman]

You see this happen a lot. I mean, there's a couple things that come to mind. But you see the complaint often in these Facebook groups of I can't find a job. And it's either the original poster or a commenter that it's revealed. Oh, it's because the industry is oversaturated, which isn't anything we haven't spoken about before as far as that fear in estheticians. But we've also been quick to point out, hey, a lot of there's a face for everyone too. I think the over saturation also comes from, well, who do I listen to? Am I listening to these brands? Am I listening to these influencers? Am I listening to the celebrities who are now launching their own skincare products? How do I know what to do next? That's what I think it is. I don't think it's the profession itself. I think it's the abundance of skin care and that rapid rise in popularity like you were talking about with an industry trying to keep up with or ride on coattails, however you want to talk about it. And all these launches, launches, launches, launches.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Everybody wants a piece of the pie. They're all trying to get in on the market. What's really interesting is there are 250 plus product launches yearly. And this easily is leading to consumer fatigue or confusion. And it's not just beauty and wellness. It could be SaaS products, it's the influencer brands that you're talking about. The, um, you know, celebrities that are launching products. And then of course, professional lines are also launching new products year over year. So to keep up with all of these things, even for the professional, can be fatiguing.

[Ella Cressman]

Absolutely. I will say that one practice that I hold dear, I don't know.

[Maggie Stasik]

Dear.

[Ella Cressman]

I mean, let's be. Calm down, Ella. Well, one of the things that I like to do is a skincare audit with my initial consultation. Because of this. Now it's even worse than it was 10 years ago, 20 years ago. But if you're doing a skincare audit, this is an opportunity to address what they're really using, but to dispel some of the misconceptions they may have or some of the redirect some of the information that they've gotten from these sources particularly, or to explain some of the claims companies make. Because I think we have really encourage this clinical language and a lot of it's just marketing and not necessarily true or all the way true. It's definitely manipulation. So I think that is a esthetician opportunity or an aesthetic professional opportunity to set the record straight for your clients or your patients, depending on where you're at.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think that's really smart and I imagine not many people do that. It's very easy to look at a website or see something come through on your social media and it is just marketing. Or it could be a blatant false claim, but our eyes glaze over it. We're reading the headline and we just go, oh, that's interesting. And it's lodged in our mind. It becomes truth. But as professional estheticians, I think it is our responsibility or our duty to say, wait a minute, go back, do the audit like you're saying, and really evaluate the products coming to market. The claims that we're seeing, do they have validity? What is the truth behind them? Because our clients are seeing the same things.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, you want. Can I have a confession? Sucker alert. I got inundated with a Facebook targeted ad. No, I think it was Instagram, Whatever it was, it was this ad that kept. I'm going to be honest, I play a game on my tablet and it was a pop up ad and it said all you have to do is pay shipping for this product and if you don't like it then, or if it doesn't work for you, then don't pay for it. We're delaying the payment. And it kept popping up and popping up and popping up. So I found where they sell it for real, because I didn't want to buy into that. I'm like, oh, go buy it for real. So I went to Ulta, I bought the product and it's a skin tightening slash, helps you sleep at night. I also looked on Amazon to see if that was available there. There are some dupes, but I'm like, I'm not going to chance it. I spent $50 basically on a whipped body butter. And let me tell you, it was really hard to wake up the next day because there's something in them that makes you sleep. And I was so groggy and I was so grouchy. I'm like, oh, it's a fluke. Let me use it again the next day. And I same thing. Like, normally I'm up at 5:30, it was almost 7, and I'm like, what is going on? Like, and I decided I'm only gonna use it on the weekends. But the clinical claims is that within eight weeks you're supposed to have tighter skin. Wow.

[Maggie Stasik]

Tighter skin and better sleep.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, deep sleep, let me tell you.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, who wouldn't want that?

[Ella Cressman]

Well then I looked into the claims of who they did this study on. It was like 60 people. Yeah, clinical claims.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

So it brings me to like another professional only product that recently launched. I'm not gonna use names, but it was another like body tightening product. It was in clinical trials when they launched it. The clinical trials come back, not effective. So be careful. Yeah, be careful what you buy into. I know, like, just try it. It's okay because sometimes it may or may not work for you. But careful what you spend your money on.

[Maggie Stasik]

You're bringing up really good points of why consumers are feeling overwhelmed or skeptical, confused. There are so many clinical claims, a lot of jargon out there, a lot of buzzwords, and much of this has to do with simply just marketing, not actually what the product does or even if the product is effective. So really good points. And do what Ella does, do an audit. So emotional value is number two reason fragrance and makeup are leading, because they're offering immediate Sensory and emotional satisfaction. I argue this because I'm one of those people that gets, like, a new skincare cream. It smells good, it feels good. I put it on. That's immediate.

[Ella Cressman]

Immediate boom. Yeah. But we've moved away from fragrance in skincare. A lot of.

[Maggie Stasik]

I mean, over the last, well, fragrance, quote, unquote. I mean, your product can still have a scent. It's just not fragrance.

[Ella Cressman]

Right. Yes. I can empathize with your point, and I don't disagree because, oh, my God, I'm in love with my skin right now. I started a new product in April, and my skin has never felt better. I make people touch it. That's so good. I love it. But what I will tell you on the other side of that is it's been. You know, it was a gradual. I mean, there's a little bit of instant and gradual versus I can do a full face to makeup, but it's not until my mascara goes on that I don't feel awake, finished, and ready for the day.

[Maggie Stasik]

Mascara is a thing for you, then.

[Ella Cressman]

A huge thing for me. Yeah. Don't leave the house without it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And I can have a great day, but I can have an even better day if I feel rich. Like, some perfume makes me feel rich. And if I feel rich, I feel confident. If I feel confident, I walk a little taller and so on. Some perfume has made me feel embarrassed, but I tried it.

[Maggie Stasik]

So I got to tell you, my mom is, like, perfume obsessed. Like, she has bibles about perfume and scent and whatever.

[Ella Cressman]

Nice.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know if it's nice. I can't go anywhere without feeling like I'm smelling my mom. When people pass by with perfume on.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, wow.

[Maggie Stasik]

It's a problem.

[Ella Cressman]

It's a problem, Mom.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Yeah. And now even my husband's like, oh, that woman smells like your mom.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, geez.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

You can't overdo it. I would agree.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

To your point of it. Having this emotional connection is scent is directly connected to your limbic system, which is directly connected to memory. So you're associating memories. That's why real estate agents bake cookies. These cookies feel like home or comfort, and the scent maybe feels like your mom, and that's off putting for some, but, you know, that's. That's the memory connection, that instant emotional satisfaction.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. I think in comparison, skincare sometimes feels too clinical. You're not getting that comfort feeling.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. Unless it's applied by somebody else. Oh, yeah, for sure.

[Maggie Stasik]

In uncertain times, people want quick emotional payoffs. And we might be in that period right now. So we've all heard about the lipstick effect. Lipstick gives that instant confidence. Fragrance creates a vibe or makes you feel a certain emotion. What does skincare have?

[Ella Cressman]

I think this is also a call for estheticians to consider this and potentially add a scent element to your treatments. Whether it's diffusing essential oil or there's a lot of essential oil infused massage products, for example, to have a certain effect. It's a lot of fun to explore. I'll tell you that. As was one of my favorite modules in skincare formulation school. And then also it does have a direct influence on mood. Two great examples are citrus and lavender. Lavender we know signals, like scientifically signals calming in the brain, similar to pine or alpha pinene. Beta pinene signals calm and everything's cool and citrus will encourage happy and happy people. Buy more. So in my studio, I have citrus up front and I have like a calming blend in the treatment room.

[Maggie Stasik]

That's smart.

[Ella Cressman]

Works all right.

[Maggie Stasik]

Number three is redefined value. With rising costs, people are reevaluating where they spend. They want visible, they want fast results and especially with economic pressures. So this is perhaps putting pressure on skincare brands. It's also putting pressure on estheticians. So we have to meet that need for value, both emotionally and functionally.

[Ella Cressman]

I did something super risky last spring. I ended up bringing on a new product line. Remember I told you February, my sales were so low, they were one quarter of my service ratio. Or normally it's one to one service to sales or one to two service to sales. So I'm like, whoa, what is going on here? Some things happened. I ended up taking a chance and I had a complete refresh of my products and then added new things into the back bar. They are way more expensive. They're at least 30% more expensive than what I had before. Sometimes 50, sometimes 6. Look, you get it. Uh, but the products themselves are more pointed, direct, and also encompass many things. So at the end of the day, it's an even switch for the client. But I have been impassioned with the brand support that particular brand gives me. And so that value was there for me. It was not an. It was a very scary move, but it was something that I had to do. So with. You're talking about redefining value. I took that into consideration. I got with a company that aligned and voila. I think the first inclination is to go cheaper or to pare down, which is not wrong either. But that's just my 12 cents.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think a Lot of people, especially in quote, unquote, uncertain times, are thinking, let's pare down, let's simplify. Let's make it better for the client. That is not wrong. But you're making a really good point about this parallel transition. It worked for you. It still works for the clients. It's meeting both goals.

[Ella Cressman]

Absolutely. And I'm happy.

[Maggie Stasik]

So let's talk about this rise of fragrance and makeup. It's interesting because just a few years ago, you mentioned this earlier. Everyone was obsessed with this no makeup, makeup look. Now the pendulum is swinging in the other direction. I think that's kind of how trends work, right?

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. Just when I find blush, it comes back. I'm not saying I'm a trendsetter, but you might be.

[Tyzo Skin]

Ella.

[Maggie Stasik]

It's all because of you.

[Ella Cressman]

You feel like it. Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

So makeup is bouncing back. Fragrance is booming, and the analysts, I guess we'll say, are pointing to it's giving immediate emotional impact, immediate gratification, and that's what the consumer's looking for right now.

[Ella Cressman]

You know what, then, as a professional, something to consider would be like a point of sale product, a tinted lip gloss. Ah, boom, boom. Satiated feels. Everybody's happy.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. So not every esthetician does makeup. It's its own specialty. At least that's how I view it. And some estheticians don't even offer it. I think due to licensure in some states, you need a special licensure to do makeup. So this maybe feels like a curveball to some people.

[Ella Cressman]

It could. Here's the thing. We've talked about it too. We don't need to be do alls. Instead, let's be cooperative. Find a great makeup artist who maybe can refer to you for skincare treatments or something like that. The other thing is, do you have a really good makeup remover in your retail offerings? Because you're gonna need it, you know, or being aware of some of the counter effects makeup can have. So there's not necessarily a call to hurry out and get your makeup artistry certificate or qualifications or start a portfolio. But just being aware, I think, is key.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, 100%. You took the words right out my mouth. This is an invitation. There is so much opportunity here for estheticians, whether it's that tinted lip balm or you've got a good makeup remover or you've got somebody you can refer to as the esthetician, and not just with makeup, but also that sensory experience, as you mentioned earlier, start incorporating the aromatherapy, and it doesn't have to be even in the treatment. It's like you said, it's in your lobby, it's in your treatment room space.

[Ella Cressman]

And it can even be in your vernacular saying something like smell this lotion. Doesn't it smell happy? There you go. That makes me want to buy it.

[Maggie Stasik]

So this is all to say skincare is not losing relevance, but it's being redefined. So we're already seeing this shift towards wellness driven services. We've talked a lot about that. Clients want results and they want relaxation. They want efficacy and emotional connection. So how do we bring this full circle?

[Ella Cressman]

I think just incorporating a few things that we've talked about through this podcast will really help. And then being open to newness. So being prepared and being aware are key.

[Maggie Stasik]

So this quote unquote skincare recession. This is a moment for industry reinvention, not demise. Consumers still care about science and results, but they're also craving simplicity and emotional connection. And this is a uniquely positioned opportunity for estheticians to humanize and simplify skincare. So connection, trust, experience. This could drive future growth. And I think estheticians always are very good at adapting. So embrace adaptability and focus on what clients really want.

[Ella Cressman]

I think also I just want to add not to be too afraid. Being aware will help you adapt to what you need to do to ensure your business success.

[Maggie Stasik]

Listeners, we want to hear from you. Have you noticed changes in your clients skincare habits? Are they asking for something different lately? Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnectedscpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCPSDtalk and as always, for more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Ella and myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.

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