Maggie Stasik (3:37)

Yeah, that this surprises me because laser hair removal is also a huge industry. So the fact that waxing is still so massive and continuing to grow really says something big.

Ella Crestman (3:53)

Huge. North America alone represents a multibillion dollar market for wax products and services. And demand continues to rise in North America. It is expected to grow just in North America from 2.2 billion in 2024 to 3.1 billion in 2033. Other areas to consider is the professional services market because we have like at home and obviously professional, which is funny. I'm sure we have some funny stories in that too. But the professional market is estimated to generate 10.4 million in 2024. Again because a lot of these statistics came out, you know, they're a little bit late. And it's expected to reach 16 million by 2030. Lots of growth in that area. And then we have product and consumer trends where at home waxing products and professional services are both expanding and what they're prioritizing and how things have changed. These have been around for a long time. But pre made waxing strips and at home products are a growing part of this category. But hair removal products overall, including wax creams, post care, they're all valued about 3.6 billion in 2023. Flip those numbers around by 2030 to 6.3. That's like double in. What is that, seven years? Crazy.

Maggie Stasik (5:19)

Yeah, that is crazy. You said hair removal products, including creams. So is Nair still a thing? Is that what we're talking about here?

Ella Crestman (5:27)

Post? Well, it could be like the chemical debilitaries.

Maggie Stasik (5:30)

Yeah.

Ella Crestman (5:32)

Not as much. People aren't as excited about that area. But the post care part of it.

Maggie Stasik (5:36)

I see. Yeah.

Ella Crestman (5:37)

Like what they go home with and how they care for the skin after the service, whether it's home or in a professional setting.

Maggie Stasik (5:46)

Yeah, it's a whole experience.

Ella Crestman (5:47)

Well, let's talk about three. Let's look back, right, to see where we are, see where we're going. We have to know where we're coming from. So there's three key turning points in the long history of Waxing that we can identify. I'm sure you are well versed. Did you teach the waxing section at, at your school?

Maggie Stasik (6:05)

I did, yeah.

Ella Crestman (6:06)

Was it your favorite?

Maggie Stasik (6:09)

I enjoyed it, but it was quite stressful for students. Especially when we got to the Brazilian wax lesson.

Ella Crestman (6:15)

Yeah. I only saw one Brazilian and I never performed a Brazilian or a bikini wax when I was in school.

Maggie Stasik (6:22)

Really?

Ella Crestman (6:23)

I did one eyebrow, like the left eyebrow. Wow. And then I did arms and legs. Okay. Because that's what we do. Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (6:30)

You know, at the start of the wax class or the wax module, everyone was always so nervous. But then by the end of that module, everyone honestly had experienced everything, including Brazilian. I was very surprised that people all were willing to try it.

Ella Crestman (6:50)

To receive. Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (6:51)

To receive and perform it. And yeah, it was a good class.

Ella Crestman (6:55)

That's awesome. It wasn't for me and I don't know if it was because we were a night class, there were less students. I wasn't do. I was not volunteering for that at all. So I don't know. So let's talk about early hair removal as ritual and hygiene, like way, way back in the day. Because waxing or depilation is a long time practice. In ancient civilizations, they used sugar pastes, resins, honey and oils to remove hair, something we still do now. But the practice wasn't cosmetic. It was tied to cleanliness, social status, ritual and beauty, not just convenience. These early methods established the foundation for root based hair removal different from shaving. So why do you think it matters?

Maggie Stasik (7:44)

I think waxing has always been about more than aesthetics. It has roots in hygiene and skincare, not just appearance.

Ella Crestman (7:54)

Yeah, very much so. And then it wasn't right. It was like in fashion to have it or groom it. And I think it changes quite a bit. But where we saw the standardization of salon waxes was like mid to late 20th century, would you say? Yeah, this is where we saw them becoming more of a professional service, not just like an at home practice. Because it's my vision that those were things that you did at home or in the hush hush or asked your friends and then you were doing it more at home. It became more of a, like a status thing. Maybe it re became a status thing from the rituals of ancient eras. So with that, with development of cool things like wax heaters or disposable strips, plus adding gloves and sanitation protocols, it becomes scalable, trainable and profitable within salons and spas. It's a really important era because then this is where we establish it more as a core aesthetic Service, would you say?

Maggie Stasik (8:53)

Yeah, I would. And the focus was largely, I think, on efficiency and hair removal, not necessarily skin health, for sure.

Ella Crestman (9:01)

And I think also what we had was an evolution from those sugar pastes to what we know now as soft wax, which they called it honey wax when I was in school. Yeah. Do you remember it just being like honey wax, soft wax. And then there was the introduction of, like, a cream, soft wax, but it was still that, right?

Maggie Stasik (9:17)

Yep.

Ella Crestman (9:17)

Then we have the introduction of hard wax in the late 20th century, this, the 1900s. For people who don't want to do the math, let's just say 40 years ago and on, we had hard wax. And this started gaining popularity for face underarms, bikini services. Anywhere where you wanted a sharp line, because it was marketed as gentler, because it didn't adhere to the skin, rather it adhered to the hair. So you were able to be more specialized. You can do more gentle areas like Brazilians and such like that. So why do you think that mattered?

Maggie Stasik (9:53)

Well, hard wax is a game changer for Brazilian waxing because you can get into those nooks and crannies. It's not adhering to sensitive skin areas. And that's important for Brazilian waxing, even chest waxing. You know, if you were to go over a nipple area or even things like ears and nose, hard wax makes.

Ella Crestman (10:15)

It possible because then you're not sticking, sticking, sticking like the other solutions. Yeah, yeah. Well, they have now hybrid, what I would assume would be a mix between a hard and a soft wax, but it's not. It's like a. It's its own thing. So it's a different kind of polymer now and then they have several different formulas I had when I first started out. Remember one eyebrow. Just the left. Just the left. And I watched a Brazilian. So, as I've shared before, my first bikini wax experience was horrible. So I made a point to learn it, to get really good at it, because I hated it. So I wanted to get it done and check. I became really great at waxing. Very efficient, safe, not. I mean, I lifted skin and then I learned. Right. But I had two formulas in my room, a hard and a soft, and that was maintained. Like, still today, when I do bring my wax warmer out, which is not that often, two formulas. And then I would see people having, like, six different formulas. And I never understood it. But I talked to Ms. Bri Musquitt, who was our ASCP SD of the year in 2025, who, by the way, is just an amazing human, and she was sharing all the different wax styles and stuff. So I asked her a couple questions. I said, what's different? What are these changes that you've seen in your career? Because she specializes in it. And what are your thoughts? The first question I ask is what shifted for her? Because like you said, there was a shift to not just pulling the hair out and sending them on their way. It was skin also. So my question was, when you shifted from hair removal to skin first, what was that like? I'm going to tell you exactly what she told me verbatim, so I don't lose anything. She said my shift happened fairly early in my career. While working at a large chain, she noticed that many women were struggling with skin concerns, especially in intimate areas, and those were making them insecure, the opposite of what waxing should provide. They were having dark spots, ingrown hairs or other things. So they weren't coming to her just to be hair free. They wanted to be smooth. They wanted that skin to look healthy. They wanted clear skin and confidence. And that's what changed her approach on waxing. Treating the skin first ultimately helped her clients achieve their real goal, not just hair removal, which I thought was super, super important. It's more than just taking it off. Hold that thought. We'll be right back.

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Ella Crestman (13:29)

Let's get back to the podcast. So let's talk about some core facts around that Modern waxing is no longer just hair removal, it is skin barrier management. Clients today are more reactive because of the retinoids in their lotion or exfoliating acids that they're using, or medication or lifestyle stressors. So technique and post care now influence outcomes as much as the wax itself.

Maggie Stasik (13:55)

I think it's important to note that skin, in my opinion, is still skin. I don't think that we as a human race are evolving and that how skin behaves is evolving. But chemistry and formulation has changed and People's views on what their experience should be when they go and see their waxer or their esthetician has changed. And so that wax technician needs to evolve their business to keep up with the demands of the client.

Ella Crestman (14:25)

Do you think that most professionals have adjusted their waxing protocols to match that change?

Maggie Stasik (14:30)

Probably some have and some haven't.

Ella Crestman (14:31)

I would think I would agree with you wholeheartedly.

Maggie Stasik (14:33)

Yeah. You know, because I'm sure there's those waxers that are same as us, that grew up with, here's your resin wax, and here's your hard wax, and those are your only options. And that's what they know. And so that's what they use. And they maybe are not also creating a treatment plan for the skin, either pre and post wax, or, you know, you also can expand on that, like Bri is talking about here. And what about the pigmentation and what about the ingrown hairs and so on and so forth? And there's opportunity for your business there if you grow on that.

Ella Crestman (15:10)

She was saying she customizes, like, a little bit of this wax, a little bit of that wax for each client. She can customize it, which is, like, you have to know your stuff to be able to do that.

Maggie Stasik (15:20)

Yeah.

Ella Crestman (15:21)

That almost is like your business is the waxing. And the way I would, like, customize serums, maybe like layering of serums. She's customizing what she's putting in the pot before they get there.

Maggie Stasik (15:32)

Yeah. And I think that that's her niche. That works for her.

Ella Crestman (15:36)

Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (15:37)

I would not recommend that to every esthetician. And also, let's clarify that Bri has her own wax line, so she knows she can do those things.

Ella Crestman (15:47)

Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (15:48)

You can't take every wax on the market and say, I'm going to cocktail this for you and mix these waxes and, you know, hope for the best.

Ella Crestman (15:56)

That's what I would do to get there, though. I wonder if that's how it happened.

Maggie Stasik (16:00)

We're going to be doing a podcast later about Ella's whoopsie doozy.

Ella Crestman (16:04)

I tried it.

Maggie Stasik (16:05)

Yeah.

Ella Crestman (16:06)

What happens when you mix two waxes, one resin and one hard? Oh, I have a story on that one, too. But it's important because even though hair removal has existed for thousands of years across many, many cultures, what we are doing now, modern professional, are standardized for efficiency, not just skin or not skin biology. So we have to consider it now where it wasn't really taught when we were in school. And then the philosophical shift from cosmetic removal to, like, a biological preservation. Hair removal isn't new waxing has roots in cultural rituals and practical hygiene long before salons existed. So, Maggie, what's changed isn't the goal, but the understanding of the skin. What would you say?

Maggie Stasik (16:50)

Yeah, I think you nailed it on the head, which is understanding the skin. Just to repeat what you said and going back to what I said before, that there are those wax technicians or those estheticians out there that have opportunity to expand their business by also treating the skin and including the skin in their waxing experience.

Ella Crestman (17:11)

So we talked a little bit about modern wax formulations and what's actually different wax categories. Now we have soft wax, hard wax, sugar and hybrids. Modern resins and polymers improve flexibility and hair adhesion. Remember when, like back in the end, back in the day, we had really like two wax companies, one that was good and one that was cheap. Remember? And I'm not going to name names, but like, the cheap one, specifically in hard wax would like be brittle and break off in little baby pieces. And now they're a lot more flexible. They're able to melt or warm at lower temperatures and have this elastic, like, quality. So it helps with discomfort, but it doesn't replace, like, proper technique. Also marketing terms like clean or hypoallergenic, those don't guarantee safety. But wax selection should be based on skin condition, hair type and treatment area. I remember when one wax line came out and they said, and this is compostable. And you probably know who I'm talking about. Don't Google it, you guys, because it's not important. And so they were putting hard wax in the compost pile.

Maggie Stasik (18:25)

To that I say, this is a wax company trying to keep up with trends in consumer demands. And there was a point in time when Ella and I were young estheticians, we were spring chickens. And there was this hot debate that waxing and all the supplies you're using are very wasteful. All the sticks you go through, if it's a hard wax, those large wax strips being tossed and you went through a lot of consumables. And so then wax companies started to come out and say it's compostable or this is recycled polymer, blah, blah, blah, you know.

Ella Crestman (19:03)

Yeah, that's a green clay craze. Yep. Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (19:06)

And I'm surprised that that hasn't come back around with the whole clean beauty thing. Clean, green and whatever. We went through that phase recently, just a few years ago.

Ella Crestman (19:15)

It's definitely something. I had to walk, like, wrap my brain around it. But I'm glad that it's evolved. I'm glad that it's not just gotten gentler, but it's gotten more technically sophisticated. Speaking of, let's talk about technique and as really a clinical skill, formulation versus technique. So I asked Ms. Bri and she said for her technique will always come first. She's obviously a highly skilled waxer and she can even probably make a mediocre wax perform well. Like I was telling, you know, like we're talking about the cheap one. But even with the best wax, she said that it's so important because it can't compensate for poor technique. Mastery really comes from understanding technique deeply and knowing how to pivot in real time based on each client's skin, hair and circumstance quote. When strong technique is paired with the right formula, that combination creates the best possible experience and outcome for both the waxer and the client. And I thought that was like, nailed it moment because I remember thinking, why is this client skin reacting this way? I've done this a hundred times. What's going on now? Have you ever experienced that?

Maggie Stasik (20:25)

Oh, yeah, I, I mean a million times. I can think back to I know what I'm doing, I know my product. Why is it not working?

Ella Crestman (20:33)

Do you think that like, this is how I thought in that moment too was like, what's wrong with the client? Yeah, what's wrong with the client that this isn't working? Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (20:41)

And easy to go there. Like, well, their hair just isn't long enough or you know, something like that.

Ella Crestman (20:46)

Or their skin's too dry or what medicine did. I remember lifting somebody's eyebrows. I said, are you on a ret A Retin A? No, I'm not. Okay, cool. And her eyebrow lifted. And I'm like, you're not using any new products. She's like, well, I'm using Olay Regenera. And I'm like, I think that has, you know, a little retinol in it. So we had to go, you know, make sure. I mean, this was probably 15 years ago, but little things like that that you learn, that's obvious one. But also some things just don't work with some people. Or you do have to adjust the temperature. And I would make notes. But I'm just using one type of wax, you know, so very interesting. And then the other thing that's really changed quite a bit. I remember, remember tend skin.

Maggie Stasik (21:28)

Oh yeah. I used that like crazy.

Ella Crestman (21:31)

Yeah. And I think that's what we had for postcare. So 10 skin was this like alcohol based, can we say alcohol based toner that you would use post wax for the like, like to ward off ingrown hairs or something like that. It burned like a mother. Exactly. It hurt. It wasn't pleasant, but you just bite down and just keep going for the next four or five days afterwards. This is what you're supposed to do. Then I remember another wax company had like a pre spray that you just spray on especially important for some areas. And then a post oil, that was it. And then someone else came out with a lotion. But now we have like sophisticated like skin care for post wax which is different. So the undervalued step of postcare. I asked Bri again and she said one of like I was like what's one of the most common mistakes with modern wax approaches? And she said one of the biggest mistakes that she sees is, is not staying current with modern contraindications. Also because contraindications that, that you learn in school may have been explained. But with new medication supplements, skin care and viral trends constantly emerging, it's super important for professionals to stay informed. And the reason that she mentioned this is because these factors can dramatically affect the skin and determine whether a client is a good candidate for waxing. Or maybe they need to be encouraged for another hair removal method. And awareness and education are essential for both safety and results. A safety first approach, which was really cool. Here's some core facts to consider. Post care determines inflammations, ingrowns and then barrier recovery and pre care or what we used to use over drying can increase irritation and follicular disruption. Barrier first care supports healing and reduces complications. Exfoliation and timing matters. If you're waxing too early, it can increase risks or exfoliating too soon after. And that the follicle is a micro environment influenced by friction, sweat and occlusion. So what you put on is important. What has been some things that you have seen change in the post care area?

Maggie Stasik (23:44)

I think everything that you just mentioned which is treating the skin, skin as treating the skin in its entirety with serums and lotions and even cleansing. And we have post oils whereas you know, when we grew up in the industry we Simply just had 10 skin.

Ella Crestman (24:02)

I think what's important too, which should be a huge consideration, which I never did, was having a consultation before enduring like the same consultation approach that we are super excited about for facials or peels or dermaplaning and you should have that same intent for waxing. And that's eyebrows. Remember I just told my whoopsie story. That's for you know, legs, that's for arms, that's for intimate areas, because it's really, really important, especially for establishing a relationship. Now, if I flip that over and I was the client, I'd be like, I just want my legs waxed. Why do I need to go through this? But I think having an experience where I had a consultation would be a lot. It would help to encourage my trust in the practitioner. Yeah.

Maggie Stasik (24:47)

And I think the expectation from clients has changed. So today I don't think they would be deterred by that. But you're right, there was never a consultation. The consultation involved how much hair are we taking off today?

Ella Crestman (25:00)

Yeah. What shape do you want?

Maggie Stasik (25:02)

Yeah, exactly.

Ella Crestman (25:04)

Um, and I know, too, that we also said, like, signing a release or like, an informed consent is important. FYI, if you're an ASCP member, you can go up in the forms and download and make it your own. But ASCP has a really big jumpstart on that. Just saying. So, anyways, what else do you think about waxing?

Maggie Stasik (25:23)

I love it.

Ella Crestman (25:24)

Would you wax that?

Maggie Stasik (25:25)

I would wax it.

Ella Crestman (25:26)

Now, listeners, we really want to hear from you. How do you think wax has changed? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook, or send us an email@getconnectedscpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASDPSDtalk. For more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself. Want to learn more about ascp? Check out the show notes. Stay tuned for the next episode of ascp. Esty Talk.