ASCP Esty Talk – Ep 373: Vitamin A Debate

Date: February 4, 2026
Hosts: Maggie Stasik (ASCP Program Director) & Ella Cressman (Licensed Esthetician, Organic Skincare Formulator)
Podcast: ASCP Esty Talk

Episode Overview

This episode dives deep into the ongoing debates, myths, and facts surrounding vitamin A in skincare. Maggie and Ella break down the various forms of vitamin A, look at how strength, formulation, and delivery systems impact efficacy, and discuss industry misconceptions, best practices for use, and ways estheticians can best educate themselves and their clients.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Forms of Vitamin A: Complexity & Evolution

• Retinol Esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate)

  • Marketed as "gentle" vitamin A but require multiple conversions to become active.
  • Maggie: "They're gentler because they're weaker. What's your feeling about retinol esters?" [03:57]
  • Ella: "Weaker doesn't mean ineffective. They're softer...it's a different communication with the skin." [04:17]

• Classic Retinol

  • The "OG" form with significant evidence backing its efficacy.
  • Often not tolerated well due to irritation and complex incorporation schedules.
  • Ella: "Very effective. But that could be too much for me even...not always easy to incorporate into your daily rhythm." [04:52]
  • Maggie: "People would often stop using it because they couldn't get past that hump with the irritation." [05:45]

• Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

  • Converts to retinoic acid more efficiently; less gets lost "in translation."
  • Often found in innovative encapsulated forms for increased efficacy and reduced irritation.
  • Ella: "Imagine you're translating from Spanish to French to English to Portuguese...your messaging might not be as effective." [06:15]

• Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) / Granactive Retinoid

  • Brands claimed it doesn't require conversion, works like tretinoin but without irritation.
  • Hype faded; hosts express skepticism over the claims.
  • Ella: "I don't really care. I don't see...it doesn't make me get excited, I sleep right through that one." [07:44]

• Encapsulated Retinols

  • Delivery science helps shield actives, improve penetration, and reduce irritation.
  • Ella: Encapsulation gives actives a "secret pass" past the skin barrier; "It just gets into the club and then it starts speaking with it...nourishing the skin along the way." [15:14]

• Plant-Based Alternatives (e.g., Bakuchiol)

  • Trending as "retinol alternatives" but don't actually convert to retinoic acid.
  • Useful for sensitive clients or those who fear irritation.
  • Ella: "They're fantastic because they're woven into a formula that has other beneficial ingredients...like a delicious salad." [16:35]

The Strength vs. Tolerance Debate

• Classic belief: "Strongest form = best results" vs. "Low and slow for skin health."
• Ella: “I really love the analogy of skincare and working out...Going hard in a workout, you’re so sore, but that doesn’t mean you’re having different results than if you did yoga. My favorite one is the one they’re gonna use.” [08:31]
• Maggie: “I have always been low and slow...going hard is not how I approach the skin. And I think it’s too much wounding too often.” [09:44]
• Discussion on client pushback and the importance of meeting them where they are.

Compliance, Communication, & Formulation

• If clients can't stick with a strong vitamin A product, it's pointless.
• The role of formulation and delivery method (e.g., encapsulation, airless pumps) in effectiveness and tolerability.
• Label confusion: 1% retinol vs. 0.1% prescription—potency doesn’t always match the percentage due to conversion steps and formulation stability.
  • Ella: "People assume a 1% retinol equals 1% retinol...but there’s so many other factors like stability, but also conversions too." [14:07]

Usage Myths: Modern Practice vs. Old Rules

• The old rules: don't use in summer, only at night, not around the eyes, avoid mixing with acids, etc.
  • Maggie: "We don’t follow those rules anymore. You can find vitamin A specifically for the eyes...The industry has shifted." [16:59]
  • Ella: Highlights advances in formulation; some safety rules are now outdated—look at each product and client individually. [17:59]

Notable Quotes and Memorable Moments

• Ella (on retinol forms): "I think of that one as retinol, like, wreck it Ralph. You know, he comes in and he just makes a huge mess, gets the job done, but it's what happens in the aftermath." [03:11]
• Ella (on client compliance): "It doesn’t matter how strong it is if clients stop using it, right?" [14:02]
• Maggie (on retinol alternatives): "...Bakuchiol or another plant-based alternative to get their skin used to a keratolytic and then slowly bump them up to a true retinol." [16:59]
• Ella (on formulations): "It was encapsulated in a really cool way that had calcium and other minerals...It was nourishing the skin along the way and helping with communication and hydration which was really cool." [15:14]
• Maggie (on evolving industry knowledge): "Even though I’m saying all this...I can’t let go of my training from 20+ years ago. So my vitamin C is in the morning, my vitamin A is at night." [18:58]

Key Timestamps

• 01:29 – Podcast proper starts; hosts introduce themselves.
• 02:15 – Overview of common vitamin A types and the evolution of retinoids.
• 03:57 – Strengths and weaknesses of retinyl esters.
• 04:52 – Challenges and protocols around classic retinol, irritation, and compliance.
• 06:15 – Retinaldehyde and importance of conversion efficiency.
• 07:24 – Granactive retinoid (HPR): Sizzle or fizzle?
• 08:14 – “Strength equals results” debate.
• 09:36 – Esthetician philosophies: Low & slow vs. going hard.
• 13:21 – Importance of formulation: stability, encapsulation, delivery systems.
• 14:07 – Label confusion & conversion math explained.
• 15:14 – Encapsulated mineral-based retinol delivery.
• 16:00 – Plant-based and alternative retinols.
• 16:59 – Usage myths: modern protocol vs. tradition.
• 18:58 – Old habits in skincare routines vs. new science.
• 19:50 – Episode takeaway and call for listener feedback.

Takeaways

• There is no "best" vitamin A; the best choice depends on the client, their preferences, skin health, tolerance, and what they'll consistently use.
• Product efficacy depends on more than just the active ingredient: stability, delivery method, and overall formulation matter greatly.
• Old hard-and-fast "rules" for vitamin A use are increasingly outdated thanks to advances in ingredients and delivery science.
• Effective estheticians balance evidence, innovation, and client education tailored to the individual.

Call to Action

The hosts encourage listeners to share their own vitamin A stories and questions via social media or email and to continue advancing both their foundational and evolving skincare knowledge.

For more episode details, connecting with the hosts, or learning about ASCP, check the show notes.